1nolaguy

As a follow up to Phil Carrell's comment, if you have not recently changed your fuel filters when was the last time they were changed? Reduction in fuel because of fowled filters can cause these symptoms too.

Thanks, I will give that a try. We actually never use the map lights or should I say they have never worked. They just were not a high priority item. Will give this a try this weekend.

Tom, thanks for the link. I did not see these when last I looked. They will really come in handy.

5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Do you have the prints?  The map lights are always called out.  The Windsor/Camelot/Scepter prints are close…based on what s member, who had the prints, posted. Are they in the back of your manual?

Did a search.  Here is the 04….from our files.  Probably close as those years had very little change and Monaco was working on upgrading the Dynasty circuits and left the rest alone…

 

As a rule of thumb, it is just better when you are going to exercise your generator, and you are plugged into shore power, turn off the breakers at the pedestal before you start the generator and cut off the generator before you turn on the breakers again. That keeps the systems separate and  buts less strain on the transfer switch.

The lamp in the passenger map light (goose neck 4w light attached to curbside arm rest) burned out. In checking to change I discovered the lamp housing socket was damaged (partly melted) suggesting a short. I got a new fixture (LED) to replace it but when checking the wiring I see the the voltage is 128 mili-amps so something is up. Any suggestion as to what fuse this is on and where it is located? Also, may be a bad ground?

Great suggestion Martin. Thanks for also sharing the link. Todd is correct, this is a much quicker and easier approach.

Assuming you have an on-board generator, consider exercising it when you move. I generally do this once month when moving from one CG to another. I try to run the generator while on the freeway so it gets good air exchange and I run the A/C or Heat Pump as a load about the last 15-20 minutes before I get to my stop to cool down or warm up the living quarters as needed.

17 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Try a amp meter at the breaker in the panel, see if it’s drawing any amps. 

Tim, not sure if you are referring to the 12v or 120V but I had not thought of that. If the electric element is not working I should not have any amp draw, correct?

I can only speak to our experience. Our 2005 Safari came with a Splendee combo unit that was OEM. I do not know how much use it got from the previous two owners but I suspect it was little because of how they both used the RV. We us it pretty often, though we occasionally also use CG laundry when we have large loads like blankets and sheets. When traveling we usually use once or twice a week for small loads. Ours is vented outside. While I had to rebuild the floor beneath it It has served us well. I would likely buy it again when this one dies. Note: if you are putting in a new W/D in a rig that has not had one. check the closet floor where you plan to install it. Ours was made of particle board. I replaced it with 3/4" plywood. same weight and much more substantial.

Bob, I cleaned out all of the lines during the overhaul. Unless bugs moved in during the last 30 days this is probably not the case but worth a double check.

Rick, I replaced the limit switches (aka thermostat and EOC) during the overhaul also.

9 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

You can swap the 12v and 120v switches as they both are 12v rated to check if the switch is faulty or not. Then check if the 120v is coming on at the element. 
These steps will help identify the cause of the problem. 

Thanks Martin, I had not thought of swapping out the switches to est them.

I recently did a fairly extensive rebuild on our Atwood LP/ELEC (2004 build) 10 gal HWH. I replaced the thermostat, ECO, CB and gas valve. Basically everything on the outside. Since doing this I found the  Electric side was not working so assumed the element had go out but have not changed it yet. The light at the control panel switch for 120v does light up. I just mention this as an FYI.

The 12v / LP seems to work fine except it occasionally does not. When I turn on the switch at the control panel inside I can hear the LP cut on and the HWH works but occasionally the DSI Fault light comes on and the HWH does not light. I am not sure if these two things are related (LP issue vs 120V) of if this is two different things. As to the DSI Fault, if the system was not all new I would say perhaps there was a partial blockage in the LP line on the furnace tube (also cleaned out with the refit). Since this is intermittent (does not occur all the time) I am wondering if it is switch related or should I be looking again on the CB. Any thought?

Thank you for sharing this. Although I always check air pressure and routinely examine my tires I must admit I pay little attention to the rims unless I am cleaning them when I wash the coach. They will now become part of my regular tire check.

On 10/21/2023 at 8:43 PM, Ivan K said:

So there is no chance that you have dual lamps for brake and park and they just have to be reversed?

No, These work and have worked fine since those were changed over a year ago. Note: the regular brake/tail lights are Halogen as I could not find an LED that worked well (bright enough).

Update: I have not had a chance to check this out yet as we ran into other , more pressing plumbing issues. Will be fixing the the last of the plumbing issues today as well as diving back into the electric issues. We leave in two days so I want to get to the bottom of this today.

I'm no expert but those look like stress fractures.

OK, I found this post on the internet that as of June 2023 seems to give a definitive head to head comparison of Sun Pass, Sun Pass Pro, Mini Sun Pass, EZ pass, Uni Pass, and some others. hope you find this helpful in any decision on toll pass programs.

https://travelmagma.com/uni-pass-vs-sunpass-pro/

While some folks go to the expense of carrying an extra water pump. If you regularly stay in CGs with hook ups a quick cheap option is to keep a couple of 1/2" plastic pipe thread plugs on hand in your rig . 

I recently had my Shurflo 12v water pump start leaking pretty severely. Since I am in the boonies ( but at a park with hookups) I could not easily go to a local supply to pick up a replacement and ordering one on line would take a week to reach me. With water hooked up to the CG source the pump leaked and with the pump connected to the tank it leaked. My easy short term solution was two 1/2" MIP plastic plugs ( cost about $3) I connected one to the pex FIP fitting at the inlet to the pump and the other at the pex FIP fitting at the outlet of the pump. This sealed off the water from both the tank and the CG side to the pump. This stops the leak and allows continued use of CG water until the pump can be replaced. Also -FYI- this is the same plug size that is used in the Atwood water heater.

This has really been a good topic and in the midst of the discussion I realized I got rid of one car on the system and bought a new one that was not yet added. Tomorrow I am going to contact Sun Pass or go to the website to see whats what.

1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

Well I have a SunPass and it’s on the car windshield and it’s the sticker style pass. I got a receipt from SunPass after going to WI thru IL. I was surprised it worked up there. Keep in mind it’s on the car. My bill showed 5 axles. I do have the mh tied to the SunPass as one of the vehicles. SunPass told me originally the pass I had shouldn’t have worked up there because of the type of pass it was. I had the same issue of being charge for 5 axles in FL on the most northern leg of the Suncoast Hwy north of 50 up to 44 in FL. Anyway I guess IL did a charge by plate and I was told by SunPass to get that to register as a  2 axle mh I would have to send them a copy of my registration. Too much BS! Looking for something easier. 

I believe ( verify with SunPass) the sticker passes are only good in Florida and perhaps Georgia. For greater state access you need the Sunpass Pro (movable with suction cups. There is no difference in the rates or how billing is handles, etc. I think it only has to do with the transponder. The PRO version give a reflective signal while the peal and stick is just recognized by AI in the photo.

Tom the whole house system I have I already owned so not real added expense although I did treat myself to quick disconnects (lol). The system is rated at a through put of 10 gpm with new cartridges so even at half capacity I am well within the RV system requirements. I added the softener as I was in so high hardness areas and its maintenance is easier that trying to descale the HWH. Also no scum in the bath or washing machine. The one thing about a whole house system is mine sits outside so has to be brought in in freezing weather (so should your adjustable pressure valve or you can ruin the gauge ( this from experience), The softener fits neatly in a side compartment of the wet bay so only gets moved during regeneration. I change filter cartridges 2x a year and regenerate the softener about the same. I test the water at the kitchen tap once a month for hardness just in case. Enough about my system.

29 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Uni pass: Two thumbs up!! Buy one for the MH and one for the Toad.  Keep Toad transponder in the foil bag until driving it solo.  Bought mine on the EZPass website in Orlando, although I am a Georgia resident. $15 each. Had them 3 years. Only had to dispute one toll with PA... a charge of $124 that I eventually got an $87 credit against, which EZPass then credited back to my credit card on file.  So convenient, and no stopping.  No ridiculous surcharges for "Bill-to-License-Plate".

Steve, Interesting comment about keeping transponder of toad in a foil bag until needed. As noted above with my exchange with Tom Cheery the EZ-Pass CS told me I needed both if I was towing a toad. Of course that is CS which might or might not be correct. I have two transponders but if I only need the one when towing, without a greater charge, I would like to know more about your experience. Either way the convenience is worth it.

Thanks Tom. I too use a VALTERRA adjustable. MY concern is that I have it set at 55# and the pump is rated at 45# so I was wondering if added back pressure from the "city side" contributed to the failure. Also, FYI-  I run all potable water through a two stage whole house filter (0.5 carbon block polish) and then through a softener before it goes in the rig. Everyone is different. I spent years in the industrial water treatment business so this was what I decided for my set up. Thanks for the REMCO recommendation.

Tom, yes and no. What I was told by the Sun Pass/ EZ pass customer service when I called was there were options. A) I could buy one transponder and placed it in the RV with a toad. It would have to be set up as a 4 axle vehicle. If I drove the toad with the same transponder it to would be treated as 4 axle also. If I drove the RV and my wife followed behind in the toad, as in a short move in Florida, The RV would still register as 4 axles and the car would be picked up as a photo toll (more expensive and a hassle). If I got two transponders, one for each vehicle the RV (ours has 6 wheels but two axles- no tag axle) each would be registered as a two axle vehicle. The later version was said to be of less expensive in the long run and less of a hassle. There was of course the added $15 up front for the extra transponder.

Of course you can go on line each time you change your vehicle configuration to change your set up but in MHO that is a major pain in the butt. For me, spending the extra $15 was worth not having the hassle, time or having to keep tract of the changes. I guess it all depends on your budget and how much you move around or where you stay. In Central Florida, for me, it was definitely worth the cost.

1 hour ago, redstickbill said:

Loel,

I purchased the brass 1/2" check valve at Home Depot, it has SharkBite ends, I also had to purchase two flex hoses to get everything together with the check valve in the same position as the OEM valve. For me it was a tight working area and I have the bruises on my arms to prove it, not exactly fun for an old guy.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

Where did you put the check valve? Between the tank and pums or on the city/tank fill side to serve as a back flow preventer?

We have had for several years, originally purchased in Florida. You need one for the RV and one for the toad; they are charged separately. At first I thought this was crappy on there part but then realized I needed it when running about with the toad separate from the RV.

Its a one time charge for the transponder (no batteries needed) and the more expensive one ($15) is held on with suction cups for if needed it can be moved to a different vehicle/RV. You assign a cc and it is charged in increment that are set by you. We set them at $20, so you periodically will have the cc charged as you use up the credit on each transponder. Each time you will get an email confirmation of the charge. IN each vehicle I put the transponder up near the top center of the windshield so it has no effect on visibility. The biggest drawback is when I forget it in one vehicle when I am driving a different on. IMO it would be great if all toll programs (bridges, etc) used this same system nation wide. Also, occasionally the  suction cups loose hold and the transponder falls off. Wetting the cups first helps.

UP DATE: Well it stopped raining and dryed up enough to go outside and crawl around on the ground. It looks like it is going to be less of a problem than I thought.

The leak is on the front side of the pump, looks like a plug of sorts. It was wet after I refilled the FW tank. and was dripping down over the electrical connection and to teh wet bay floor. When I opened the other side, which also had leaking, The connections and pex for the FW tank, as well as the BT and GT were dry. only the floor was wet. Turns out the wet bay on our model is roto-molded as one piece, side to side. Apparently the leak was collecting on the wet bay (driver's side) and flowing along the bottom to the tank (passenger side) along the bay floor and then leaking out the whole the tank overflow passes through. So time to change the pump. I have a Sureflo 10-422-144 2.0 or 2.8 gpm 12 vdc 45 psi pump. Should I replace with the same or is something else recommended?

Also, I realize now I may be the cause of the problem as I have always kept the incoming pressure at 50 psi so that may have put extra strain on the pump.

2 hours ago, BradHend said:

Perhaps I’m misunderstanding, but if the reservoir tank was overflowing, then did you not just have the valve set to fill the tank instead of city supply and there actually is no issue?

 

Brad, sorry I was not clear. The valve setting was on City Water not Tank Fill, but the overflow seemed to be coming from the tank. I made the assumption that the valve had failed allowing some water to go directly to the system while some was also going to the tank resulting in over low. In the light of day I was also concerned that I might have a leak at the tank but the tank held over night at 50%. I had been drawing down last night as we used water from the tank and the pump would run continuously as long as it was on so now I am thinking it may be a pump related issue and or a line from the pump to some where in the system. It has been raining all morning so I have yet to go out and explore the issue further.

1 hour ago, redstickbill said:

The pump running after shutting the water off at the spigot indicates , to me, that you have a failed check valve between the fresh water holding tank and the pump discharge.

I recently had the same problem , changed out the check valve and problem solved. Bought a brass 1/2" check valve at Home Depot.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

Bill, thanks. I will look at this first as soon as the rain stops. Did you find your replacement check valve on Amazon? I am about 20-30 miles from any hardware or big box store so may need to order parts. Probably also will order new pump while I am at it just to have as a back up. The one currently in use is OEM so 18 years old.