Bjohnsonmn

Hello all,

I have a 2000 Windsor 32PB with 124,000 miles. The coach has been well maintained with all relevant filters, hoses, etc in good, fresh working order.

The situation: It is cold here in Minnesota. We needed to move the coach out of the shop to complete our overhead electrical so it was sitting outside for two days. We plugged in the coach and ran the engine block heater for 2 hours prior to starting the coach.

After starting the coach and setting it to the recommended higher idle speed using the cruise control, it produces a strange behavior. This has happened other times, including when it wasn't too cold.

1. The engine will momentarily increase in rpm (approximately 10-20 rpm, just enough to hear it) which also causes the lights to brighten for the same one or two seconds. Then return to normal.

2. Approximately 10-15 seconds later, the rpm dips the same amount and the lights dim for approximately the same 1-2 seconds.

Repeat.

Based on the instructions in the manuals, I do not let the coach idle for more than the time it takes to fill the air tanks and then to secure the coach after I move it in or out of the shop.

Any ideas on where to start? Has anyone else seen this? The chassis battery seems like it is in good condition and the engine starts easily.

I-90 is pretty good once you get past the Cascades passes. It is a long, lonely road, but beautiful out there. You would be between the heart of winter travel and the beginning of spring storm season. If you aren't ready for 15F weather some nights, then this is not the route for you. The highway departments are good at keeping things open if it is practical and closing it down when it isn't. This is a big overland haul route, so there is plenty of traffic if you have an issue as well. You can always duck down to I-80 or I-70 too.

I am in agreement with others saying that they are likely just due for servicing. When you pull them apart to put new boots on, you should be able to inspect them for ware. If there isn't any slop, and the thing still drives like it is on rails, you should be in good shape. Inspect for cracks and bending.

I also suggest taking a paint pen and mark all of your bolts and nuts when you put them back on the spec. You get a visual indication if anything is backing out or moving unexpectedly.

$1300 is a lot for the coverage they are offering in my opinion. You have a lot of the expensive parts of a blowout covered between your insurance (skirting, fenders, drivetrain) and CoachNet (Stuck on the road). $1200 is about the cost of 2 tires.

If it were me, I would use that $1200 and buy new tires and cover them with a tire warranty from that shop that includes road hazard coverage if you can find that.

23 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Hmmm . . . my wet bay has a loose wire sticking out at the top.  If I ground the wire the light comes on.  💡  I guess my "switch" died a long time ago and got trashed. 

- bob

I have the same thing! I can't find where it was mounted, but the light and wiring is all there and ready to go when I figure out how I want to mount it.

I just ordered and installed these on my 2000 Windsor. Worked great!

Amazon.com: weideer 4Pcs Door Pin Switch Momentary Universal Adjustable Car Bonnet Alarm Light Hood Switch K-025-I : Automotive

Possibly interested. I am going to go look to see if it matches my 2000 Windsor... looks close.

Hello!
There should be existing isolation between the two systems already. On my 2000 Windsor, there are a few spots. One is the boost solenoid. The other is through a battery minder that has functions that delay and isolate the two under specific conditions. Do you have a BIRD or similar device? The electronic disconnect is only to connect the chassis battery to the rest of the coach for service.

Thanks for the lead cbr046!

Here's where I ended up: 1-480704-0 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Along with the pins, 350218-1 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

And 2 of these per plug: 350812-1 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

The strain relief is different, and actually made for a bundled wire rather than the multiple wires that come into the plug. Even calling in did not yield the exact replacement. It does look like it will work! I'll report back here if it does so others who run into this have a resolution.

Cheers,

Brad

52 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

It is a molex connector. Maybe local auto parts store but for sure on Amazon and eBay   

I figured it would be a molex, but heck if I can determine the style name and pull it up!

Hello All,
While working on the renovation of our 2000 Monaco Windsor 32PB, I noticed that there was a loose wire on the ABS controller in the compartment under the driver's seat. It looks like it may be a ground, but it should be in the connector. The board side is OK, it is the wire side that needs repair.

I feel comfortable remaking automotive connectors, but I don't know where to begin searching for this specific one. I've looked on DigiKey and other similar sites, and cannot narrow it down.  Attached is a photo.

Cheers!

Brad

Hello Monacoers,

We are underway with the renovation of our 2000 32PB Windsor and have found something interesting. There is a copper propane line that ends behind the driver's seat with a T valve and is capped. It comes from a T junction at the furnace where the line comes up from below.

We have only ever heard of one other person with the exact same line setup, so we figure it isn't custom.

Any idea why this is there? Nothing on the build sheet or sticker that talks about it.

Thanks!

I agree... the daily digest does make a lot of things a bit more difficult... Is it possible to at least add a method for excluding it?

Hello All,

I am looking for LED replacements for the headlight and taillight assemblies that upgrade them to LEDs and have the correct lens/reflector setup to disperse the light as needed.

The taillights are from a late 90's Ford Econoline van. The headlights are from some other car or truck from around that same vintage. Any pointing in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Brad

I am looking for a trickle charger for the chassis battery. I have several options for the more normal sized batteries, but this one is a big one.

Thanks!

Thanks! When you sized it, did you measure the outside dimensions of the flange, or the bubble part.

Where did you get your skylight from?

I would not suggest using the wedge option. That could be a lot of current going in the wrong an expensive direction if you have a problem.

There are several really great DC to DC charging options out there that will perform this task safely. There is a BIM module that is popular on newer motorhomes.

On 9/21/2021 at 9:01 AM, PeterSchweizer said:

Shell Rotella T4 10W-30  Engine oil for Diesels

For some levity...

Every time I see someone mention Shell Rotella, all I can think of is the cheesy Velveeta, sausage, and Rotel dip we have at family functions! Doesn't work as well with the Shell stuff mixed in  🙂

45 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

Do yourself a favor and seal items on the roof with Eterna Bond.  Use one time and forget.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

The previous owners did that... My review is that it isn't all that eternal...

Hello folks,

We have a new to us 2000 Windsor 32PB and need to do some roof maintenance. The first thing is resealing certain items. The book says to use "Dolphine 7547 Lo Thix UVR ElastiSeal" on the roof. Dophin was purchased by ADCO a while ago and I cannot find anynpf the old product info to compare materials.

Does anyone know what sealant is chemically the same as the 7547? I am specifically looking for an exact replacement.

Bonus, I need new shower inner and outter skylights, the rectangular type. Any luck finding those anymore?

Cheers!