JohnC3

On 9/16/2021 at 1:52 PM, Jobert said:

We have experienced the same problem, twice, so I went to a auto parts store and looked up a flexible radiator hose the length and diameter I needed.  I put slip on connectors at each end of the plumbing plastic and used double hose clamps on each end. That has worked for 4 years now.  You need a parts person experienced in looking up something by size and not by application.  Those types are getting harder to come by with everything by application on a computer.  Hope this may help and have a great day. Happy trails Bert

I have found that the NAPA Associates seem to be better at this (Finding matches for parts by size)  than others. Especially if you can find a NAPA Auto and Truck parts store!  I replaced all my Radiator hoses after I had a hose part on I-90 on Labor day (and roadside service was pretty much unavailable).

John

I would like to get some advice.

I am going to upgrade to a Hybrid inverter (Victron 12V 3000VA w 2x120v) to enable me to function on < 50A but still run all my systems (within reason) as needed.

One issue I have is the Intellitec 750 EMS. My understanding is that when I am on Single Phase Pole power (15A - 30A), The Intellitec enables Load Shedding and if I am at 30A, it will shed loads if I exceed 30A. I want to be able to modify this behavior (As my inverter will be able to Load Assist up to ~55A). After some thought, I have come up with the idea of forcing the Intellitec to think its getting power from the genset. This would be done by providing 12V power to pin 2 of the Intellitec display panel. I am considering using a Switch along with an Isolation relay (like is used in Tow Vehicle Brake Light wiring kits that will take a signal from either tow or motorhome brake and pas it to the lights). My thought is that the system should then appear to be in genset mode when the "Force Genset" switch is turned on and the Inverter is turned on (I would use the 12V relay on the inverter to determine the inverter is on) .  I believe this would enable the Intellitec system to remain installed and function normally, but allow me to use the Power Assist of the Victron Inverter.

One issue I see is that in Genset mode, The EMS would not limit my power until it exceeded 8K watts (66A) and the 30A (or 15A if mooch docking) + hybrid inverter would only provide 55A total (40A if I was getting 15A from shore power) and the inverter would shut down if I exceeded this level.  I am willing to live with this as I am mostly looking to just run 2 ACs and maybe a Microwave while on 30A shore power).

I will have a large (1140AH) LFP battery bank, and understand this still has its limits. Not trying to run everything at once, but want to be able to do laundry and run an AC and not have the AC shut off if I nuke a cup of coffee (Yes the EMS will shed my front AC before my W/D!).

Do you see any problems with my plan, or have suggestions? Again my main purpose is to allow me to not be limited to 50A shore power, if I want to run 2 ACs + a Microwave or Dryer. (BTW I will have the AC soft starts installed as part of this system). My Loads are approx. as follows:

2 ACs at 15A each (once they heat up)

Convection oven at 12A

W/D at 13A

TV at 3A

Base Load at 5A

Thanks!

If you have a blocked check valve, it would be full of cold coolant when4the pump started. If the hose is blocked, the heated coolant cant enter the hose to heat it.

The Aux Compressor is controlled by a pressure switch that the pump plugs into. I believe this has power all the time. When the pressure drops (to 80 I believe) it activates and fills the ping tank (about 3/4 gallon) You could probably put an automotive 12v relay with the pressure switch to allow you to turn it off.

I just replaced mine a few months ago once I got the air leaks under control.

We had Conitech (sp?) air bags, and when we looked up the part number we found continental had a good cross reference list. 4 of the 5 manufactures were out of stock everywhere. So we went with Automann and ordered them from an outfit in PA  Stengel Brothers (www.stengelbros.net).

BTW, our bags LOOKED fine but several were leaking through the rubber (the shop took me out and showed me).

Found the replacements for ~1200 for 8 and then ($100/ea) to install at 75 service in Florida. REV Quoted me ~450/bag for the part.

Hope this helps,

Hello Everyone, 

On my Class A (2008 Monaco Camelot 36PDQ) my Air dryer has developed leaks 4 times in less than a year. The 1st OEM (Wabco 006110500 1200 System Saver Air Dryer, Formerly Meritor R955205) started leaking from the regeneration valve in 01/21. We replaced the complete unit with one from amazon. It lasted 4 months and started leaking from the purge valve. We got a free replacement from Amazon and installed the replacement, That lasted about 6 weeks and started leaking from a pin in front of the front air hose. We then got a refund from Amazon and got Wabco OEM. That started leaking after 3 weeks before it started leaking from the regen valve.

I replaced all of these myself. These units are located about 2 ft from the engine on a separate mounting pillar. I understand that some units had issues with hoses overheating (some were mounted close to the engine and the hoses were 2-3 ft long). I don't believe mine is that type as it is about 7 ft long (Leaves the dryer travels back around a pillar and connects to what I assume is the compressor.)

I replaced all 3 units myself, and am wondering if I missed something in my unfamiliarity with air systems.  I unbolted the old units cleaned the threads on the fittings with threads and teflon tape on the fittings. Any thoughts? and Thanks for any help you can give.