brokenarrow1244

I really like the post by Jim Pratten, May 2022. The crimp tool has many advantages  beyond the door "fix".  If we have winds and I want the door open, I use a bungee for safety. Tighten the rivets really helps.  I agree with your feeling about alterations. With that in mind, there are a lot of items we need on the older coaches that are no longer available and force us to change some things. The door mod is not easily abandoned if you decide against keeping it.

You will make the right choice for sure.

In CA. You could recycle that rim and get a pretty good amount for it.

Maybe you could get the original seller to cover the install for it.

If what you say is accurate it is most likely a defect. However, There are some dealers that have what is called " factory seconds" or Reconditioned rims. They are sometimes straightened from being out of round. Also the inner area of the rim needs to be viewed for any scuff marks that may be induced by tire mounting equipment. A Bead Setter might cause it.

Possibly getting back to the original seller of the rim may be a great option. I think you will get assistance from them no matter what they see. 

Often I have seen them supply seconds as new ( more $$ in profits) in place of original factory parts.

Maybe your invoice reads a clue into the matter. It may be different than what was verbal. It could still be new, but less than perfect. Polishing rims can cause considerable heat build up.

Give them a chance to make it right. Be glad you found it ... either way you are still safe!

If that blew apart on the road you might never have known what happened.

My coach has a courtesy rope light that is on a 12v circuit. also have a connection to turn on the pump. If that is of any help for you...great.

Here is a good one to watch

watch Dicor.htm

I recommend to review the use of rubbing or denatured alcohol  for a surface preparation. 

Google has a lot of useful information.

Also be careful where to use silicone.

RV101 -How to Cleaning and Protecting RV Roof-Dicor 

Great short video available that gives easy to follow information.

I find myself thinking every day as to how fortunate I am to have access to and to get the awesome and thorough help from the people in this forum.

Thanks so much for being available and willing to share  your wealth of knowledge!

I really appreciate the long version responses to some issues. I have found answers to problems that I was troubleshooting just by reviewing some of the responses to other peoples problems.

You are all really great.

Thank you again.

I had the same problem after cleaning and then running on propane, did a reset and switched over to shore power and the issue stopped for a while. I contacted my dealer and there was a failure on the recall part, They tested it and they supplied a replacement. That worked fine for a while then I had the total failure of the cooling unit and installed the Amish unit. So far it is okay.

Ask the dealer to check the unit and if it has been recalled again

That is where mine is located, behind the closet sliding door.

here is what mine looked like, just remove the metal panel to get a visual of yours

Mine acted much like you describe and very similar symptoms, I also had a situation with the 20 amp fuse* (breaker) It acted like it reset but it didnot. and when you change from shore to genset and back... watch things carefully to be sure they come on line as they should.

Good Luck

I have really enjoyed so many responses  to the problem I am having and still have some questions that maybe someone may have suggestions about.

Is there any schematic  for the water system on the 2006 Monaco Camelot PPD? Does the Swan valve B54--012-KTZ 3 way ball valve have the ability to operate in the same manner as the original watts valve. The flow indicated on the valve is different. The installation of the hoses was the same but the lever is pointed downward.

I am planning to order the check valve to see if that will solve the issue.

Another concern is that when I use the onboard pump and the shore supply water, the holding tank level increases. Only since installing the new Swan Valve.

The water supply pressure is about a consistant 45lbs to 48lbs.

I got the replacement from Swan, models prior to 2009, B54-021-KTZ 3 Way ball valve. After installing ( took about 3 hours) It seemed to be okay until I disconnected the supply source to the coach. The Swan valve will fill the on board tank, but when I use the onboard water pump, the water goes out of the shore line hose under pressure. If I move the fill valve lever, the only direction it allows to turn it stops water flow. also when in that position the holding tank water gravity drain out of the hose.

I also see that my old valve has  an "L" flow indicated and the new one does not. I think I got the wrong Valve.

Maybe there is something other than that but this is not the right opertaion.

I will look for a glass door shop and see what I can find. So far ,nothing has been found that will work as a replacement part.

It seems that the major retailers like Home Depot, and Lowe's have reduced the availability of more personalized services. 

I would remove the cover and check the circuit board for signs of a short circuit.

Looking to replace the wipe molding on the shower door bottom. Have found several of them but all are the wrong material and too thick and too firm. The molding is very limber and must have enough flex to allow the door to close. All I have seen just jam the door when closing.

Any ideas or known parts supply would be appreciated. Tried Lowe's and Home Depot 

I have had success getting my needs from Shockwarehouse.com

Looking for anyone that has information about what to look for when determining a water leak from the antenna crank.

I have reviewed the parts blow up pictures and a video about replacing the shaft. I do not know which shaft I have yet so I would order one as it should have a shaft seal included.

I can determine that easy enough, does anyone know of other seals I may need? I would take it apart but the heavy rains and no breaks in the weather long enough do alot up there. Also and hints on process to reseal the mounting? I plan to use a heat gun when I get to that part. Need to remove the old sealant.

Looked for the topic on search but nothing there.

We do live full time and need to fix it in a timely manner. Not too many days with decent weather lately.

Thanks!!

1 minute ago, brokenarrow1244 said:

Looking for anyone that has information about what to look for when determining a water leak from the antenna crank.

I have reviewed the parts blow up pictures and a video about replacing the shaft. I do not know which shaft I have yet so I would order one as it should have a shaft seal included.

I can determine that easy enough, does anyone know of other seals I may need? I would take it apart but the heavy rains and no breaks in the weather long enough do alot up there. Also and hints on process to reseal the mounting? I plan to use a heat gun when I get to that part. Need to remove the old sealant.

Looked for the topic on search but nothing there.

We do live full time and need to fix it in a timely manner. Not too many days with decent weather lately.

Thanks!!

Forgot to mention it is a Winegard Sensar manual antenna.

it is a good opportunity to be sure the condensation drains are clean and open. you have easy access to the collection area while doing the cleaning.

Just a couple of ideas. I know there are circuit breakers on my  inverter, also check the salesman switch AND the relay. If you can by pass the relay it might at least remove it from possibles. 

I have had a lot of problems that caused me to get borderline with replacement, but,,, Take the time to get the components checked even if you need to buy meters to run the tests on the capacitors. Also do some deep reading from some of the specifics from this forum. It also is a good idea to pay close attention to the failure. I had the heat pump coming on and thought the a/c was blowing hot air. I found from the forum that the "failsafe " is to activate the heat so we do not freeze to death.  That was the failed part on the heat pump solenoid.

Since it does reset and operate, it has the ability to work.

Also, circuit breakers can get weak too.

good luck.

Not a pex connection as best I can see. It is really hard to see. I am hoping someone may have experienced replacing the hose. It attaches to the electric reel. The reel does have some pex fittings where the water supply leaves the reel. But it looks like a garden hose going to the reel.

Hose reel inside wet bay has a supply hose that I want to replace. It does not look like a standard water supply hose. Any insights and suggestions would be appreciated. Looks like a real adventure to get at the connections.

Just feel a need to mention to the forum and many of the helpful posting participants. Be cautious, and review your applications as I have found some of these that are recommending and identifying water valves hat are not safe for potable water. Some of them have warnings that are clear, others require a little more attention. 

I do not drink the water but do use it for cooking and want to be sure the  valves are lead free. 

So far Swan is the clear best choice and has specifically stated they do not have any product that is not safe for use as a drinking water supply component.

On 11/4/2022 at 11:13 AM, jacwjames said:

Mine is a Swan and it is mounted in it's own enclosure which then mounts on the wet bay panel.  When parked without hookups and with the water pump on it would drip out of the hose connector.  So I decided to take out/off and repair.  I bought the check valve that I provided a link to and I also bought a 3 way valve.  The 3 way valve was the right dimension but when I screwed the check valve into the threads it bottomed out.  No way would it seal so I put the new check valve in the old valve and that solved my problem. 

So getting the right valve is tricky, hopefully you will have better luck then me. 

Which model Swan Valve did you get?