privcap1

He's getting an electrician to install a proper 50 amp RV outlet in his shop. Then him and the electrician are going to check what out what they can before he takes it to an RV tech for further evaluation. I advised him to look into an insurance claim if there is extensive damage.

Well I hope the energy management system helped to prevent damage in some way. Although with the way things have gone it's probably fried too.

The outlet was a long time existing outlet that he had in his farm shop. Most likely used for a clothes dryer or welder. He used a 30 amp dog bone adapter off the 50 amp surge protector.

Question, Could the coach's energy management system have protected anything? Could that system be damaged as well?

Thank you all, I bought that surge protector when we bought the coach 5 years ago. It was recommended to me by a local RV shop. I obviously got some bad advice there. I really pressed the importance to the buyer to read the manuals and before using the coach. I referred to the coach as being like a Boeing 737 and one needs to know what he's doing before operating it. I never considered that he'd plug it into a home power service as we never had the luxury of being able to park it at our home. I'll pass on all the great advice I've received from you all to the new owner. I'll pass on to you what comes out of this when he gets it all sorted out.

I'm red green color blind so perhaps I'm not seeing the proper light colors. I feel bad for the new owner. I hope the repair isn't too expensive. So far the washer/dryer is fried and possibly the inverter and transfer switch.

Attached are photos of the 220 or 240 outlet (I'm not sure which). He called it 220. As well the readings on the Surgeguard which show "open ground" and "no surge protection". Is the general consensus that plugging into that outlet is the cause of the issue and there is electrical damage to the coach?

I'll have to get more info from him. I wondered too how he plugged into 220 outlet in his shop with the 50 amp surge protector or the 30 amp adapter plug. The outlet in his shop is probably for a clothes dryer or a welder. I'm thinking he's not a happy guy right now.

The new owner just confirmed he was plugged into residential 220 when the washer/dryer smoked and he lost AC power to the coach. Not good! I guess that would explain everything. He says now there there is only partial power at the 120 and 240 panel when on inverter or generator. What should he do now? Have an electrician go through the whole thing and see what's fried. I'm assuming most 120 appliances can be shot hey? Including the inverter and transfer switch?

Chuck that's a good question. He was plugged into 30 amp supply in a large heated shop on his farm. I hope it's not a 220 outlet. I'll relay that to him. What all could he have damaged if on 220?

Ray, the washer/dryer that smoked and flipped the breaker was the splendide unit in the coach. According to him the 30 amp shore power he was using had "an open ground" light on the surge protector. I'm pretty sure that washer/dryer is 120 volt AC.

Hello all, After reading your posts I got to thinking that when he did his voltage checks at the breaker panels that maybe he was unknowingly running on inverter power. I've sent him a text to confirm it. So if he has inverted AC power but no power on shore or generator then would that indicate a bad transfer switch?

Hello everyone, I just sold our beloved Windsor to a nice couple. They took it home a few days ago. This is their first motorhome. I said I would help them out for awhile if they have questions or problems. I'm currently stumped on a problem that they have encountered. Problem: No AC power on shore nor on generator. The inverter panel says "Waiting for AC" when on shore or on generator. They said they have not had shore and generator on at the same time. Background: The new owner had unwittingly been using 30 amp shore power with an "open ground" (according to the surge protector). He turned on the washer/dryer which started to smoke and flipped it's breaker. Since then no AC power to the coach. Trouble shooting: There is power going in and coming out of all AC breakers including L-1 and L-2 panel breakers. The inverter "appears" to be working and the breaker is not flipped. New owner states all breakers are on. Could the transfer switch be faulty? Is the transfer switch up or down stream of the breaker panels? Any other possible causes?

Thank you Rick...that helps greatly.

Thanks Dr4film, I have a cube relay that I changed and still nothing. Thank you for the latching schematic. It appears the coach's complete water pump schematic is hard to find. Thanks DavidL, I installed my backup pump and still nothing.

Hello, Would anyone have a detailed wiring schematic for the water pump and switching system for a 2003 Monaco Windsor? One that includes all fuses. My water pump failed to come on yesterday. I have power to the hot wire at the latching relay but no power on the hot wire going to the pump. I bypassed the latching relay by removing the load and ground wires and connecting them with a 10 amp fuse but still no power on the hot wire going into the pump. The four fuses related to the water pump system are good. Thank you.

Rick, I'd sure be interested to know if there is a difference between that ACDelco 15150990 that I recently bought and the other one which is the link REV sent me. My ECM sure didn't like the ACDelco. I also had to bend the pedal bar up a bit to clear the floor. That was no big deal though.

Ray, One thing the mechanic said was that the pedal in/out feature really puts a strain on the sensor connection, especially when the pedal is all the way in towards the driver. Some of my connections were stretched and loose he said. I like to sit quite a ways back from the steering wheel so I've had the pedals almost all the way to their stop position.

Ray, I don't know for sure if it is compatible. Other than the pedal length it's exactly the same in every way as my original one. It was for 2002-2003 GM vehicles. Same vintage as our Windsor. It was the only one I could find with the 6 pin sensor connection. I took my old one to a Heavy Truck parts and service centre that specializes in cummins and freightliner. The parts people searched high and low but could find nothing that matched it. I finally found it by combing through Amazon. REV linked me to one but it was $600 U.S. plus exchange , shipping , duties and taxes. I'm betting it would have been compatible though. The mobile mechanic was shocked that my new one was only $140 CAN. He said those are usually $1000 to $2000 up here in Canada.

Well for now all is working good. The active code was #431 (Idle Activation Switch). I had not had that #431 code previously. The mobile mechanic took apart the female connector off the harness. He did some rehab on the little connectors. Re-installed everything but it still flashed code #431 as soon as I turned on the chassis batts. He said it needed to come into the shop for further diagnostics. As he was leaving I asked if I should try putting the old pedal back on and do a re-calibration procedure. He said you might as well try it just in case your new one is defective. I installed the old pedal assembly and the warning light went out. We traveled two hours to our next stop and all is good so far. So not too sure what the problem was exactly. Maybe the harness connector. Plus the new pedal assembly may be defective or just doesnt work with my ECM.

Ivan, Yep I think I need something like that so I can deal with issues like this.

Okay thanks Frank. I have a "check engine" light, a "stop engine" light and a red "warning" light. Only the red warning light is on. The only codes this engine has produced in the 4 years we've had the motorhome have been related to "throttle position sensor". In fact 14 times, this according to the mobile mechanic, According to my engine operation manual, a throttle position sensor issue shouldn't cause the "warning " light to come one. Only coolant, oil pressure, intake manifold temp, engine over-speed and fuel temperature are related to the warning light condition. I'm kicking myself for not writing down the code number when the mobile mechanic did the diagnostic.

Frank, My only fear is it will de-rate and we'll be stranded. That is if the warning light is reading a current code as opposed to an old one. Do you know if sometimes the warning light will stay lit until the code is cleared? In the past it's always cleared with a shut down and restart.

I'm just wondering if maybe installing the new sensor did fixed the issue but the red waning light will stay on until the code is cleared? Is that a possibility? I haven't taken it for a drive but have had it running and do have full throttle response.

Van, Unfortunately I don't have anything like that...I had a mobile mechanic read the code but I don't recall if he actually said the code number. I wish now I would have asked him and wrote it down. I have a call into him to see if he remembers the code but so far no call back. He was able to stop or start the problem by wiggling the connector at the sensor connection. I've tried that but I don't seem to get any kind of reaction or resolve. I've sprayed the connector with contact cleaner but no change. I've opened up the strand of wires between the pedal and the firewall. All wires look fine. I really don't know how it would be possible to check the wires all the way back to the ECM. Maybe I'll see if I can get it to a service centre. If it de-rates to idle, perhaps I can raise engine rpm's with the cruise control?