Chuck H

Thanks Richard for the pics. Great idea for a replacement heater,  looks smaller too.

Richard,                                                           Thank you for your reply!      Why and where did you install a relay? I'm electronically challenged so please bare with me.

I'm pretty sure my Back Seat Heater Plus in the wet bay gave up the ghost because it won't come on via normal operating procedures. I tried using a jumper wire at the snap disc to check if the heater would come on and that didn't work. The switch on the left that controls heat and fan operation is really hard to move. When turning the thermostat knob I can hear a clicking noise which is the same noise I heard when bypassing the snap disc with a jumper wire. My question is does the same snap disc operate both the bay heater and the tank heating pads simultaneously? The on off switch inside at the control panel  comes on but not the light next to it. Considering using thermostatically controlled light bulbs. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!!!

1 hour ago, Chuck Hefti said:

I'm pretty sure my Back Seat Heater Plus in the wet bay gave up the ghost because it won't come on via normal operating procedures. I tried using a jumper wire at the snap disc to check if the heater would come on and that didn't work. The switch on the left that controls heat and fan operation is really hard to move. When turning the thermostat knob I can hear a clicking noise which is the same noise I heard when bypassing the snap disc with a jumper wire. My question is does the same snap disc operate both the bay heater and the tank heating pads simultaneously? The on off switch inside at the control panel  comes on but not the light next to it. Considering using thermostatically controlled light bulbs. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!!!

Sorry for the duplicate pics

55 minutes ago, Flyinhy said:

A set of torque limiters and an impact make that job a quickie. 

Just curious , did the flange have groves on the inside?

Do you mean the grooves around the base of the axle shaft outwards toward the stud holes? If so then yes. 

I stand corrected! As it turned out I found they were #8, 9/16 fine thread (not 1/2") which calls for 129 ft.lb torque. So project done and another lesson learned in the world of RVing! Thank you all for your input, you are the reason we all turn to these forums for help.

On 9/29/2021 at 6:41 PM, vito.a said:

Are they 5/8" or 1/2"?  Size of the stud, not the hex nut. 

Grade 8, 1/2"NF is 90 ft. lbs.  

I used this chart:

Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque Table

Thanks Vito for the chart!

40 minutes ago, Flyinhy said:

Should be 150-180 ft pounds 5/8 studs. Torque in a cross pattern too

Congratulations on your recent purchase. Yeah I know what you mean. There's never a dull moment good or bad but the hard work we all put into these machines is out weighed by all of the good moments and memories made.

26 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Are they 5/8" or 1/2"?  Size of the stud, not the hex nut. 

Grade 8, 1/2"NF is 90 ft. lbs.  

I used this chart:

Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque Table

Thanks Vito for the chart!

They are 1/2".

I just replaced the rear passenger side outward axle flange gasket and would like to know what the axle nuts(8 of them)torque specs are. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Thanks Jim for the reply. I just recently tried a new remote and cable to no avail. It would seem that it is an eternal issue and given its age it's probably not worth fixing. I have also been contemplating replacing it. Did you have to change anything such as cables, remote, wiring, different size fuse from battery to Inverter( just installed a new 200 amp fuse) or anything else I should be aware of?   Chuck H

Update... I decided after checking everything I had the guts to check I took off the covering (see attached photo)over the Invert button on the front of the unit itself because it was so smashed in that the button wasn't operable. There was a small piece of round foam the size of the button behind the front covering and between that and the actual button that had dried out and become very hard. So after removing all of that I then was able to just push the button with the eraser end of a pencil and the Inverter came to life. It now works fine. But and there's always a but. The remote inside isn't communicating with the Inverter properly because I can turn off the Inverter using the remote but can't turn it back on, it just goes blank. So I have to go back outside and turn it on again. So one issue resolved only to find another one. Anybody out there with any ideas? Thanks

That's kind of what I've been thinking that it gave up the ghost! I'm just very concerned as to why somebody removed the fuse and also I've been told that the 50amp main cord has been replaced because the original should have been black. I just don't want to replace the inverter and fuse to have it blow again.

They are not tripped. Could they go bad? Sorry that's a loaded question considering this inverter is 20 years old. 

No there is no A/C power to anything. There is 12VDC coming into the inverter that matches what the state of charge is on the batteries. Everything works fine on shore power and geny power, all outlets all appliances are working. 

Ok thanks, I'll try that.

How do I delete duplicate posts? I somehow duplicated my post twice.

Thanks for the replies! That's what is showing now on the remote with no shore power attached. If I push the invert button it all goes blank, push it again and it lights back up to what the picture shows.

We have an odd issue with our Xantrex Freedom combi 1500 inverter/charger in our recently purchased 2002 Monaco Knight 34pbd. The inverter portion is not inverting. The charger portion is working fine. The odd part is a previous owner has removed the 200 amp fuse and inserted a small guage battery cable as jumper eliminating any protection. Before I purchase a new inverter/charger and install a fuse I should probably try to research why someone would have removed the fuse in the first place and why the inverter portion isn't working. I'm new to this stuff and not sure where to start. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Pic of remote looks as if the inverter should be working. Other pic shows looped jumper cable where a 200 amp fuse should be. 

We have an odd issue with our Xantrex Freedom combi 1500 inverter/charger in our recently purchased 2002 Monaco Knight 34pbd. The inverter portion is not inverting. The charger portion is working fine. The odd part is a previous owner has removed the 200 amp fuse and inserted a small guage battery cable as jumper eliminating any protection. Before I purchase a new inverter/charger and install a fuse I should probably try to research why someone would have removed the fuse in the first place and why the inverter portion isn't working. I'm new to this stuff and not sure where to start. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

That should be what is called a double bulb sweep seal that has a self pinch side that attaches to the slide opening. If this is the same as my bdrm. slide(2002 Monaco Knight) they are a real pita to install. You should be able to Google it with no problem. I found mine at a local RV store. Good luck.