joefromperry

The Spendide washer/dryer, model WD2100 has worked fine in my 2003 Signature, until yesterday. Now when I start it everything seems good: door locks, water starts to fill, etc. But within a minute, it seems to lose power, the red light flickers and goes off, then starts up again where it left off for maybe 10-15 seconds, then repeats the shutoff. I went through troubleshooting section in the service/training/owners manual(s), but it doesn't really speak to this issue. I know the w/d is connected to the third air conditioner for load sharing, but this happens whether the ac is on or off. No matter which setting it's on, wash, spin, dry, etc., it does the same. Drum spins okay, so not belt. It's going to be a pain in the dupa to pull it out, if that's what I need to do. I'll call Westland tomorrow, but I thought I'd first see if anyone here has experienced and resolved similar. Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: so, after messing around with it and new(er) batteries, I discovered that it controls the Girard awning. 

I have a white three-button remote with "somfy" on the bottom for my 2003 Signature, but have no idea what it's for. I've read maybe the Girard awning, maybe the interior window shades, or something else. It takes a 2430 button battery, but even with a new battery, it doesn't seem to control anything. Anyone have similar that can provide insight? Thanks.

19 hours ago, David Pratt said:

When you have the issue of "Slide Creep" in or out in most cases it will be a dirty solenoid valve seat and extending and retracting the slide several times and holding the switch on for several seconds after the slide comes to a stop will usually clear up the issue.

If the problem persists after you exercise the slide you will need to remove the offending solenoid valve and manually clean it and replace the o-rings and re-install the valve assembly. I have discovered that the HWH o-rings fit to loose on the valve and sometimes will not seat correctly and can also be a cause for slide out creep. The best replacement o-rings I have found are the green O-rings used in automotive AC systems and are available at any auto parts store. They fit the valves tight and do not fail.

When trouble shooting, remember that if the slide is creeping out that it will be the Retract Solenoid that is at fault and if the slide is creeping in it will be the Extend Solenoid that is at fault. A leaking internal shaft seal will not cause the slide to creep in either direction.

This is exactly what I had to do with my 2003 Signature when it kept creeping out. I ended up replacing the solenoid/valve and all is good. I have the old one to replace the o-rings and keep as a spare.

9 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Thanks Jet,  I'll try and get those hatches open tomorrow.  I've tried to open them in the past just out of curiosity, so didn't force them.  They really seem to be stuck or I'm not releasing them properly.  Going to look from inside the engine bay and see if I can figure out how they work, but if anyone has any info on opening them I would greatly appreciate it. 

I do have a pump that I was going to use.  I hope I can feed it out the back as I don't want to string 10 gallons of fluid through the coach.  I can't imagine that is going to go without at least a little spill.

On my 2003 Signature the access floor panel by the bed fits pretty snugly to keep heat / air from the inside. Once you release all four latches, give each some pretty good tugs and. it should come free.

14 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:

FMCA Roadside Assistance is very reasonable and has outstanding coverage.

+1 on FMCA. We had two tows within on year of our 45' coach, each of which would have cost us around. $1k (per towing service). I never had to do or sign anything; all taken care of quickly and efficiently. Also includes my wife and cars for no additional cost.

21 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

Joe, The files are in the Files section on this site. No charge.

After 2 years and 10,000+ miles I have not lost any covers.

Thank you, Martin.

On 10/19/2022 at 1:59 PM, Martinvz said:

My son had designed left and right versions and then 3D printed several of each for me in ABS. 1 year and 9,000 miles later these are all still in place. 
I can get the files and make it available.

would you want the files?

I would definitely be interested in the files, as my son has a 3-D printer. Cost of files for right and left sides? Thanks.

Joe

At some point I got straps from Carefree that were too long and cut them to size.

When the Big Boy on my 2003 Signature was not functioning, I put in an Echo-Charge to keep both banks charged until I was able to clean / fix my Big Boy. I left the Echo-Charge connected, but removed the fuse,  making it non-functioning, until if and when I need to work on big boy.

• Well, hopefully when you parked the coach you added Biobor (or similar). Probably a good idea to change fuel filters, but I would not drain the fuel unless it's bad with algae. After changing filters, checking battery levels, etc., start it up and evaluate. If it's pretty cold, you might need anti-gel, if it wasn't added. Good luck.

4 hours ago, Paul Busch said:

I really don’t need much for it. Shipping would be a little. I am in Lake Geneva wi area trying to get ready for winter. The stroke is a setback but it came out of a fib which could have been much worse and a wake up call to pay attention. I had planned on going somewhere warm and now I am preparing for winter but life’s plenty good.😊

Can I email you, Paul? My email is jwlorekjr@gmail.com. Thanks.

Joe

25 minutes ago, Paul Busch said:

I have a German made GEDORE RAHSOL DREMOMETER type D 100-550 3/4” torque wrench I won’t be using any more. 

I can make you a great deal on if you are interested? I can’t remember but I think it was a couple thousand new and I just paid a few hundred back in 2012 to have it recalibrated. It is very accurate. I used it with a 3/4” breaker bar and a piece of 2” x 3’ pipe to work. It is 32”s long.

Around thanksgiving I had a stroke and lost the sight in my right eye. I will be putting my coach up for sale along with a bunch of stuff like this. I always enjoyed fixing things myself but mostly saving money and knowing that it was done right. Let me know if you are interested.

paul busch

I am very sorry to hear about your stroke, Paul. Thank you for the offer, but although I am interested, I'm pretty sure it's way beyond what I should spend for a tool I would use infrequently.

14 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

  The German one above comes with extensions, and as long as you stay within the rating, then you can add 20' of extension and that might be enough weight to provide the torque, that one bends at the nut, so it can't tell if there's a gorilla at 2' or a little girl at 10'. 

I don't see a German one.  EDIT: I do now

18 minutes ago, cowpoke said:

I go about this a completely different way from years of experience in the trucking industry. I carry the tire repair plugs in case of a leak I can put a plug in and usually can make it to a tire shop, and most times it never leaks again. You have a good air supply from your coach,  so its plug and go. You may be saying, what if I have a front tire blow out? If you do, you're probably going to need to call a tire shop, but in all the years of running semi's I've never had a front tire blow out, I've had them on the drivers and most of the time able to limp into a tire shop----this is strictly my take on all this. I won't even consider carrying a spare for the coach---I'm loaded down enough, but we all have our own way of doing things.

Thank you,  Dexter. The stuff I'm talking about here is pretty much for me in the yard. Anything happening on the road,  I'd probably call my roadside assistance.

21 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I took a different approach.  I bought the longest breaker I could find.  40" was barely enough so I bought a torque multiplier to get to 600 ft lbs (you never know how much the last air wrench guy torqued them to, or if the bolts are frozen).  I added an extension for the rear wheels.  For re-torquing I bought a digital torque gauge.  This way I have flexibility for other "projects".

Remember those tires are 120 lbs.  Better have a method of getting the tire on / off.  You can raise the coach with levelers until the axle is light, then use a floor jack to adjust the wheel off the ground.  Also use a pry bar to shimmy the wheel into place. 

I'll add sources when I get home in a few hours.

- bob

Thank you,  Bob. My son and son-in-law do almost all of my heavy lifting.

2 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

No I don’t believe so, I don’t think it will give you the proper torque you want. If you’re going to buy an electric impact, Milwaukee (and other brands) make a 1” electric impact, I think I would lean that way if you want to buy tools. It’s expensive to tool up to do tires and wheels but if you’re going to do the work yourself buy once cry once, jmo!

Thanks, Jeff. I'm looking at all options.

25 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

An impact wrench torque limiting adapter is a rough estimation of torque, it will transmit more torque with a larger impact gun than it will with a smaller impact gun.  I would GUESS, with a battery impact, the amount of torque transmitted through them will vary depending on the charge and temp of the battery, maybe even the temp of the torque stick.  I say guess, because the impact will have the same mechanism hitting whether the battery is weak or strong, unlike different guns that I know will put different torque through a torque stick. 

I would try to make a manual torque wrench, or even just a breaker bar or ratchet, easier to use.  An adjustable prop that holds the pivot head steady will make it much easier to torque and remove lug nuts.  500ft/lbs at 4' is only 125 pounds, if that's too much, then use a 4' cheater pipe to get out to 7' where it will be 70 pounds.  If that's still too much, probably time to call a service truck. 

edit:  The impact will work great for doing most of the work, then torque them by hand.  If you have access to help or the right tools, you can do an experiment and see if the sticks are accurate enough by checking with a torque wrench after they're tightened. 

If you spend a lot more money, the better milwaukee impacts can dial in the torque, you'd have to investigate if that is accurate enough for you, and if you're willing to pay the price.  I know the nuts are a lot more likely to get checked after the first 50 miles if it's a battery impact instead of a torque wrench, stand, and cheater pipe.

Thank you, Ben. I'm thinking I could probably pull/push 125 pounds. That said, I thought a cheater bar could/should not be used with a torque wrench; is that not accurate?

1 minute ago, Jdw12345 said:

It might be hard to find a torque stick with 450 foot pounds of torque in a 1/2” drive, you might end up getting a 3/4” impact to do the job. I use a 3/4” air impact and a 4’ long torque wrench on my wheels. 

I have a 1/2" to 3/4" impact adapter. Would that not work?

50 minutes ago, Tony G. said:

Use one of these.

 

Steelman 3/4-Inch Drive 475 ft-lb Torque Extension for Impact Wrench, 10-inch Extension, Corrosion-Resistant Powder-Coated Steel, Yellow https://a.co/d/6indzZl

Thank you, Tony. I've never used one of these. I have this Ridgid 1/2" high torque impact wrench; will it work with it? How does this work? Sorry for my ignorance. Thanks. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/18v-octane-brushless-1-2-inch-high-torque-6-mode-impact-wrench-r86211b

I'm looking at possibly purchasing a torque wrench that would allow me to remove and replace my wheels, meaning capability of around 500 ft-lbs or more. The pneumatic ones sound interesting, as I'm not strong enough to take a 4 foot manual torque wrench to 500 ft-lbs. A question, though, is how does one control a pneumatic wrench to stop at 450 ft-lbs? I'm thinking maybe something like this: www.vevor.com:.webloc

Thanks for the help, Bruce. Maybe part of my problem is that I have this purple plug here that is not connected to anything; you wouldn't have any pictures or recollections of where it might go, do you? I can't tell from any wiring diagrams I have. it's not a good picture because it doesn't show the other wire. I don't know what should be plugged where on this box. Any ideas?

Sorry for the delay, Bruce. When you say your radio worked, do you mean the audio, or were you able to see stations and other stuff? I can see the stations on my Aladdin screen, so I know the video part of the Aladdin does work, just doesn't show the Aladdin screens. There is a small group of wires to the back of the monitor, and then a single wire, which I thought might be a ground. Where does the Aladdin video signal come in, the bundle or the single wire? Thanks.

Thank you for the thorough explanation and diagram. My coach has two front slides, which are powered by the pump and solenoids in the front, as is the generator slide. I have six solenoids. I've been talking with Pete from HWH in Arizona, and he told me something a little different from your explanation; he said if the generator creeps out it is definitely a problem with the extend solenoid. Either way, when I get the replacement I'll put in in the extend position, and if the problem doesn't stop, I'll then put it in the retract position. So, I just installed the new solenoid, replacing the extend one. It's been a couple hours, not much time, but the generator slide is staying closed, not creeping out. I'll see what it looks like in the morning. Thanks for your information.

Update: well, it's been 18 hours and the slide is still in. This morning I'll run it in and out multiple times, leaving it closed, and see if it stays that way. If it does, I'll consider the problem solved.

Final update: It's been multiple days and the generator slide is not extending on its own. I've run it in and out many times, but it doesn't creep any more, so I consider the creep out problem solved by replacing the extend solenoid/valve. Thanks, again, for all the suggestions and info.

9 hours ago, David Pratt said:

There are two solenoids available from HWH. RAP39015 is a large diameter solenoid is no longer available from HWH and was replaced by RAP0642.

The RAP0642 solenoid is the large diameter solenoid-2.25" diameter and Solenoid RAP90729 is the small diameter one 1.5" diameter.

Solenoid RAP90729 has been replaced by Solenoid RAP42632. RAP90729 has a nut to release hydraulic pressure and RAP42632 has a white lever. They are interchangeable.

The correct solenoid for your coach is RAP42632, the small diameter solenoid and it will have a white pressure release lever instead of a nut to release the hydraulic pressure.

The older solenoids all had the nuts to release the hydraulic pressure and HWH superseded them to the new solenoids with the levers. All the solenoids are interchangeable.

The RAP90729 Solenoid is still available thru the Internet. Just Google HWH and the part number on either solenoid and you will find many new solenoids for sale.

Thank you. This is exactly the info I need. Unfortunately, before I saw this I got some incorrect info and ordered the large solenoid. I didn't realize my mistake until I got it. Fortunately, the seller is going to exchange it for the correct one and I should be good to go.

But I do have a question: exactly how does the system work? I know when I push the extend or retract, the motor starts, and then one or the other solenoids let the fluid flow. What is the function of the electrical connector on the solenoid? Is there an electromagnet that pulls the needle out or in? The reason I ask is that if I close the gen slide, in a short while it creeps open. But if, after closing it, I unplug the solenoid, it doesn't creep. And yet there isn't any voltage in the connector unless I push the switch. I'm not explaining this very well. Sorry.

I need to replace one of the solenoids that are used for my generator slide and my slide out rooms (all are the same), but I can't find a part number. I thought it was RAP39015, but that's about twice the diameter of mine. TIA