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det944

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Posts posted by det944

  1. I measured my door....29" ....so not much difference. Notching the door would provide clearance but if you install a lower guide like the factory, it could cause alignment issues on the lower track when stowing the door. I like Jim's thought to see if that box on yours can be removed modified or replaced to allow the door more travel. 

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  2. What you have circled is a stop covered with carpet. This limits the travel of the door in the stowed position. When stowed the inbd edge of the door is flush with the cabinetry.

    Just now, det944 said:

    What you have circled is a stop covered with carpet. This limits the travel of the door in the stowed position. When stowed the inbd edge of the door is flush with the cabinetry.

    As shown in my 1st group of pics.

  3. Hello John,

    The 1st two photos are of the lower Flush sliding dead bolt lock installation for locking the door in the open position for travel. This is similar to the ones posted by Richard. Photos 3-6 are of the latch that holds the door in the closed position. My MH also has these same Flush sliding dead bolt lock and latch on the pocket door between the kitchen and shower area. Hope this helps.

    IMG_20240416_204217741.jpg

    IMG_20240416_204235224.jpg

    IMG_20240416_204336106.jpg

    IMG_20240416_204341446.jpg

    IMG_20240416_204344582.jpg

    IMG_20240416_204408594.jpg

  4. Hello John, 

    Attached are some pictures from my 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV bedroom door installation from the factory. It is a sliding door (similar to a pocket door) attached to an upper track. There is a lower track that guides the door into the stowed position and a lower lock pin which locks the door in the stowed position for travel (again similar function to the front pocket door).

    IMG_20240412_125142849.jpg

    IMG_20240412_125149746.jpg

    IMG_20240412_125121952.jpg

    IMG_20240412_125127932.jpg

    IMG_20240412_125157209.jpg

    IMG_20240412_125235150.jpg

  5. This is a great read and analysis. I've been having this very issue with my 2006 Dynasty despite NEW chassis batteries. I've tried all the recommendations like cleaning all the connection studs including the brass connections on the genset. I have not seen any significant corrosion or pitting on any of the connection so the voltage drop based on reduced gauge cable from the frb makes sense. I guess it's time to invest in some proper cable crimpers door 2/0 cable. Any recommendations would be welcomed. Thanks all that have contributed to this discussion! Very informative!

     

  6. My 2006 Dynasty with the residential refrigerator option has (2) 12 volt chassis batteries mounted in the upper slide tray. There are (4) 6 volt house batteries on the lower tray and (4) 6 volt batteries in the compartment just aft of the main battery box. IIRC the manual has the correct wiring illustrated.

  7. My 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV has the rear thermostat as zone 1 for the bedroom with fan, cool, heat pump, furnace (aqua hot) and off as selections actuated by pressing the mode switch. Zone 2 control has the same selections. The aquahot radiators for zone 2 are under the hall vanity and toilet room vanity. The hall vanity radiator is activated anytime heat(aquahot) is called for in zone 2. The toilet room radiator is activated when heat is called for in zone 2 AND the AH blower switch is pressed under the counter ledge (indicated by Amber "on" light in the switch capsule). The fwd thermostat has the same mode selections as the rear thermostat but only 1 zone. When furnace is selected, and heat is called for, the front radiator under console supplies heat. In. Order to get heat from the vents in the sofa (living area) and vents under the galley cabinets, the switch in the galley must be pressed. This is a 4 position switch, off, low, med, high. Each press of the switch changes the blower speed. Note: this switch works independent of thermostat selections, at least on my MH. Hope this helps.

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