InGodWeTrust

5 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

Ok, I copied a page out of the Xantrex AGS Manual (page 78) and highlighted the instructions on how to connect to an Onan Generator with the colors of the Onan Generator Start/Stop switch wires.  I hope this will sort your issue.  Let me know if you need more info.

  -Rick N

975-0082-01-01_Rev-FXanbus-AGS-Owners-Guide.pdf 3.87 MB · 1 download

Thank you so much Rick that is exactly what I needed apparently didn't read that part but, to be honest I still wouldn't have figured out without your color depiction. Xantrex support did also include blue wire in connection connected to  pin 12 and pin 13 tied into  pin's 16 and 18. Anyhow thank you so much for all your help truly appreciate all your help. 

Kind Regards, 

Thank you everyone for your input finally got it squared away. For anyone connecting AGS from a rv2012 to a sw3012 this is the breakdown. 

Genset Green-pin 14

"" Brown- pin 16,18,13

"" Red- pin 17

"" Blue- pin 12

Hope this helps.

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

All the colors are labeled in my diagram posted above.  Do you have specific question? 

  - Rick N 

Yes,  this diagram was a big help my issue is on the AGS side of the connection not sure which gen start/run to connect. Diagram shows 3 relay 1's open, closed, and common so, according to pdf I believe that would be the brown wire. Which relay should I connect this to? 

Interesting.  Well one color down and only three to go. Thanks Rick

Wow that was a disapointing find but atleast it was discovered and solved. 

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

I went back and looked at photos I took when I removed my inverter and it was the same way,  Had wires coming in and going out.  I think these are the wires that go to my bedroom generator start switch.  Just an educated guess, don't know for sure. 

That does make sense forgot about switch inside bedroom. Did you have same colors? Red, green, & brown, blue was not connected. 

4 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

This diagram is for a 2005 Knight, but the colors and functions of the Gen Start should be the same, or very similar.  What is not clear from the documentation you provided is HOW the relays for Start and Stop work.  What the Onan generator is looking for is about 12 Seconds on the START wire and then an open.  The same for the STOP wire.  This simulates you holding the Start Button (or Stop Button) for 12 seconds and then releasing.  That should be sufficient time to Start or Stop the Generator.  What is does NOT want is a constant voltage for the whole time (i.e., like you indefinitely hold the button) for either the Start or Stop function. 

  -Rick N. 

2005 Knight AGS Wiring Diag.pdf 338.19 kB · 8 downloads

Thanks for pdf not sure why they have 2 greens, 2 reds, and 2 browns coming from generator on my onan 7.5 qd. 

26 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Pull your original inverter and AGS Prints or pull the original inverter & ags manual.  You also need to pull the ONAN Manual.  There is only 5 or six wires used on my Magnum AGS.  I do know that the ONANS, typically, per talking to Magnum, were configured as “NEGATIVE START”.  IF you look at how your remote generator start and stop switch, then that tells you, with the ONAN manual how it works.  

if that doesn’t help, then maybe someone will chime in, but you should also be able to get your new inverter’s tech support to help,  

What is not clear to me is whether you are trying to salvage your old AGS, which may or may not be compatible with your new inverter or if you have a new AGS, same brand as the new inverter….  If you are salvaging, then you are going to have to understand the wiring….which means sitting down with 3 separate systems (inverter, AGS & ONAN) and then following the needs of the ONAN….as you do not want to reverse as your remote switches wouldn’t work.

Good Luck….

Good luck…

Thanks Tom, 

I tried pulling up documentation from Onan 7.5 QD HDKA but nothing that references wiring schematic need to dig further. As for AGS system it's the newer AGS connected via xanbus 809-0915. I really cringe with the possibility of crossing wires hopefully Xantrex tech support can help. 

Any insights would help. Replaced rv2012 inverter with sw3012 all went well except currently hung up on wiring for AGS 20 point connecter. 2012 only utilized 3 of the four incoming wires green, brown, red labeled gen run 1& 2; gen start 1 & 2. Green wire (gen run 2) was pigtailed into 2 green wire wing nut, 1st brown wire (gen run 1) 2nd brown (gen start 1) all tied into brown incoming feed. Red (gen start 1) pigtailed into incoming red feed. Blue (not used) not sure what this is? Anyhow these are the photos any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

18 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

i opened the 2003 Windsor prints and the resolution was not clear enough.  however, i found the Camelot 2004 and the main panel looks the same. 

ReRead your post. if you have a single 30 A inverter breaker and you may have a downstream 120 VAC subpanel, probably with at least one GFCI, that is called a Single IN Dual OUT. the two #10 wires feed that sub panel.  if your new inverter doesn't support or doesn't take into account, that common configuration.....then i suggest you download the Magnum PS2012 or any of their inverters.  they explain in detail how a Single IN Dual OUT works and gives you a diagram. figure out how to revise or install your two subpanels safely.

You might call tech support on your new inverter and have them send you a print or tell you how...there are, if you read the magnum, many different configurations and tech support should be able to assist.  our original supported it and the most of the commonly used Magnums support them.  

Hi Tom,

Thanks for digging in further. I finally got it squared away apparently when I attached romex connector in all my effort wrangling 10ga wire I must have exposed wire from rubbing on casing so L2 was making contact with metal therefore shorting itself out. Whew glad surgeprotector kicked in. Again thanks for all your help greatly appreciated let me know if I can ever return the favor. 

Kind regards, 

Will

Update: Inverter confusion finally sorted out had some bare wire making contact causing the short. Thanks to everyone for your help and insights greatly appreciated. I will now be attempting to install AGS seems like old Trace only utilized gen run and gen start features so hopefully I can decipher all this. 

13 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

They are very knowledgeable here is a link. They could probably help you. 
https://youtu.be/Djzlm_FWF3w
 

Thank you very informative. Wish they would continue producing more videos. 

So, started new sw3012 install yesterday, but ran into an issue on the AC side. What I found is two feeds coming from panel each is a 10 gauged 1 black (load) and 1 neutral, 1 ground. The problem I'm having is sw3012 on the incoming side 1 neutral, L1, and L2 and of course ground bus bar not sure what to do with L2 neutral anyone run into? This is how feeds came off old inverter. 

29 minutes ago, Tim-AZ said:

I haven't. But I did remove my 2012 and put in a Victron Multi Plus II.

Thanks Tim, looked at that option seemed like install would have been too involved with my limited knowledge.  I was looking for plug and play option and since Trace is now Xantrex thought this would be the best match but from what I'm told Magnum is a closer replacement. Anyhow, already purchase and looking to install tomorrow weather permitting (Little Rock, AR). Thanks for feedback

17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Many have switched to Magnum MS2012.  Several reasons…..better tech support is tops.  Second is that Magnum has a hard and soft reset so there are fewer reboot issues.  When working with folks that have the Xantrex or Trace, if there is an internal fault and the inverter will not start back up, there is no clear trouble shooting, where the Magnum has step by step fault codes and several ways to clear.  In addition, there is more Magnum knowledge here for member help.

regardless, you should have a new inverter, remote and BTS and install all 3.  The wiring for the AGS is simple and Nagnum will walk you through which wires go where.  Odds are you have what Magnum calls a “negative start”.  When I had a flaky AGS, they had me experiment and verify the wiring and are super sharp.

if you look at the Magnum, be sure to understand how your system is configured with the Trace.  You need to have the print and know the inverter CB size and whether you have a sub panel or the outputs are direct fed.  Your old inverter and remote manual should have the schematics and the new one, Trace or Magnum must be configured or installed the same.

Good Luck.

Thanks Tom,

Wish I would have dug in further into adequate replacement. My first assumption was Trace now Xantrex that sw3012 would be the best option especially since dual in and out. I did purchase remote adapters for remote and AGS thought about combox but will have to wait and see if I really need that functionality. Where should 4/0 ground wire go with new 3012? I've seen some put this directly with negative connection. Thanks

Has anyone swapped out Trace rv2012 for Xantrex sw3012 inverter? Seems straight forward the only hang ups I can foresee is old tracer had a 4/0 ground attached to inverter new 3012 does not have connection point. Second is getting AGS (auto gen set) properly configured to generator mainly the 20 point connecting wiring do colors on current Trace correspond to new 3012? Any help with this is greatly appreciated.  

On 6/14/2021 at 4:43 PM, Mark B said:

I just finished my electrical system upgrade. A little spendy but I now have the system I want.

Replaced the Xantrex RV2012 with a new Xantrex SW3012 and controller with auto gen start.

Replaced the old IOTA transfer switch to a WFCO ATS.

Added a Southwire Surge Guard hardwired in with the remote monitor.

Replaced the solar controller with a Victron 100/50 mppt, 200 watts on the roof expandable to 700.

Added a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, redundant to the inverter controller but it has bluetooth and is networked with the solar controller. I located the shunt in a spot under the main fuse. 

Pulled network cable from the back to the front, ran it up the passenger side A pillar into the control cabinet. This was by far the hardest part of the project. Cables for the battery monitor, surge protector and inverter controller.

Up-sized the wire on the positive side from the battery box to the disconnect, to the fuse, and out to the inverter line. All the negative and positive run to the inverter were already 4/0.

Finally replaced my dead 4-6 volt house batteries with 2 100 amp hour Battleborn batteries.

This project was completed over a five month period with four trips in between. We are going to spend some time off grid to test it all next week on our way to Bishop Ca. Going to stop at Alabama Hills in Lone Pine for a couple of nights.

I'd be glad to answer any question about my setup.

Hey  Mark thanks for info replacing rv2012 for sw3012 what did you do with ground  on old trace.

We have been using nomad internet (the works anywhere plan) great unlimited plan no throttling.

13 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

It wasn't difficult at all. I had Rite-Way Axle & Suspension on San Fernando Blvd in California do the deed. I don't remember what the cost was at the time, but it wasn't outrageous.

The Josam's appointment went exceptionally well today. I got two new Toyo Tires for the front axle. Plus, they also installed the Tyron Bands I had purchased at the Monacoers Gathering this past February along with a brand-new set of Balance Master's.

They checked my TRW Steering box making sure it was adjusted properly and installed a new HWH Air Compressor that I had purchased on eBay. They also checked the entire system and all of the 6-Pack valves. There found two that are leaking ever so slightly so next winter when I am back to Florida, I will have them rebuild those two valves when I have more time. I also grabbed the failed HWH Air Compressor to see if I can resurrect it back to life. I would like to find something to place over the entire compressor fixture to eliminate it getting covered with road dirt and debris.

Richard, 

Sounds like a worthwhile visit you should feel much safer going down the interstate. Let me know if you can come up with something for HWH Compressor that's a great idea mine was just sitting without anything to hold it down I wondered why it made so much noise every time it kicked on (vibration) took some zip ties to strap it down as a temporary fix. 

6 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Gary,

I had the front hubs converted to oil bath hubs back in 8/2013 while living in CA. Never changed out the oil but always had it checked every year when doing the chassis PM work. If needed they would add some synthetic to bring it back to full level.

There is a variety of weights out there for gear oil. I would use a good 80/90 W Synthetic Gear Oil or whatever your local truck repair center recommends.

Richard,

How difficult was that conversion? My current setup is sealed with bolts all around not sure how I would check these. By the way how did your trip to Josams go today? I should be in tomorrow Barry is waiting on UPS to deliver my drag link. 

52 minutes ago, RVhorod said:

Does your coach have solar? If so, I would separate  the wires from the charge controller to the battery cables or cover the solar panels with card board.

Dennis,

Yes, but only the factory installed 85 watt panel. 

Hello everyone, wanted to know if anyone has experienced this. I started the process of replacing my starter but after disconnecting both house and chassis batter I still get arching when wrenching any idea where this power source maybe coming from? Disconnected shore power house and chassis battery only other source I can think of is factory solar panel. Thanks guys in advance for any feedback this will be helpful especially since I will also be doing some welding to rig. 

Thanks guys I appreciate everyone's advice I will try each resource and see who can squeeze me in on short notice. Seems like all shops are backed up or short handed for help. 

Yeah did get underneath and was able to find sixpack found left and right sides. I will try calling HWH for help diagnosing the problem rather than assuming. Does anyone have the part# to solenoid for HWH 500 series?

Hello everyone recently had air bags and shocks replaced but still have a lean in front driver side can anyone suggest a place near Titusville, Florida that works on HWH systems. Or, is this something someone with minimal no how can do. My coach is a 2003 Monaco Windsor thanks in advance for any suggestions. 

Toby,

Very nice thanks for sharing.

On 2/9/2022 at 11:42 AM, TOBYLB4 said:

Took out the couch and put in a fireplace with a televator. Put 2 new cabinets where the TV was. 

Toby, 

Nice job love your setup where did you get fireplace entertainment center from?

Steven, 

After a night of unrest I decided the only to find out is to take the step of no return and gutted out the norcold in order to see what I was truly working with. As it turns out after drooping furnace base I now have 70" clearance with the 1/2" clearance top of furnace the best part it will only require a slight mod on the outside not much. I will begin framing tomorrow using same approach you used. Was that kiltz you used on walls? Thanks Steven I'll post photos once I get started next week. 

On 2/5/2022 at 10:24 AM, jacwjames said:

If you have an Atwood furnace I'm not sure what would be involved as mine was a Suburban.  

Prior to deciding whether I could fit a Samsung in my coach I did a bunch of measuring, there was a quite a bit of room above the furnace plus the furnace was sitting on a platform.  Other Monaco owners were successful installing a Samsung, although the earlier models were slightly shorter.  So with all this info I decided I could do the change.  I got it in but not a lot of spare room available. 

Jim,

Yeah I don't have much room to spare even with drooping the platform it sat on the only adjustment I will need to make is raising furnace 3/16" for recommended clearance on the bottom. On your install I noticed you didn't place cover plate over the top was that due to space limitations? Asking this because have little room to spare and this may be the same setup I will need to go with. How did you anchor the fridge down?

10 hours ago, Steven P said:

Will, I did not have to lower or move my furnace at all.  I lowered the fridge floor to just above the furnace and that gave me the needed clearance.  For the power, I have 2 outlets.  One that uses the inverter and one that is shore or genny power only.  I chose the inverter so I could keep the fridge on driving or boondocking without using the genny.  One thing to note. I believe 2006 was the year they raised the ceilings a few inches which may give me more clearance than you have, but see above post from jacwjames about lowering the furnace.   Here's the link from my original post:  

 

Thanks Steven will do. What is the proper clearance for furnace? I have Atwood 8940 DCLP-III looked it over said I needed to have about 1/2" of clearance if I read that correct it sits on a platform about 2" high. 

8 hours ago, jacwjames said:

My 2002 Windsor has the lower ceiling height, no room to go up so all the modification was to lower the fridge.  When I was done the fridge was ~1/2" above the furnace.  I did not build a shelf but instead used conduit strut material and made 2 separate legs that the fridge slide in on.  After I made sure it would work I blocked the rear portion the legs and added wood/support in the front I could screw the legs too.

I had to split hairs on each leg as the front and back wheels did not exactly line up but I thought it was more important to have the read on the struts, the front was partially on buy then I made individual supports that anchored the front using the fridge leveling brackets so the front wheels don't take any weight. 

I put blocking on the back to keep the fridge ~2" off the back wall and then blocking on the rear of the sides to keep the fridge centered as I slide it in, I actually cut a couple of these longer on a taper so it centered the fridge as I pushed it in.  I had to do multiple test fittings to make sure everything fit, on good advice from Van Will & Bod Nodine I made a sturdy dolly that I could move the fridge in and out easily as I test fit it.  I had help getting the fridge in the RV but then did the rest myself. 

On the top I used angle and used the heavy duty 3M adhesive tape and then screwed to the face of the cabinet, painted these black so can't hardly see when everything was done.  Not sure why 2nd picture is upside down???

Hi Jim, 

Looks great I am looking at getting my conversion completed in about a week but I am getting second thoughts my only issue that I can't seem to figure out is if I need to drop furnace which sits on a platform about 2" high if I do that than I will need to figure out how to line up exhaust on the outside plate. I have read of others cutting out holes on the side of there rigs would rather not do that. What was your fridge height? I went with a Hiensen that comes in at 69" tall it will go inside a 2003 Monaco Windsor so I believe my ceiling is similar to yours. Anyhow I would appreciate any feedback. 

Kind Regards,

Will