Lenny D
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Posts posted by Lenny D
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21 hours ago, Lenny D said:
I'm definitely willing to give this a shot. However, as far as I can tell there is nothing wrong with the inverter. Unless its the data port going to the remote. My issue lies in the RC7GS Remote. I can't even get into the settings to see what's what. That's why I believe its the remote it self that's toast.
I just got off the phone with them. Nice people but unfortunately no help. I told him everything I've done to date and he really had nothing to else to suggest short of me sending them the inverter for a bench test. We are full timers so that's not an option. He did give me the name of a company in New Jersey that works on these inverters. Since we're from Jersey and we will be heading home in June, I will be contacting them for an appointment.
Thank you for your help
LD
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25 minutes ago, jacwjames said:
When I thought I was having trouble iwht my Trace I first called Trace and talked to a service rep there he said the inverter was toast.
But being a skeptical person I decided to call a repair shop >> Inverter Sales and Service, Whitehouse TN 615-285-0611
The tech was really sharp and more then willing to talk. I was ready to pack mine up and send it in but based on what I told him he said there was nothing wrong with it but gave me things to check and I was ultimately able to solve my problem.
I'm definitely willing to give this a shot. However, as far as I can tell there is nothing wrong with the inverter. Unless its the data port going to the remote. My issue lies in the RC7GS Remote. I can't even get into the settings to see what's what. That's why I believe its the remote it self that's toast.
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On 3/27/2024 at 8:48 AM, veraken said:
Don't know if this will solve your problem but I had a problem on shore power where my chassis batteries were only being charged at @ 12.5v or less. After investigation I found that it was due to a bad temp sensor on my inverter ( I have a Trace RV2012) to the battery. I disconnected the temp sensor. I talked to Xantrex and they do not have a replacement for my unit and they said just leave it disconnected - not needed.
I haven't tried that yet ... I'll give it a try. Thank you.
On 3/27/2024 at 4:51 PM, jacwjames said:Back several years ago Dr4film posted what he used for his Trace inverter settings, I copied and saved them.
RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming
· Search Sense = Defeat
· LBCO = ON
· Battery Capacity = 500 amp
· Battery Type = Liquid Lead Acid
· Charge Rate = 80%
· Set Shore Power = 30 amps
· External Shunt = None
· Fuel gauge Cutout = 11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC
· Generator Start = 12.0 or 12.2 VDC
· Generator Stop = Auto Float
· Generator Quiet Time = 23:59 & 00:01
You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start
I actually bought my 2002 Windsor from Dr4film ... We are currently in close contact about this. I am fortunate enough to have maintained a relationship with him over the last 2 years since we picked the coach up. He has a few ideas that we are going to try before I consider going deeper into the rabbit hole looking for a replacement or seeking out a repair shop like 'Radwell' who specialize in repairing obsolete electronics. . I have a thumb drive that Dr4film gave me when I picked up the coach. This thumb drive has almost every part, part number and vendor for the part that you can think of ... It's been invaluable in sussing out problems.
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Hello. 2002 Windsor. I'm having an issue with my Xantrex RC7/GS remote for the TRACE ENGINEERING converter/inverter.
It just started giving me some confusing readouts. As it is right now it is showing the BATT. FULL light green/on steady. The CHARGE light is flashing rapidly. The readout is alternating between FLOAT and EQUALIZING. It also is emitting a rapid clicking sound with a short beep. I've done some process of elimination. I've unplugged the data line at the inverter and left it unplugged overnight. No change when plugged back in. I unplugged the data line at the remote as well. No change when plugged back in. I've shut off the 50amp service coming in and the remote shows INVERTING and all the 12v is working. I started the generator while the 50amp was still off .. The remote returns to the same state as listed above and all systems are working. The LED status light on the inverter is flashing green as it always has showing that batteries are fully charged and in float. I also removed, cleaned and applied protectant to all battery terminals. Batteries are less than 2 years old. In summary, everything electrical seems to be working as it should.
I'm thinking two things. Data cable might be compromised somewhere between the inverter and the remote. OR The remote has failed and needs to be replaced. My next move will be to purchase 100' of compatible data cable and run it out side the coach from the inverter to the remote and see if that fixes the issue. Then I'll know its the cable. If not, I'm considering buying a new remote (I don't think Xantrex makes the same remote anymore but most likely has a compatible replacement. I'm on hold with Xantrex as I type). ALSO PLEASE NOTE the auto gen start stopped working about 18 months ago. I haven't had it looked at as we do not do a lot of boondocking (yet)
Any suggestions are very welcome. I'm only 2 years into this so I'm still wet behind the ears here.
TYIA
LD
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Richard answered the question about the white smoke. It is excess diesel fuel from the the times it failed to ignite the burner. I had the same problem with mine. My issue was a bad control board. Easy to replace. Plug and play. But the boxes themselves are not cheap. Used or rebuilt 1st generation is about $400-$500 .. New 4th generation is $800+
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22 hours ago, Dr4Film said:
@zmotorsports Mike, I totally agree! You would be surprised at the number of owners who do not know that the Webasto diesel burner is their primary heat source and the Electric Assist is the secondary heat source. This is stated very early in the owners manual.
The Aqua-Hot has a very specific sequence of events with motors, pumps, sensors, relays, control box, etc. that all need to work for the the Aqua-Hot to run correctly. Anyone of them can cause the unit not to run.
I highly recommend every owner to sit down and read the entire manual, owners and service manuals, then and only then they will have a better understanding of its operation. I would bet that most owners have not done that, then they post here to get help.
Or they call you 😘
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On the road again Ray ... May you rest in everlasting peace.
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The diesel side does not use that much fuel. I've had my AH running (both electric and diesel) since the end of September 23' .. I had a full tank of fuel when I parked in March 23' .. (02 Windsor - 40') .. I start my motor once a month. Since I started using my AH I've used up maybe 1/8 of a tank. I'm parked in New Jersey. With that said, for 1 month (October) my control board failed and I lost the diesel side so In was running just in the electric. No way it could keep up with the temp drops .. I was also using the heat pumps on my Penguin II roof units to supplement but they stop working when the temps drop below 30 degrees .. We also used electric space heaters to compensate when needed (I found the oil heaters to work the best) .. Once the diesel side was repaired we had good heat but I noticed the hot water was running out too quickly. I had the tech come back and he was going to replace a thermostat inside the AH unit as well as the tempering valve .. Thats when I noticed I was getting a steady drip under the coach from the AH unit. ended up ascertaining that the tank inside the AH was leaking from most likely the copper tubing. My unit is older. The copper tube is on the outside of the tank .. All the research I did showed other AH owners with the same model as mine, I have a model 431/12 which is identical to the original 100-01/02 that was replaced by the previous owner, were showing leaking from corrosion where the clips that hold the tubing to the take oxidize and eventually compromise the copper. . . So, I cancelled the thermostat and tempering valve replacement and now am waiting for a rebuilt tank to be shipped and installed .. We had to rob a bank to pay for the parts and labor but such is the life we chose and love. AH's are fantastic ... when they are working. . Some friends think it might be time to sell .. I disagree. If I still had a stick and brick I certainly wouldn't sell if my furnace or hot water heater went down.
I believe once you start using your diesel and electric together you'll be nice and toasty. We keep our thermostat at 71 degrees .. I like it warmer, at 72* and the wife likes it cooler 70* .. The age old husband / wife cage match .. lol. . Best of luck getting to the bottom of your AH issues and safe travels.
LD (The Breeze) 2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT
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I am the buyer of Dr4Film's (Richard) 2002 Windsor .. The Aqua-Hot Model in the Windsor is model 431/12 which is identical to the 100-01 and 100-02. The original Aqua-Hot was a 100-01.. I seem to have spung a leak somewhere inside the box. No visible leaking when service hood is removed. There is a steady drip under the coach mid-ship below the Aqua Hot. Looks as though its coming through where the exhaust comes through. . I've had two separate techs here (New Jersey) to work on it ... It started out simple enough where I had to replace the control module .. I ended up ordering a new 4th generation box at a hefty price tag of $950.oo .. He put it in and it worked for a day then started doing the same thing as the one that was replaced was doing. It would spin up the motor but not ignite the burner.... I then purchased a rebuilt, 1st generation (silver metal box from the gentleman in Texas whose name escapes me) .. When the tech returned he pulled the new box and installed the rebuilt one. He also put in a new high limit switch .. Since the rebuilt box has been in it's been doing its job. He took the new one back and tested it, he also spoke to Aqua Hot (who would not take a return) and it was determined that nothing is wrong with the new box (it is now for sale btw).
Now I'm dealing with the leak issue. I have to have the unit removed for a look see under the hood. Most likely its the cooper coil .. Unfortunately my current health does not allow me to any of this work myself. We have plenty of heat and we have enough hot water (although it runs out quickly) a separate issue. My immediate concerns are 1) I will need to get my unit either replaced or repaired. My wife and I are full timers currently mooch docking at my daughters house in New Jersey where we spent our summer. We were supposed to be in Fla now but an unforeseen health issue is keeping us here for a good part of the winter. So to have the unit pulled would leave us with no heat and no hot water for an undetermined amount of time .. I thought about heading to Fla in Feb after my treatments are done but that brings me to concern #2) The floor under the AH has been taking on this water for what looks like some time. It shows signs of deterioration.(see photos).. I'd be afraid that one good pothole and the unit would fall right out. SO ... here we are. The tech that is qualified to remove the unit is waiting for John C to get back to us. I'd either buy a refurb or find out the turn around time to send mine in for a rebuild. That would of course leave us without heat and hot water in the middle of a Northeastern winter.... There are ways around everything. We could get a extended stay room close by while we wait for the repair but now we're circling the 12k to 15k price tag .. We do not want to sell. Aside from the AH issue this coach is amazing. Richard took very good care of her and she's had some nice upgrades, and she runs and rides like a Caddy.
Sorry, I guess I'm just venting but maybe I can get a few suggestions that I can add to my list of options..
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7 minutes ago, Paul J A said:
We had the fortunate opportunity to full time, 2004-2014. We used common sense and a Truckers Road Atlas, LARGE PRINT. Never had an incident. We ALWAYS looked at ANY route or stop on Google Earth as necessary.
I like the LARGE PRINT idea .. lol .. I always liked printed maps.
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2002 Monaco WIndsor ..... We use the Garmin 770 as well but we never depend on just the Garmin. We also use Waze and Google. Waze will show road closures and traffic %90 of the time. Google is helpful when I use the satellite or street view during pre planning. I like to see what certain intersections or terrain look like ahead of time... But the Garmin has my coach values programed in. Like you Richard, I sometimes have to enter way points to attain a desired route. I was also using an app called "RV Life" . I used that app in conjunction with the Garmin the very first time we traveled from NJ to Fla. It was our first time out and I like to have options. It worked well. That app has a cost of $19.99 a month or $65 a year... It was definitely helpful but once I got the hang of using the Garmin, Waze and Google I canceled that membership after the first month. Fingers crossed, Garmin has not led me down any dirt roads just yet .. I'm wondering, when entering route options into the Garmin, you have the choice of Fastest or Shortest. Would either setting be less apt to take us off the beaten path and into 40' x 12' hell ?
Keep the rubber side down ladies and gents. Safe travels.
LD
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Hello .. I have the 02' Windsor "Dr Film" mentioned .. My front AC has been giving me problems for about 4 months now. It will start up intermittently. When it does, the fan starts up then the compressor kicks on .. It will run on all speeds for about 15 minutes. Then, as I sit I hear the fan motor begin to get slower and slower till it finally stops. I can still hear the compressor humming so I shut it down. It will not restart at this point. We tried changing the capacitor but to no avail. My next move is getting a new fan motor. At which time I will also switch out the two capacitors ... I'm currently in NJ and the AC isn't being used as our temps are dropping weekly. We leave for Florida last week in November. I'll have it fixed in Fla. Getting a mobile tech in Jersey is like finding a needle in a haystack.
You're problem sounds like what was mentioned. Low Freon ... These Penguin II's are great units. I'd get a meter on the capacitor which may be losing its ability to hold a charge. Good luck .. We turned our rear unit on and used a fan to help blow air up front .. Works like a charm.
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19 hours ago, tmw188 said:
I have some used parts for that model including boards and user control pad. A brand new defrost htr for the refrigerator compartment too. I’ll check on the door htr. You can PM me if interested.
Thank you very much. I ended up ordering the part off eBay. It should fit .. If for some reason it does not I will definitely take you up on your offer .
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Thanks Barry .. I already have a 'message seller' in for this. I need to make sure the dimensions are correct. It cannot be any longer than 35" .. Apparently Samsung made several different length doors. There are several part #sDA97-07661 but they have different ending letters T, D, C .. etc. Hopefully this one pans out.
Thank you
4 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Hey Richard .. Yes, I saw this as well .. I just need to make sure of the dimensions that were not listed. I messaged the seller. Fingers crossed. I assume a repair person would disassemble the flapper and fix/replace the broken hinges. That whole deal would end up costing me over $300 .. I'm hoping this one on Ebay is the right size. Its an easy peasy fix with the right part.
Thanks
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Hello. We have a Samsung residential installed in our 2002 Monaco Windsor... Model #RF18HFENBBC .. The Flapper Door Cover with Mullion Heater, part #DA97-07661T has broken off its hinges (my wife fell into the door). She's ok, the flapper not so much. The hinges (3) are all broken. I can sort of put it in place by hand then shut the french doors. I'm fairly certain the heater is also still working as the wiring harness was not harmed.... Easy fix but I cannot find the part. I did order one from Genuine Replacement Parts .com but when it arrived it was the incorrect size. This was my fault. After discovering my error I went on a hunt for the correct size flapper. Mine measures 35" long, 2" wide and 1" deep ... Its correct part number is listed above. #DA97-07661T ... Every vendor I've gone to and or searched for list the part as 'Out Of Stock' or 'Discontinued by Manufacturer' ... I can probably call a local appliance repair shop and have a tech come over as I did when I needed a new fan and defrost sensor installed but the service call will cost me more than the part. . . I'm wondering if anyone knows of a vendor that might carry this discontinued part? .. I paid $150 for the wrong size part I received. I should be able to return it but there is a small restocking fee. No biggie. I just can't find the correct part. There are several others like the one I bought by mistake but they are the wrong length. It has to be no longer than 35" .... Any help is appreciated.
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Hello... I need to replace the entrance door screen. The frame is broken in 3 spots. Well, its not exactly broken. The seams are seperated. there aren't any connecting clips so the seams just flop. . I tried taping them which worked temporarily. I want to replace the whole screen and frame but not sure where to look. I took the screen I have in for repair but the 2 shops I brought it to told me they had no solution for me.
Any ideas of where to call to get a replacement ?
Thanks
LD
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20 minutes ago, Ivan K said:
Google "dometic ac sensor cup", pretty expensive from stores that have it in stock.
Thank you .. So, I saw a white one for $14 from Boat and RV Accessory. Of course its listed as 'Out Of Stock' ... I also saw a black one from Dyers RV .. They have it in stock $44.92 !!! ... lolol. . Get an RV they said. You'll love it they said .. We actually do love it .. Bank account be damned.
Thanks
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Hi, I stole this photo of a remote temp sensor from a past post I found in the 'search' bar .. I own a 2002 Windsor. I went to clean the cover and it was so brittle it just crumbled when I touched it. I'd like to replace it. Any info on a vendor or someplace I can buy a replacement ?
Thanks
LD
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4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:
I spent the last few days at Tailin RV & Stone Vos Inc shops having my roadside slides fitted with Guardian Plates. The previous owners did not maintain the corners and the bottom of those two slides very well. In fact, the large salon slide had some very thin SS covering the bottom ends that were partially glued on with two screws at each end to hold it in place. Luckily, they both came off easily. One end of my rear closet slide had the thin covering the bottom separating from the plywood base.
For those two reasons, I decided to have the Guardian Plates installed so I will never have to worry about them ever again. Photos attached.
While there, I discovered some additional work that will need to be done next winter when we return to Florida. Two small sections of the bottom beltline will need to be repaired and the double bulb flip seal around the large salon slide will need to be replaced.
I also talked with Ingrid, the owner of Stone Vos Inc about making tire covers for the Dynasty and replacing the topper over the large roadside slide.
Both places, Talin RV and Stone Vos Inc. are my go-to places for having the BEST products and the very BEST technical service and installations. I don't waste my time with other shops when I have the very best only a 3-hour drive from my winter residence.
Looks great Richard
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5 hours ago, Gary M said:
Thankyou and sorry for your loss also . This girl next to me looks close to Buddy.
Yes they are.
Awww .. Yes she does .. I miss him everyday but truth be told, I almost feel a little guilty. Buddy was not able to climb the steps into the bus. When we’re in New Jersey we’re parked at my daughters house where we have a full hook up. Before he passed away we were staying in a spare room in the house so we could be with him. We couldn’t even leave to go on any trips at all since we were his caregivers. I had Laps of Love come to the house so they could euthanize him in his comfort spot. It was literally one of the hardest things I ever had to do. I don’t even think I felt such sorrow when I lost my parents. I was of course saddened about losing my parents but that was just a natural succession of life. I couldn’t do anything to help Buddy and that’s a feeling that I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. After he passed, and I the sadness subsided we were able to move forward with our plans. Before he passed we couldn’t do much. One of us always had to be home. My daughter had her hands full with three dogs and three kids. Buddy needed a lot of attention. We talk about it but I don’t think we’ll be getting another dog anytime soon. Maybe one day.
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So very sorry for your loss Gary. We lost our best friend 10 months ago. His name is Buddy and he was with us for 17 years … It was one of the saddest days of our lives .. We know he’s at peace now and out of pain. Our condolences 💐 to you.
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On 1/13/2023 at 4:55 PM, Tom Cherry said:
Generic answer and some "maybes"
My experience is mostly Magnum, but the concepts are the same. Couple of things to look at and then "let it sink in"
Turn OFF the Auto Gen Start....
Now let the batteries charge up. YES, they will have a surface charge. The Auto Start will not work, as you know, plugged in. SO...as someone stated, you start to put a real load on the Batteries. Cover your solar or pull the fuse on the controller or find the lead to the "House Battery" on the controller and disconnect. That eliminates the solar...which can be confusing.
OK....now you need to knock off the surface charge. Turn on an exhaust fans. Let the run. Watch the voltage. It will drop down quickly and then stabilize... NOTE, when you see the voltage at 12.7 or so on the remote, then that is the "theoretical" 100% FULLY Charged (when the batteries are NEW. NOW...watch it if it keeps dropping quickly, then what is the voltage when it stops and just stabilizes and it takes a long time for the next 0.1 drop. Record that. Go outside with a VOM and measure the House Bank. It is NOT uncommon for a Remote on an inverter to read 0.10 -0.20 LOWER than the actual battery voltage. BUT, if it is stable...then if you turn OFF the fan and read the batteries...that is the "I am charged up to the BEST I will ever be". In other words, a NEW battery will charge back up to 100%, but time and abuse and whatever harms the cells and they will not charge back to 100%... The Trojan chart tells you how much REAL amp hours or percent of theoretical charge you have....based on knocking off the surface charge. SO, if you, rule of thumb, don't charge back up to but 40%, then time for new ones..
OK....I KNOW that does NOT answer your question. BUT, you have to understand WHEN and actually the Voltage that they should come on. On the Magnums, if you set the ON VDC at 11.9 VDC, then the auto start will come on around 12.0/12.1 or so. The Remote controls the ON signal and it might have to stay at that number for a minute or so. Most folks think that the Remote reads the Battery Voltage....it does....but with Line losses, the remote will always read lower. SO, if you want your genny to start at 50% SOC....which is 12.10, you have to LOWER that number so that when the remote gives the signal....the batteries are actually there. In other words, you COMPENSATE for the voltage drop. If you don't, and then set it at say 60%...you are seriously impairing the life of the batteries by charging too often. SO, the RULE of THUMB is never drop below 50%....then make sure the Remote is set to a number that reflects 50% at the battery. Now, in theory....the batteries, depending on load, will actually "pop back" if you took off the load so 11.8/11.9 is safe (for the Magnum eror).
OK....BACK ON POINT. I do NOT think that changing the ON voltage is necessary. The ONLY way you can test that is to set it to say 11.9. Then you put ON a steady load....and if it does NOT start....but the Genny cranks Manually, there is a "fault" or issue with either your AGS or Remote or the interconnections.
The Genny has a harness that runs to the AGS. These get wet or corroded. Find that connection. Clean the contacts and RESEAT them.
The other "fix" is to remove shore and solar power. Then disconnect the battery leads on the back of the Inverter.....let it sit for an hour or so. That will sometimes chase out the electronic gremlin in the Inverter. Magnum has a two step process for a SOFT and HARD (if the Soft failed) RESET.
Now...you MAY or will have to get the ERROR CODE. That is where you needThank you very much Tom. A lot of your answer I did not fully understand due to lack of knowledge but this is something I can show to my tech .. Actually your last few paragraphs were something I understood. You wrote
".....if it does NOT start....but the Genny cranks Manually, there is a "fault" or issue with either your AGS or Remote or the interconnections." ... This is kinda where I'm at. On my remote, when I had it set to 'Manual Start' , I used to be able to press the 'ON' button on my remote and the generator would crank and start. It no longer does that. HOWEVER .. When I press the toggle to start it (I have two toggles. Front dash and bedroom next to my bed.) it will crank and start no problem. This made me think that there is a communication problem between the Trace and the genny. We haven't tested the data line yet.
AND
"The Genny has a harness that runs to the AGS. These get wet or corroded. Find that connection. Clean the contacts and RESEAT them." .. The previous owner suggested this as well. Cleaning the harness connections. I'll just need to find them. For that I can call the previous owner. After owing this coach for 18yrs his knowledge on it has been such a huge help to me.
I'm definitely leaning towards either one of these issues. Communication or connection ... One small tid bit of information I left out was I had the coach in a body shop for 9 weeks .. They left it out in their yard for 7 of those weeks without so much as starting it up once or twice a week. They never shut off the batteries either. They used a battery pack and jumped it a bunch of times. We had to jump it when I went to pick it up. We had to jump the chassis battery to get the motor started and the house to get the genny started. They used one of those portable battery packs to do this. After driving it home (1.5 hrs) the battery never charged .. I decided to get a new chassis battery since mine was 5 yrs old. When I went to turn off the GUEST switch it was ceased .. I removed it to replace it and there was a visible melted area between the posts on the back ... I keep wondering if they cooked something else as well.
Thank you for your time and your diagnosis .. I will left my tech read it when I see him again.
LD
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5 minutes ago, MurrayD said:
Had same issue with remote unable to start generator. Simple fix was to raise my start voltage from 12 to 12.2, yours is already 12.2, try going higher to see if that is the issue.
I'm going to try this. thanks
Xantrex RC7/GS issue
in Electrical Systems
Posted · Edited by Lenny D