Analyte

No, it was the inner. It still had a bit of the curve on the outer edge and the lip around the outer roof left no question. Ordered via Amazon from ICON

The issue wasn't the switches on the lights themselves, they were both on. On the wall behind the TV was the missing switch to turn them on. Now with it found, they all work like they are supposed to. There was even a hall light switch as well which is even better! Thanks!!

Well, all the fuses were ok so I went back through the room again. I finally found the switch behind the upgraded larger flat screen TV. I missed it before, but all is good now!

I thought so too. Where is your switch in the bedroom? Maybe I have overlooked it Correct, same for me. It's just the two lights over the bed don't come on. I have to believe there is a switch on a wall or cabinet to turn them on near the bed since it seems foolish to walk back to the front to turn them on/off.

I'll look there this evening. Thanks. I do have a manual for a 2001, but there are some differences. It doesn't mention interior switches beyond appliances much at all though so I wasn't sure. Thanks again!

I did use the correct ICON sealent for the skylight where it attaches to the roof after cleaning all the old off stuff. The dicor was only used on the outside lip which is what was recommended. Never heard of the surround stuff or I didn't come across it when researching. Hmm...

Ok, all the other lights work except those two. Where is the fuse panel for those lights? Is it outside or inside? Or is the fuse on the light fixture itself? Thanks! Kerry

The lights directly over the bed don't come on with the switch at the front door of the coach nor with the switches on the lights themselves. No breaker is thrown so I must be missing a switch somewhere. I've looked, but I haven't seen a switch on the cabinets or walls around the bed. The lights did work for the inspector and I have a picture showing them on, but I've not been able to turn them on myself. I haven't reached out to him hoping he remembers, but I figured someone here might be able to direct me to a switch so I don't come across as clueless. Thanks,

Well, I replaced the skylight earlier this week and it was actually a fairly straightforward job. I did uncover shoddy work by a previous person, but I don't blame it on the older couple I bought it from as the gentleman didn't like heights so no work was done directly by him. My inspector did identify it as a problem, but we just thought the tape and sealer was old needing replaced. I decided to replace the skylight with a smoked version to cut down on light entering the coach since the existing lens was old. I scrapped off the tape and existing sealer to uncover the screws, and things seemed old compared to the videos I watched online. The old skylight was tough to pull off due to excessive butyl sealant. Once it was out of the way, I realized why the skylight looked odd on the roof. The sealer and tape looked separated, but that wasn't the main issue. The skylight had been replaced previously, but whoever did the work didn't remove the prior skylight. It appears they cut the dome off the original skylight, and then just dumped a bucket of sealant on the old lip and screwed the then new skylight on top. That's why there was a huge gap. It's unbelievable that someone would do that rather than do the job correctly. I removed the gallon of sealant and old flange, and the frame underneath was quite nice. I cleaned it well, and then installed the new smoked skylight correctly. Once done, I used Dycor lap sealant but it's didn't flow as well as expected. It moved a little, .5 inch or so, but it really didn't level out like the video's showed. It's sealed fine but I just don't like the lumpiness of it. I also replaced the vent on the roof since the cap was cracked at the top. It was an easy repair by comparison. I cleaned off the roof where it was dirty, but I'll need to plan another trip up there to give it a good soap washing so it's more presentable. No one will see it, but I'll feel better knowing it's clean and nice.

Thank you again sir!!

Copy on the Allen head, it wasn't clear where he was adjusted but tilt isn't my issue. I may need to spray those with some penetrating oil a day or so before I mess with them if typically tight. How do I adjust the interior tighter to the wall? I guess loosen both nuts, but then what? Tim, thanks for all the help with my million questions. Shocking I'm unable to find a service document online that spells out what to do.

Ok, I looked under the room and see the support arms. At the end there are nuts and bots I suspect for alignment, and then midway there is a window in the arm likely where the piston resides. Anyone have a link to an HWH video I could use to determine how to move the front side of the room out further to compress the inner seal? I found one thread where a guy explained you could back off a nut and use an allen wrench to move in/out, but I'm not seeing anything like that on the arms pictured.

Ok, I'll take a look tomorrow during the day. Thanks again!

Thanks, I wasn't really sure what I had. Are the adjustment bolts accessible in the storage bays or some other way. The bottom of the slide is smooth so not sure where to start looking. Thanks!!

Hello, Looking at my LR slide, the front near the drivers seat doesn't fully compress the inner seal when extended like the rear section. I did some searches and found various threads regarding Lippert and HWH Slides. Did Monaco use a specific type for all of the LR slides, or Is there an easy way to tell which type I have? I'm still new to this RV, and the data card doesn't specify which is on the coach. Thanks, Kerry