Newcsn

@jacwjames I was thinking about using Dirta (the orange stuff) - but haven’t decided - concerned about how it might effect our slides operation (will it add too much thickness). I think we’re going to use a 12x24 porcelain tile & run them lengthwise.

@jacwjames Thanks - I think you’re right - it’s RedGard! Thanks as well for the distinction b/t ceramic & porcelain tile - very good to know! When I removed the tile there were a number of things that I was surprised to find: It appeared the thinset was put on per tile & very poorly/uneven/not full contact. It also appeared on some of them that there were multiple layers of thinset - perhaps a smear on the floor & a clump on the back of the tile or on the corners. And then, RedGard in the kitchen but not in the bath or the main entry. Not at all what I thought I’d find! Thinking about using the thinset Ditra uncoupling membrane on the install. My only concern is the finished thickness & slide operation. The journey continues! @Rick A Gotcha! We’ve tried to find a really good looking luxury vinyl tile but haven’t been able to yet. Wouldn’t mind the weight savings!

After a bit more exploration it appears the "red" material was some sort of liquid that was poured/painted on the underlayment prior to the thinset. After I removed a couple more pieces of trim you could see where the pour/paint ended. Wonder what that stuff is?

@Ivan K Thanks for the feedback! No, no heated floors in our coach. As for the "mess" I found a shroud that goes around my grinder head & attaches to my shop vac. From all the reviews this eliminates about 90% of the mess. We'll see! Diment Power Surface Grinding Dust Shroud for Angle Grinder 115mm / 125mm （4 inch / 5 inch） https://a.co/d/76WEV5Z @Rick A Thanks! Did you go back w/ ceramic tile?

Well, the time has come for a refresh of the floors in our 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV! We are leaning toward replacing it in the same configuration: ceramic tile where there’s tile & carpet where carpet. I’d value some feedback from anyone who has replaced their ceramic tile w/ ceramic tile! I have the majority of the tile removed & found a couple interesting things & wonder if anyone can shed some light on them. You can see there is a red membrane under the thinset that appears to be adhered to the underlayment. However, as you can see, there was none on the floor in the bathroom. What is the membrane & why wouldn’t they have continued it in the bathroom? BTW - this is where we had major tile delamination. My plan is to use a 5” diamond cup wheel to grind all thinset off the subfloor in prep for new ceramic tile. What type membrane should I put under the thinset prior to installing tile? I plan to use an ultra-flex thinset w/ polymers. Any recommendations on the best one(s) to use in one of these rocking beasts? Also, I don’t have the benefit of an indoor space to do the flooring replacement or keep opposing front slides open at the same while removing old tile. The front slide on the driver’s side is a flush floor slide & I noticed when it is fully retracted the leading edge (vinyl glide bar) appears to rest on the tile. Once I remove the old tile, will it harm the slide to move it in & out w/o something under the glide bar? I sure don’t want to damage the bar or the slide while replacing the tile. Thank you for chiming in!

This group is amazing - thanks for all the outstanding feedback!!! Thanks @Tom Cherry - tool has been ordered! @David Pratt On our Dynasty, the only genset rocker switch is on the dash. The switches in the bedroom are Intellitec switches - 2 of them. One for start & one for stop. When the genset is running the "start" switch remains illuminated. @Dr4Film - Looks like I'll be exploring this solution! After checking all my rocker switches that have lights it appears I have a few of them out! Time for a new experience! Thanks again!

We cranked up the 10 KW Onan generator on our 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV today and it appears the light in the generator on/off rocker switch is not illuminated while running. Do I recall correctly that the light is supposed to be illuminated when the genset is running? If so, is there a diagnostic process for determining if it’s an electrical/wiring issue or the switch? If the switch is bad, where is the best place to find a replacement? Thanks

TSD - but - we also monitor Mudflaps & Gas Buddy. There have been a few occasions where Mudflaps has been cheaper than TSD.

Thanks for the follow up Jim! I suspect those parts may be somewhat interchangeable. However, mine was not a “threaded” configuration - it had the push-in connections. Also, it appears they want about $100 for that little booger! Oh well, now I have some spare parts. Man, I hope I never need them!!!

Tom - Quick clarification. I misspoke, I actually visited w/ Remco tech support, not Aquajet/Aquatech. Sorry about the confusion! Also, I haven’t disassembled the old pump, so I can’t answer your question regardless PCB/POT. Here’s a couple more pics of the old pump. Not sure if this is helpful. Thanks

I recently (2 weeks ago) had a conversation with Aquajet's support folks due to a leak that has developed in the housing (see pic) on our 55 ARV pump (installed by PO about 4 years ago). They told me the pump & housing is not serviceable "due to the internal chip that is tested/programmed to the specific pump & has to be set at the factory". I find that incredibly curious (perhaps unbelievable)! It seems they're saying that their manufacturing parameters/tolerances have such a wide variance that the chip in every pump has to be uniquely tweaked so that the pump performs correctly. Hmmm . . . not buying their script! After searching extensively for the pump cover we finally bit the bullet on a new 55 ARV. Now I have a spare 55 ARV for parts (other than the cover).

KevinH - Yes, we've experienced a similar situation with our SeaLevel 2 bluetooth not responding intermittently (can't monitor from our phone or iPad). I called tech support & they told me to disconnect the plug on the back of the the monitor panel & let the system reboot. I suspect they told you to attempt this as well? I've had to do this a few times when the bluetooth decides to go on the fritz. So far it has worked, but I'm concerned the bluetooth may decide to depart permanently one of these days!

Awesome stuff - thank you all!

Chargerman - What a bummer! We just replaced ours for the same reason (clunking). It was really tight but we were able to twist the fridge in the opening enough to clear & get it out. Must have made a slight change in interior construction b/t a 06 Dynasty & Executive.

Interesting, I just ordered 2 quarts on Amazon for $27/quart. If I attempted to order/buy from Lowes/HD/Menards it appears they have a 4 quart minimum.

It’s time to refresh the roof & after reading a number of posts it seems like the Rustoleum Topside product is a solid solution. My question: Is it okay to paint over the Dicor self-leveling sealant or simply paint up to the edge of the sealant? The sealant is in great shape & I’m not planning to remove it. Thanks!

@birdshill123Well, all my best measurements couldn’t make a 28” fridge cabinet (doors removed) go through a 27” salon window. And @Frank McElroy we couldn’t squeeze it out the entry door either. Bummed!!! So, last weekend the driver’s side window came out - as did the driver’s captain chair - and we fished the old Whirlpool out the window & the new Whirlpool back in. Thank the Lord for a couple incredible friends & a forklift!!! All seemed to go flawlessly - thanks to all the excellent input from so many posters on this site! thanks again!!!

@Tom Cherry We’re not thinking we’ll have the coach for another 20 years - we may not even be alive! I’m not thinking the additional $1000 for soft starts is justified. It would be nice if someone designed a cost effective & discrete mini-split system for these beasts! Thanks again!

@Tom Cherry Always love your detailed & practical responses! I totally agree with your “do it all at once” approach. What makes the “investment” a bit more painful is when you have 3 of those beauties up on your roof & you’re installing 2 of the new thermostats!!! OUCH! Question: If a guy takes the leap & upgrades all three, is there really any need to add soft starts if you only use 50 amp service (can’t tell you the last time we were hooked to 30 amp) or runs off the 10KW generator? Oh, this will be a DIY project! I’ll at least save on the labor costs! Thanks

Thanks @birdshill123 - I believe that’s exactly what we’re going to do! After measuring & researching, it appears the easiest & hopefully most reliable solution will be to go back with almost exactly the same side-by-side Whirlpool. Had hoped to go w/ a French door with freezer on bottom, but they all are a bit to tall & would require taking about 1” off the lower edge of the upper cabinet. The other thing that was interesting is the capacity on French door models is less than the side-by-side (17.5 vs 21 cu Ft) @Mocephus I suppose we could take a chance & see how long it lasts. However, the thought of it taking a dump while we’re on a 6 week cross country trip doesn’t sound too appealing! $1500, a few hours work and a friend w/ a forklift sounds pretty reasonable - compared to dealing w/ a failure on the road! Thanks for all the feedback!!!

Early this year we noticed our 17 year old Whirlpool residential fridge knocking when the compressor engages. It’s knocking rhythm has become rather predictable: knocks 3 times on start up, runs about a minute & knocks twice and then runs another minute & knocks once. Then it runs fine & cools like it’s supposed to (fridge & freezer). Research seems to indicate these are the early signs of compressor failure. Thinking of replacing with a Samsung RF18. But, the current Whirlpool is 66” tall & the Samsung is about 70” tall. Not sure it will fit under the upper cabinet w/o significant modifications. Wondering if anyone’s done a similar swap & can provide any feedback? Obviously there is no heater under the Whirlpool - it sits directly on the floor. Thanks!

Thanks again @Tom Cherry Perfect timing - downloaded the manual & will be doing some reading on my flight this afternoon! Truly appreciate the guidance!

@Tom Cherry Your patience with us non-engineer/electrical newbies is amazing! Thanks again!!! Roger that - will use a digital VOM for taking reading. When testing individual batteries, do I assume correctly that it needs to be an isolated test? Each battery disconnected from the series? And for give my lack of knowledge, but, what book are you referencing that I should be looking at on page 285? Thanks! @Ivylog Thank you - I’ll be testing warmth & voltage shortly!

Thanks again @Tom Cherry! I’ve done the Magnum setup per the guidelines. One question on the AGS - Start Volts; it appears I can only select in “whole volt” increments (9, 10, 11, 14 . . .). How does one set it to 11.7/9 volts? Regarding parasitic draw: I found the that controllers on our comfortaire-less bed were staying on continually - not powering off as intended. I unplugged the pump under the bed - so hopefully that parasitic draw is gone. And, all HEC is setup so we can switch off (as recommended). However, what’s the easiest way to unplug the fridge w/o pulling it out? I imagine the plug is behind the unit. Its been running on the recommended setup on 15 amp for about 4 hours and the remote says we’ve gone from bulk charging @ 95-100 amps, to absorb charging @ ~45 amps and we’re now float charging at 18 amps. Hopefully that’s a good indicator! Thanks! Also, how do I tell if I have a “full BIRD” system? Here’s a pic of the rear run box.

@Tom Cherry Thanks - as always - for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us Monacoers! Your detailed & thorough responses continue to help me understand the nuances of these animals and have saved untold time & money. Thank you! I will be running through the diagnostics you've suggested. Here's some feedback to your questions: We do drive it frequently (will be driving it more frequently since this experience). We have 8 house batteries. Unfortunately, no 30 amp service at current storage location - only 15 amp. I believe this is the second time (in the 2 yrs we've owned it) that we've had dead house bank. I don't know about how they were treated prior to our ownership. Any guess how long it should take to recharge 8 house batteries on a 15 amp service? I simply don't have availability to anything else currently. Thanks again for all your help!