Newcsn

Decided to take our 2006 Dynasty out for a 100 mile ride today after having been in storage for 2 months. When I got to the coach I realized the keyless entry was not working. Unlocked the door manually, steps extended as usual and started the coach w/o a hitch. However, I noticed the 12v outlets in the dash where I plug in the TPMS were not powered - nor were the other 12 v accessories. Was planning to put the genset through its paces while we had it out, so fired it up & turned all the AC units & fridge on. All of a sudden the 12v outlet/accessories had power. Drove it 100 miles & left the gen running while we stopped for lunch - total run time on gen for round trip was ~3 hours. Got back to storage, shut off all ACs & fridge & hooked it up to 110/15 amp and noticed it was bulk charging b/t 95-100 amps. Shouldn’t the gen have bulk charged the batteries after 3 hours? Can’t recall ever seeing it bulk charging that many amps after driving/running gen for that long. Am I missing something here? Thanks

Thanks @BradHend - weight is not my primary concern as we already have tile in the coach. I'm wondering if "the look" is something that's achievable with LVT. Sounds like the PO did quite a few "work-arounds" (that's a very gracious way to identify them)! Cork sounds interesting, but it sounds like the gent that installed it did so where they had carpet. We're planning on putting carpet back where we currently have carpet. Thanks @Cubflyer - I've been following the "Which RV Floor is Better" thread. That thread actually prompted my more specific questions in my current post. @Michael J where did you find that product - big box? I actually ordered some samples from Karndean https://www.karndean.com/en/floors/ I'm interested to see what they look like in real life. From a DIY labor perspective, I think I'd prefer the LVT - just not sure we can get the look we want. We'll keep hunting . . .

Forgive me in advance for my many questions - I just hate diving into a project & then finding I'm over my head (and blown up my wallet)! Our 2006 Dynasty is in need of some flooring attention (dated/dirty & a few tiles loose and grout cracked/missing). I've flipped houses & have done my share of tile work - however - never in one of these "rockin & rollin" houses. I know a lot of folks are tearing out the tile & going back with LVT (weight saving, cheaper & easier DIY install . . .). However, we really prefer the look of tile/granite. We're wondering if anyone has found a LVT manufacturer that makes a really good looking tile/granite LVT? So far, the ones we've seen at the big box stores don't have the look we're after. If we go w/ LVT, do we float or glue down? Can you glue down a LVT that has a insulative backer? How do we accommodate for the thickness differential b/t the existing tile/thin-set and the thinner LVT - specifically where it meets the slides & quarter round? Do we add a layer of underlayment to accommodate for the difference? Will it require slide height adjustments? What about potential damage to the surface of the LVT from slides going in & out? If we choose to go back w/ tile/granite, is ceramic better than porcelain - what about granite (other than the price)? If we have no issues with the subfloor - and can remove the old grout sufficiently - can we lay the tile on this surface or will we need to install new underlayment? What's the best thin-set & grout to use to minimize cracking? I've read about using Ditra, however, won't this further increase the height of the finished floor (I'd prefer to not have to mess with leveling the slides)? Then there's the carpet redo! I can tear it out - but I won't be doing the install!! Thanks for your input!

I/m fairly certain our 2006 Dynasty has one of these. However, I don't believe ours is working & it appears the seal is torn. Are these seals available & where can one find troubleshooting guidance for the system? Thanks

Thank you @Tom Cherry - super helpful! We do NOT have an IOTA (thankfully) - I verified this shortly after we acquired the coach & I started learning more about the nuances of its electrical systems! I’ll have to work through the “tightening” procedure as outlined. However, it will be a bit before the temps get warm enough here to “max load” the generator as you suggested. Wish I could have done that while I was in SWFL - but the park we were at forbid running generators or the diesel Aqua Hot. Thanks, as always, for all the outstanding feedback. This is one incredible group of folks!!!!

Noticed an interesting phenomenon on our recent 5 week trip. Boondocked in a Cracker Barrel on our way to SWFL & kicked the 10 KW genset on. We were watching TV & intermittently the TV would shut off & then come back on - also noticed brief dimming of lights. It did this a few times over the span of the evening. Got to our final destination & were on 50 amp shore power for 5 weeks. Never had a similar issue during the entirety of our stay. On our return trip we repeated the boondocking thing & experienced the same intermittent cut out as before. Any idea what would be causing this only while running off genset? Thanks

@Tom Cherry Wow, thanks for the incredibly detailed response - that helps immensely! Yep, Magnum 2800 inverter onboard! I did the soft reset & will provide follow up tomorrow. Thanks again!

This group is amazing! So grateful for all the feedback - I’m always learning more about these complex beasts (especially when it comes to the electrical side of things)!!! Here’s some follow up on questions asked/today’s experience: Original fridge - residential Never had it out to see if there’s 2 outlets behind Fridge runs fine on generator & shore power Ours has a 10 KW generator Spoke w/ previous owner & he confirmed - the engine alternator/inverter will keep fridge running (plus a phone charger or six) - no need to run generator if that’s all the 110 we need. We do not attempt to run roof top units while driving w/o generator running - engine alternator/inverter can’t handle it. Our experience last year (and PO’s) was, when we start the engine (w/o generator or shore power) it took the inverter a couple minutes to sort things out & then invert automatically to power the fridge. I attempted again this AM (engine only - no gen or shore power) & it failed to auto-invert. I pushed the “Inverter On/Off” button and it started to invert - fridge ran all day off inverter while engine running (no gen or shore power) As for putting the generator through its paces - we had all three heat pumps running last night. I’m hoping the knocked any of the cobwebs off the brushes! However, as stated above, my issue is not when the generator is running. I hope the feedback is helpful. Now, just curious why it stopped auto-inverting when engine running (no gen or shore power)? Thanks again - and we’ll see what happens tomorrow AM when we shove off for the next leg of our journey.

Last fall when we were running up & down the road, I seem to recall that the engine/alternator would power the fridge - via the inverter - while driving. Am I recalling that correctly? Today, while driving, we had to run the generator in order to power the fridge. Also, we’re parked tonight & running the generator and the 110 system intermittently has lost power a couple times (TV & clocks go off and then come back on). Do I need to reset the inverter? Thanks in advance for your feedback!

@vito.a Thanks - I’ve emailed John. Have a great day!

I have all thermostats set at 70 & we appear to be getting heat out of all exchangers. However, on the control panel all zone lights & pump lights are lit except for the Zone#3 light. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this? Thanks!

@Brian J @Tom Cherry Thank you for clarifying - makes sense! And here I was, thinking those plungers were light switches! Thanks!

Wondering if someone can explain how the bay light system is supposed to work on our 06 Dynasty? My assumption was that the lights should come on whenever the bay door is opened (hence the little plunger switch in each bay). However, the only way our bay lights come on is if we turn the bay light switch on that’s located on the passenger side switch panel - and all the bay lights come on whether the bay door is opened or not. What am I missing here? Thanks

@vito.a Thanks for the feedback! Did an annual maintenance, let the system run a complete cycle & we have heat in all zones. However, because we’re winterized I won’t be able to test the domestic hot water side for another week (heading south). One issue: Even though we have heat out of every exchanger (including the wet bay heater) the Zone #3 light on the control panel never lights. I even cycled on the engine block heater and the light doesn’t light. Any ideas? Thanks, as always!

Getting ready for first winter trip & checking out the Aqua Hot system. Opened the bay door and noticed that the Zone #4 & Pump #2 lights on the control panel remain lit all the time. The system is off (both diesel & electric) and the interior thermostats are all off as well. Yet, these 2 lights remain lit all the time - unless I shut all power of to the coach. I reviewed docs on Aqua Hot website & couldn’t locate any trouble shooting for this situation. Any ideas? Thanks

@Jdw12345 Excellent feedback - thanks! Looks like we’re supposed to be around 10-15 here in Indy the day we load & head south! Looks like we’ll have a great opportunity to put the Aqua Hot through its paces!!!

@96 EVO You are correct! I verified the model on my 06 Dynasty and it is the AHE-100-04S. It has a single 120 VAC/1650 watt heating element. @Ivan K Newbie question: What is the reason for turning the inverter off? Thanks!

@det944 I will definitely provide some feedback on whether our galley fan‘s operation w/o furnace. I’m also gonna pull the bay panel tomorrow & find out exactly which model Aqua Hot we have. You’re so right - this group is amazing & so helpful!!!

@96 EVO I should have added that it has 3 pumps - the only reason I know this is there was a receipt in the paperwork where the previous owner had “Pump #3 Replaced”. I believe a 600 has 3 pumps & a 450 has 2 pumps.

@96 EVO I may have misspoken. I’ve not pulled the plastic bay cover to actually look at the unit & I can’t find any paperwork from the previous owner. After a bit of research I’m thinking it may be a 600 - we do have a bay heating system. Am I correct that the 400 doesn’t have this feature?

@96 EVO We have a 450 w/ a 1650 watt element. @det944 Thanks again - this is great info & very helpful - especially the idea of filling the fresh water tank & not remaining connected overnight to the park water! Thanks so much!

@det944 Thank you for sharing your recent experience! Here’s hoping we’ve seen the last of the temps we saw during the Christmas deep freeze! While driving, was the engine loop sufficient to keep the coach warm or did you have to run the Aqua Hot diesel? When parked, how well did the 110 accommodate the cold - how low could the outside temp get before having to switch to diesel? We truly appreciate your feedback!

We’ve never driven the coach long distance in the winter/freezing temps. The coach is winterized & we won’t be de-winterizing until we get to a location where temps are consistently above freezing. Obviously, our heat pumps will not function in these kind of temps & we’ll want to utilize our Aqua Hot for heat in the coach. Are there any issues with using the Aqua Hot for heat while the domestic water coil is winterized with RV antifreeze? Also, we’ll be boondocking a couple evenings on our journey to warmer confines, will we need to run the generator at night or will the house batteries keep the Aqua Hot heat exchangers/fans running? Any other things we should consider on our first freezing temp journey? Thanks so much!

@grizzly If they are Carefree shades, we had a couple broken. I ordered a set from Paul Whittle - he 3D printed them. Worked great!

Attempting to be prepared for “the worst”, I explored the cost of a Cummins & aftermarket radiators for our 10KW QD. Cummins = ~$2000 - Aftermarket = ~$1200 and both on back order. I spoke with a gentleman who replaced his 12.5KW radiator with a 79 VW Rabbit aftermarket radiator. Said it was almost an exact replacement for about $150 - and they’re available all over the place - said the radiator’s side drain aligned perfectly with the hole in the lower generator chassis.