joefromperry

On 4/27/2024 at 9:21 AM, joefromperry said:

I need to pull the side radiator from my signature because of a leak. Having learned from a prior experience doing this, I'm going to build a couple 2 x 12 ramps to lift the back of the coach to facilitate radiator removal. My question is: do I need to make the ramps long enough support the tag wheels, too, or is it okay to just have the two sets of drive wheels on the ramps? I'm thinking since the tag is sometimes lifted by the chains, it would do no harm to not have them on the ramps. 

UPDATE: As it turns out, I didn't need to make ramps, as I ended up backing the coach to the end of my "built-up" area so the radiator was able to be lowered without them. However, some great suggestions and pictures, which I'll definitely file away for the future. Thanks to all who replied.

I need to pull the side radiator from my signature because of a leak. Having learned from a prior experience doing this, I'm going to build a couple 2 x 12 ramps to lift the back of the coach to facilitate radiator removal. My question is: do I need to make the ramps long enough support the tag wheels, too, or is it okay to just have the two sets of drive wheels on the ramps? I'm thinking since the tag is sometimes lifted by the chains, it would do no harm to not have them on the ramps. 

This is what the Omega II looks like. It has question-mark shaped arms that extend the topper to become a window awning. I "think" the Omega is just a topper, and doesn't have the awning part. I have one of each on my coach.

 

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Joe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment.  If your floor plan is different, it changes things. 

Thanks, Ivan. The slide I was having trouble with is the opposite side from the kitchen and couch. But, as I was just going to reply to Tom, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Go figure. I'll try again tomorrow to make sure I wasn't hallucinating.

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA.  They also damage and eventually kill motors.  When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP.  So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960.  Drop to 10 VDC.  OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets.  My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed.  Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150.  When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A.  Motor was toasted.  Fixed connection.  Switched from House to Chassis….  But, it was costly.  $1,700 For new pump and valve unit.  Labor took that up to $2,500.  Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book.

@throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..  

So, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Not sure why it suddenly. works;  all the connectors and fuses look fine. Chris Talin will be my next connection if problems reoccur. I'll see how it behaves tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Tom.

14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Joe,

Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging.

I would do the following.

Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine.  Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips.  On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids.  Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides.  IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK.  IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream.  If the fuse is good, you will get instant power.  IF IT is erratic...check the fuse.

NO JOY.  Then cycle the slides.  You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change.  Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system.

PAST THAT...  it may be mechanical.  The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well.  The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad?  LOW.  But, many have had issues.  There is ONE thing you can try.  IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY.  IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS...  Run the Passenger Slides.  Look at the MOTOR voltage.  NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides.  IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE.  

The WAY TO TEST THAT..  Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE.  SHORE ON.  THEN run the slides.  If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House.  ONE THING....  Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF).  Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor.  Clean the GROUND stud for that as well.  I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue...  Cleaned all grounds.  WORKED.

Many causes...  you have to narrow down and eliminate each one.  IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid.  IF that speeds it up...wiring.  IF NOT...mechanical...

Good Luck...

Thank you very much, Tom. You've given me some things to look at, and I plan to do that today. I am curious, though, if my slideouts have rollers, and if so, can they be seen by me somehow. FWIW, the bottom of all my slide outs is in very good shape, with no warping, gouges, etc. (I probably just jinxed myself here.) Thanks again. I'll post what I find.

 

MODERATOR's EDIT.

This issue is almost exactly the same or related to the current topic.  SO, it has been merged

END OF EDIT

The driver side hydraulic slide on my 2003 Signature either does not move or moves jerkily (is that a word?) when trying to extend. It retracts more smoothly, but slowly. The passenger side slide works as it should. The reservoir is full. When I press the switch I can hear the motor run, but no movement. Sometimes, when slide is pushed from inside while trying to extend, is goes reluctantly.. Tapping on the solenoids (all of them, as I'm not sure which is the extend for that slide as I'm working alone) doesn't seem to do anything. The locks move freely.

Looking for suggestions here. Is there a way to see the rollers for possible damage, if it even has them? I have a replacement solenoid that should arrive today; I had replaced the extend one on the generator slide last year. Thank you for suggestions.

On 4/21/2023 at 9:54 PM, joefromperry said:

2003 Signature. Suddenly, when I turn on the power to the Aladdin and push the joystick up, the red light on the joystick lights, but no Aladdin data shows on the Panasonic screen. However, the screen displays radio stations, etc. just fine. Bedroom monitor shows nothing either. Looking at the individual modules on the top of the bay, none are lit. I dug the control unit and video unit from in the dash, and both test for 12 volt power, and all plugs are seated. The only fuses I've found, both inline in the dash and in the front run bay, are all good. I do have one purple wire that is unplugged, or never was plugged in. Maybe snooze with a similar setup can take a picture to show me where the wire goes. Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: problem solved (sort of). Although I haven't found where the purple cable attaches, I did solve the problem of no data showing up on my display. Once I saw all the little boxes on the top of the bay were receiving power and sending data, I realized the problem had to be just with video. Turns out the purple RCA cable in the picture above was connected to the Panasonic control box using a connector to another RCA cable. I decided I needed only one cable, so eliminated the connector and other cable, and suddenly I had the Aladdin video back. Just to make sure, while the Aladdin data was showing on the screen, I went back to the original setup with two RCA cables and a connector, and the display was gone again. So now I'm good. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I will be looking to upgrade from the Panasonic monitor / radio, but until I do, at least I have the Aladdin info back. Here's the culprit: 

73481257232__B016AE92-BD7C-464C-ABDA-702244FE9E94.heic

Can you hear the motor turning when you try to retract?

 

On 4/4/2024 at 4:47 PM, Wayne Thomas said:

Thanks to everyone who responded . I’m a retired carpenter  I did read the manual 6 years ago (but forgot some things) I have a PKD I don’t think it matters my air chuck is not next to the lp tank but my manual said it is and my manual said it only puts out 95psi because of a restriction valve and here’s the kicker I have two female chucks next to the generator both with black plastic caps and they look like they’re the same greater all this  I’ll go out and buy a pancake compressor 

the manual also said the fitting up front is a male for  the tow truck lol thanks again for jarring my memory this Monaco web site is very helpful I like it as much as YouTub

I use a Ridgid 18 volt portable air tool, as it uses the same batteries as all my other Ridgid tools. It will fill my steer tires to 115 pounds, and is small enough to easily. store.

from 2004 manual: 

Entry and bay door locks can be operated using the touch keypad located

adjacent to the entry door. Three lock codes are pre-assigned and are unavailable

for future use as unlock codes.

• 555 - Locks entry door and bay doors if connected.

• 557 - Locks entry door and bay doors if connected.

• 559 - Locks entry door and bay doors if connected and arms keypad

(flashes momentarily once every 15 seconds).

NOTE: Due to preassigned codes, number(s) 5/6 cannot be used at the

beginning of a new unlock code.

228 • SECTION 5 --- EQUIPMENT SIGNATURE 2004

060232

fuse panel.tif

KEYLESS ENTRY

030883B

Unlock codes should be personalized upon receiving the motorhome. Unlock

codes have two categories: Master and Optional codes. Master code enables

motorhome entry and auxiliary control. Deletion, adding or changing of Optional

codes are performed at the Master code level.

INFORMATION: Consult the system owner's manual for

further information.

• To lock: Shut the door. Enter one of the three lock codes to lock the

entry door and bay doors, if connected.

• To unlock: Enter Factory Default Master code or a three to eight digit

personalized Unlock code, if programmed.

All motorhomes equipped with the keyless entry are shipped from the factory

with default settings. It is recommended the unlock code be personalized for

security purposes.

To Program a Personal Number:

1. Located in the curbside armrest is the Programming

Switch, identified by a small black button with 22-gauge

wires connected: Yellow is power - Black is ground.

2. Press the Programming Switch until four (4) rapid beeps

are audible.

3. To open the memory for accepting the personalized Master Code,

enter 1119 on the keypad at the entry door.

4. Enter the new 3 to 8 digit master unlock code within five seconds.

5. Wait five seconds for two (2) rapid beeps.

6. Test the new Unlock Code.

7. If the code was not accepted, repeat the procedure.

WARNING: Ensure possession of entry door keys prior to

testing new personal code.

NOTE: These instructions are for motorhomes equipped with

"keyless entry" only.

SIGNATURE 2004 EQUIPMENT --- SECTION 5 • 229

030907

Keyless Entry Code

Programming

Keyless Entry Key Fob:

The motorhome is equipped with a Key Fob to unlock and lock the entry door

and the bay doors.

• Upper left button on the Key Fob is used to lock the entry door.

• Upper right button is used to unlock the entry door.

• Bottom left button is used to unlock and lock the bay doors.

• Bottom right button is not assigned.

NOTE: The key fob operation distance is approximately within 50

feet of the motorhome. If the door locking mechanism is not

audible, the marker lights will flash when the doors are unlocked

or locked.

NOTE: During any service work, it is recommended all key fobs

be left with the motorhome for thorough testing and check procedure.

If the Key Fob does not respond, and it has a new battery, the Fob may need to

be authorized.

• Locate the keyless entry receiver box behind the instrument cluster.

• Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

• Locate the program button red in color.

• Situate both Key Fobs within reach.

• Hold down the program button for five (5) seconds.

• While holding down the program button, press the Lock buttons on

the Fobs, one at a time.

• Release the program button.

• Turn ignition switch OFF.

• Test remote Key Fob.

NOTE: If the motorhome is factory equipped with an optional

security system, the security system remote will lock or unlock the

entry door and bay doors when the system is armed or disarmed.

However, if the entry door is locked and armed with the security

Key Fob, it must be unlocked with the security Key Fob to disarm

the security system. Using the keypad to unlock will not disarm the

system.

The keyless entry system can be used to unlock selected bay doors.

To unlock the bay doors using the keyless entry system:

• Enter the programmed unlock code. The entry door will unlock.

• Within five seconds of the first sequence of numbers entered, press

the number 9.

 

and doorbell from same manual, but not dealing with replacing: 

The door bell button is located next to the

entry door on the outside of the motorhome.

The two-tone door bell chime is located in the

vanity cabinet just under the sink. A momentary

switch completes the 12 Volt DC circuit, activating

electromagnets to pull a plunger down against a

measured resonant metal plate and compress a

coil spring. When the electromagnet releases, the

spring forces the plunger up against another

resonant metal plate with a different tone.

SIGNATURE 2004 EQUIPMENT --- SECTION 5 • 227

Door Bell

chime vanity.tif

Face-plate. 031081 Face-plate removed. 031081b

031080

Exterior Door

Bell Button

Door bell chime: Located in Vanity Cabinet.

If the chime fails to work, check the 20 Amp fuse rated #4 in the domestic fuse

panel. If the fuse immediately blows again, there may be a short in that circuit.

Consulting a technician is recommended.

Items on the circuit include:

• Hall Lights

• Bath Ceiling Light

• Vanity Lights

• Door Bell

• Baseboard Heater (Optional)

If chimes seem sluggish, the plungers can be

cleaned with a nonflammable cleaning fluid and

wiped dry.

NOTE: Never oil chime plungers.

On 4/6/2024 at 11:54 AM, timaz996 said:

When my check valve failed I replaced it with a ball valve.

That's exactly what I did on my 2003 signature.

I'm trying to figure out some stuff with the Aladdin system (#100) on my 2003 Signature. The two boxes in the pictures have various connecting cables, but as you can see, I have one purple RCA phono plug that has been disconnected. I would appreciate if anyone familiar with the system could tell me where to plug it in? The smaller box doesn't have any empty spaces, so do both ends plug into the same box? Thanks.

Edit: I'm not 100% sure the other cables are connected where they. should be, either. System doesn't work. I'm going to troubleshoot, but need the cable(s) connected first.

That's exactly what I did when I replaced my radiator on my 2003 Signature with ISX 525 a few years ago. Make sure you change coolant filters to one without chemicals. I used a Napa 4113, but yours is probably different.

I got my replacement slide toppers and springs directly from Carefree by calling them and giving them the numbers from my build sheet. Perfect match to the originals, which were theirs in the first place.

Almost done changing all the puck lights from halogen to LED in my 2003 Signature. These are what I got from Amazon, 2700K, dimmable. Only adjustment I made was trimming just a smidge off the length of the bi-pins:  https://www.amazon.com/OLÉ-Lighting-Flicker-Non-dimmable-Energy/dp/B0BFCM51B6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2LYEB9MNR6QQ9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JYq8vnhGRpbe21XNgtjo5Jobk9-I3Z9oC3sA8Q9jAbQXHGuHKL5Tlbj9NWaJEL5h43GisBVWHudteTEswnjNMYsOlDs-4LsRLV0tu7YNfDL2zEBrZVMXQzB9S150CTE1JZMoyBx3ueHUK7A7pGrGbglSgI-GtPvUGdvMNn0wn_Nril0_YIAHqNpr-isw_yIq7JJZD3DaBRd8T4e5lJgHu9gvPxakOiOey5LXbInUiyTz0cX8izsm9du2HprJGbzG9F3-9VaxKTfKrm3fT5PTWJm_ljqH7zvzjqnlHCmoc3k.kP6xGA9ymWLlNrJCzpncycS6vCzDbAkgpy714CLZvvs&dib_tag=se&keywords=G4%2BLED%2BBulbs%2B2W%2BWarm%2BWhite%2BLED%2BBulb%2B2700K%2C%2B200LM%2BG4%2BLED%2BBulb%2B12V%2BAC%2FDC%2B180°%2BBeam%2BNo%2BFlicker%2BDimmable%2BEnergy%2BSaving%2BLamp%2BG4%2BBulb%2B(8%2BPacks)&qid=1711310183&sprefix=g4%2Bled%2Bbulbs%2B2w%2Bwarm%2Bwhite%2Bled%2Bbulb%2B2700k%2C%2B200lm%2Bg4%2Bled%2Bbulb%2B12v%2Bac%2Fdc%2B180%2Bbeam%2Bno%2Bflicker%2Bdimmable%2Benergy%2Bsaving%2Blamp%2Bg4%2Bbulb%2B8%2Bpacks%2B%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-1&th=1

What a big difference in brightness; these are 200 lumen, and going from 20 watts/bulb to 2 not only saves battery, but a whole lot less heat per puck. I did all the puck lights in the coach, living room and bedroom.

On 3/10/2024 at 5:56 AM, joefromperry said:

The Spendide washer/dryer, model WD2100 has worked fine in my 2003 Signature, until yesterday. Now when I start it everything seems good: door locks, water starts to fill, etc. But within a minute, it seems to lose power, the red light flickers and goes off, then starts up again where it left off for maybe 10-15 seconds, then repeats the shutoff. I went through troubleshooting section in the service/training/owners manual(s), but it doesn't really speak to this issue. I know the w/d is connected to the third air conditioner for load sharing, but this happens whether the ac is on or off. No matter which setting it's on, wash, spin, dry, etc., it does the same. Drum spins okay, so not belt. It's going to be a pain in the dupa to pull it out, if that's what I need to do. I'll call Westland tomorrow, but I thought I'd first see if anyone here has experienced and resolved similar. Thanks in advance.

Update: after working through some troubleshooting with Westland tech, it's a real possibility that the problem is a loose wire somewhere in the unit. I won't be able to pull the washer until I get home, but will update then. The only alternative is a control board problem. like broken solder connection. He said boards were no longer available. Thanks for the suggestions.

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Eliminate first.

Turn off the W/D breaker.  Then chase down the Intellitec AES module….supposedly under the bed. Disconnect the LINE side Romex and the W/D Romex. Temporarily wire nut them together and then test. A failed AES can still be the issue as it is very common failure part due to “misuse”.

If it is the AES, then replace and make a sticky note, if needed, to NEVER EVER attempt to run the Rear AC when using the W/D. This is, per all the posts here, the number one failure.  It also does NOT do the W/D any good to have the AES cutting power on and off repeatedly.

The circuit was never designed for constant switching or such.  The manual warns against this also.  The AES was just a “load sensor”.  Due to the circuit inside the W/D, running both just destroys the AES.

May not be the cause, but is most probable and needs to be eliminated prior to working on a “may not be broke” W/D.

Good Luck….

Thank you, Tom. I'll do that today. It was my first thought, but I need to find it. However, in just messing with it now per Splendide's troubleshooting, if I set the dryer to 30 minutes and turn it on, the "auto dry" LED is on, and door lock/status goes on and dryer starts.  Then, as I mentioned, the status light flickers and goes off, but the "auto dry" LED stays on, which tells me that I'm not losing power to the dryer and maybe it's. not the AES. Thoughts?

Edit: I think the W/D is connected to my middle AC unit, not the bedroom. But your point is well-taken. I'll test that out, too.

 

On 3/9/2024 at 6:18 AM, Bruce S said:

This remote also controls the driver's side awning but you have to select it via the middle button.  You will see 4 red LED's below the buttons and each time you depress the center button a different LED will flash, from one to four followed by all lights flashing.  Your Girard is likely the first LED.  If you select the second LED then the next awning will operate from the up/down buttons.  If you have 3 or 4 motorized awnings they will work in a similar fashion until all LED's are flashing then they would all work together.  If you press the middle button again you cycle around to the first awning in a continuous loop.  The middle button also stops the awning's travel if it is in motion.  

Well, that's interesting. My remote has just one LED below the buttons, but if I push the center button, the LED flashes once, and if I push it again it flashes twice. I have only the big awning and a door awning. But I have a three-position wall switch for the door awning, top and bottom for in and out, and middle for off. I'll have to experiment to see if/how the remote does the door. With the door switch in the middle/off position, the remote doesn't affect it. Thanks for the info.

The Spendide washer/dryer, model WD2100 has worked fine in my 2003 Signature, until yesterday. Now when I start it everything seems good: door locks, water starts to fill, etc. But within a minute, it seems to lose power, the red light flickers and goes off, then starts up again where it left off for maybe 10-15 seconds, then repeats the shutoff. I went through troubleshooting section in the service/training/owners manual(s), but it doesn't really speak to this issue. I know the w/d is connected to the third air conditioner for load sharing, but this happens whether the ac is on or off. No matter which setting it's on, wash, spin, dry, etc., it does the same. Drum spins okay, so not belt. It's going to be a pain in the dupa to pull it out, if that's what I need to do. I'll call Westland tomorrow, but I thought I'd first see if anyone here has experienced and resolved similar. Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: so, after messing around with it and new(er) batteries, I discovered that it controls the Girard awning. 

I have a white three-button remote with "somfy" on the bottom for my 2003 Signature, but have no idea what it's for. I've read maybe the Girard awning, maybe the interior window shades, or something else. It takes a 2430 button battery, but even with a new battery, it doesn't seem to control anything. Anyone have similar that can provide insight? Thanks.

19 hours ago, David Pratt said:

When you have the issue of "Slide Creep" in or out in most cases it will be a dirty solenoid valve seat and extending and retracting the slide several times and holding the switch on for several seconds after the slide comes to a stop will usually clear up the issue.

If the problem persists after you exercise the slide you will need to remove the offending solenoid valve and manually clean it and replace the o-rings and re-install the valve assembly. I have discovered that the HWH o-rings fit to loose on the valve and sometimes will not seat correctly and can also be a cause for slide out creep. The best replacement o-rings I have found are the green O-rings used in automotive AC systems and are available at any auto parts store. They fit the valves tight and do not fail.

When trouble shooting, remember that if the slide is creeping out that it will be the Retract Solenoid that is at fault and if the slide is creeping in it will be the Extend Solenoid that is at fault. A leaking internal shaft seal will not cause the slide to creep in either direction.

This is exactly what I had to do with my 2003 Signature when it kept creeping out. I ended up replacing the solenoid/valve and all is good. I have the old one to replace the o-rings and keep as a spare.

 

9 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Thanks Jet,  I'll try and get those hatches open tomorrow.  I've tried to open them in the past just out of curiosity, so didn't force them.  They really seem to be stuck or I'm not releasing them properly.  Going to look from inside the engine bay and see if I can figure out how they work, but if anyone has any info on opening them I would greatly appreciate it. 

I do have a pump that I was going to use.  I hope I can feed it out the back as I don't want to string 10 gallons of fluid through the coach.  I can't imagine that is going to go without at least a little spill.

On my 2003 Signature the access floor panel by the bed fits pretty snugly to keep heat / air from the inside. Once you release all four latches, give each some pretty good tugs and. it should come free.

14 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:

FMCA Roadside Assistance is very reasonable and has outstanding coverage.

+1 on FMCA. We had two tows within on year of our 45' coach, each of which would have cost us around. $1k (per towing service). I never had to do or sign anything; all taken care of quickly and efficiently. Also includes my wife and cars for no additional cost.

 

 

21 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

Joe, The files are in the Files section on this site. No charge.

After 2 years and 10,000+ miles I have not lost any covers.

Thank you, Martin.