Lee Smith

I have communicated with RF Mogul. I talked with them on Friday and sent a text today asking for advice on what to do about the RFM-21000 System to get it working with Dish Network. They have been very responsive but while waiting to hear back I was able to Google search and find out what looks like all of the information that I need.

Unfortunately, I will not be able to salvage my version of the RF Mogul system.

It turns out that in August of 2015 Dish made a programming change that made it impossible for the Mogul Gen 1 RFM 2100 to lock onto the Dish satellites. The Mogul Gen 1 was no longer being manufactured and the source code was not available to change the RFM-2100 to enable a satellite lock.

At that time (August 2015) RF Mogul explained the problem and offered a solution for all Gen 1 owners to transition to the new Eagle 3 system. According to the information I found, the Eagle 3 will directly bolt onto the RFM-2100 footprint and use the same control wire and coaxial cable. 

Therefore, it looks like a very reasonable solution is to upgrade to the Eagle 3.

If you are interested in the details, the following PDF download explains them:

RF Mogul Gen 1 End of Life Notice.pdf

I finished the research and found answers.

I found two RFM Mogul Eagle authorized sales companies. The file below shows the differences in the various the Eagle systems. There is an Eagle III Dish Network, an Eagle III Shaw Dish Network and the Eagle II Direct TV Network. It appears that they are the same antenna with different LNBs and associated mounts. They all use the Eagle II Controller. Here is the file for this:
RF Mogul Eagle III and Eagle II Comparisons.pdf

Additionally, the second RFM Mogul Eagle seller clearly shows the Eagle II Controller for all of the Eagle Systems. Here is a link for this:
http://comsec.ca/our-products/rf-mogul-rv-satellite-system/

Interestingly, the above site offers the complete RF Mogul Eagle System for quite a bit less than other advertisements. Installation is not included but most of this forum members will do their own installation. That includes me but I have a head start as I can reuse the mount, coax, and control cable from my existing RFM 2100 System.

Finally, the RF Mogul site manual download file only specifies the Eagle II controller as follows:
Eagle+Owners+Manual.pdf

A lot of information but I like to be sure before I order anything.

I think I have found the solution. Apparently, I will need to upgrade to the RF Mogul Eagle.
According to the following blog post, the Eagle is a pretty easy upgrade from the RF 4100 (Direct TV US):

https://memoryroads.blogspot.com/2012/09/satalite-tv-upgrades-motosat-or-rf-mogul.html

My system is actually the SHAW RFM-2100 (Direct TV Canada). The RFM-3100 (Dish TV US), the RF 4100 (Direct TV US) and the SHAW RFM-2100 (Direct TV Canada) all share the same 75cm antenna mount so my existing mount should work. I found a site that sells all three systems, but I think it is way out of date for purchasing anything but gives great information on all three systems:

http://www.precisesatellite.com/rf_mogul_data.html

Also, I found a manual for the RFM 1000 controller which I am pretty sure is the same as the RFM 1100 I have. Here is the manual for download:

RF Mogul 1000 Controller Manual.pdf

My current problem is that there are two versions of the RF Mogul Eagle out there: An Eagle II and an Eagle III. They both appear to use the Eagle II Controller. I will continue to research the two systems and post an answer when I find one.

My recent purchase of a 2004 Signature included a RF Mogul satellite antenna with an RFM 1100 Controller and two Shaw Direct TV Receivers. All basic functions work well, and the antenna is in very good working order. My goal is to add a Dish Network capable LNB and activate the system.

I need help locating a manual for the RFM 1100 controller.
I need advice on what LNB to use.
I would greatly appreciate any feedback and information from anyone who is currently using this model.

Additionally, I may want to upgrade the controller to the current model Eagle to use with my existing antenna. My antenna shows that it is HD capable, but I would be missing out on the 4K tv ability of the Eagle. Any thoughts on this?

Here are pictures of my system:

 

Thank you very much,

Lee 

I will replace the Oring.
Thank you very much for the answer.

My recently purchased 2004 Signature had a water leak onto the Aqua-Hot bay floor that originated where the domestic water supply lines connect to the boiler. I have been busy with many other things and finally got to this one. When I purchased the coach last April in Canada, I tested the Aqua Hot and noticed a brief period of white smoke and a small leak of domestic water. I saw that the system was plumbed with pex piping so I was not worried about fixing it when I got back to Virginia. Sure enough, the hot water domestic supply line from the boiler to the coach fixtures had a bad fitting. I replaced the fitting, and the leak was cured. Then when I started the system up, white smoke billowed out without stopping. I found a bad connection from the fuel filter to the coach diesel tank. I redid the connection, and the white smoke was nearly eliminated. My wife noticed air bubbles in the clear bowl of the Racor R12T fuel filter. There was an adjustment screw on the bottom of the bowl, so I turned it in slightly (which was all of the adjustment available). That reduced the air bubbles substantially but there was still a steady stream of small bubbles. The white smoke disappeared completely, and the boiler system now works without any flaws.

My questions:  Are the air bubbles part of the makeup air to prevent a vacuum lock in the fuel filter? If so, then what may or may not be the correct adjustment?
Here are pictures:
 

Additionally, I noticed that the interior surface of the fuel line was smooth for a short distance where it connected to the coach fuel tank.
I have never seen that before and I am curious as to what others may think.
Here is a picture of the piece I removed to fix the connection:

Thank you very much for your time,

Lee Smith 

30 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Hi Lee,

Yes, I'm guessing that's a capillary tube for temperature.  They probably deleted it for cost saving.

Your choices are to try reordering, keep the original part, or install the new one.  I think I'd try the new one.   

Good luck! 

Good advice. I ordered a new one. The original came from eBay caridautoparts and the new one, including green O-rings at .99 each, is from autohausaz. The caridautoparts eBay dealer was not even remotely interested in any kind of a timely resolution so I filed for a refund.
Thanks again,
Lee

On 5/4/2021 at 7:06 PM, vito.a said:

I just replaced our expansion valve last week.  It is up front above the generator.  It has two black AC hoses connected with some black A/C insulation foam over the B nuts. 

I first removed the hoses.  Then peeled back the insulation and broke the nuts loose and it came right off.  

I had to buy some new green orings when i reinstalled the new one.  

Part number: EGELHOF AC Expansion Valve 1268300384 / 0751.0003A 321300S

Picture attached.

Vito,
I ordered and received the part but it is different from what you installed.
The part number is the same but it is missing the attached probe at the end.
I assume that is some kind of a temperature probe but I wanted to check with you.
Please see my pictures attached.
Thank you for your help.
Lee

Really not sure as I have not traced the wire diagram out. 
However, I do know that the generator "clicks at 12.7 volts" and starts at anything over that.
 

On 6/18/2022 at 7:46 PM, vito.a said:

I replaced our dryer and expansion valve.  Pictures show the part numbers.  Both were common big truck parts and inexpensive.  

Vito,
I ordered the filter/dryer and installed it.
I just now ordered the expansion valve. I will install it next time the dash AC needs service.
Thank you so much for the part numbers.

Lee Smith

On 8/14/2022 at 5:09 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Many of us old “buggy whip guys” swear by Trojan.T105.  I have had many well versed electrical techs say the same thing.  When a customer brought in a fully depleted set of batteries.  The shops, one was Lazy Days, would suggest refilling and recharging…which they did. If they were the OEM Interstate, then they would say…NEW.  If the customer paid for a recharge, odds are, 80% of the time the customer came back for a bank of Trojans.  That is straight from a SR. Tech that worked for LD for 15 years and had a good reputation from some folks that knew about him and we trusted. He went to work locally for a buddy that was an HR GM and I got to know him.  Many of us have got 8+ years out of them, but we are meticulous in electrolyte level and exercise or run them down for 2 or 3 cycles every 4 x 6 months.  That is because we are not boon dockers and do that every month or so.  If you elect to go Wet Cell and choose the Trojans….you will bet, properly cared for, long life.  Not so much for Interstate.  My OEM, and I bought it new, batteries, Interstate, lasted maybe 4 years….and two of the four were TRASH.  One had a shorted cell…and the other had a cell that failed, but did not short out.

Last time I checked on the local price for a poster, a set or back of 4 would be less than $700.  Or, with tax, under $750 out of pocket plus you cores. Most folks with experience also change out the incandescent bulbs to reduce consumption and if they have a Res Refrigerator, turn off the ice and use the energy saver mode why dry camping.  We also put power strips on our home entertainment centers and turn off the power as standby will suck up a lot of juice.  We easily, with a 4 bank unit and a short daily recharge  have no issues  

that assumes you want the stock  size which will fit into the OEM space.  Trojan makes a HUNK battery that delivers about 25% more juice.  But it is the much taller one.  It typically requires mods like yanking out the battery tray and the  lugging in a 90+ pound monster and then you have to thread your head (dangerous) inside the bay to do maintenance.  They are about 60% more….so the small increase in capacity comes at a still price.

I am on my second set of Trajans or three banks total.  I have camped or used the MH heavily, not full timing, and have over 700 nights out.  67K on the clock,  so I expect 3 more years….and if you take out the OEM’s I’m happy….

There are other members that prefer AGM.  The caveat is that you need to ensure that the charging profile is set up properly as you can fry an AGM by abusive charging or the wrong inverter/charger setup.  Many opt for the lower price AGM from Costco or Sam’s.  Typically more than. I believe now, $200 each.  Life expectancy varies….  If I were going that route, again Trojans….
 

Hope this helps,

My house battery voltage dropped to 12.7 and would not start my 12.5k generator unless I used the battery boost switch. I was somewhat perplexed because the previous owner had replaced the batteries in October 2021. After reading your post on the "buggy whip days", I decided to check the water level of my house batteries. While my starter batteries are sealed Interstate, my house batteries are Trojans. My research on flooded cell batteries called out the need to fully charge the batteries before adding water. So, I did that first.
I have eight house batteries. Four of them are on a slide out tray that opens horizontally which makes it easy to add water. The other four are on a slide out tray that opens vertically and the hatch door makes it impossible to add water without removing the batteries. That was a big chore but paid off when they took far more water than the easy to get to batteries. The previous owner relied on RV shops for service. Fortunately, the interior plates were all covered with water.

My house battery voltage went right up to 13.7 volts (it may have been slightly higher, but I forgot to write the voltage down) and my generator went back to normal stating.
Thank you so much for your very well explained battery post. I do hope my b batteries last as long as yours.
I do have a question with one part of your post: "Many of us have got 8+ years out of them, but we are meticulous in electrolyte level and exercise or run them down for 2 or 3 cycles every 4 x 6 months.". What is involved in the exercise or run-down recommendation?

My dash AC is now fixed and working fine. I replaced the dryer/filter and the compressor. While I had the compressor off, I replaced the tensioner pully and added a new belt.

First, I drained the new compressor of its preloaded oil and then added 6 oz PAG 100 back in accordance with the Sanden compressor manual instructions. Second, I installed the new compressor. Third, I vacuumed the system for two hours. Finally, I started the engine, turned on the AC and charged the system with 60 oz of R134A. 

It seems like someone had previously removed the compressor low and high side hoses but neglected to put the correct seals back on and also over tightened so much they were completely flattened. One of the seals was normal black rubber instead of the green type as required for R134A. There were major signs of compressor oil leakage right at the connection points. The old compressor had no oil at all. There were also bad seals at the front of the RV where the dryer filter was. The new filter/dryer came with new seals.
I could not have done this work without all of the great advice from everyone on the forum.
Thank you very much.

Here are a couple of pictures at the engine for the new compressor and the new tensioner pully:

Unfortunately, the bigger problem is the need for a larger garage:

I will be working on this at my first opportunity. However, I will need to move the RV so my wife can use the garage again.
In closing, I wish to again express my great appreciation for this forum.
Bill D's Monacoers is the best.
 

I was thinking of drilling a small hole, but I was worried about drilling into the glass and causing it to break.
I will just leave the window unlatched.
Thank you for your help.

On 9/13/2021 at 11:35 AM, jacwjames said:

One thing you can do with the key pad is reprogram the access code to start with either a 1 or 9.  That way when you start to enter the code you just press that number and the keypad lights up to see the rest of the numbers.  That's what we do and it works pretty well. 

We don't even use the key fobs or carry keys, just use the key pad. 

We do have one window rigged so in an emergency we can access the coach though if we are locked out. 

Can you share the details of your rigged window? I experienced one lockout due the Trimark door handle coming apart inside and I could not get back in the coach even with my keys. Thank you,

Lee Smith

On 8/2/2022 at 9:51 AM, RIPPPA said:

The Ugly Fix™ for Detroit 2003-2007 https://a.co/d/6A6g5MN

???

As Tim posted, you can get the "Ugly Fix" on Amazon.
It is the "Ugly Fix Amazon Store".
Food for thought is that the Detroit Diesel Series 60 "Engine year fit 2002 through 2006 14L AND 12.7L
Truck year fit 2003 through 2007" covered were exempt from DEF so maybe they are also exempt from the EGR valve requirements. Anyway, the Amazon listing seems to lend credence to its legitimacy. 

I just ordered the U4420 ac compressor which matches what I removed. I now know to check the belt grooves when ordering a compressor,
My engine belt requires 8 grooves. The one listed in my Monaco data card only had 6 grooves. Mayb it was for the stock Cummins engine. I have the Detroit 60 14.0 L.

I tend to agree on the "low oil from the beginning as to why no oil was in the compressor. Good thing the coach spent a lot of time in Canada. 

I replaced the dryer. Very little oil (maybe a thimble full), but what is there looks clean. Cut the bottom off: 
Here is a picture:

Next, I removed the existing compressor. 
1. Coach data card said to use the Sanden U4756. I bought the interchange cross reference Sanden U4475. 12V. Compressor Family SD7H15. 300cc factory oil charge. Displacement 155.0. Problem is that the ac compressor clutch grooves do not match the existing and replacement belts. Cannot use.
2. Existing compressor removed:  Turned out to be a U4420. Too bad it was impossible to read the label until the compressor was removed. 12V. Compressor Family SD7H15. 200cc factory oil charge. Displacement 155.0. Micro amount of clean oil came out. Not enough to measure. Apparently, this is the correct compressor as the groves in the clutch pully exactly match the existing belt and the replacement belt I bought. Also, same belt grooves as the alternator.

Both compressors are from the same compressor family with same displacement and the same voltage. But the belt grooves are a deal breaker.

I am very perplexed by no apparent leaks in the existing system and no oil in the existing compressor. The existing compressor turns clockwise manually with no problems. No sign of debris at all. 

I bought the coach from Canada, and it does not appear the dash ac was used at all. No refrigerant at all in system. As previously noted, my vacuum leak test held for one hour. I did notice a bad connection at the dryer consisting of exterior rust where contact was made with the O-ring. I cleaned it up, coated the new O-rings with oil and reconnected the lines.

I am thinking of putting the existing compressor back in with a full 200cc oil charge, adding enough oil per the Sanden manual, vacuuming the system for one to two hours and then adding refrigerant.

Opinions will be very much appreciated.
Thank you,
Lee

I have decided to replace the belt tensioner, the dryer and the a/c compressor. Detroit Diesel Series 60 14.0L.

The belt tensioner is DD #23527565 with a cross reference to Gates 38501.
The original belt tensioner came off okay and the new Gates fits correctly. Now I need the know the bolt torque for the new tensioner.
I appreciate any help here.

In the meantime, I am working on the compressor replacement. I bought a Sanden OEM replacement and found a real good Sanden manual to cover the new installation including detailed instructions on how much oil to use.
 

Okay so this is going well thanks to all of the very good information and advice I have received.
Based on advice from Vito, I was able to obtain my coach data card and easily identify my OEM compressor. Enormous help!
I found a new OEM Sanden compressor for $319. 
I did the vacuum hold leak test and the system held the pressure fine.
I am thinking that now is the time to replace the compressor which sounds like very good preventive maintenance and also the way to get the replacement oil correct using the old compressor measurement method. 
I was able to download the Sanden service manual which is very detailed on all steps.
Any advice on removing and re-installing the compressor on the Detroit Series 60 engine will be greatly appreciated.
Please share your thoughts and advice.
Thank you.
 

New Question:
My system had a total R134 leak out. I suppose from years of sitting and no AC running.
I will do a total re-charge after vacuuming the system.
I cannot find any way to check existing oil in the compressor. 
Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated.

No, I do not know about leaks.
I have currently put a vacuum on the system and am waiting an hour to see if it holds. If it does hold, then I will vacuum the system for at least 45 minutes.
 

I recently bought my coach it does not appear that the dash AC has any charge left. I bought a set of gauges and hoses so I can check soon. The condenser fan does not turn on nor does the compressor engage.
I plan to vacuum the system and re-charge my 2004 Signature Conquest today. 
There are no hose connections in the front (generator compartment). Can hose connections be added or is it necessary? Here is a picture:

On the rear, there are two sets of hose connectors. One is at the compressor and the other set is just to the right of the compressor. Which set of connections would be best for the vacuum process? Here are pictures:

Also, I bought 11 ounces of the PAG 100 oil. 3 ounces is in a pressurized small can with a hose connection outlet. The 8 ounces came in a pour out bottle with no connection or pressure. Two questions:
1. After excavation is done, what is the recommended sequence to add R134 and PAG 100 oil?
2. How do I add the liquid pour bottle of PAG 100? 

I very much appreciate your help and comments.

We have owned our 2004 Signature for 4 months. Bought in Victoria, British Columbia, cleared US Customs and drove almost 4,000 miles to Virginia.

10 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

If you turn the handle it should expand the rubber to tighten it once installed. Are you sure you’re original one doesn’t do that?

Chargerman has got it right. The dipstick is actually a threaded rod with a flat washer that threads onto it. As you tighten the rod, the washer forces the rubber plug to expand and seal in the opening. I guess that is why so many get stripped as the treaded rod and washer are not very durable. My transmission dipstick (accessed by floor panel next to the bed) fastens the same.
My Signature is in the shop for generator service so I cannot do a picture of the reservoir. Second best is page 545 of my owner manual which has a very good diagram.
Here you go:

2004_Signature Owner Manual 545.pdf

When checking the fluid at the rear hydraulic reservoir (which is used by several systems including the power steering), I discovered two things:
1. It contained red transmission fluid (Dexron III).
2. The odd-looking dipstick was seriously loose and could have bounced out at any time. The threads were stripped and would not tighten.
A trip to the local Napa Parts found no clue as to how to buy a replacement. After much internet searching, I got lucky and found out the reservoir was a Fleetguard product, and the dipstick part number was MAK9424- 255721S. The OEM part I removed was an "Easy Grip" and was made by the Moeller Prod Co.  I found the identical part with PAI part number EDS-8981. I ordered the PAI part on eBay as the total cost including shipping was approximately $32. At a non-eBay source, the Fleetguard part was $25 but the shipping was $20.

Anyway, I thought I would post this in anyone else needs this part.
Here are some pictures:

I have seen many posts on doing your own oil change and lube work.
I experimented today to see how high the coach goes. I did not do a measurement, but would it be great for working room.
1. How long will it stay at maximum height after you shut the engine off?
2. Is there a recommended way to block the frame up?
 

Thank you very much for your help