Biljol

So  we will be taking possession of our new home in 22 days. It has an attached RV garage. Due to having some work done on the new home (flooring ) we will not be able to "move in" for a couple of weeks. Anyone have any experience with running the roof AC in a garage? My main concern is heating up the garage causing the AC to over work. The only non invasive solution I have so far is to leave the door open and use a large portable evap cooler to  move the air.

I am in phoenix so the added humidity not be a factor.   

for anyone replacing your ac unit please use a material lift you can rent them for very little and its the safest way to get items to the roof.

I was am having issues with my roof ac keeping the coach cool. My temporary answer is a portable mini split, My roof units put out cold air but I believe it is a issue with air movement just does not replace the air in the coach fast enough. 

i have a feeling the coils are not clogged all the way but enough to slow the air flow. To hot in AZ to open up the units and look right now. 
I would check the coils it could also be a issue with your ducs and that’s why it worked with the quick cool open,

Jolly,

on your new unit you can  probably go the the manufacturer website of each item and download the pdf owners manual. That’s better than a scan.

Steve I would scan them. Then you send them to people via pm or email.

My chassis battery’s are Duracell ultra platinum agm with a 4 year free replacement. 
 

also will always have my toad to charge the chassis battery’s if need but thanks for in input, 

this project is set for next aug. So been trying to get all the ducks together.

Your on par with the terminals I think you answered my questions. The biggest one was the ign wire I was not sure where to get it from did not know the boost solenoid had and ign wire to it, I don’t plan on using the boost feature so can I leave that not connected?

Or maybe you can help on this I have a ism 500 my starting battery’s are 2 1000cca would the boost do anything for me? Someone on another forum said the boost is not enough current and time so would not really help.

I am switching to lithium battery’s and am redoing the high voltage panel.

So what I have so far i am good with remove the blue item, remove the green item, remove the boot Solenoid big one in the center.

I am not concerned with the boost option.

I just don't know what to palace on the other three terminals. From the current wires.

How about the auto/manual switch?

do you hear the motor run at all? If not did you verify 12v at the motor in the fan?

Gary,

You mentioned that the units would get to you round the 23rd did you get them, how did the install go and do they work better. My exe with 2 units are not keeping up also one 15k one 13K at a loss for wat to do.

I have found 2 ground bus bars all connections look and feel tight. One in the dash area by the trip computer and one outside on the firewall.  Also my BlueFire of course dose not show the change in temp with the dimmer.

Now all I can guess is it’s a daisy chain issue.

Every coach is different it on mine the tile went about 2 inches under the cabinets with a bit of work was able to remove it all. The tile did go all the way under my shower.

So I noticed when climbing a hill on a hot night by changing the brightness of my dash lights the engine temp gauge would move by up or down by 10 degrees. Is this a indication of bad ground or bad power. I also have a jumpy tack and un reliable fuel gauge. 
 

when looking under the dash it seems all the grounds look good.