Bjohnsonmn

Do you have a switch that says On/Off or Brake? (Or both?)

I went through and traced the wires in the console back to the splices with the white bundle that goes through the floor. Most of my wires are not labeled. Unfortunately, several were disconnected before I opened up the console and so I have no idea where they are intended to be attached.

2 minutes ago, gdroberson said:

should be the break button /switch

The circle is the light on the switch?

Hello fellow owners,

I am in need of some help. While working to remove carpet for our upcoming flooring install, I removed the driver's side console from the wall. While doing this, I found multiple terminated (spade) but not connected wires. Also, My PAC brake hasn't worked since we purchased the unit last fall. I am assuming these two things are connected.

I traced several of the wires back through the wire loom (and have the finger damage to show for it). Now that I have some, but not all, of the wires identified, it is time to start putting it back together and filling in the blanks.

What I know:

• I have the wiring schematics for my coach (2000 Windsor 32PB)
• I have the Windsor PAC brake wiring schematic that shows the relay (but doesn't show where those connections come from)
• I have some photos

What I don't know:

• What the On/Off switch in the photo is actually for. Is that the On/Off for the Brake?
• Is the Brake switch a momentary PAC switch? I do have the floor switch as well which seems interconnected.

What I need:

I need photos of the wires connected in someone's console to at least know what should and shouldn't be connected with special emphasis on the switched.

And, can anyone decipher this symbol for me?

Thanks!

Could be a weak point in the pex that only lets water through when the pressure of the water pump is running. It looks like it is also near the place where the water lines could transition into the slide for the kitchen.

There will likely be a panel that can be removed in the back of the cabinet, possibly held in with staples.

For small loads such as your laptop charger, you may consider a car inverter that plugs into your 12v round plug. They make ~400w inverters that draw a small amount of 12v Amps to charge things like your laptop.

I'm in the middle of an inverter/battery project on my 2000 Windsor 32PB. There's a lot to consider when you start looking at bulk power like you need to run inverters.
Do you have a 110v wiring diagram for your coach? Are there any Romex runs to a location where a factory inverter would have been installed?

Our CB cable is disconnected where it passes through the roof. It is a right-angle connection with a positive peg, but it doesn't look like any connector I've ever seen before. I have a 2000 vintage Windsor. Anyone have any ideas on what that connector might be called?

Mine ran right behind the radio (where my CB box was mounted). Then, it runs along the dash and up the right side A pillar to the space behind the cabinets and back across to the left side where it would go through the roof, but it is disconnected and laying there with the hole patched.

You could have an actual ground fault issue now that the GFI protections are all gone. It may be time multimeter/tone tester work.

I'd revert back to the last thing you changed, reverse and test, then keep reverting until the issue is resolved.

If it looks like a phone cable and is yellow, it was likely a temperature sensor at one time. Ours was melted to the battery from the overcharging the previous owner allowed.

1 hour ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Not sure what you mean.

I am isolating the generator and engine so that the batteries don't charge from 2 different sources. The alternator and the inverter/charger.

When the ml acr sees both sources it will isolate the 2 sets of batteries.

 

Sorry, that was a reply for the comment above mine.

Do you have any possible connection between the house 12v and the chassis 12v? As far as I am aware, the generator only produces 240v power dumped through the automatic transfer switch. What happens if you start the engine while on shore power?

I am going with the MultiPlus II 3K 2x120 model and LiFePO4 batteries. I'm also using a DC-DC charger to keep the house batteries topped up while driving (the Smart DC-DC charger has alternator sense settings that function similar to how the B/IRD/Solenoid works in terms of not burning out the alternator, but with amperage limiting capabilities.)
To keep my chassis toped up, I am using the 4amp trickle charge port on the MP II that is specifically made for Starter Batteries. Although someone claimed that the MPII cannot charge a starter battery and LiFePO4 batteries, all documentation I see indicates that it is specifically made for this use case.

For boosting or jumping scenarios, I will use the $99 booster pack that I picked up at Costco that provides 1200 cranking amps. Looking at the chart in the Cummins manual, only a 100% charged battery will provide the full 1280CCA that is listed. It drops well below the 1200 mark that the battery pack is rated for quickly as the battery discharges. Plus, unless the battery is completely dead, it won't be required to provide the full ~1200CCA to start the rig. If it is, I need a new battery and a jump really only gets the engine running on a dead battery. (We have a TOAD, so running to the store for a new 8D starter battery is easy to do).

I plan to drastically simplify the switch bay that is at the passenger rear of my coach (2000 Windsor 32PB). I'll be able to repurpose the boost switch for just about anything else I can think of that I would want momentary control over in the rear of the coach.

Mine is nearly the same level of grime! I'm looking forward to hearing what others say about cleaning while not damaging the various lines, cables, bits and bobs in that compartment.

I was going down a similar rabbit trail in making the upgrade selections for my coach (2000 Windsor 32PB). I was near the point of replacing my older Trace/Xatrex with a newer one and then decided to go Victron for two reasons:

1. The price was actually lower

2. The way it handles 50amp split phase and how I plan to use LiFePO4 batteries with solar (everything talking with each other)

There are several great options out there and, in my opinion, so long as you stick with a quality brand, you will be in good shape. Going pure sine wave has advantages (efficiency being one of them).
I would look at what each option does and let that guide you while staying with a brand with a solid reputation for good performance in the field.

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

Be aware that the Li-BIM is a backyard shade tree fix.  It only address the alternator overloading problem.  It doesn't have any charge profile (algorithm).  It's either full 14.4 volts from the alternator for 15 minutes, then off for 35 minutes, then back on at 14.4 volts for another 15 minutes and then back off for 35 minutes, over and over as you drive down the highway.  You are either charging your LiFePO4 at 14.4 or 0.0.  Neither is ideal, for a day's drive time.  That is why informed are going with DC-DC Chargers, which both limit the current draw from the alternator, but also have a smart charger built in to properly charge/maintain LiFePO4 batteries.

 -Rick N. 

It looks like I am going to be going with a Victron Cyrix (spelling?) That is made for Li-Acid setups like this.

JD, that's wild. At that point, it is impacting the engine control unit and possibly causing other issues as well 

The DC-DC is just to charge the house from the alternator? I'm putting a Victron isolator that is specifically made to go between the two and deals with the Lithium on one side and acid on the other. It has the same 13.3+v protection that the BIRD gives to allow the alternator to spool up and not be over run and the boost switch. That may be a better way to go?

7 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

Ok, so that puts ALL of your big loads on one leg of the 50A power?  How many ACs do you have (15a each)?  And a water heater (12a?), and probably the battery charger too (10a)? All on the one leg of power ?

Incoming power may be 50a, but a 10kw generator will only handle 40a on each leg. 
Side note… If I were doing it again and replacing the batteries and the inverter I’d go to 24v on the inverter battery bank and add a small 12v house battery for the lights and such  

Cheers

Walter

No,

The Multiplus 2 2x120 has the ability to have an AC with L1 and L2 pass through as well as an AC with L1 and L2 pass through and inverted suppy. The wiring diagrams that Victron has on their site does a good job of explaining why this inverter is so different than other inverters out there.

1 minute ago, waterskier_1 said:

I thought you had a Victron MultiPlus II?

 

Will be installing it.

No worries! I am attempting to use the existing 120v wiring because getting a new run in would be quite the feet for now. If we renovate the cabinets in the rear, then perhaps.

My vintage 2005 RV2012 Xantrex doesn't support Li charging profiles. It works fine as is, but I want to go Lithium moving forward. I'll have several working components I'll be listing for sale once the upgrade is done!

12 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Brad, you are correct.  I thought since you were wiring everything through the inverter, you had other plans.  I'm guessing you are doing it this way to avoid running a new AWG 6 or maybe AWG 8 replacement run for the AWG 10 run currently in place.  Sorry for confusing the discussion.   I have not used the Polaris connectors.  

You said this MultiPlus doesn't support lithium batteries??  I believe it does.  I have the MultiPlus (not version 2) and have it has a program for LiFeOP4 but I'm not using it - I'm using custom settings to better fit the batteries I built.  

 

I don't understand how the DC-DC charger should affect the shut down the inverter when the generator is running.  If properly configured, the inverter should only see a charging source, just like it would the SCC (Solar Charge Controller).  Does it work with solar and the generator?  I don't have the DC-DC charger on my system.  I strictly use solar or the inverter/charger to charge my house batteries.  

5 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

I just started a thread on this subject over in electrical. Was watching some YouTube people had invested a substantial about of money in 2 Victron inverters to split their power, then added 1200w solar. They were disappointed to get like 1 hr of tv a night. Their res fridge is eating their batteries. 
 

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/4062-solar-myth/#comment-36211

Yeah, not sure that was the right approach they took.

Our Windsor came with 400w of solar and wired for at least 30amps of push to the batteries... factory in 2000! (ready for 400w, but only 1-2 panels are original)

Solar is a boost for us to power simple 12v usage and reducw our need to run the generator, not eliminate it.

I'm thinking ill go the route of using the Polaris connectors in a box with strain relief to extend the main panel supply if needed. And as earlier stated, I won't tie in the ground in the box!

13 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

I just started a thread on this subject over in electrical. Was watching some YouTube people had invested a substantial about of money in 2 Victron inverters to split their power, then added 1200w solar. They were disappointed to get like 1 hr of tv a night. Their res fridge is eating their batteries. 
 

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/4062-solar-myth/#comment-36211

I don’t doubt some can get ac to run with 1200ah of battery bank (cha-Ching). But recharging as mentioned above can be problematic. What happens on a hot cloudy day?  That’s a whole other road as you and I are not headed in that direction.
 

I have the Multiplus 2 you are wanting to install. It’s been great. 
 

I’ve wired as you have described 

The only hiccup, if you want to run your roof ac while driving, I had to turn off tue dc/dc charger. I’m not an electrical engineer so cannot explain it, but the 2 power inputs are not on the same wave and the inverter freaks abs shuts off, won’t let Gen power pass through to protect itself I assume. 

Here’s the simple map I followed for install 

That is a REALLY odd symptom! Have you opened a support ticket? When you say DC to DC charger, do you mean a seperate Victron device?

I had been looking at that, but I'm looking into the Li-BIM that support the cranking amps for 30 seconds. It takes the place of the LI-415, the IRD/e, and the big boy solenoid and still retains the boost switch.

The quote feature of the forum may be making my replies look strange.

Hello Rick,

Yes, I have been reviewing the spcifications as well as the load limits of each part of the MP II. The plan is to connect the transfer switch to the AC in which is rated for the L1 and L2 50amp loads in. the AC2 out connection (non-inverted loads, ac's, main panel loads). The AC1 out connection will be the inverter supplied loads. The cable from the bay to the main panel is carrying all of the 50amp load presently, but will only carry the non-inverted loads going forward. there is an out and back run of 10-2 from the main panel, to the bay, back to the inverted loads panel. The Main to bay return will be disconnected on both ends as it will lo longer be necessary. the 10-2 inverted power return will be used to supply up to 30 amps of load (which is how it is wired and protected today)

There are a few versions of this unit. We are going with the 2x120v built for this application.

18 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Run AC off inverter, good one LOL I mean, I guess you could run 1 for a few mins if you had to. 

There are some impressive builds with 1,200aH Lithium battery and 1200w solar setups that get several hours of real AC use in the wild. It takes other modifications to the AC's and other cable related upgrades as well.

We are not doing this. The inverter we have now does not support lithium batteries, thus the upgrade. I like several other features of the MP II 2x120 including moochdocking boost when you only have 30 amp service. We have a nice quiet diesel for our cooling needs.

I am redesigning the electrical system in our 2000 Windsor 32PB, including how the 110v system works.

Our coach has the generator and shore power run to the central basement (interrior) where the transfer switch is. This is also where the inverter/charger is located to. The 110 wiring goes from the transfer switch to the main panel. Then, a smaller gauge wire runs from the main panel back to the power basement to the inverter, then back to the inverter 110 sub panel in the rear.

My plan is the run the transfer switch output to the Multip-plus II, then use the runs back to the 110 panels to power the pannels, removing the return romex from the mix. Ill also be taking the inverter breakers out of the main panel. The Multi-plus II has the ability to handle 50amp split phase in an impressive manner.

My challeng is that the wire from the transfer switch to the main panel is about 1'-2' too short. Given that it is 110/240, I believe Polaris connectors are the right way to extend these if I am unable to re-run the wire. This is an internal cavity with no access to the outside except a slide over panel in the passthrough.

Any experience with this?

Thanks!

On 10/10/2021 at 1:27 PM, waterskier_1 said:

I'd be very concerned.  You don't know what was making the alarm, so don't know if you still have a problem.  It's the same idea as pulling out all the warning bulbs in the dash so you won't be bothered by them.  

  -Rick N.

This only works and is acceptable on Jeeps. 🙂 (I am a Jeep fan)

9 minutes ago, DavidL said:

10-20 rpm variation is normal.  Not sure what motor your RV has (gas vs. diesel and then which one) but rpm is regulated by the engine controller by moving the AIS motor in and out to vary how much air goes into the engine.  The engine controller then tells the fuel injectors to open a tad longer for more fuel.  The engine then goes a little faster.  The engine controller then does the opposite.  Hence a 10rpm swing.

The lights going brighter might be from the alternator spinning a tad faster which then puts out more output and then more voltage and then brighter lights.  But I can't imagine 10-20 rpm making much difference.  You should put a tachometer / scan tool on the engine CAN bus to see how it's doing.  But if no check engine light on, then it's probably doing just fine.

Put a voltmeter on the 12 volt circuits to see what voltages the system is producing.

Are your lights on the coach or engine (starting) batteries?  Check both 12 volt circuits just to know how both are doing.

Not seeing anything worth consideration based on the description.

I have a BlueFire that I can put on the unit and turn logging on. I'll do that the next time I need to move it. What is strange about it is that it is very "regular". The time between alternating dips and surges are like a metronome. It makes me wonder if it is related to an electrical component demanding power, etc. I will be taking a look to see if I have the DUVAC or regular alternator as well.

Thanks!