K9 Exec

That model (FFHT1425VV) draws approx. 3 amps and if the compressor runs 100% of the time, you would be at 30 amps dc x 24 hrs = 720. But that's not real world, your coach will be air conditioned, so that acts on your behalf to lower the cycle times. If that is anything like the Samsung as far as insulation goes, figure 50% duty cycle, or 360 amps. 600 AH of Lithium would be more than sufficient. I am pretty sure you will be pleasantly surprised with this upgrade, it will make a huge difference for you.

It is not the worst mod in the world to do. I have to go through my old phone and hard drive to retrieve some pics, but would gladly send you the step by step instructions (I took pics for everything from the removal to the replacement, the base frame, etc) with the channel that was used, some bolts, sweat equity, and some trim. The Norcold 1200 was replaced with a samsung 18 or 20 Cu Ft. if memory recalls. Bracing is easy enough, unless you want to go with a full size 24-25 Cu Ft fridge, you won't have any issues. Furnace and ducting can stay. Please let us know the temps when you do get back out there, I will gladly reply as soon as you post. 

Hello 1nolaguy, I can say the last few I have repaired have had the mastic just totally separate due to age or not making contact, whatsoever which would not allow the unit to cool. I would say if you are in repair mode and have an infrared thermometer or FLIR camera, check the left and right freezer temp as well as fridge, and let us know what you are getting for temps. That will tell me a lot, at that point I can guide you in a direction. 

Door seals: I can also say without seeing it, if you can get a piece of paper and slide it around the door without tearing it- they are bad. The slightest seal not making contact with the fridge body will allow most of your cold out, which at that point you are playing catchup, and if you weren't cold to begin with- its a losing battle and you are chasing your tail my friend. The "big fridge" lobby doesn't sell the seals cheap and we usually have to end up getting new doors, just to get the seals, and that is never worth it in my book. 

My $.02 worth: ditch the never cold! I had good luck with my 1200 in my last coach, good seals, etc- but smart money is on a replacement.

Hope to hear back sir, best of luck!

Hi, I am so sorry for your loss. My little buddy is going through chemo right now. We found out he has cancer a few weeks ago, and decided to try and treat it. He is such a smart canine, I am going to be lost when he does finally pass. 
 

I want to say something to all who read this: I have met a few of you in person (ricadoo, Chris Throgmartin as well as had some long conversations with others via phone and video call that needed some assistance) and I look forward to the day I can meet you all at an event. I have been a member for a few years now and not a day goes by I don’t get notifications that there is a new post, so, I read and enjoy the posts. I get so much joy from this group. Most of us play well together, and that makes it fun. 🙂 

I am taking care of an elderly loved one that isn’t getting any younger, so please enjoy the ones around you as well as whom you run across that day- they might not be blood relatives, but you may have made their day. 
 

May our words be kind to others~for we may have to eat them some day. 

Hi Bonnie, can you tell if it coming from around any of the slide windows or if it’s a total mystery, here are some tips:

1. You should have a 4-6” strip of eternabond tape sealing the tops and sides of the slide (box portion), I would closely examine that. Unless it is torn or there is a hole in it, most likely it isn’t the tape. You have to use a heat gun to remove it, since it is so sticky and can be quite the labor intensive job. 🙂
2. Look at any sealant (looks like caulk) that is cracked, dried out, or missing. That is a huge indicator. The tiniest crack can allow a drip of water to stream in and cause unknown thousands of dollars of damage. 
3. Look for any screws that have backed out out and are rusting- if you find a rust spot on the head of the screw- that’s one of your issues. (Keep looking because there will be more!!!) 

4. Any rivets that are crooked and not flush, same thing as #3, water will find it’s way in. 
 

Best of luck,

Nic 

Yes sir, you won’t need a wrench. Just give it 8-10 turns counter clockwise, that will remove the brass plug. All the plug does is prevent air from escaping.

I just saw this, sorry for the late reply. 
 

 Nick 

Thanks Ivan, you beat me to it! Hello Tom and Ivan, Happy New Year to all! 

Hi Lee,

The best and most accurate way to test that port, is with a gauge that accepts up to 150 psi. I do not have one laying around any longer, but you could source it online for sure. You will have to adapt it most likely, from 1/4 to 3/8 or whatever the gauge you get terminates to. 
 

Once you do have it connected, air your tanks up, release your airbrake then have your helper hit your service brake pedal while you are looking at it, and you should see how many PSI you are getting at that location.  
 

Another option is to remove the plug, have a helper hit the brake with you back there, and the air should flow. 
 

Best of luck,

Nick

Hello Flyinhy, I have seen a few ways folks have accomplished installing either led light strips or adding additional lights along the coach body. The most common way is the utilize the antiquated factory porch light for the 12Vdc source- that is, if you can get it apart and reassembled without breaking any of the brittle pieces.
😁  If you can, and that is an acceptable option, now you have a really nice high output  LED light strip on a factory switch.

What I typically suggest to my customers is using LED strips from one of our vendors or amazon. I have found most of them want all the bells and whistles of multi colors, etc. that the A/C ones have. So, I use the 110v strips with the transformer most of the time, find an outlet in the upper cabinet on the starboard (passenger) side, I usually go as high as possibly to get the lights almost to the same height as the awning, drill a tiny pilot hole (after verifying no ac/dc lines are within the vicinity) from the inside out, then use the appropriately sized drill bit just slightly bigger than the wires to fish out. Once the hole is drilled, we dry fit the light strip, then we strip off the wax with a cleaner, allow it to dry then mount the LED’s. Once installed, I seal up the end cap (which also covers up the hole the dc wires come through) with sealant to protect from water intrusion, and watch the coach owner smile. All of them we’ve done have a remote and have not had a single complaint about brightness, you can control all of the functions from the remote whether you are inside or out. It is a slick innovative way of brightening up the coach. Also, the ones I recommend all have covers that protect the LED’s, I would not use the ‘non protected’ ones for  a few reasons, one being they rust and look terrible. 
 

Just my $.02 worth, but I have done more installs this way than I can count. No issues with the higher end strips, thus far with the durability, just make sure to get a decent brand, or the really cheap “non American” brands will let you down. Don’t ask how I have found out the hard way. 😁

Best of luck sir, and we all would like to see the final product, with tips/tricks you encountered installing them. 
 

Nic

Not sure if we have the same coach setup- but the fuel/water separator should be on the passenger side of the motor toward the front. The main fuel filter for me was in the radiator bay. 
 

Best of luck!

Nick 

Hi Bob, that started last week in Northwest Arkansas of all places. I have a Navy buddy that runs a trucking company, his drivers were reporting “no diesel available”  in the am. So, now their drivers fuel up every night and so far, so good. 
 

They were fueling up at a Loves, Pilot, and Petro for what it is worth. I’m sure the smaller gas stations had fuel. 
 

Nick

Hi Mike, I had the same issue after getting my coach home. It was all of the neg batt cables in conjunction with a nice patina on the pos house cables. Once I wire wheeled all of the batt connectors, I had my 12.8vdc back. 
 

Oh, one more place to check- the master switch had an intermittent connection due to being loose, I hit that with my wire wheel too, never hurts to check the most unlikely places. Best of luck and let us know what it was. Inquiring minds want to know! 🙂 

Thanks,

Nick

Hi Joe,

The r/r process is pretty easy. It is 1/4" hose, you have to completely drain the air out, (obviously right?!? Who in their right mind would ever try to disconnect an air hose with 110 psi?  oh wait... 🙂 Back to the question,) you can either do a pump down to rapidly drop the air pressure out of the primary and secondary tanks or use the air bag drop. The connector is a quick connector, take a slim flat head screwdriver and insert in the fitting, it will move an 1/8" which will release the line.

Best of luck,

Nick

Hi Ronald, 

I would be skeptical of replacing the fuse then “calling it good.” There may be more issues than just a missing fuse and if it were me- I would not just replace the fuse, I would start troubleshooting. My suspicion is this:

1.  The previous owner had issues with it blowing, and never had the system serviced/repaired after the fuse blew, and most likely why it is missing. 

OR

2. One of the panels may have shorted or had a lightning strike within close proximity and blew more than the basement fuse.  
 

Have you been on the roof to check for other blown fuses and asses the MC4 connectors, neg/pos cables and combiner box? There is a lot more to do prior to just replacing a fuse. 🙂 

If you have any questions or need assistance, please DM me, I would be happy to help. 
 

Thanks,

Nick 

Hello Richard and Merry Christmas to you! you are so right, I truly believe that everything happens for a reason. It’s sad to see the coach go because I had so many visions and thoughts and memories to make with it. I really can’t wait to see what the future holds as far as purchasing another one but that’s gonna be a long time down the road unfortunately. Thank you so much for the kind words and the prayers. Like I said before, you guys are a Family I have made out of friends And this just proves it. Look at the love and support that y’all have shown for someone who has just been part of this community for a little over a year and a half. That’s pretty awesome in my book. Merry Christmas to all and thank you so much!

Nick

Hi Chris and Bill,

Thank you so much for the kind words:) I am not leaving, just at a fork in the road... The first thing I do every morning, is read my favorite RV site, MONACOERS.ORG. There are certain things which may be bought and sold, but the constant I look forward to is this site. I have met some of the kindest folks on here.

Shout out to Rickadoo, If that guy would open up, He would be a hoot!!! (Kidding Rick, it was a pleasure to make your acquaintance.)

As far as the coach is concerned, it is tentatively sold.

Merry Christmas all!!!

Nick

PS: In my profile, my signature line is correct for spelling 'Endeavor,' but shows misspelled publicly. Help?!

Marc, that’s really appreciated. 
 

Merry Christmas!

Nick

Thank you guys, I appreciate it. I hope it goes quick, but on the other hand- I hope it doesn’t because I hate to see it go. 
 

Merry Christmas!

Nick

Hi all, I want to first say Merry Christmas to all. I hope everyone has a chance to gather with friends and family in a few days, you never know what may happen next week. I had a family member go to the ER with stroke like symptoms a few months ago which led to purchasing a single story, 100% handicapped accessible house in central Florida for recovery. I am in a pickle with storage and having only used my coach twice in 1.5 years, I have made the decision to sell her. She has been a blast to look at, detail, admire and dream of vacations I have yearned for most of my life, but the reality is that family comes first!

I listed the coach at RV Trader. I am posting it here- if anyone knows of an interested party, please have them email me or call at 480.442.9020. The coach is located in Lake Wales, Fl and is available to be seen anytime. I am forever Grateful for my extended family at monacoers.org, I have made a family out of friends~ and for this, I am thankful!!!

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2002-Holiday+Rambler-ENDEAVOR+40PBD-5019170073/?cmp=email_rv_dealerlead_privateparty

Just a thought.... I had the chance to meet Chris Throgmartin at the show in Macon, Ga last March. He is one of the nicest guys I have met, down to earth as you can get. He has integrity, morality, and most of all-kindness for all. I drove 3+ hours just to meet he and Jason, his mgr, he made time to speak with myself and guest without interruption. Well worth the time to meet someone of this caliber. He offers top notch products, and manufactures the best awnings that are made in the USA. They aren't the cheapest, but they are the best from what I have found. I don't make a habit to promote other folks businesses, but if you need something for your coach- Give him a call rather than a placing an order online for cheap chinese products. Okay, I'm done ranting:)

Thank you all for the help along the way, this isn't goodbye- this is "I need to sell my baby to make room for the next baby down the line." I look forward to the seeing the topics come across my email daily. You guys brighten my life and If I am lucky enough to help another, I try to pass the knowledge along.

Thank you all and see you at next show!

Nick

2002 HR Endeavor

62k miles

Super clean

NEVER SMOKED IN

$35,000

Hi there, the item you identified is an over pressure relief valve. That style of dryer has issues and when it gets obstructed- either the purge valve won't quit leaking, or it locks up causing the blow off valve to discharge the excess pressure. Replacing the air dryer assembly will take care of the issue and many others (if it recently has not been done) in the future!

It can be found at any Freightliner and is most always in stock.

Best of luck,

Nick

1.I am looking to replace my tires with a new set of Michelins and would like some info on the "best" place to purchase and have installed at the best price. The coach is in Jax, Fl.

2. I would like to replace the couch with a high end leather sleeper sofa with under storage. Price is not an issue, quality is!

3. All the interior lighting will be replaced with led lights/fixtures, suggestions where to purchase? I will do the install myself.

4. I would like to replace the tile/hardwood flooring in the coach, but the repair companies quote me yet never show up. I am mechanically and electrically inclined, but have never done flooring. Can anyone point me to some awesome videos or how-to, step by step DIY tile removal and reinstallation? I don't have the time and would love to pay somebody, but they won't take my money... If anyone knows of capable people/company that are competent in RV floor replacement, that won't take 4-10 days for the job- DM me please!

Thanks,

NIc

I could also use new tail lighting, I am having a difficult time finding exact replacements. Has anyone replaced the tail/turn assemblies on an '02 HR Endeavor?

Thanks,

Nic

Van, 

That is awesome to hear! I am fortunate enough to have been trained by some of the brightest and finest in the industry, and do most of my own repairs. I have friends that work on Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Allison and so on with 18 bay shops and know what they are doing. I am concerned when I venture out of the area, and get stuck on the side of the road, that I am fortunate enough to run into an ethical shop with  a Jason. 🙂 

I had a tow west of Dallas five years ago,  or so, 60 miles to a Dallas shop was $720. A week In the shop, 2 injectors later was $6,000.00.

I was taken to the cleaners for sure, but that wasn’t the end of it. I made it 300 miles to Lubbock and had those injectors fail. A new 6 pack and I was rolling at an out of pocket cost of $6,100.00. Never had another issues. I always say if you have 1 injector fail, you will most likely going to replacing more in the near future, so while you are at the shop- have them al replaced and warranted. 
 

If you are able to, I would try to review his shop on Google and any applicable sites as well. An honest review is worth its weight in gold, he will be forever grateful. 

I wish you success on your repair and many thousands of miles trouble free!

Take care,

Nic

Tom, that is great advice. I would like to thank you and Dennis for the help with pretty much-everything that comes along on the forum. I am a newbie on here but have 20+ years of RV’ing under my belt along with the trials and tribulations of repairs. 🙂

There have been a few folks that have contacted me via DM, and have been wonderful. This is a testament to the quality of folks In this forum. 
 

Okay, back to the original reply: yes, the wabco is roughly $250ish, and was super easy to install if you have tools and are mechanically handy. Anyone can do this, carefully of course. 

I would also recommend replacing the air governor $40-$80 if you have an air leak and cannot find it. This is the culprit that no one checks since it is “supposed” to always work, right? I can’t tell you how many I have replaced and had the customer call a few days later stating “I still have air pressure,” and if it has never been replaced In a 15 year old coach, it is peace of mind. The check valve weakens over time and allows air to escape. Also, if your coach has an issue with building air- this is the first thing to check, 99% probability based on years of experience:). 

One last tip: drain your air tanks people! Condensation builds up and believe it or not, you will have water come out when drained- in massive amounts. This will also happen if your air dryer filter hasn’t been changed In a while. 
 

 The air tank has a pet cock (drain valve), mine was changed to one you can pull the cable from a few feet away without having to get under the coach,  just makes it super easy to drain.  
 

Thank you all for the help and have a blessed day,

Nic

I would greatly appreciate it, and in fact would pay the shipping and a “thank you”. Plz message me when you can. 
 

nic 

Chris,

Thank you for the insight of current industry trends. I purchased an ‘02 Holiday Rambler a few months ago, my dream coach, older than I would have liked, but absolutely pristine!!! 2 owner, climate controlled storage 8 months a year, 50k miles, little to no surface rust, never seen northern states in winter,  8” thick file of every service ever done, etc. I was extremely fortunate to find her!!!

This was a blessing for sure. I spent a week looking at garbage coaches on the upper end of ridiculous price spectrum... Roof leaks on every single one, some were trashed, and worth half of asking. $79k for a $15k coach... it was bad. Then I found this On the last day, when I was about to give up. 
 

The market had bottomed out at that time, so we were super fortunate to find such a clean coach at that price. One other benefit was being able to pay with cash. I asked the couple why it hadn’t sold, the response was “it’s too old of a coach and no one would finance it, no one has cash, or it’s too big“. I would have loved to find a 45’ Monaco or prevost, which I will, but I will be enjoy my new toy over the 4th of July holiday for the first time. 
 

Please keep posting updates if you would, having the knowledge from an industry insider is great. I am always “looking” for a deal and never satisfied with what I have.:) I am new on the forum and  have benefited greatly from the knowledge and expertise of all who contribute.

Thanks,

Nic