Patrick

Does anyone have the color codes for a 2002 Dynasty Baroness with the Almond Color scheme? Or where can I find them? I looked under the driver’s seat but the only label there is for the chair. 

I have quite a bit of clear coat peeling on the roof of my MH. I would like to repair the clear coat but will have to respray the base color in order to get a good repair.

All help is appreciated. 
 

Thanks to the help of the forum, I was able to resolve my problem with Furnace not showing up on the Living/Kitchen area Comfort Control. I got up on the roof this morning and opened up the control box on the front AC.  Sure enough, the DIP switch for Furnace was not activated. When the Dometic AC unit was replaced by the PO the installer did not set the DIP switch correctly. Turned on the DIP switch for Furnace and voila, Furnace now shows up and starts up on the Living/Kitchen Comfort Control. 
 

Many thanks for all who replied! I would not have been able to figure this out on my own. 
 

On 8/2/2021 at 10:47 AM, Timaz996 said:

This video will show you where the board in located on the A/C. Just make sure the furnace dip switch is on. It's only four screws to take the top off the A/C.

 

Thanks to your help I was able to resolve my problem with Furnace not showing up on the Living/Kitchen area Comfort Control. I got up on the roof this morning and opened up the control box on the front AC.  Sure enough, the DIP switch for Furnace was not activated. When the Dometic AC unit was replaced by the PO the installer did not set the DIP switch correctly. Turned on the DIP switch for Furnace and voila, Furnace now shows up and starts up on the Living/Kitchen Comfort Control. 
 

Many thanks for your help! I would not have been able to figure this out on my own. 

56 minutes ago, ok-rver said:

Wondering if you figured out you power issue?

Mike

Everything is working but I’m not sure exactly what the problem was. 

Ok. It turns out that both bulbs were burnt out. Easy fix. 
 

Thank you to everyone for their help. I learned a lot for future reference. 

1 hour ago, hitechpete said:

Your aquahot furnace will only be controlled by one thermostat, as you mentioned earlier, it seems to be controlled by the bedroom thermostat which has  2 zones available. Zone 1 will control 1 A/C unit, zone 2 will control a further A/C unit plus the furnace. The second thermostat will control a 3rd A/C.

Thanks. The bedroom thermostat does seem to be the master control unit. The other thermostat will not function unless I set it first on the bedroom one. 
 

When I set the bedroom unit on Furnace, the furnace comes on and blows warm air through the bedroom and bathroom floor vents, but not those in the main living area. I’d obviously like to get the warm air coming out the living area and kitchen vents also. 
 

Not sure what to do. I’ll be able To get up on the roof and look at the dip switches this weekend. 
 

Any advice is much appreciated. 

1 hour ago, Timaz996 said:

This video will show you where the board in located on the A/C. Just make sure the furnace dip switch is on. It's only four screws to take the top off the A/C.

 

Awesome! Thanks!

7 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

The earlier post shows the board that is located on the A/C unit on the roof. The back A/C must be correct as you have the furnace working. I highly doubt the front A/C would be wrong unless it has been changed out. If that is the case there will be a dip switch marked Furnace. Make sure it is on.

Thanks!  I am unable to access the roof at the moment but will check the DIP switches when I get home. The PO did say that they recently had the AC units serviced so maybe the settings are incorrect. 
 

thanks again!

13 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

Is this coach new to you? Has the furnace shown up before on the thermostat?

Yes it is. Just 10 days into ownership. 

17 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I understand that you swapped the thermostats. The dip switch settings are done on the board inside the ac unit itself. Depending on your model, it may look like or similar to the pic.

Thank you. Where do I access this control board? Up on the roof or inside?

28 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Since you may not know if the furnace ever worked, I would check the dip switch on control board up there to see if furnace is even selected.

I got Furnace to show up and work on the bedroom controller. I had to click on zone to select zone 2 and then it showed up. The bedroom controller shows zones 1 and 2.  The controller opposite the fridge only shows zone 1 and does not give me the Furnace option. 
 

I swapped the controllers around, putting the bedroom one in the main galley and vice versa. No difference. 
 

Where are the dip located and what should they be set at?

Thanks for your help!

47 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

I'm sorry, That's all I have. You can try cleaning the phone jack plugs on the thermostat but I doubt that is the problem. You might try resetting your Aqua Hot and then reset the thermostat again. 

AHE-100-02S Service Manual Rev. B 9-27-2011.pdf 5.18 MB · 1 download AHE-100-02S_Parts_Manuals_Rev_B.pdf 1.31 MB · 0 downloads AHE-100-02SAqua-HotOwnersManual05-02.pdf 298.89 kB · 1 download

Thanks for the manuals!

7 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

Turn off the power switch on the bottom of the thermostat. Hold both the top and bottom buttons in at the same time with one hand and turn it back on with the other. Let go of the buttons and you should see FF in the screen if it reset correctly. Then go through your modes to find the Furness. Let me know if that works.

Tim 

Thanks.  I did the reset procedure and still don’t have Furnace as an option. The other modes remain but the set points were reset to the defaults. 

1 minute ago, Timaz996 said:

Have you tried resetting your thermostats?

Tim

 

No, I haven’t. How does one go about doing that?

I do not get an option of Furnace on either of my two 5 button Comfort Controls. The modes I get are Off, Fan Only, Cool, Heat Pump. I have the optional Aqua Hot system which I turned on and am plugged in to 50 amp power. 
 

The Heat Pump option provides good heat but I’d like to get the furnace working for the upcoming cooler months. 
 

What am I missing? I’ve only had the rv for 10 days and I am on a steep learning curve. 

26 minutes ago, SigPIlot said:

I replaced the halogen bulb only with an LED replacement bulb IN 2017. Kept the original receptacle. The retrofit Samsung LED's plug right in. Think I bought about 80. Dimmable and come in ww, cool w, natural.  I used warm white on the wood surfaces and natural light everywhere else (galley, heads, closets). Had no problems so far. M4products. com. Good service, located in Chatsworth, CA.

Thanks!

3 minutes ago, KevinH said:

I replaced mine three years ago and purchased them on eBay I have had zero failures. As far as removing them. Most of them I was able to turn the glass and replace them. I hade four or five that I had to pry down with a putty knife and pull them out of the ceiling.They also work as a dimmer. I have three puck lights underneath the hall vanity that I forgot to replace I could never figure out why my middle air conditioner would run all the time during the day. Finally figured out that the three vanity lights we’re producing enough heat to kick on the air conditioner because the sensor for the air conditioner is underneath right by the vanity lights. Replaced them with LED never had that issue again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/YITAMOTOR-10-50X-G4-Base-Pin-Reading-Marine-Boat-LED-Light-Bulbs-Pure-Warm-White-/251621202168?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Thanks for the tip!

Awesome help! Thanks everyone!

51 minutes ago, Dennis H said:

A couple of suggestions. First is the ring around the puck light is held on by tabs. Turning the ring will line up the tabs and the ring can be removed. The glass then is held in place by three small plastic tabs. Use caution not to break any of those tabs. When you press the tabs, make sure you don't drop the glass cover on the floor and break it. Just do things slowly. Now here's another 'tip'. If the ring is difficult to turn it might be 'stuck' to the ceiling material. Using the edge of a credit card, insert it under the ring and move it completely around the ring, then try to twist it. Also pushing upward while turning may make it easier. The bulbs are G4 bi pin halogen. I dislike the heat from the lamps so I changed all mine out to LEDs. If you want to use a dimmer you'll have to buy LED dimmable bulbs or stay with the halogen. I kept the halogen over the sofa and desk and changed out all the overheads. The issue with LEDs is size. Most are too long to fit the puck lights. The ones I purchased are in the link below. They are a hair longer than the halogens but they fit easily into the pucks with no modification. No flicker, and they are really bright. I tried the warm light and didn't like them so I went with the daylight ones.....hope this helps....Dennis

https://www.amazon.com/Halogen-Equivalent-Daylight-Non-dimmable-CHEERBEE/dp/B089R8HKH7/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=1OSXDV7YL9BYR&dchild=1&keywords=g4+led+bulb+12v&qid=1627788872&sprefix=g4+%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOENPWDE1V1c0TEVWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDIzNTQ3M1VBRlFUNlZSSEg1NSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg0NTEzMkhUUlo1MU4zRllBTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Super useful help. Thank you!

1 hour ago, HarleyR said:

Grab the glass and turn counter clockwise. Use a jar lid grip cloth to get a decent grip if needed. The bulb is a halogen two prong. I replaced the 37 bulbs in mine with LEDs. 

Thanks!

How does one replace these pot lights? I have one that is not working. Do you pull off or unscrew the cover ring?

Anybody know what the replacement bulb is?

Absolute Newbie here. 

On 7/30/2021 at 4:30 PM, Mocephus said:

I had the same issue with burnt contacts at the SW board. With the help from others here, here is the solution I implemented:
 

 

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
 

I checked power to P1 on J12 connector and had 12 volts. Checked P2 on J12 with the headlight switch on and off. When the switch is on (pulled out) I have 12 volts at P2. That seems to be working as it should. Yes?
 

Then I checked power across one of the low beam connectors. Power was 12 volts, so I seem to have power to the headlights. 
 

Pulled the bulb on one side. It looks possibly burnt out. Could be just a bulb issue? 
 

I just got this rig last week and cannot confirm if the low beams worked when I bought it or not. 

Thanks all for your help. Much appreciated.
 

I checked power to P1 on J12 connector and had 12 volts. Checked P2 on J12 with the headlight switch on and off. When the switch is on (pulled out) I have 12 volts at P2. That seems to be working as it should. Yes?
 

Then I checked power across one of the low beam connectors. Power was 12 volts, so I seem to have power to the headlights. 
 

Pulled the bulb on one side. It looks possibly burnt out. Could be just a bulb issue? 
 

I just got this rig last week and cannot confirm if the low beams worked when I bought it or not. 

16 hours ago, ktloah said:

There was a discussion on this earlier.  Search for this in the electrical section. I had the same problem and it was where the wire harness plugs into the smart wheel control box in the front bay beneath the driver. J12 connector was burned. 

Thanks for the guidance. Here is what my J12 connector looks like. What did you do? Splice in a new one?

Hello,

My 2002 Monaco Dynasty has no low beam headlights when I pull on the headlight switch. When I switch to high beams, the high beams come on. The previous owner swapped the originals headlight housings to an aftermarket housing. Looks like an aftermarket 1997 BMW 5 series headlight housing.  

I have power on both screws at the low beam headlight fuse panel in the front drivers side electrical box.

Before I order a new set of headlight housings are there some other things I can check?

My apologies if this has been discussed previously. I tried searching articles and posts but couldn’t find what I needed. 

if you could steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it. 

I am thinking,that you are right. Power came back on after I cycled the battery the battery disconnect switches. 
 

I am going to try to locate the solenoid today. Mine unit is a 2002 Dynasty, similar age to yours.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Highly unlikely it was ONE fuse connection as there are multiple fuses there to protect separate devices that are all powered by the same 12 VDC. There is no ONE fuse that handles ALL of the 12 VDC.

It is more likely to be one or two of your 12 VDC House Battery solenoids that are starting to fail. Most people like myself have permanently bypassed those solenoids eliminated ANY possibility of ever being without house 12 VDC again. My coach only has one Battery Cut-Off Solenoid so it was an easy fix to bypass it whereas some coaches have two solenoids that control all of the 12 VDC.

Those solenoids are high failure devices. Trust me it WILL happen again and when it does it may be the middle of the night while having a torrential rain storm and you will be SOOL until the problem can be remedied.

Another possibility is that the Battery Disconnect Switch is failing. If that happens to be a BEP Switch I strongly suggest replacing BOTH the House & Chassis switches with a Guest, Blue Seas, Perko or a Cole-Hersee switch.

Photos of a failed BEP below.

  Where is this solenoid located. 

Ok. Everything works again. Must have been a bad connection with a fuse in the closet panel. I removed and replaced each one and now the lights, AC and fans work again. 
 

whew!

Yesterday, my first day with my 2002 Monaco Dynasty Baroness, all the interior lights and overhead fans worked fine. I turned off the batteries last night and on again this morning.  Now none of the interior lights work. There is no display on the AC Comfort Control 5 button controllers and the overhead fans don’t work. Everything else works. The step, step cover, shades, awning, microwave, plugins and tv work. I should mention that I am not plugged in to shore power. Inverter is on, batteries now at 93% up from 82% after running the generator.  I turned off the inverter and batteries and started them all up again  

The battery cutoff switch and the Lights switch beside the entry door are On. I checked the Lights switch and jumpered it with no change. I cannot measure any current across it. 
 

No breakers are tripped. I can’t see any burnt out fuses. 
 

I am stumped. Looking for help! Thanks.