Walker

I had a similar problem with my headlights. There is an inline fuse in the front drivers side bay.  That fuse was blown and the wiring for it was melted.  

Passenger side of engine.

I just replaced my Iota with the esco.  It is a straight forward process, you shouldn't have any problems doing it yourself.  I ordered mine from Marine Parts Source
102 SCT Drive
White House, Tennessee 37188,
United States.

It was $205 to the door.

Hopefully, Monaco gave you enough extra wire to pull.

From memory, I think it is 40-50 in/lbs.

You could pull down the inside shower surround and measure how far the dome extends into the roof.

I was having similar problems with mine.  Mine had some t-tap connections that were not in the the best of shape(loose crimps and corrosion).   I replaced them and a few of the spade connectors. That fixed it for me.

Mine have done the same thing.  With the cost of the new gasket and the cleaning/prep time involved, I am very interested in a remedy also.

When my lift pump went bad (on a isl), the engine would still start and run.  It did take a little  longer to start. Obviously, starting that way is hard on the injector pump.   I never lost my prime, maybe that is why mine was able to start/run without the lift pump? Either way, the lift pump should be filling the filters. I paid $1k from cummins for the lift pump 2 years ago and installed it myself. Not a fun job. It sits between the block and frame rail.  

Cpu is on the passenger side of the engine mounted to the lift pump.  It uses the flow of fuel to cool it.

Can you hear the lift pump run when you turn the key to the run position?

I've used Blackstone labs and/or any local Caterpillar dealer.  Honestly,  I had the engine, coolant, and transmission tested, then changed all fluids/filters.  I only test engine oil at changes and coolant once a year.

MrAmbassador, 

The condenser fan is mounted on the side of the coach.  I swung it out so it could exhaust freely.  I also put a box fan in front of it.  The factory fan comes on when the dash switch is set to a/c. It was vacuumed for 1.75 hr at 30 inches.  It held this for 12 hours.  Static pressure says it is in the ballpark for charge, but the  low high side pressure made me question the compressor also.  Vent temps are 35° below ambient, better than nothing.  

I have a 2007 diplomat. The low side schrader valve leaked part of the charge out. Had the system evacuated the rest of the way-pulled out 22oz.  Replaced high and low valves, and vacuumed system down. Sticker says 52oz r134. At 52oz, low side was 15psi and high side was 55psi.  Added a total of 96oz.  At 94° ambient, static low side was 110psi and high side 135psi.  Running pressure at high idle, max fan, not recirculating, was low 21psi, high 165psi. Vent temp was 59.4°. Pressures seem low and vent temp seems high, but I am already double the charge of the sticker.  Any insight would be helpful. Thanks

I have a 2007 diplomat and have to repair the dash a/c.  Does anyone know what pag oil it uses? None of the stickers (that are legible) say the weight.

Thanks

I should have what you need. I'll try to check tomorrow.

The clearance issue is in a tight turn and then throw in slightly uneven terrain and  things could get ugly.

I installed trojan golf cart batteries.  So far I have been happy and they were slightly cheaper than interstates.

I believe you would have a very good chance of hitting the fiberglass.  There is not much clearance with the stock tires.

I recently was in a similar situation.  I decided to replace both units and use the new thermostat.  I like the new thermostat better.  I went with 15k blizzard nxt heat pumps.  They work well and are quieter than the penguins they replaced.  

I have know idea, but is it possible you have an air pocket in the cooling system from installing the scangauge sensor? By the way, I have a silver leaf and it does not coincide with my analog gauges. 

Rich- my eyes aren't what they used to be either.  Looking for blown fuses is a challenge.   I've started using the voltmeter with the sound on to check continuity.  The back of the fuse is open so I just probe both sides while it is still installed.

I would check your copper connections to make sure they are still round(-small radiator clamps have a habit of oblonging fittings). Cut the hose back to get a new section for the connection, if you have enough, and use crimp style clamps. Crimp style clamps provide a more uniform squeeze. 

Gary-the control board logic has to match the thermostat logic.  So basically ccc=old style boards and ccc2= new style boards.  IF you're replacing all of your a/c units, I don't see a reason not to switch to the new ccc2.  The dip switches are easy to set and really have no bearing on control board / thermostat choice.  The dip switches simply tell the thermostat what is hooked to it.  If you have a furnace turn on that dip switch, if you have heat strips, turn on that dip switch etc..

Pete thanks.  I am going to do that today.

Carney, everything was plug and play for me. I replaced old dometic(penguins with 5 button ccc) with new dometic(blizzards with ccc2). I have two heatpumps, and two furnaces, but no aquahot. Your new heat pumps must have the new style controllers to be compatible with the ccc2.  If you have any questions, I'll do my best to help.  I installed the pumps, hooked up the wiring, plugged the communication cables in and flipped the dip switches.  It was really that easy.

I installed two new a/c units and a new ccc2 thermostat. Everything works correctly.  When I change zones (I have two), I have to scroll through zone 3 and 4 (non-existent) to get back to zone 1. On zone 3 and 4 it says E1-makes sense since they don't exist.  How do I program zone 3 and 4 out?

Thanks