1nolaguy

We had a similar issue. In fact the unit would actually move around in the cabinet at times. I eventually pulled out the Splenddide, with the help of my brother-in-law as the unit is very heavy. It was sitting in a cabinet behind the toilet and off the floor. It turns out the floor was made of 3/4" particle board with vinyl wood grain shelf baper as a water barrier. Also the back edge of the floor was not supported. As a result and with general moisture the floor had warped or dished out. I replaced the floor with 3/4" treated ply and reinforced the support 1X1s that hold up the floor adding additional new screws. Lastly I added a 2X4 on edge at teh back of the floor for added support. While out I cleaned the cavity and replaced the water and vent hoses. I covered the floor with a solid vinyl piece that go a couple of inches up the what on each side and used a piece of 1" aluminum angle on the front and back edge. This might have been over kill but I figured while at it I might as well do it first class. Also, the Al front edge protected the vinyl while replacing the unit.

I did this about a year ago and have used the unit many times since then. While we get a bit of vibration when the unit spins it is from the chassis as the unit sits over the tail of the RV.

As a side note, Last month I replaced the Norcold 1200 and it too was mo the same type of particle board floor with 1X1" supports. How this held up all that weight through all that road travel for 18 years is beside me.

I know better concerning shutting off the incoming water when I leave the site but yesterday we took a day trip and I forgot to turn off the water at the spigot. When we got back there was water dripping heavily out of the tank overflow and at the pump low point drain. I cut off water at the spigot and the dripping stopped several minutes later. Since it was late I switched the diverter to tank thinking I would use the pump over night and deal with the issue in the AM. While this "worked" the pump rand continuously while turned on. SO now , while I thought it was the diverter valve that directs incoming water to the rig or the pump it may be (also?) the pump itself.

Any recommendation as to where I should look first? NOTE: bays are all dry except a little splashing in the wet bay near the pump and pump low point valve. Fresh water tank went from full to 1/2 full. 

3 hours ago, Steve P said:

The backlights on my individual analog gages such as rpms speedometer etc. are not working.  The headlights work,andy overhead light work when you twist the knob to the left although it is a little flaky and stubborn.  I checked the front run bay driver side fuses - the dash gauge fuse and the panel lamp fuse and both are good.  I'm studying The wiring diagrams to see if it could be anything else other than the headlight switch. Maybe someone with prior experience could offer advice?  Or ask me diagnostic questions? 

Humble thanks, 

Steve

I had a similar issue with the dash lights of our 2005 Safari Cheetah. I replaced the headlight switch and that solved the problem.

Thx!

1 hour ago, Ron Shantos said:

Look here:

https://rveliteparts.com/products/rev-rv-10115170-louvered-dash-vent-4-hole?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=mid-performers&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwnOipBhBQEiwACyGLuvsmJbmLHzFWmthMXXxbI52Hk8brtYdQ5GGR3zi6pbM5oZ1mNinFZxoCb10QAvD_BwE

Thanks ! this is close to me too.

I am guessing these are probably common for this age coach but ours are starting to show stress cracks at screws. Any suggestions on sources for replacing them with new ones?

31 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Same here (Gweedo's comment).  I run a Harbor Freight Predator 3500 because I don't like the noise & rumble of the house generator.  Go ahead, call me a snob!  But then I haul a trailer to put the Predator in so space isn't an issue.  When I get to my campsite (cow pasture) I haul out the Predator, hook it up and run off the inverter until the batteries get low, then start the Predator (unless I need the microwave).  This is usually not until the next day.

I first started out with a Honda 2000 but when I arrived it would max out the Honda doing a "force charge" on the batteries.  This would happen every time I connect to shore power (ie Honda) and I can't find a way to go straight to float charging.  The batts are at full charge when I arrive (Xantrex 458 inverter). 

The Predator 3500 is 100 lbs.  The Honda 2200 is a manageable 60 lbs, and there's a "special" gas cap where you can siphon from a larger 5 gal container. 

You can pick up multiple sizes of Predators (2000, 3500, 5000?) through Facebook Marketplace from scratch & dent and "lightly used" sellers.  Sounds sketchy, I know, but that's where mine came from and I would do it again saving hundreds.  Turns out you can buy at Harbor Freight, use it for a weekend, then turn it back in for a full no-questions-asked refund.  They can't sell it so they offload them by the pallet load.  I did my best to research the seller (local, American name, long FB history) and literally met the guy at a storage facility where he had them stacked up in a 10x10.  Mine had zero hours on it (scratched somewhere).   

- snobby bob

Bob, you might try an inline 12v to 12 v DC to DC converter to limit what is going to the batteries. I would install it at the batteries (bay). That would leave you something for other purposes, even with a 2kw generator.

41 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Well now, you've got a LOT of information.  There is NO STANDARD or best way....whatever works for you as well as your needs and the restrictions on where you boondock.  I was asked to write up a paper on batteries....as I often offered advice....so here is the link.

FWIW....and this is MY opinion, however, it is also the opinion of a LOT of seasoned members.  Batteries are like "fine ladies".....and one's tastes will dictate....but also they have some needs, which can become quite high....  SO...This is MY TAKE....  and others may not agree or they have special situations.

Flooded cell batteries, especially the high end or the GOLD STANDARD (Trojan T-105) are the BEST and MOST COST EFFECTIVE battery.  They don't cost that much more than the next level Interstates.  They last a lot longer than the "brands" sold by Batteries Plus.  We have many members, one in particular, that is going on 10 years on a bank.  We all, to get that life, have an accurate hydrometer and VOM and exercise them at least twice a year.  We use Water Miser caps (Amazon) and rarely add more than an ounce to each sell when we test and exercise. I like a wooden gauge...which is outlined, as my old eyes are excellent for a 78 YO Male.  BUT, having a simple dip stick to get the electrolyte level about 60% of the way between the bottom of the well and the plates is easy.  Trojan NOW has a well designed well with a FILL TO HERE mark.  THEY LEARNED.

AGM's are often a second choice.  However, if you GOOF or have an equipment failure, the results can be costly.  They are NOT as robust as the Flooded cells.  YES, they are used on higher end coaches and such and commercial units.  BUT, if you don't exercise them and keep your Inverter charger set for the RIGHT profile...then they can fail prematurely.  We often have topics where "I bought AGM's and they failed quicker than my old flooded..." and the cause is usually lack of exercising and or not knowing HOW to set up or properly charge them.  WHATEVER YOU DO....Trojan recommends NOT Equalizing any BATTERY...Flooded as the last resort.. but IF you equalize AGM's, say good bye and have your credit card ready....not tomorrow, but within a year or two.

Lithium.  Wonderful technology and evolving. Problem is, that unless you have a newer inverter, you may NOT be able to properly charge them. Most of our Lithium experts recommend specific DC to DC chargers and do NOT let the Lithiums charge from the OEM or replacement inverter/chargers.  THAT is a gross and maybe incorrect overview....but for my needs....I don't do that much dry camping....and am satisfied from a performance and price (value) with my Trojans.  IF you need this, then PLEASE DO A LOT OF READING and SEARCHING HERE...we DO have experts...

NOW...the RULE of thumb... and this was and has been a topic at a lot of our Gatherings....regarding Boondocking and especially conversions to residential refrigerators is this.  Convert to ALL LED overheads.  Fluorescents are OK...but some will turn off one fixture if there are 3 in the living area.  Put the home entertainment systems on a power (Surge) strip and TURN THEM OFF THERE....standby sucks up juice. With a normal, good set of 4 flooded cells, you need to only run the Genny 3 or so hours every 24 hours.  The icemaker should be cut off and use the "LOW or ENERGY EFFICIENCY" mode if the res refer has that.  

The rest....  just one comment.  I know folks that do a lot of tailgating.  Purchasing two Honda 2200's would be almost $3500 with the parallel hookups....and the off brands are usually good. Your needs and the surrounding rules or environment should be taken into account.  The cost of running is about the same.  The 7.5 or 8.0 Onan uses, typically, 0.5 GPM.  YES, it will be higher when you are on full charge.  So, figure 2 gallons per 3 hours of charging.  Then compare that to around 3 gallons for the Honda's.  

NOW, if you need FULL TIME POWER and can't exist off of inverted, then that is a different scenario.  Many folks have solar farms on their roofs.  They camp where they can, usually, be in full sun.  But, the cost of them adds up.  

So, it is a dollar evaluation versus needs and looking at alternatives.

I have dry camped for several extended periods at festivals and in NP's, one of which has ODD hours and very restrictive conditions....like no more than 3 hours but you can do it twice a day. I added the Magnum "Auxillary" start harness ($15) and a simple DC 24 hour programmable timer ($25) and started my Genny for 1.5 hours twice a day....and we were STILL free to go out and enjoy the park....so that was a good "investment and solution" for me.

As to the AGS and run down....read the paper.  Generally speaking, folks make a mistake or misunderstand the charts.  When you allow the AGS to start the Genny, you are usually under a load.  The "Under Load" voltage is usually 0.1 to 0.2 VDC LOWER than the RECOVERY or when there is NO LOAD (relatively speaking) on the bank.  So, in reality....you should be able to set the AGS to say 11.8 or so....then the AGS kicks in and you recharge.  Typically 3 to 3.5 hours for a 4 battery bank.  Setting it at 12 VDC actually hurts, from a long range standpoint, the life of a battery.  Better to run the batteries down to 12.0....RECOVERY, not AGS setting which is 50%.  Some say even 11.9 RECOVERY...which would, typically, equate to 11.7 on the AGS.  NEVER lower....as you might NOT have enough juice to crank the genny.

Hope this helps.  I also hope no one takes offense at my summations of the alternatives....this is my understanding and folks that have special needs or such are really creative and knowledgeable....

 

Note about comment concerning older inverters, according to Xantrex (I had this conversation with their Tech Specialist) the Freedom 485 will charge LPO batteries but because I run a residential fridge and other electronics (ie CPAP, etc.) I invested in a new pure sine inverter (several makes including Xantrex, Magna, Growatt, Aims, etc) have models that can easily replace you Freedom 485 if needed.

Steve, welcome on board. All of the information given above is excellent.  In addition you might watch some Youtube vlogs on the subject. There are many on boone docking (BD) but only a few on BD with a Class A. In particular you might check out Our Next Exit and Today Is Someday.

Based on personal experience I found switch from Lead Acid (LA) to Lithium (LFP) or LiFePO4) batteries was important. More important than solar. LFP has dropped a lot in the last year or two so it is now cost effective. Many promote Battle Born, which are great batteries at about $1000 per 100 Ahr but there are now dependable other options including SOK at about $600 for the same 100 AHr or even LiTime for about $350 for the same 100 AHr. I recently added two TWV 100 AHr mini LFP batteries for $500 delivered.  While these lower priced batteries may have shorter warranties or fewer cycles the difference in cost off sets that, especially if you are not full time and BD all the time. LFP adds capacity while reducing weight. There is one catch,  LFP batteries have a much flatter state of charge (SOC) so will go from usable voltage to insufficient voltage in a heart beat. Power will cut off in a instant when your voltage drops too low rather than gradually as with LA. On the other hand LFP batteries charge much quicker than LA so while to charge you LFP batteries may take 2-4 hours of running the generator it my take 8 to 24 hours to charge your LAs depending on capacity of your system.

1) My recommendation, if you choose LFP, is to definitely install a battery shunt monitor so you can see your actual SOC. Second is to consider adding a gen auto start. Most generators use the house batteries for start power so when the batteries are too low it is also too late to start your generator.

2) Motor homes are the most like stick and brick homes when it comes to RVing. As a result there are many of parasitic electrical draws, in including your inverter. If your RV is like mine (Cheetah 40 DHT) the inverter has to be on for most of the 110v outlets to work. There are a few that require gen. or to be plugged in.

3) When looking at BD consider weather and fuel cost. Batteries will not run your A/Cs so unless you love the heat and or humidity take the weather where you are going into consideration. Some folks love BD for being remote and alone in the quiet and in nature. For some its about saving money (no camping fees). For the latter group you need to keep in mind fuel cost. A generator on a class A uses 1/3rd or more gal of fuel per hour. If you are diesel that is $4-6 per gallon so you can easily use $20-72 of fuel a day running you generator.

After 6 years of RVing we now only BD in cooler month or northern geography whether the weather is dry and temps are below 70. Remember that 70 outside can mid 80s of hoter inside if your windows are closed and the fans/vents are closed. Other than the occasional over night lot-docking (Walmart/ Cracker Barrel) when in route or at at Harvest Host we tend to use camp grounds. We spend much of our time in the coastal south of the US so for us weather is a major factor.

Hope this all helps in your decision process.

Thanks Dave. I'll check this out tomorrow. Long day behind the wheel today.

Yep, I figured that is where I would start looking tomorrow.

4 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

So there is no chance that you have dual lamps for brake and park and they just have to be reversed?

The taillights are 3 wire (two elements) so normally with head lights on there is one element glowing and when the brakes are applied there are 2 elements. Standard old halogen/incandescent lights (type 1157).

OK, I am stumped with this one. I was not sure where to post so if this should be moved I ask the moderator to please do so. So I did not have this issue before but just occurred when I took our MH (2005 Safari Cheetah 40' DP) out of storage. When I turn on the headlights the The marker lights and break lights are on bright as if the brakes are applied. As a result, when I apply the brakes there is no visible indication as the lights are already "bright". If however I turn off the headlights all the marker and tail lights work as they should. Normally I would say this is not a big issue as I hate driving at night but my DW wants me to run  the light during the day for"safety" reasons, which of course would not be an issue if I also had brake lights.

Now in full disclosure about nothing in the lighting system is original. I replaced the headlights and marker lights with LEDs' but the wiring is the same as the original. I replaced the headlight switch in the dash about 3 years ago. I also have a 60" led brake light strip but that is plugged into the 4 pin connector in the rear. All of these mods were made with everything still working correctly. It has only after an 8 month storage period that the issue occurred. I am going to try to trouble shoot this tomorrow while we have a down day at an RV park. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Check your Engine Brake. If it is on (switch near driver) turn it off. Let engine cool a bit and restart. You may need to blow out some soot but if this is the problem it should clear in a few minutes and then run fine.

I am not sure of the details but I had this issue several times about a year ago when going through Mobile Al at surface street speeds. Engine started belching sooty smoke and lost power. The more I tried to gun it the more soot it belched. I pulled to the side and a trucker pulled behind me. It took him a minute the find the issue. The exhaust bake switch was engaged. I had not use the exaust brake since and yesterday I switched it on to help me slow down coming off a steep bridge on I-10. Engine started belching soot and lost power. switched off the EB and with in 30 seconds I was at interstate speed with no issues. As always YMMV.

I got mine on amazon about 4 years ago. Came as a pair amber and clear, for about $7.

As another point of reference, there are a lot of Youtube videos on this subject that you can also reference. As they say "a picture is worth 1k words".

6 hours ago, saflyer said:

Think I could find a three story building and hold the hose all the way up to the roof then bour buckets of bleach water down the hose. Kidding but it might work. 
Wonder about something like the containers you attach to a hose and put weed killer in to meter with the water flow. If you could use one of those if it could be adjusted to mix 1 cup bleach with every 50 gallons of water flow?

MartinVZ posted a link for a gizmo that would solve your problem. Connect at the spigot and it will sanitize everything down stream. Alternately you can just put bleach water in a 5 gal. bucket and submerge your hose, etc in the water until sanitized.

This may be in the wrong area and if so would the moderator please move it to the appropriate area.

We have been discussing an extended trip to Europe and the UK for 2025. Considering the cost of hotels etc. were are now debating the viability of renting/buying an RV in Europe for the 6-8 mo we plan to be there, We would then sell it over there. Alternately we would ship ours each way, or possibly sell it there and buy another one when we get home.

Our travel itinerary would include some or all of the following countries: UK, Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland, Italy and possibly Czech Republic,

Has anyone in the group done this before? If so, what is your views on the best (and most cost effective) approach, Are there any special modification, such as electrical to be considered? I you have experience RV'ing in Europe and would you be willing to share more extensively your experiences, via PM, email or phone call please advise.

I think we may even have some members that have bought Monacos in the US and shipped them home to Europe. Their guidance would also be very much appreciated.

Ed, normally I would say there is no need to empty you HWH and sanitize it as the hot water will kill any bacteria or viruses but RV HWHs only get to 140 (preset thermostat) and water should be held at 160 deg F for 30 min. to sanitize it. I would suggest sanitizing the fresh water tank at 1 cup household bleach per 50 gal of water for 3 hr minimum. Draw through pipes until you smell bleach and let sit for 3 Hr minimum. Turn off HWH and run water pump until you smell bleach at the HW taps and hold for 3 hr min. This can all be done at the same time so you are only without HW for about 4 hr total. I tend to do this in the evening and leave bleach in the system over night. Note: after you turn off HWH run untreated water through until temperature is equalized before treating with bleach water. This is to protect internal components of HWH. After treatment, flush system thoroughly with fresh clean water ( this may mean going else where or waiting until boil advisory is lifted). Also, unless your party includes someone with immunity issues or highly susceptible to infection, you can still use your water system" as is" for toilet, bathing, laundry (if you have a washing machine on board) etc. and then sanitize after the boil ban is past.

Note: This is just my opinion.

NOTE: if you have a filter in your system remove cartridges prior to treatment and replace after treatment. Chlorine can eaisly be added to your system via the empty filter housings. Be sure to treat pressure regulator, hose and filter housing system as part of your sanitizing process or you run the risk of re-contaminating the system after you treatment procedure.

Thanks! I believe that is a standard size for US pressure washers so what fit your will most likely fit others.

7 hours ago, Rico K 2005 Knight said:

Hi everyone. Rico K here. 

I was searching for help with my black water level sensors always reading full. I did find some good information on here that gave me an idea on how to correct the problem so I thought I would post my repair tactics. What I read was that it's most likely debris/toilet paper stuck to the sides and sensors. I eyeballed where the sensors are located in relation to the toilet ball drain and they line up very close. I removed the straight nozzle on my power washer and installed a tight 90 degree fitting and added the nozzle back on. Then I went down through the toilet drain and power washed the sensors and inside of the tank. Problem solved instantly. 

Just remember it must be a very tight 90 degree fitting or it won't go down the drain. Took me 2 attempts. Cheers.

Just to let everyone know. My problem with my warning beeper was my oil pressure sending unit. It was still reading proper pressure but being a VDO sensor it has 2 connections. 1 side of the sensor was bad.

Part #VDO 360 023

CHEERS.

Just out of curiosity Rico What size fitting did you use (ie: Male to female 3/8" FPT) and what size spray nozzle? I am concerned anything tighter than 18deg spray might damage the walls of the tank.

What jdw12345 said. Looks like my 2005 DP also. I too use Diesel Kleen each fuel stop. Note, if you ride with your engine brake engaged, especially at low RPM you will get more soot.

FYI - I am not sure about post 2008 DPs that use DEF but earlier models this looks normal.

As a side comment - Next weekend I am planning to remove our Norcold 1200 to replace it with a residential unit. It is a 2005 model and may still be of value for parts (no ammonia leaks etc). I am replacing it as we now have the battery capacity to comfortably run a residential model and I am tired of dealing with inadequate cooling in the gulf south where we spend most of our time. If anyone in the group is interested in parts or whole the unit is in the area of Gulfport Ms., free for pick up. Please PM me so we can discuss details if interested.

Tom, you are so right. As much as we may complain about the accuracy of today's GPS technology , relative to the days of paper maps and hand drawn directions things are much more accurate if not better.

Yes. As noted before I think it is sloppy programing in their logarithms.

I have had similar issues with my Garmin 890 since I bought it last year. It is not essentially an expensive dash ornament. I trust it less than Google maps. In addition to the problems noted above I find the Garmin, like Google Maps, will reroute me on its own to its default route regardless of the way-points I put in, sometimes onto non-big rig friendly roads. Often this is do to the "live update" function that is suppose to reroute in the event of traffic or accident. I am not sure but suspect that rather than maintaining there own system they have found it cheaper to "buy" up grades from google with hopes of modifying using a logarithm  to modify routes to size specific vehicles but the logarithm is faulty resulting in the glitches noted above. Garmin was once the premier gps but in recent years it seams all the focus has been on bells and whistles  like larger screens and 3D and less on the core functions.

Lee, we have a 2005 Safari Cheetah which is similar to yours. Our Power Gear leveling system is not auto level but is three point. Our instructed system is also similar: Cut off engine to extend slides, dump air, restart engine to level. I think this may be because the leveling system and the slides are 12v using the chassis batteries and so the engine running is required for the alternator to assist in carrying the electrical load. I do not know this for a fact just a supposition. the Roadmaster chassis has an air support system that keeps the "house" level as long as the chassis is relatively level. Slides are to be deployed while the air suspension is aired up to prevent torquing of the chassis and slides during weight shift. Once slides are diploid the coach is aired down to lower coach chassis and minimize required travel for the jacks maximizing the possible lift travel chassis to ground. There are safeguards built in to prevent the slides from deploying while the engine is running, thus the stopping the engine t

This may or may not help but just a few suggestions to check out:

1) It is likely your chassis batteries are not charged when you are plugged in. In our 2005, also with a Xantrex I/C the chassis batteries are completely seperate from the house batteries. Even though there is a momentary switch to assist the coach batteries with the house batteries if there is an issue starting the engine the only charge to the chassis batteries is an external charger or the alternator (when the engine is running). As a result you may need an external trickle charger.

2) If residential fridge is connected through circuit connected to the I/C it may go through the GFCI and that is tripping.

3) As noted above - check your neutrals and connections including circuit panel and auto transfer switch to make sure connections are solid.