Johnny Mo

A Sig does not need a steering stabilizer….

How old are your steer tires ?

When I first drove my Sig for the first time I thought it was out of alignment, pulled hard to the right. New tires it drives straight, had it aligned anyway….

I would like to get that from you...

I recently had my windshield replaced.

I didn't like how the rubber gutter above the windshield looked, just like yours Jeff. So I took it off and re-applied it.

I stripped off the old mounting tape from the rubber and applied 3M VHB HD mounting tape. I recommend using 3M Tape Primer on the rubber before applying the tape and on the fiberglass otherwise it will not stick very well, mainly to the rubber.

When you attach the rubber leave about an 1/8" gap so you can put a bead of urethane sealant. I used what the installer used, Sikaflex P2G.

 Use masking tape and take your time applying urethane, you do not want to over do it as it is very messy. I used spray foam window cleaner after applying a bead and tooled it with my finger. 

I bought everything off Amazon

I replaced my controller March 2022, Danfoss 1163020

Radwell International NJ,  800 332 4336

$2300.00

You can send them your Fan Drive Control and have them rebuild it....

That is a gas...

Sorta reminds me of my first RV 🤣

Ditto on the Engine Brake, my first coach had an exhaust brake also... night and day difference....

I also  watch the wheels on truck/trailers as they pass, or I am passing. Specifically the steer tires, if I see that they are crossing the line and not correcting I will give a short blast on the horn. 

To remove the Shackles on the mud flap

Put a crescent wrench on the flat part of the pin, lefty loosie

if too tight, use a second crescent on the handle of the first

I have a good-working 15000 ac with heat pump, that works on the 5 button thermostat.

If you are interested….

I’ll take the drain kit

What State are you in ?

Vito, I don't quite understand your Aqua Hot question.

But yes, My AH works fine...

I replaced 2 of the 3 Dometic 15000 AC's. Only One of the three was bad, so I replaced the 2 that share the same thermostat along with a new t-stat.

So I have 1 good and 1 bad unit along with a 5 button thermostat for sale. $200.00

Will not ship, I live So Cal

I recently replaced the Booth Dinette and Jack Knife Sofa with a Table and Computer Desk, from Brad and Hall.

I had a Table and Desk in my last coach, not a fan of Booths (maybe because my body is not booth friendly). And also I really missed not having a Desk.

Still have the Booth Dinette and Sofa for sale.

The meter on the right is Line 1

They are close...

Thanks Tom and Ivan, I installed 2 meters at the breaker box.

Recently I had been working in the front run box when I noticed water all over, top to bottom. I had washed the coach a couple days prior.

So I got to work with compressed air and a towel, it looked like the door was open while washing and got sprayed (it was not open). Water was dripping off the bundle of wires at the top of the box, running down the circuit boards.  I could not find anything wet on the outside top or the sides of the box. 

As I was finishing wiping and still wondering how water got in there, I just happened to wipe the door seal from the bottom to the top and water shot out the top of the seal like a hose. The seal is round and hollow like a hose, It is one piece with the ends facing up on the left and right top corners of the opening. A flat seal runs horizontal at the top.

So I plugged the ends with RTV. I believe the seal filled with water while washing the coach. So while working in the frb wiring new running lights, opening and closing the door   water was squirting out of the seal. The door hinges at the top and latches at the bottom. So when I close the door I push it in tight with one hand and latch with the other.

Hence the water getting push out.

I know that all the these coaches are different, but check how your seals are installed...

2 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I never had Aladdin so this is my current solution for monitoring the AC power, regardless whether from shore or generator. I really just installed it because I had time on my hands while my wife is deciding what to pack for a trip. It gets readings from main dual breaker connections. Will see how it holds up and if it makes sense when on the road soon, hopefully. As I was installing it, I realized how inaccurate the Progressive EMS current reading is, compared to my clamp meter. I know the voltage readings can be calibrated and I have done it earlier in the EMS but not sure about current reading, yet, if even possible.

Ivan, I would like to do the same install as what you did. Can you share what meters you used and how they are wired.

Thanks in advance...

Tom,

I replaced the original TRC ATS with the understanding that it is not recommended/compatible with an upstream PWD50-EPO-H (or any other).

Tom,

Thanks ! That is what I was thinking of doing, just din't know where/how to go. I'll install the Display-Voltmeter-Transformer (2, for red and black) at the Panel.

And yes I exersize the Genny with a full load (3 AC's running for a couple hours monthly)

I'll let you know how it goes.

Bill h, thanks for your input, good to know. I want to monitor ac power.

I replaced the original transfer switch TRC Model 40250 with Southwire Model 40100 along with a hard wired Power Watchdog PWD50-EPO.

I can now monitor voltage and amps on my phone when using shore power, but not while using generator power. Since the Aladdin power monitoring was thru the old transfer switch I lost that with the new transfer (only) switch.

Would appreciate suggestions on how I can monitor voltage and amps while on generator power.

I recently replaced my skylight, I purchased from Icon Direct. After watching a YouTube video where James AZ expert install one.

The inner dome and garnish are good, I just replaced the outer dome. No problems with clearance.

My part #SL1830

I chose to go with smoke, but if you want to really lighten up your shower go with the clear.

Would appreciate any suggestions on helping me choose an ATS...

I currently have the original Southwire Surgeguard ATS Model 40250. I want to replace with a non-surge protected ATS along with a hard wired surge protector.

Can't decide between using a Relay Base ATS such as Esco Lyght LPT50BRD, or a mechanical ATS such as Southwire 40100

Thanks for any suggestions !

I had the same issue with an 2009 Dynasty, I found the 4th zone control board behind the mid ship television.

I used a wire tube brush with a flexible wire handle. Take off the grate and a little at a time  insert the brush and remove the junk…

Have you changed the battery ?