Doug and Nicki

The assembly is made by Glendinning. Several years ago, I ordered the replacement hose and plastic reel directly from them. It was a fairly easy swap. I have looked online, but do not see it offered anymore. Perhaps you can call them to see if they can send a new reel with the hose attached. Otherwise, there are a lot of articles on IRV2 and other sites about how people have done it by splicing. 

It was a speaker for who knows what. I snipped the wire and everything else seems to be working. The buzzing has stopped, so I am happy at this stage.

in our 2008 Dynasty, Creative Coach Interiors in Columbus, Ohio removed ours through the driver side window beside the driver seat. They removed the seat and window and used that opening for the two refrigerators.

Update. After contorting myself to see better under the dash and also cutting some wire ties to move the wire loom a bit, I see a small black speaker. I have not yet determined exactly what it is for. Possibly the air system siren while coming up to pressure. I have more work to do to try to unplug this or to remove it altogether to a place where I can evaluate things better. I will report back after doing some more research.

On 11/30/2022 at 6:48 PM, myrontruex said:

Have you made any modifications lately?

No modifications have been made.

On 11/30/2022 at 6:48 PM, myrontruex said:

Have you made any modifications lately?

No modifications have been made.

On 11/30/2022 at 5:20 PM, DavidL said:

Sounds like you are getting ignition or alternator noise in the cable.

Is yours a diesel pusher?  If so, then likely not ignition.

You might have a ground loop in the Kenwood installation.  Usually heard through the speakers...what is the gray box?

A choke installed on the kenwood power line might help.  But that's just a guess right now.

The gray box appears to be for the CB radio. I have disconnected the power to that, but the noise remains. PLease expand on "choke". Is this device something I can buy online?

I replaced mine with LED strip from Amazon. This is a 12 volt light strip, so making the change is easy. Get the dimmable roll of LED and just zip tie it to the existing rope light. Works fine.

I have a 2008 Dynasty with the Kenwood KVT-M707 wide lcd monitor receiver (with backup camera) and the Kenwood LZ-702W wide LCD touch screen monitor. on a recent trip, i started getting a buzzing noise from under the dash. The noise is constant, even when the engine is not running, but increases with engine rpm, while on the road. The buzzing seems to be coming from a gray box on the inside firewall. The only way to stop the noise is to pull the radio fuse in the outside control center bay. Have any of you experienced this? If so, what did you do to correct it?  Does anyone have suggestions?

It is likely a Gerard if it is the main powered awning. If a slide room awning, it is likely Carefree.

Stemco is the brand, but I do not have a part number. They can likely help you to identify it.

Thank you all for the information. I will try these things and will see what happens. 

I had the same problem on my AquaHot bay. After doing research, I discovered that drilling a 1/4 inch hole in the handle in a specific location allowed me to use a screwdriver and push the latching mechanism to the side to open the door. If you want, I will take a picture after the rain stops and attach it to this post.

If it is an ONAN with Kabota engine, they are right on top. What makes you think they need changed?

You will need to gravity feed coolant into the tank by siphoning or get a bulb hand pump. Also, Harbor freight has an inexpensive electric water pump that can be used but rinse it out well afterwards.

Had the same problem and decided to block it off between the fresh tank and the valve and just use the gravity fill when I need to put water in the tank. 

I assume your coach is air leveled on the air bags rather than having cylinders that touch the ground. It is fairly common to have air leaks that allow the air bags to deflate. Once your air tanks lose enough air, things will sag a bit. You have an auxiliary compressor that is supposed to keep the tanks full, but if it works, it is a noisy critter that cycles frequently. You need to have a truck chassis shop inspect for air leaks and get those corrected first. I have the same problem with my leveling system and recently had two leaks corrected, which helped a lot. The coach moving around when you walk is normal, since you are leveled on air.

Some have removed the old auxiliary air compressor and installed something new that is quieter and works better. I have not done that at this stage.

14 minutes ago, Ken Thompson said:

I have found a source to have Monaco Dynasty side and rear emblems reproduced. They will be laser cut out of 1/8” thick polished stainless steel. The 1/8” edges will not be polished so they will have a raw stainless steel finish. Each of our coaches have 2 side and 1 rear emblem. They will be as close to, or exact size as possible to cover up the existing emblem. If I have 12 emblems made, the cost would be $88 each, plus shipping from NW Oregon. The more we have done, the cheaper they will be. I think I will wait 2 weeks, until November 25th before placing the order to allow the word to get out, and people to contact me. I am not looking to make any money on these, just know I’m not the only one that has terrible looking emblems. Please email me at  ken@kenthompsonconstruction.com

Is the $88 for a set of three or for each piece?

I have a 2008 Monaco Dynasty with the chrome, three glass Ramco mirrors. I am trying to remove the mirror assembly to get the arms rechromed. I have removed the bolt that is at the base of the arm on the outside of the coach. I have also removed the two set screws at the base of the mirror. Everything is stuck solid. I have put a bit of silicone lubricant in the joints and have tapped with a rubber mallet. Solid and tight, seems there may be some corrosion internally that has frozen things. 

Anyone have a suggestion? When looking inside the generator bay, there are two threaded bolts sticking out. It seems there should be four, but if there are two others, they are above the point of being accessed from the generator bay. I have not taken the nuts off these yet. Was hoping to be able to remove the mirror head first. Anyone have any suggestions?

Good to hear. I was able to get 20 or so from Atwood several years ago. I will keep this in mind when my supply runs out.

My rear camera does not have an audio. I will look into noise filters to see if I can find something that may work. I appreciate the advice, Tom.

I have the same problem on a 2008 Dynasty. The sound follows the engine RPM’s. It increases and decreases as we drive. If I remove the radio fuse, it stops. Of course, this also disables the rear camera. There is a rat’s nest of wiring up under the dash.

I do mine each year, regardless of miles. We do travel 5,000 or so each year. The spec is CK4. I buy it at Tractor Supply in five gallon buckets. This past Summer, it was on sale for $59 for a five gallon bucket. 
 

As far as I know, CK4 is CK4. Anyone counter that belief?

I had the same problem with my 08 Dynasty last week, except it was on the right side. Your leveling valve needs replaced. There are three of these valves on your coach, one in the front and two in the rear. The rear ones are located just behind and above the drive axle. I went to a truck parts supply company and they said the valve is obsolete and was replaced with 6300BFAB13 at a cost of $127 each. However, they had only four in their warehouse and said those ones were discontinued. The only difference is the air connect ports on the replacement valve are 3/8" versus the 1/2" required to fit your air lines. I went to Fluid Dynamics and got adapters to go from 3/8 to 1/2. These are just plastic inserts.

Since I am unsure whether there will be another replacement, I bought three of the four valves they had. The adjustment needs to be set with the engine running and in travel mode. The distance between the air bag mounting plates needs to be 8".

If there is no leak in the system, you most likely have a situation where the pump is bleeding back into the fresh tank. The best way to solve that is to cut the pex coming from the fresh tank to the pump and install a Sharkbite check valve in that line. That solved the problem for me.

Thanks for this information. I may have to do that as well. I will play around and see what other input I receive. If I find the solution, I will let you know.

We have the five button door entry keypad that is on most of the Coburg built motorhomes. Lately, the door has been locking at random times, without anyone pressing a door lock button or key fob. Have any of you experienced this? If so, what did you find the cause to be?