Patrick

First of all, thank you to everyone for your suggestions. Your support is tremendous. 
 

I crawled under again and checked all the wiring on the starter. I found a thin wire that was detached from a round eye connector that was bolted on with a small hex nut. The thin wire was shielded by a small corrugated hose.  Replaced the eyelet connection and viola. The starter was back in business. 
 

Not sure how the mechanic I had look at it missed the disconnected wire. 
 

Again, thank you everyone!

6 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Give the starter a good rap with a hammer to see if it will turn over. Also check the connections at the starter to make sure they are clean and tight.

Yup. Rapped it good already. You can hear the solenoid click when you activate the switch. 

1 minute ago, Benjamin said:

If it was a car, pickup or tractor, I'd suspect the starter.  On a motorhome, my first suspect is the motorhome wiring.  If you can find the wiring on the starter solenoid, and rig a test wire to hot wire it from a safe distance, that will cut the problem in half by telling us if it's the starter not working, or the wiring not supplying the start signal voltage. 

I can hear the solenoid in the left hand engine cabinet click when I activate either switch. 

We drove from San Diego to Lost Hills, pulled into Pilot for fuel and now the motorhome will not start. Dash lights on but neither front or rear starter switches work. 
 

Mechanic says must be the starter. 
 

Help please.  

I have used SEM Classic Coat products with good success. 

I used all the techniques suggested: vise grips, flat metal strip, crowbar wrapped around carpet for leverage and I got it all out. Thanks again everyone. 
 

Super impressed again with Monaco. These 21 year old floors look almost new. 

Thank you everyone for their very helpful responses!

Ok, update. Need someone who knows how these slides work to please comment. If there is a link anywhere to a drawing of the slide mechanisms that would be terrific.

So I slid a metal L square between the carpet and the slide on the inside of the coach when the slide was out. I think I located two long rollers under the carpeted area of the slide.  When I retract the slide and feel around with the metal square I can no longer reach the rollers under the slide. This leads me to believe that the rollers are fixed in place to the coach and not the slide. I alway thought the roller were on the slide. 
 

Have I got this correct? The slide is affixed to the coach and the slide rolls over it?

The carpet in my 2002 Dynasty is dingy and I want to replace with hardwood or LVP. What is holding me back is what to do about the carpet that extends under the passenger side slide. 
 

I cannot get about 1 foot of the carpet under the slide out. I am thinking of cutting the carpet at the edge of the slide when extended and laying the new flooring up to the edge of the old carpet. 
 

My concern is that the old carpet might get rolled back by the slide roller as the slide moves in and out and create an obstruction. 
 

Has anyone dealt with this?

What did you do?

Where the heck is the slide roller located?

Pics of the slide I’m talking about. 

Never mind, I think it was just a bad connection with the park outlet. I swapped to a 30 amp adapter and the 30 amp plug and voila, power readings on all 4 gauges. Tried the 50 amp again and everything is fine. I noticed that the plug to outlet connection was not great due to where the 50 amp outlet was located and the cord plug tended to want to slip out. If it happens again I know where to look. 
 

Strange the way this manifested itself. I’m not an electrician but I think that only one of the two 110 volt lines was making a connection. 

We are out on a short trip and suddenly we have no AC power from the outlets in the rear half of our coach. At the same time, only the lower set of Amp Meter and Volt Meter are showing a reading. Normally when either plugged in to 30 amp or 50 amp service or generating power, there is a reading on all 4 gauges. The AC outlets in the front half of the coach work. 
 

When I cycle the main 50 amp breaker on the AC fuse box I get power to the rear AC power outlets for a couple of seconds only. The breaker does not trip, but the power to the outlets stops after a second or two. I also cycled the salesman’s switch twice. Reset the breaker on the park AC post. 
 

Everything worked fine this morning before we left.

Suggestions?

I would like to replace the non-slide carpet in my 3-slide, 2002 Dynasty Baroness.  I have some 4 mm vinyl plank flooring I would like to use. 

I have a few questions I’d like some help with from those who are experienced:

1. Do I have to adjust the slide rollers after replacing the flooring and how do I do that?

2. Do I have to worry about the slide rollers marking the new flooring?

Thanks in advance!

On 6/27/2023 at 6:19 PM, 96 EVO said:

Just spent a couple of weeks on the island!

One in Vic, one in Parksville. Watched the fire near Port Alberni grow larger each day!

Why they don't hit these fires hard while they are small is beyond me!

Ironic the largest water bombers ever built used to park on a lake, probably less than 10mi from that fire.

I live in Nanoose Bay, right by Parksville. 
 

Yes, we miss our Mars water bombers. 

57 minutes ago, djlgnd said:

realy could use these to remove my unit in my 2003 Monaco

thank you for these helps me out greatly

Glad these can help.  I'm on the Island. You?

1 hour ago, Michael Powell said:

Patrick Thanks for thr PDF... Yous files gives me the ability to save $7 to $9 k I. DIY files you did a great job.  How hard was it to get out of the bay...I have been told that's a job. Again greatly appreciate the information you have provided to me and the group...

Thanks Again

Michael Powell

God Bless...

Michael,

it’s a tedious job overall but not as difficult as it looks. Once all the wires, hoses and brackets are disconnected it isn’t too hard to pry it over the ledge and slide out into the adjacent bay. I did it easily by myself. Needed help lifting it in and out. 
 

good luck!

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Does Carrillo want your tank as a core charge, or, is he building these tanks from scratch?

The replacement tank is brand new and a better design with the copper coils internal to the tank. 

2 hours ago, sg47619 said:

Thank you so much, how do I get them to open on my apple IPad?

Click on the pdf. Accept the download. Wait for it to download. Then click on the down arrow top right of Safari to see the downloaded pdf and then click on it to open. 

1 hour ago, Michael Powell said:

How much was the tank replacement fro  Aqus Hot??

The tank was just under $4000 plus shipping. Contact John Carrillo for a quote. 

I recently had to replace the AquaHot AHE-100-01S tank in my 2002 Dynasty.  The copper fresh water coils had developed a leak.  I had noticed a small amount of water collecting in the service bay for some time.  Eventually the leak increased and I had to turn off the water pump when water was not needed as it would cycle continuously to maintain pressure and a puddle formed below the AquaHot.

I owe a tremendous amount of thanks to Vito Adragna for all of his help with this project.  He patiently answered my emails and text messages.  Without his help I would have been lost.  I also want to thank John and Hanna Carrillo from HeatMyRV.com for their help and the replacement tank.  John is busy but he did return calls and text messages when I needed him.  Fortunately for us replacement tanks are available.

I could not find any instructions on this procedure, so I have attached my notes and photos so that it might help someone else.  Use at your own risk!  

The filling and pressurizing procedures are different from the manual with the new non-pressurized tank.  It worked quite well.  Took me about 16 gallons to fill the system.

AQUAHOT REMOVAL.pdf AQUAHOT SKID ASSEMBLY.pdf AquaHot Skid Disassembly.pdf

All my interior outlets and electrical systems work however the outlets in the storage bays below do not. What should I be looking at to get them to work?

2002 Dynasty Baroness

1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

I use a flat screwdriver to pry one side of the metal bracket a little to the side and pull that controller side out. You'll see how they have it secured from just sliding out that way.

Great! Many thanks!

12 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Yes, of course, that is too easy with any basic soldering kit.

Thanks for letting me know! I can handle that.
 

One question, how is the control box secured to the diesel burner? I’ve tried to pull mine off but haven’t been successful. Does it just slide off?

16 hours ago, Ivan K said:

With my 100 series AH and your symptoms, I would have a good look at the controller connectors and then the controller itself. That part can get very hot and relays inside the box have a tendency to unsolder themselves and cause temperature dependent unpredictable connection issues. One of them controls the motor. If the motor does not start at all when it should, nothing else happens and the diesel system shuts down within a short time when it does not detect flame at the end of start up sequence. Note that the fuel delivery, spark and flame detection happens way after the motor first clears the chamber and pressurize fuel. Spark may be there but no fuel if the motor never started.The fact that the light goes out makes me believe that sequence has started, meaning the low temp thermostat worked. I had that happen myself. I don't have a reset button or the external control board so it could be different with yours.

 

 

Thank you for your response. Did you resolder the connections yourself?

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Trying to sort through this.  The electric works fine....  The engine heats fine.  NOW, what I need to understand is that when you say "AquaHot", you are really talking about the DIESEL burner for the AquaHot.  If that is correct, then MY advice would be as follows.

FIRST....DO check the connections on the board....maybe it is there....never hurts to do an Electrical PM.

SECOND..... When you say it starts UP, have you gone to the exhaust pipe and FELT the air.  Are you getting HOT air coming out our just cold air....or any air?  Mine was coming on....but not really "Doing anything".  Everything "sounded great", except there was NOT really any ignition or burner working.  The Diesel light WILL go out when that happens.  When was the LAST time you had the AquaHot burner serviced or did it yourself.  If it has been over 2 years.....ODDS ARE...the burner nozzle has varnished up.  That is a COMMON occurrence.  I actually changed the filter....which is the least likely cause....unless you have really had some crappy diesel or some algae in the tank. Once I had it serviced by a competent tech....it has worked like a champ.  Don't go chasing ghosts when there is a 800 pound monster in the room....LOL.

I can tell you that IF you call AH and say...I ain't got no DIESEL burner....SERVICE the bliniin' thing is their first response.  SO....VERIFY that you are REALLY getting the Diesel ON from COLD and there is HOT air coming out and DIESEL fumes....

If you need service, use the AH site to find a "CERTIFIED" service center.  That is your best bet....assuming you do not do your own servicing...

Keep up posted....

I will check the connections when I can get into the bay. 
 

Yes, I am talking about the diesel burner. When everything has sat cold overnight, ie. Electric heater off, rv motor off, I turn on the Aquahot switch and the diesel burner fires up right away. Exhaust is hot, very minor puff of smoke on startup, AquaHot fluid heats up, creates hot domestic water and furnace heater warms up the rv. It seems the AquaHot heats up until the high temp set point is reached and then the burner shuts off, AquaHot switch light stays on. Once the AquaHot fluid cools off, the diesel burner attempts to restart but burner fan does not come on and the AquaHot turns itself off after several seconds and the AquaHot switch light turns off. 
 

I have recently serviced the diesel burner with a new nozzle, fuel filter, cleaned combustion chamber, cleaned photocell, polished reflector ring, re-gapped ignition tips. I have the service manual and have tested the continuity across the high temp thermostat which is good   

There hasn’t been anyone who works on AquaHots anywhere near me but we are headed to San Diego. I like to fix things myself because then I can learn for next time. 
 

Appreciate your help. 

35 minutes ago, Paul Busch said:

Tom thanks! I really can’t say enough good about William. I was without hot water for 2week for no reason that I could find. I had bought all new guts last fall from John Carrillo and every thing was working fine then NOT. Every time I tried to figure it out it would start working again. I rewired all my connections , changer relays, and stretched my head. I had electric again for some reason but with cold coming I installed a new filter and nozzle and everything quit working. I was throwing parts at it from aquahot and John Carrillo. Every time I tried to contact some one for help they said call back or they would call me and it never happened. Cold was coming to southern WI and I was desperate. I was heating freezing weather with 6 small electric heaters and learning to think 62 was livable with enough cloths.😜 I found Lexington Engineering web page where they will test controller boxes, control panels and Webasco burners. I emailed them and they responded with GIVE US A CALL WITH THEIR NUMBER AT 11pm at night. I did call the next day and left a message. Same O Same O right. Bill called me an hour later and spent an hour on the phone on a Saturday  helping me trouble shoot. We determined it was the controller box on the webasco diesel burner and I ordered and paid for a rebuilt one. Turns out my old box was good and I needed the control board. He sent me a rebuilt board and my old box back and didn’t charge me for anything and will take his box back and settle up when it gets warm enough to make the changes. Meantime I have the electric hot wired and diesel burner working when I need it to get more heat through this last couple weeks of sub zero weather with 30mph winds. I couldn’t use any more heaters was blowing my 50amp hookup. For sure I would have lost my wet bay and had frozen Aqua hot. You can see why I love these guys and can’t say enough good about them. WHO TALKS YOU THROUGH TROUBLE SHOOTING FOR 3 HOURS ON A SUNDAY? WILLIAM BORIE THATS WHO.

Sorry for the long post but you see why I love these guys😃 paulb

 

Thanks for tip. I will contact them. 

1 hour ago, Old Dog said:

Are you running out of hot water or not heating the coach the way you want at any point?

We can use the heat pumps for heating but not able to use the furnace and not able to heat the bays. Need to use the electric water heat to provide hot water which is only available when we are plugged in

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

KISS.  NEVER trust Monaco to make a lifetime hard wired connection....

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f240/aqua-hot-not-restarting-issue-found-195520.html

I would follow the logic of the above.  Past that....call AH.  They do a great job of over the phone trouble shooting.  

I’ll look at that when I can access the panel. 

My AquaHot starts ups immediately when everything is cold. Runs a cycle but rarely restarts once the system is warm. If I’ve run the engine up to temp or if the electric water heater has been running, the AquaHot will not start up. The AquaHot switch light goes off quickly after being turned on and the burner fan does not start up. 
 

I initially thought that the high temperature thermostat was not working, but I checked the continuity on it and that’s fine. I haven’t tried to jumper the low temperature thermostat yet but that’s on my list.  
 

Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should try next next? We are on our way to our final destination in San Diego and the storage bay is packed with gear but once we get to San Diego I’ll be able to access the AquaHot again. 
 

Thanks for your input!