DZZippy

22 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I think installing shut-offs is a no-brainer. You never know when you may need them.

One of the best places to install shut-offs is on the fuel IN and OUT for the Aqua-Hot Diesel Burner. It sure beats using clamp-offs to stop the flow of fuel while servicing the Aqua-Hot.

I couldn’t agree more. Here is the funny thing….I did exactly that (Aquahot). I installed valves rated for diesel and vibration about 1 year ago. Never had and an issue. Then, after the coach sat in storage, I went in to a 1 gallon puddle on the floor under the Aquahot compartment. Yep it was diesel. Apparently one of the new shut off valves leaked through the stem of the valve. I now have a mess to deal with. All I could do was laugh. Already ordered new valves (different ones).

Thanks for all the ideas and info

2 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Morning, when i did mine rather than have a mount to the block design i had cut out 3 ft of heater hose from the block, i then replaced it with silicon heater hose, then i installed the shut off valves. That way i knew i would not have to worry about the the hose leading up to the valve. My coach is rear radiator design so my access is thru the closet. One last word about the silicon hose i also used the special hose clamps ,they are full circle so as not to damage it like some others might

My initial idea was to avoid any hose prior to the valve but I think I’m going the direction you both have already gone and splice in. Great thought on the silicone hose and appropriate clamps.

14 minutes ago, joefromperry said:

When I had to remove my aquahot from the coach a few years ago to repair a leak, I installed shutoff valves on both engine coolant lines to/from the aquahot to avoid the mess if/when I need to pull it out again. But I did it right there in the bay, not at the engine. I used these from Home Depot: IMG_5082.heic

Thanks Joe

I figured I would throw this question out to all to see what has been done in an attempt to not reinvent the wheel. I am in the process of replacing the side radiator and CAC. While the coolant has been drained I thought this would be the time to possibly install coolant shut off valves for supply / return lines for the dash heater core as well as the Aquahot. I figured I would install right on the block at the ISL. This would allow me to isolate the Aquahot and front dash heater if there is a problem with either of the “auxiliary” components to the engine and not leave me stranded on the side of the road like it did once before. It would also improve AC function during the summer months in the front dash. Any thoughts from anyone who has done this? Also, what threaded valves did you use? Did you notice any difference in engine coolant temp (assuming not but figured I would ask)? As always, thanks for any info and thoughts. 

I know I’m late to the thread as I have been off for a few days. I had the same issue (Cummins engine though). After some research I found out that Monaco supplied all engine oil dipsticks and all engines, regardless of engine make (at least 2005 chassis model year), were ordered without the dipstick and then installed on the line. I found a part number on mine that was originally made by a company that is now out of business (Orscheln) . However, I found a company that custom makes them and has a build spec within their system if you have a part number as they have all the Orscheln items.
Here is the info for the company that made mine (exact replacement) and reasonably priced:

The Parts House Inc

343 S. Kellogg Street Galesburg, IL 61401

(309) 343-4046

BTW…I initially contact REV that stated item was obsolete with no leads on a replacement

14 minutes ago, RVerBob said:

Hey DZZippy, I would be interested in the ECU if still available.

I just sent you a private message.

Hi RVerBob,

To fully answer your question from a technical side I would have to go back to my notes from a couple years ago. I have not found a schematic (pneumatic or electric)  at all anywhere for our specific year. Recalling from memory, there are several air solenoids in the engine compartment (just like the one for tag lift). Those solenoids are all grouped together and control air dump, tag dump / tag lift, regulated pressure for the tag bags when in travel mode, and isolation from the leveling system. The leveling system does not switch any function for the tag axle. I actually traced it all out. Assuming you have had no modifications I would assume your coach would be the same. All switching on the leveling system occurs at the single manifold block. I will see what I can find  in my notes but may take me a couple of days. Not sure what to make of your air leak but I would get some soapy water / leak detector and commence the search. If you are losing all air it is most likely a leak somewhere that is not on pressure protection. I noted that you replaced air lines as well. If you used the old fittings that could be a source of a leak as well. Air tank drains are a possibility especially if you used them to drain the system before completing repairs, especially if you haven’t used them recently. Which lines specifically were replaced? Asking cause I know the actual lines to the air bags themselves have several Ts in them and change color at various points.

Absolutely frustrating. Yes, you and I have gone down the same road for sure. I hope the soon available patch will take care of many stop gaps that have presented along the journey of this system and the evolution of time. Last time I looked into things I was informed that they will not be supporting the system in any capacity as it was legacy, older technology, and not many left on the road. Hopefully they continue to hear the cries for help that exist. Please keep us all up to date and let us know how things turn out. Personally, I am confident your calibration values will be able to be locked in once the voltage is corrected. The sensors are definitely fragile / finicky and seemed to be the “weak link” of the originally designed system prior to the lack of support that followed as time passed. The fact that the product changed hands through different companies probably induced some loss of knowledge as well. Funny how the little pieces of information that are ABSOLUTELY crucial in their value don’t come out when they are needed such as the repining / ground. It sounds like you and I have the same level of information but you have a couple new pieces. Keep on fighting the good fight. If I was closer to you I would lend a hand.

I do still have the control panel, ECM / ECU, as well as main wire harness along with a few other components. While I am not sure of the intactness and function, they may prove worthy for someone. 
 

While different model coach…....My front AC drain line is by the generator at the front. The middle and rear ACs have separate drains that exit in the engine compartment.

Ron,

First of all good luck and I sympathize with you. I don’t say that to discourage you by any means, I truly feel your frustration. I am not going to be much help as I don't recall all aspects. I do recall some information from a few conversations that I had with the parent company across the pond (Ireland?). If I recall correctly, no calibration values can be set if voltage is out of spec on any of the sensors. I know the ECM can be a little bit of a problem at times regarding it.
 

My suggestion is to start here:

https://www.driveriteair.com/catalog/product/Monaco-318

In order to access more information on the website I had to register, submit information, and I eventually had access to all the information they have on their end. Please keep in mind that for my particular issue(s) they did not have all the information I needed but were helpful with what they did have. I have some additional information attached.
IRMONBROC_0504_e.pdf

IRMON_0504_e.pdfIR_wire_harness_schem.pdfIR_wiring_schem.pdfTroubleshooting.pdf050629 IntelliRide Grounding Service Bulletin Letter.pdfwind_airlevel.pdf

13 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

So, no need to remove the shiny push cap retaining ring on the outside threaded shaft?  That would be a relief.  I am afraid of going too Rambo on it and damaging either the fiberglass or the arm assembly.

Thanks for the advice...will try it out tomorrow

 

That is correct, at least on mine.

While others are reading this (and obviously for yourself), I do have a brand new wiper motor that only had 5 months of usage on it before I removed the entire assembly and upgraded. 

Your assembly looks very similar to mine that I replaced last year. Once I removed all self-tapers securing the mounting brackets to the fiberglass / wood front cap all I had to do was remove the nuts from the shafts on the outside of the coach where they come through. I do recall that it was tight and had to use a hammer to tap the shafts / bulk head fitting through and then removed the entire assembly as one unit.

Hope that helps

I like the square tubing idea. As mentioned, this would work for air bag replacement. In looking at the Roadmaster chassis, I’m curious how people have been placing jack stands specifically to tackle trailer arm bushings. This seams a bit tricky. I’m assuming the square tubing will not work for this as the vehicle weight would have to be off of the suspension / H frame. Thoughts? As always, thanks for all the insight and knowledge of everyone here.

I’ve been down this road before as many have. Just a thought……. Wipertechnologies may be the way to go. I got a complete assembly (heavy duty) and the entire assembly was cheaper than the arms which I could not find in stock anywhere.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Thanks for the update.  It would be great if you could condense your issues and how Valid fixed them.  BUT, your situation, as frustrating as it was (is) is NOT unique.

Here is a topic that I posted a while back....The opening post is wordy....I KNOW!.  So to condense...  

New to a friend's 2007 Dynasty.  Not exactly a newbie...had had 4 MH (Memory) before and the last was born in Red Bay, AL and a top end. BUT, the air and leveling and such was a mystery to him.  Frank McElroy helped me and we had the owner test the air system as he had NO FRONT air gauge...which was his initial complaint. 

BUT, he had also bought the MH from the "kin" of an individual that was confined to assisted living.  They sort of "had it fixed up".  BUT, the tech cut off the ALARM BELL....(it was NOISY) so no warning. Once we knew, via the Pre Drive Air Test Procedure, then he finally took the hint and went from NC to FL and Josams.

Two reasons.  Get an Auxillary Alarm system for the air pressure installed...which I drew up and he ordered the components...BUT>>>>>WHILST THERE...get the VALID working.

It seems that the kin also had a tech put in a WHOLE NEW Valid control module...and it still wouldn't work....but he never figured that out.  OK....Barry and Josams are the ONES.  They figured out that all his moisture issues was a bad aux compressor (which Frank predicted).  They installed a new one... AIR SYSTEM IS PERFECT.  They had also "suspected" that the valves were in bad shape and replacement was cheaper than rebuilding.  So, their air freighted in a totally new set of valves....not a cheap outlay.  Pulled the first Valve.  HMMMM...  This ain't no bad valve....one thing lead to the other.  

Then Mike (memory), the Monaco specialist called Valid.  Spent a LONG TIME on the phone and back and forth.  WELL NOW....that NEW CONTROL is OK...and the VALVES ARE OK.... WHAT GIVES.  Lots of Tech to Tech support discussion.  BACK TO SQUARE ONE.  The Valid Tech Support had all the "circuits" and such trouble shot....so it had to be in the CONTROL.  SO....he said..  We're gonna do a complete, factory reset...and then it began.  Mike spent (per my friend) about 30 minutes or so....and reset and reinstalled, as in making sure that everything was setup properly, on the new, existing control.  He did not, memory, every pull it out or what....just following the tech supports step by step instruction.

Bottom LINE.  FIXED.  No new Valves.  New Controller is FINE...no issues.

Your tale reminded me of this...so your story, like the one I posted, would be of great value....so PLEASE POST....  YES, a member PMing is great.  BUT it would benefit the entire membership community if you could post the details...

Thanks....Glad it is resolved...

 

 

Thanks Tom. I always appreciate your responses and valuable information. I was trying to prevent everyone from going to sleep..lol

here it goes and good luck to all who read:

My wife and I purchased our 2005 Imperial back in December of 2021. There were a couple of problems but knowing them we decided to purchase anyway in hopes that they wouldn’t cost us too much. My background previous to my current profession was an emergency vehicle technician on fire trucks and heavy wheeled mechanic. On top of that, I have been an RVer for along period of time and have dove into the many systems in the past such as installing Ground control or Levelup as well as many other systems and repairs on my previous RVs. My wife is also very mechanically inclined. When I say I, really is mean “We”.  I mention this because my background becomes pertinent as the rest of the story develops….back to the purchase. Two of the large issues when we purchased was a windshield repair and a air leveling issue. 
 

Specifics on our air leveling issue: Initially we had a Firestone IntelliRide air system. For those that don’t know, that specific system uses digital ride height sensors that constantly need calibrating (using a laptop with a windows program of XP only). That system also controls the air dump feature. On top of that, that particular system has some obsolete parts such as the ECM and now part of a parent company across the pond in Ireland. Our system when we purchased was stuck in the low position, and would not respond. We were forced to drive the coach home in that position (talk about white knuckle ride for 4 hours and cringing every time we hit a bump). 
 

After doing extensive research, speaking directly with the parent company in Ireland, tech support, we determined that the original problem could be in the control panel…..but couldn’t eliminate the ECM as their communication network was antiquated. The control board to rebuild was about $400. If that didn’t work then the ECM would have been the issue with no replacement. So we were forced to put on hold to evaluate the entire situation. In the meantime we installed mechanical ride height valves which was standard on our coaches without the air ride option. That was rather a good experience as the mounting brackets were already present on our coach. After that we were travel worthy and just found ourselves leveling the old school way temporarily……boards under our wheels. We do/ did have a hydraulic system also but had no confidence in it as it is a 3 point system (many of us know some of those headaches), and has some issues with the pump. After speaking with the original owner, he had problems with it from day 1 that never was addressed. Again, forced with a decision of where to throw our money and get the best bang for the buck.

I started reaching out to many companies….disclaimer here….my intention is not to bash anybody but accurately depict what occurred and what happened. My past told me that I can install the system as I am very mechanically inclined, like most on this forum,  and have more of a clue then what the average customer would. On top of that my years as a heavy wheeled mechanic would benefit and I already install MUX and hardwire electrical systems. So I started with HWH…that went nowhere. They were very disrespectful, and said that the only option they could offer was “Active Air”. Keep in mind that would have been close to $18K for our Imperial and has to be installed at their location, and would not support or sell to a self installer or service shop. That is a very polite version of what happened and putting it very mildly as we will never purchase an HWH product after being yelled at over the phone for what I presume to be tech supposed specialist and director that didn’t realize I knew what I was talking about. And to top it off, COVID pushed their schedule for install to over a year. I then spoke with a few after market companies that would hear me a bit. I discussed generic ways of switching, pneumatic plumbing,  and overall design. They would listen until the mention of the regulated tag axle and lifting capability and politely would bow out. This then led me to research Valid. I keened in on their partnership with Spartan Chassis. I was able to get a hold of some technical data, researched it for about a month, and found a little tweaking to the design specific to our coach would be the answer, if possible. I then researched and spoke with Justin Scherba, Program Manager, at Valid. He was / is excellent. I’m not sure to what his immediate impression was, but I think he got the picture we had a background when we started talking J1939 (the network they use), solenoids, switching, ohms, technical background, and thought / design in my head. He didn’t commit but though it was plausible for a system for us. He responded several weeks later with several phone calls and initially responded with couldn’t be done. He explained the market, the need for engineering, R&D, QC, and so on. However I pestered a bit, and got the phone call in October of 22…paid off…Valid agreed to design the aftermarket system and potentially saw the need for it with other potential coaches. We then started the design and overall integration of the tag axle and lift capability. He listened to every word and we worked out the fine details. Then the process began with engineering, approval, building, testing, QC, etc. We then purchased directly from them. They developed an installation manual and operation manual. During our install, I forwarded them pictures for their manual development and we working hand in hand together on the aftermarket project with our coach being the flagship. I then put Valid and REV in touch together with the thought of them being a Service Center for Monaco coaches and aftermarket installs. I have spoken several times with the some upper echelon of those perspective companies. I’m not sure where the current status is but know that they have already gotten additional inquiries and that I have also help identify some parts and thoughts to help bring some specific coaches together for aftermarket availability. 
 

Essentially, there is more to the story but this is the “brief” summary. 

for those wondering, our overall cost was a fraction of (less then 1/4) what “Active Air” with all factors considered.

We will be removing the remnants of the hydraulic system from our coach and will be air leveling only. We love it! We have already removed the major parts of the Intelliride system. As mentioned, over 8K miles already, several stops, several leveling deployments, several tight turns with tag lift used….PERFECT!! Thank you to Valid!! WHAT A “Valid” piece of mind. Thanks to REV also for their part in this as well.

14 hours ago, Florida Hog Man said:

So, has the mystery supplier brought the aftermarket system to the market?  Updates?

Sorry for the delay in update. It is officially finished. Valid Manufacturing has provided the answer! I have been working with Valid direct. After pestering them they decided to help…lol. It took some time as it had to get developed as an aftermarket and go through engineering. As many people already know, they have been in the industry for awhile now. They have provided an aftermarket system for our coach that incorporated the tag axle functions as well which solved all of our issues. We initially had a Firestone IntelliRide system which has been abated with numerous issues. The system has been installed and we have now traveled a little over 8K miles , numerous stops, and no issues. They were the only ones that listened to us despite several attempts in reaching out to other companies. I will say this, we will NEVER own another coach without the Valid system. That is a huge statement but is the direct result of our situation. They truly pulled through and their customer service has been tremendous! There is a very long story regarding our situation that I wont post here as it is lengthy and would cure insomnia.

With that stated, if anyone out there needs a new system, and the original system installed on their coach is not worth fixing, PM me and we can talk and maybe our story will be beneficial.

On 10/28/2023 at 8:50 AM, cbr046 said:

Have you tried swapping Park-Bell relays with other non-related relays in the Monaco Box 1 & 2 in the front run bay?  Easy and quick test.

- bob

Thanks Bob, I’ve done that previously without a change….even treated the relays

Hey gang, just filling in on what I know and some of which has already been stated. Randy started this topic and figured I’d jump on board also since I have the exact complaint: park brake released and foot on service brake. As soon as the service brake is release get a park bell alarm (Enertech alarm) that goes away as soon as the service brake is depressed again. As mentioned by many, the Nason switch on the park brake valve and low pressure switches (x2) all function and work appropriately. I have temporarily put this project on hold as there are other priorities that need to be completed (currently disconnected and I do not condone that….it’s there for a reason). I have a partial print / schematic that shows the 64 wire mentioned by Larry that goes from the relay to activate the alarm. There is not much to the circuit, Park Brake, low air switches, service brake. Though the exhaust brake is tied in also at idle from what I remember. My print is limited and does have 2 circuits in which Randy mentioned: 1 NO and 1 NC. Both of these are tied in with the two relays for park bell and I believe on 87a. My print is limited and only shows those circuits going to two different terminals but no device is listed and again incomplete on the schematic.

I do plan on jumping back into this and watching this closely for any feedback or findings by Randy. Thanks all for the feedback and help.

5 hours ago, Larry Laursen said:

Kurtis,

Most likely the Nason switch on the park brake valve. 

SM-1C-66R/WP28 by NASON - Buy or Repair at Radwell - Radwell.com

I appreciate the advice. Thank you. Unfortunately, this was replaced already with no change.

I am very interested in any findings. I have the same issue currently and have had for about a year. (Only have owned the coach for about 2 years). The exact same complaint started after getting it back from a dealer / service center which did nothing to electronics / wiring/ etc. Currently I just have the alarm unplugged, which I do not condone, but unfortunately, have had other priorities on the coach that have had to be addressed first. 

48 minutes ago, Potholepicker said:

I decided to install the ML-ACR alone. I read somewhere on this forum that the component only requires a ground connection. Maybe it draws power through the 12V connections on the main lugs.

It is working with this configuration as designed. I may install the dash switch in the future.

Jeff

This is correct, only needs a good ground connection once the battery cables are hooked up. The relay uses 12v positive from the battery stud terminals for its power / function. The red wire is only used if the switch is used, sending a signal to override in combine or isolate modes via the dash switch respectively. Jacwjames…I wish I would have seen your post regarding the existing wires in the dash and using them would have saved me a bit of time, but I came to the same conclusion with switch install….lol

55 minutes ago, Doug and Nicki said:

This is likely power steering hoses. 

Completely agree (power steering). I’m dealing with it now on my Imperial. Power steer return line is seeping and even bulged in an area I found above the storage compartment. I actually discovered it on a fluke when replacing fuel lines for the AquaHot. Simply put, time to check all hoses and lines on your coach. We blew a coolant line in Kentucky going to the AquaHot rendering us in a not so pleasant spot on the side of I71 for a couple hours until we could make a temporary repair. Anyone who has replaced those hoses knows all to well…crummy job. Anyway, happy hunting for those looking for leaks and yes…..I sympathize with all. 

Hi all. I have been doing a bunch of work on my AquaHot lately. I’ve recently replaced supply and return lines, adjusted fuel pump pressure, on top of the annual maintenance items. All this because it was smoking extensively. I only mention this as I have done the same with drilling and taping an old nozzle to complete this. I have learned a few things in the process not described in the tech / shop manual or any videos. My intention is only to try and help and not muddy the water any more.

a few things to note….when you saw the single spark and saw the rise of fuel pressure…did the unit (fuel pump and fan) continue to run until you shut down the unit? Did it shut down immediately with no timed run to simulate cool down? Asking because a few things I noticed…if the flame sensor is exposed to light it should trick to think the system is running with flame and continue to run until you shut it down. However, if it is exposed to too much light before the ignition process it gets very confused.  I did have a situation that I had too much light when going to adjust, got a single spark and the whole unit shut down. If I made the surrounding environment darker ….it continued to spark until I had a flashlight over the flame sensor to simulate light and then ran with gauge installed with no issues. The 60ohms seems a bit off but I would have to pull the specs out of the shop manual. The manual specifies ohms both exposed to and not exposed to light.

keep up the great work!

Just curious…what awning? Make? Model? 12V or 110V? Obviously if 110V, make sure your plugged in or have generator power like my Mirage awning.