brokenarrow1244

Just feel a need to mention to the forum and many of the helpful posting participants. Be cautious, and review your applications as I have found some of these that are recommending and identifying water valves hat are not safe for potable water. Some of them have warnings that are clear, others require a little more attention. 

I do not drink the water but do use it for cooking and want to be sure the  valves are lead free. 

So far Swan is the clear best choice and has specifically stated they do not have any product that is not safe for use as a drinking water supply component.

On 11/4/2022 at 11:13 AM, jacwjames said:

Mine is a Swan and it is mounted in it's own enclosure which then mounts on the wet bay panel.  When parked without hookups and with the water pump on it would drip out of the hose connector.  So I decided to take out/off and repair.  I bought the check valve that I provided a link to and I also bought a 3 way valve.  The 3 way valve was the right dimension but when I screwed the check valve into the threads it bottomed out.  No way would it seal so I put the new check valve in the old valve and that solved my problem. 

So getting the right valve is tricky, hopefully you will have better luck then me. 

Which model Swan Valve did you get?

Still looking for the best fit. Glad it is not urgent.

I thought I had a perfect fit part, ordered it waited 10 days and it arrived, only to have a warning label "do not use for potable water".  I do not drink any of the water but I do use it to cook.  So I am on the hunt again. Also, the company rep made a comment they do not make parts for motorhomes. It is just plumbing... just someone looking to get done with that contact. Not good service in my book.

Apollo was the brand and Bath1 was the provider for the part, advertised through Walmart.

I will up date later,..

Just an up date for now. Yes there are tons of valves to look at and in looking it really becomes a challenge to try to determine if I will find a valve that will fit in the same place and mount properly, and possibly operate the same as the original. Lots of them have levers the rotate to the rt. not many to the left, also mounting is a challenge.

I know I can make something work and find a valve to get the job done. But I want it to look and operate the same as the original... if possible. I ordered a valve and if it will work I will update  after I get it. Shipping is about another week away. THANK YOU you guys are awesome.

I have A Watts  0543 fill valve has started to fail full shut off. In that it continues to allow water to fill the on board tank when connected to city water.  Watts has resoponded that it was made for RV mfg. and is no longer available and no replacement is available. My question is if anyone has had to replace this and what did you use. I do have a recommendation from Dr4Film, thank you! It looks nice, but I would really like to use the existing configuration if at all possible. Just throwing it out there to see if anyone has a good parts supplier.

The outside green lever allows you to fill the on-board water tank while connected to the city water supply. The problem I have been having is that it is not shutting off completely.

The valve seems to allow a very small amount of water to leak through. Once the tank is full, it starts spilling out. I have been using the on-board water as a supply to lower the level and avoid the spillage and that is okay for a while. I suspect like many other things, it can get worse.

I have had no success locating a replacement. I took it off to get a better idea of what I need since searching does not turn up a replacement part that matches.

The valve is shown as Watts, number 0543. the configuration allows hose attachments from on-board PEX lines without any major rerouting, so I would really like to keep that and have a replacement that matches. This is a real PIA to gain access and requires removal of most everything in the wet well to get access. I had to reassemble since I could find nothing at Local Home Depot.

I have decided to go ahead and replace the solenoid that is activated by the Salesmans switch, that is located by the front door. The switch was not the problem. I had previously replaced the solenoid back in 2013. The choice to replace the solenoid as opposed to simply doing the bypass was made because of the action the solenoid takes to protect other components when powering back up. If it fails again, I will most likely do the bypass, and see how that works for me. I have also had a thought to make mention for other people. I have noticed that I had some flickering at times from my interior lamps, like at the kitchen sink area. That has stopped with the replacement of the solenoid.

I again cannot thank you enough for the help and input from the forum. You are my most valuable asset in owning my Monaco. So much information  and knowledge has been provided. Thank you!

I do have one other question in mind, and doubt anyone has any real answer. I have had horrible thoughts about the Norcold refrigerator having a fire, and now the IOTA has come in to my mind and will be replacing. How do the fire occurrences compare between these components?

Which one has the worst track record?

just want to say thank you. Lots of areas to investigate. Intend to replace the IOTA after the heat wave. Not due to failure or malfunction, it looks and performs okay but I no longer trust it.

The salesman switch seems to be the issue ....today. It seems the problems are endless. Nice to have the forum go to. I guess we just accept the failure of the component, I look for what made it happen. I guess the solenoid just became tired of work.  Again thank you!! The long read has a lot of clues in it and lends to understanding the interaction of the systems. Better to have more knowledge than not enough.

Maybe to be more clear.

I replaced my 4 batteries. I just used the Salesman Switch when I was looking for the reason I lost 12v power.

It allowed me to reset power.

I suspect the solenoid valve may be a problem, I have previously replaced it Feb 2013.

Are my batteries being weak a cause for the solenoid valve to require

 a reset from the salesman switch?

Battery switch on dash ( Salesman Switch) allowed me to reset. Checked battery and charger on Intellitec panel. Made certain charger was on. Really cranking at 80 amps and took about 30 minutes to get back to 4 amps and absorb charge. My batteries checked okay but not full charge, decided to replace them and I did. After installation they too really pulled a charge and got up to normal. However, during the process I had the interior light switch use repeat the problem of killing the 12 volt supply. I did a reset at the dash switch and they came back on. This system causes many other areas of malfunction. A/C stops working, Intellitec panel does not read out correctly. After so many problems it becomes a concern about finding a root cause. So... I guess my questions are, Is it a common problem for the  Salesman switch to just shut down 12v supply if the batteries are weak? Any other area to investigate for that issue? Should I replace the switch again?  The last time it had the same symptoms , Flickering lights when other switches were used, and then lost 12v power. I replaced Batteries and has been fine 30 months. I am a full time user so I only use the door switch by accident. Thanks in advance.

why not post some pictures of the job, sounds very interesting and a great solution for backorder parts situations.

Thank you, lots of very valuable information there. It is a long read.

I have been reviewing the install instructions and configuration of wiring. Interesting that none of the instructions I can locate identify proper torque/ or required torque readings. They surely identify the need for proper installation of the LPT50BRD.

I looked into another brand WFCO T57. That one does specify 35inch lbs of torque. I believe most of the information I have reviewed lends to apply 45 inch lbs on Periodic Maintenence . Some are simply saying as tight as you can. My training and background cause me to seek specific values of torque.

Any comments or suggestions or source to see it printed out?

Looking at the available products that all carry the basic same Model # LPT50BRD.

Trying to determine what is the difference in ESCO and Elkhart. I can find some information that specifically states dc coils and some that does not even mention the coils.

I believe the coils are important as to quiet operation. Also big differences in pricing, up to 100.00 variation for the same item!!

What are your thoughts? Anything to avoid?

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

EDIT

I lost my home pump this morning and started this response way earlier.  I just sat down to take a break and posted this.  I had NOT realized that Frank McElroy, whom I was discussing this with had done a premptive post....so, hopefully, we are saying the same thing....

Lori G and ALL OTHERS...

NOW....we are really getting interesting....and also DEEP.  There has been a LOT of comments made by a LOT of people with good electrical trouble shooting skills some WAY MORE ADVANCED than mine.

From the TOP.  The general "consensus" is that Monaco Cheated and did not run thermostat wires to the EMS.  I've looked at mine a few times, but it never acted up.  I have looked at my prints....as well as others and I BELIEVE that I have seen a print where Monaco actually DID have the AC Power going to the EMS thermostat loads.  NOW even that is getting FUZZY.  @Martinvz posted this earlier.....

About a year ago I had to replace the Intellitec board and was informed by the tech I was working with that the a/c relays are normally closed so that the thermostat makes the on/off decision until the board needs to do load shedding. All the relays for the other breakers would be normally open until a load is applied. In our case it was a a/c relay that failed. 

The above is correct...Monaco did NOT follow the recommended or required wiring.  The theory, postulated by many unhappy folks with EMS issues was....This will WORK for at least a year....no WARRANTY.  I talked to another wizard this morning and he cleared up a few facts....so this is WHY we have issues.

Look at the PRINT.  Intellitec says in the instruction manual to control the load shedding by the Thermostat low voltage wiring.  That is the terminals on the RIGHT....and are rated at 1A @ 24 VDC.  I THOUGHT that Monaco put the 120 AC there.  NOPE.  They used the four relays on the left.  NOW....the board says 15 Amp i HP rated.  I was told, but have not verified...but I trust the source, that the relays are NOT FLA (Full Load Amperage) rated for 15 Amps.  A motor starting....pulling the amps for the AC has a high "Inductive" or starting load....A resistance load like a dryer or water heater is just that....what the plate says.

The circuit breakers on the AC's are 20A, I believe.  When the AC first starts up, if you have an HW50C, you will see upwards of 17 -18 Amps.  Therefore these relays are "SWITCHING" on or OFF FLA power that is too high (too much current) for the relays.  I also looked at my Owner's manual and also the prints. 

Mine will load shed in the following order Water Heater (Aqua Hot); Rear AC; Washer/Dryer and Front AC. That means that Monaco labeled or chose to only do FOUR loads to shed.  Relays 5 and 6 are the low voltage AC thermostat....so mine, like everyone else....has the 20 amp breaker protected AC's on the AC relays....and NOT the DC Thermostats. 

It would have taken a little more wire to run the control wires properly.  NOW....to really add some fuel to this flame.....The Duotherm/Penguin AC's actually HAD a load shedding 12 VDC option.  That COULD have been wired or used with the Intellitec EMS.  It wasn't....

SO....that is what I now understand....and it has taken many years to fully get the whole, sordid story....and to understand the circuitry and be able to explain it.

Having SAID THAT....I have NO IDEA why all the breakers need to be ON.  Many folks without a Washer/Dryer have reported turning OFF the NOT USED breaker will make the EMS get hostile and go into a funk.  SO, there is still one mystery...but there is a confirmed or verified Cause and Effect relationship.

IN A WORD.....YES.  Even with fully tightened lugs, it has been know to fail and have high resistance.  Scroll on page 1 to Chris Throgmartin's write up from his shop.  This NEEDS TO BE REPLACED.  It is a human safety issue....as well as a fire issue.....DO NOT USE IT ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY....

There are several writeup and threads on changing it out and recommendations.

Since reading a lot of information, i am curious which brand and model is the most suitable  to replace the Iota 50? I have watched some videos that select the ESCO LPT50BRD 50 amp as THE choice of replacements for Monaco Coach. They mention others are available and will work. The  RV Upgrade store will list the IOTA and replace it with the ESCO as it is NLA.  Thank you again, you guys are simply the best!

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Just to clarify.  After you did all the PM and replaced the breaker, and had ALL the breakers in the ON position...your EMS panel did NOT show the Gen Set light on....like in your picture.  See my response to Myron as he pointed out a flaw in a post....then I went back and read the manual....and YES, when the Gen Set is ON....there is a 12 VDC signal to the EMS....which is supposed to light the Gen Set light...and then you got the amps or load from the neutral. That load will vary depending on what is cycling on. If you did all that and then switched or killed shore...and when to Genny and only ran one AC....as a test.  You would see the Gen Set light ON and probably 15 amps or so....assuming that the Inverter was not charging the batteries and there were no other AC load.

Please clarify if you get a chance.

Thanks...

The PM did include removal of the plug in connectors on the underside of the circuit board, also , all were switched on, after replacement of the breakerl were switched on. Then I went to the shore plug and connected. The panel came on and showed 50 amp service all indicators came on one by one up the ladder. I then fired the gen set and it stabilized, changed over and display was GEN and lights came on up the ladder and it displayed the current draw on the readout. I did not run the a/c  with the gen set yet.  The problem prior to this was that it was not showing it had powered up those circuits. That is when I checked the board and heard the clicking relay.

My prior board may have had the similar issue but I did not have the knowledge then that I do now.  It just melted and burned up. I think knowing more about the system helped me avoid another melt down of the board. It was while running the a/c all day and temps were 105 at peak.

Most of the posts I read about this type of problem seem to be during really hot weather and with the air on.  I have some pictures of the old board I sent in a while back.

I am not Tom but will share my findings. Mine is located in the under storage behind a sliding dark plastic wall. The water heater is on the driver side at the end of that area, and my inverter is mounted to the floor.  My slide out drawer storage is in the compartment just forward of the door to this area.

I get in on the passenger side of the coach to get access to it. It is mounted on the wall and very hard to remove the cover.

Hope that helps, but I have read of a variety of areas where  the put them. I read the choice areas are usually near the reel for power cable storage, One guy was getting a replacement done in a video left rear storage area.

I have Monaco Camelot 2006 PPD.

I have 2 slides on drivers' side.

WOW,  mixed feelings of gratitude and relief. You all have helped me a lot. THANK YOU!! 

To update I will let you know that  I have a new Intellitec board coming ( second time to fail), I have thoroughly checked every accessible connector for wiring at my main panel and transfer switch. I replaced the 20 amp breaker for the front a/c**** ( this one did not properly reset and though it would go over to on, it was not on supplying power. I also did a reset of the intellitec board. That breaker was the main problem I found. I will move ahead on a replacement for the transfer switch also. But, when checking there is no evidence of any heat build up, There were not even slightly loose connectors. wire ends and coloration looked almost fresh.

I also tested the change over from shore power to gen set... all okay.

I really think the intellitec system was looking for the main board to be in order to proceed with power up. I think that as a deduction or as hind sight from where I am. 

I have the next few days of 104+ temperatures to really give everything a change to screw up again. Lots of steps to take but worth the journey. I learned a lot from you today.

9 minutes ago, JohnC3 said:

Check that you have both legs coming in. Similar happened to me and it was my its. One relay (leg) was melted, so the ems thought it was 30a.

Could be pedestal, power cord( usually a connector), power cord reel or ITS. Could also be loose connections in main panel.

Hope it helps.

sorry my mind is running crazy  with this, what is the ITS?

I have very confusing symptoms.

VERY Hot outside, over 100, Both a/c were working. Front stopped cooling and think it went to heatpump all by itself as that was on the display. Also my panel only showed 30 amp service. I started my genset . it did not light up all the circuits. I went to the fuse panel and the circuit board was making a clicking sound at intervals. I then went back to shut down the genset and power from shore supply. all lighted up but still only 30 amp. Also the front a/c still does not work. it seems that I have no power to the a/c but is it the intellitec board that is clicking or other area. The lack of change over with the genset  is confusing. Many 110 circuits are operating but the panel lights do not display green indicators.

I had the problem of switching from gen set to shore power a few years ago. I lost my front ac and found the circuit board was fried, had to replace it. there was no power to the a/c unit, first place to look was circuits. no fuse blown, removed the panel and found crispy sparking things happening on the board. 

I only have 2 units, very similar to yours I have a 2006 Camelot. Most recent repairs to ac cause me to recommend to check out the components with a good multimeter. I know when it is really hot it is nearly impossible to go up there and work in the heat and sun. Last heat wave caused me to wait for days for a  little overcast to get up there. Good Luck I have a 2006 Monaco, 40 foot unit PDD  cummins ISL, with 2 a/c units model 630035.321.

1200lrimss I have a 2006 Monaco Camelot. My 1st recall parts were installed 2011. those failed in a few months and were then replaced with newer parts.

I agree for the most part about use after it shuts down and having that red light on. However, I had the recall performed and several months later had the red light on and was just getting ready to make a trip. Still had electrical connection. I went to my dealer and they tested the recall device and found I needed another device. Norcold supplied the device through the dealership and they installed it. I had no more issues with it. BUT the cooling unit failed a few years later and I had the amish unit installed and so far it is doing ok.  I had some sleepless nights over that refrigerator, hard to trust it. I remember they needed some date code off the original recall device, and made me think there were some of them that failed. But required me to have the dealer check it.

I have something unusual happening, but have an unusual situation as well. My 50 amp Smart EMS had a display showing I had a 30 amp service. I am connected to a 50 amp service. However, my front A/C /Heat pump penguin unit has a malfunction and I turned off the breaker to that a/c. It is too hot outside to work on it now. It just cycled on day and started blowing hot air. 

 I did go up and check the unit for anything obvious and made sure the capacitors were discharged after cutting off power t that unit.  After I noticed the 30 amp indicator I turned the breaker back on, it now shows 50 amp service.

When I flipped the a/c  breaker on the display was like the power  was restarting . Green lites  coming on from the bottom to top sequentially showing everything coming on line. I have only been in a 30 amp park once , it did not have the 50 amp plug in. Maybe I was only getting 30 amp service from the source or do I need to look for a new problem?

WOW, I just read all the entries and comments and you are the 1st and only one to label it "dumbass mistake" something hiding in there... But remember if nothing else, the driver can always be used as a bad example. Nothing is worthless, and it can always be worse. Thankfully they survived. Would be nice to know the after story to the occurrence.

After reading and seeing this it causes many emotions to surface. Sorry that it happened. What in the world would let you attempt to go down that road?

Some readers comments are scary as well, " understanding confusion "!! You are next! My trip planner has basic entry and one is for height , it would not even allow me to  even plan a trip on that road. I would question how the owner made out with insurance coverage. Looks like self imposed destruction to me  How much larger could the sign have been made. A lot of questions enter my mind and many of them are about the person driving and how the driver got in that mess. It is haunting to think we may share the road.