DZZippy

Just curious…what awning? Make? Model? 12V or 110V? Obviously if 110V, make sure your plugged in or have generator power like my Mirage awning.

Just my $.02…. Some of the diesel electronics I get fuzzy in. My gut feeling is it is electrical in nature at this point. The fact that it cranks takes Allison /  neutral safety out of the picture. It wouldn’t crank if there was an issue there…sorry to repeat what has been stated already.

is it possible that any of the sensors on the old Racor system where being monitored by the ECM? Granted that may be two problems then if a air lock occurred also. Just thinking???

need to retrieve codes / get access to engine data to see what’s going on.

I agree with jacwjames. I have seen this in the past with my various RVs. There is typically a weather boot that the cable passes through. The boot tends to leak at the large end (where it goes to the base) and the small end that the cable passes through. It may look good in a quick visual but I have experienced it before. A little sealer on both ends of the boot solved the issue.

1 hour ago, jlynn37064 said:

Kurtis, I found it.  You were right in the location of the male air line next to my generator. I was able to use that to attach a line from my garage compressor to have a constant supply of air.  By having my wife push the brake I finally felt air coming from somewhere. The noise of the air resonating in the tank was drowning out the sound of the air leak. I was able to feel the air near the hose.  I sprayed it with soapy water and the bubbles revealed the leak.  It’s the hose going to the driver’s side   Any recommendations for a source of brake hoses? 
 

thanks again for the help

Great news! I know it has been mentioned already, any local heavy duty truck parts place will have it or can source it. Just a suggestion, you may want to check the other hoses as well for overall condition. Thanks for the info.

1 hour ago, jlynn37064 said:

Thanks Kurtis, I have 6 brake chambers. How can I detect which one is leaking if soapy water won’t identify it?

I took time to video the underside and the parts that I have been soaping down. Here is a link if you are curious. Underside of 2006 Beaver

 My next step is to use pinch off pliers and pinch off the air lines to each chamber one at a time to see if I can get the air leak to stop. Hopefully this will identify a bad chamber. 

Great video and definitely gives everybody a better understanding what your looking at for sure. What you refer to as the caging bolt is indeed correct. The numbers you found on the drive axle chamber are indeed your model numbers. If for whatever you can’t identify it by part number any local heavy duty truck part place can manage for acquisition. 
 

Regarding the situation,  A couple things I definitely want to confirm though. It is my understanding that this only occurs when the service brake / brake pedal / treadle valve (different names names for the same for clarity). So, just for clarification:

1. Obviously no modifications to the air system where recently done and is “as is from the factory”. This is also assuming no recent work as well before you noticed the problem and changed your relay valve. Just making the statement in general as to the possibility of crossing an air line when performing any recent work by anyone.

2. After running the engine driven air compressor until full pressure and air dryer pop off / purge, the system holds pressure if the engine is shut down. Then, after blocking the wheels to make sure the coach doesn’t move, the parking brake is released and the system continues to maintain pressure after air equalization from releasing the brakes. 
 

3. the rush of air you hear is only when pushing the brake pedal and holding it with the second step completed. 
 

4. you don’t have an Air Force one braking system for a toad…..or similar system

PM or contact me or I will try and contact you in the meantime. We can discuss some various items or steps that could help. However, all I ask in return is that you post any findings here so we can all learn from our issues.

6 minutes ago, DZZippy said:

Great video and definitely gives everybody a better understanding what your looking at for sure. What you refer to as the caging bolt is indeed correct. The numbers you found on the drive axle chamber are indeed your model numbers. If for whatever you can’t identify it by part number any local heavy duty truck part place can manage for acquisition. 
 

Regarding the situation,  A couple things I definitely want to confirm though. It is my understanding that this only occurs when the service brake / brake pedal / treadle valve (different names names for the same for clarity). So, just for clarification:

1. Obviously no modifications to the air system where recently done and is “as is from the factory”. This is also assuming no recent work as well before you noticed the problem and changed your relay valve. Just making the statement in general as to the possibility of crossing an air line when performing any recent work by anyone.

2. After running the engine driven air compressor until full pressure and air dryer pop off / purge, the system holds pressure if the engine is shut down. Then, after blocking the wheels to make sure the coach doesn’t move, the parking brake is released and the system continues to maintain pressure after air equalization from releasing the brakes. 
 

3. the rush of air you hear is only when pushing the brake pedal and holding it with the second step completed. 
 

4. you don’t have an Air Force one braking system for a toad…..or similar system

PM or contact me or I will try and contact you in the meantime. We can discuss some various items or steps that could help. However, all I ask in return is that you post any findings here so we can all learn from our issues.

I just sent you a message with my phone number

30 minutes ago, DZZippy said:

Hey all. A lot of good information and everyone is accurate in my opinion. I have spent a couple decades working on fire trucks and emergency vehicles and obviously they have air systems and in many cases, more complex than our coaches. As an emergency vehicle technician, I had to follow DOT on top of a few more stringent items required by NFPA. Regarding air systems, the DOT tests that were referenced, are accurate. However there are a couple tests by DOT that are supposed to be conducted to detect air brake leak down rates as well. Some of these have been referenced already by you folks of leak down rates with engine off and engine running vs parking brake released, etc. In addition to,  air build up within a certain amount of time to pop off pressure based on engine speed. One of the other tests that I am referring more to in my replay, has to do with the engine running, parking brakes released, and service brake applied. The air compressor should still be able to maintain and build pressure to pop off by the governor. Based on the symptom / complaint, I have a feeling that test would fail. As many have eluded to, sounds like a leak on brake application side such as a ruptured diaphragm in a chamber of any sort (parking or not) on the service brake side, relay valve, or even “sense line” coming from the treadle valve (brake pedal) that goes to one of the relay valves. Possible hoses going from really valve to the service side of the chambers as well (I have found those to be insufficient many times). On a side note, if there is a ruptured diaphragm in a chamber, strong possibility that it will not produce bubbles with a soapy solution. The leak is internal of the chamber and can vent to atmosphere without producing bubbles inside the chamber. It does have a distinctive sound though. Just my $.02

I’m not going to try and side track this thread. I can definitely provide more information on the air system(s) in general if anyone wants, but I’m sure it will bore you and cure insomnia…lol

I figure someone else may have already put info out there on it as well but have not searched our plethora of info. Just want to help stay on target with the initial complaint / symptom

Hey all. A lot of good information and everyone is accurate in my opinion. I have spent a couple decades working on fire trucks and emergency vehicles and obviously they have air systems and in many cases, more complex than our coaches. As an emergency vehicle technician, I had to follow DOT on top of a few more stringent items required by NFPA. Regarding air systems, the DOT tests that were referenced, are accurate. However there are a couple tests by DOT that are supposed to be conducted to detect air brake leak down rates as well. Some of these have been referenced already by you folks of leak down rates with engine off and engine running vs parking brake released, etc. In addition to,  air build up within a certain amount of time to pop off pressure based on engine speed. One of the other tests that I am referring more to in my replay, has to do with the engine running, parking brakes released, and service brake applied. The air compressor should still be able to maintain and build pressure to pop off by the governor. Based on the symptom / complaint, I have a feeling that test would fail. As many have eluded to, sounds like a leak on brake application side such as a ruptured diaphragm in a chamber of any sort (parking or not) on the service brake side, relay valve, or even “sense line” coming from the treadle valve (brake pedal) that goes to one of the relay valves. Possible hoses going from really valve to the service side of the chambers as well (I have found those to be insufficient many times). On a side note, if there is a ruptured diaphragm in a chamber, strong possibility that it will not produce bubbles with a soapy solution. The leak is internal of the chamber and can vent to atmosphere without producing bubbles inside the chamber. It does have a distinctive sound though. Just my $.02

6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....due to too many similar posters.....the original post was for a 2009 Camelot and there is one FUSE and One Circuit breaker and that info has been posted.

The Switch in the post IS probably the reset for the Keyless entry.

Joe Lee's issues are a bit of a mystery as to actually WHAT his problem is.  He needs to be more specific.  I looked at his activity and can't find any previous issues.

FWIW, the Salesman Switch is for the HOUSE and this would be a Chassis issue.....and there are SOME MH's that have a Latching (or maybe Continuous) that come on when you start the engine and provide power up front....but the TYPICAL Door Salesman Switch is NOT involved. 

FWIW… my salesman switch on my Monaco switches does control power to the seats. Was hoping it could be that simple. Drove down the road once without power until I realized it was off…lol

Might be dumb to suggest….should we assume the salesman switch is on?!!

asking cause I did that once when we first bout the coach…couldn’t get either pedals or seat to work. Rapidly discovered the problem though.

Fwiw…HR’s? Im in?!?

Just now, tmw188 said:

Ok that’s the one I thought it could be, thanks

Your welcome and hope it helps

QCAA Solid Brass Storm Door Latch, Polished Brass, 1 Pack https://a.co/d/fpra3TX

Future reference for anyone interested… the exact replacement is available on Amazon and is listed as a “storm door latch / lock”. We just replaced ours this past year and had no modifications that were needed.

For sure interested. I have two broken and need to verify which sides for sure. If anyone is willing please let me know any further details. In the meantime I will verify which ones for sure in hopes for a good resolution.

I’m interested. I have two broken myself.

22 hours ago, Ivylog said:

When you have unlimited money, replace every 7 years. In the real world, if it’s not broke, leave it alone.

Very true. 

44 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I agree with Jim. I had a new radiator made and installed at CG&J in Gadsden AL for my Windsor back in 2015. The very first thing I noticed was my transmission temps were 10F higher than with the old radiator. Plus, the new radiator started to "seep" at the top about 3 years later. One bottle of Irontite solved that issue.

I, also, no longer recommend CG&J for any radiator work.

Well I guess I will stray from CG&J then. 

23 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I had replaced my radiator in 2015 with a CG&J unit.  Had several issues with the unit.  It developed seep that I cured with Irontite.  But I noticed that I was running higher transmission temps.  I contacted CG&J and they could not tell me how they size the transmission cooler, they offered to sell me a passive cooler (no fan) but I decided to go a different route.

I installed one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VQGVSU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mounted this at the rear of the coach and plumbed it in series with the radiator cooler.  The system made a big difference.  I have to back in to my  garage up a slight grade.  Prior to install I would see temps as high as 230F, now with the cooler installed it won't go above 180F.  While driving I usually am below 170, only going higher if I pull a hard grade but still stays ~180F.  I have installed a snap disc type temp controller on it so the fan does not run continuous, I believe it is ~150F

 

Wow, nice work. That may be an avenue for me. Thank you.

Will do. Just for clarification to all, I have and am referring to a separate transmission cooler external of the radiator.

1 minute ago, Adam_C said:

I got mine from CG&J Radiators. When I brought it in for a radiator leak they pressure tested the transmission cooler and it failed. Hadn't had any issues before that. 

I will check them out. Thanks for the info

Does anyone preventatively replace their transmission coolers? Does anyone have a good lead on where to get them?

I used to work as a technician on heavy emergency vehicles such as fire engines, ladder trucks, and some airport crash trucks. However, I was not a diesel tech or transmission tech by nature. When I got out of that industry (early 2000s) it was highly recommended to replace the transmission cooler every 7 years. The drivetrain matchup in several of those vehicles is similar to our Monaco’s. The manufacturer recommended replacement of the transmission cooler due to high heat transfer and the fact that the cooler will, regardless, eventually fail. In the past I have spoke with a couple Allison experts in my area that were adamant that the slightest coolant breach into a trans, will no matter eventually destroy a trans. As little as a couple tablespoons can mess with clutch material and it doesn’t matter how much flushing takes place. Essentially once coolant has made entry…looking at massive issues.

I can say that while I was in that industry I have seen some major transmission issues in emergency vehicles, mostly from using the wrong filters, so I will stay with genuine Allison filters and Transynd. I have seen only a total of 4 heavy duty trans coolers fail causing costly trans repairs. Just curious of the opinions out there and what people have done, come across, or experienced. Also, recommendations on sourcing one would be greatly appreciated in the conversation as well.

Thanks to all for any knowledge.

Hey all. I know that sometimes we read all the posts and never get a final resolution or reply from some. I just wanted to take a moment and let everyone know that I am extremely grateful for all responses. With all the research I have done and the several responses with additional info…success has paid off! I am actually working directly with a manufacturer of air leveling that is well know in the RV world. They are producing an “aftermarket” custom system for us to install after several calls, exchange of information, and research. It is still a few months out from a “in hand product” but they have listened with open arms and persistence on our part. I think they are just sick of hearing from me…lol I think this could be a real game changer for our rigs if anybody else is interested and needs a complete new air system. I do not wish to share any details regarding it at this point but will do so with anyone interested when we have the final product. Details to follow eventually.

9 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I was just flipping through an FMCA magazine looking at ads etc when I noticed a Master Tech ad saying air suspension repair and conversions.  I can't say what all they include in the term conversions but it caught my attention and I thought about you.

I don't know this company, but it is large.  Might be worth a call.

Master Tech Custom Coach RV & Marine | AMERCA'S #1 RATED RV SERVICE, COLLISION AND RENOVATION CENTER! | SALES@MASTERTECHRV.COM | 866-895-4556 

I will look into it. Thank you!

4 hours ago, dandick66 said:

I have the Valid system on my 2012 Diplomat.  I’ve attached the file with the air schematic.  As far as I can tell, Monaco didn’t change much over the years.  I’ve seen older schematics that look almost identical to mine.  

18623342_B (Schematic Pneumatics DEKA 43ft) Model (1).pdf 367.11 kB · 4 downloads

Perfect…thank you!!

2 hours ago, Bill R said:

Kurtis - My 2006 Windsor has the Valid system.  Roadmaster Chassis. The schematic Dan provided is very close to my system.

Excellent. Thank you!!

Thanks to all for the information. I did reach out to HWH in the past regarding active air…yep $10k, and they have to install and won’t sell directly to the customer for install. On top of it….they haven’t opened their shop for install since COVID (as of March) and I would be on the long waiting list so I’m told. They weren’t very helpful regarding my situation.

Since it was out out there that Valid was installed on some Monaco’s….does anyone have it on their coach? What chassis? Does anyone have pneumatic and electrical schematics? Those would be very beneficial. Thanks again!

Hello all,

I apologize for the length of this

I posted this question a bit ago and never got a response which I though was intriguing. Either my situation is very unique and never been handled in the Monnacoers before or everyone has been busy.

Our HR Imperial 42 PBQ originally had a Inteliride air system that controlled air leveling, tag axle functions, and travel height. Inteliride was bought by Firestone and now has a parent company out of Ireland. I have done a lot of homework in this system. I talked to the parent company, techs state side that are familiar (very few), REV, Coburn where it was built by Roadmaster, just to name a few. At this point it appears that many people I talk with end up getting more knowledge from me then I do from them. This system was an option upon factory production along with the counterpart HWH 600 series. This system is very antiquated, difficult to obtain available  parts, some parts obsolete, requires constant calibration (only with Windows XP software), and completely non functional in our coach. Since then, the decision was made to abort the system as we will have nothing but headaches from this point forward. Manual air ride height control valves have now been installed to keep the coach at least in “travel mode”. I still have to address the tag axle capabilities. I am a tech by nature so I can easily figure out some pneumatics and switching for tag dump and tag raise. 

Essentially we need to replace our system and the goal would be to replace it with similar functionality of the original Inteliride system or HWH series 600. I have had contact with HWH….no help unless I’m interested in Active Air. They have shut down the install shop and frankly I was told “We can’t help you”…..very disappointing. A company called Valid out of Canada has a great system that I would gladly install and currently they use it proprietarily on Spartan chassis. That’s where I have ran into additional issues with them. After speaking with program engineering, they have a system that would be perfect that I would install. However, Valid needs “approval” from a “Roadmaster” engineer. The Valid engineer and I discussed heavily in detail how I can install and program for the same functionally as I need. However, I still have yet to get a hold of someone to give me a good lead from Roadmaster/ Freightliner.

The ultimate question…. Has anyone replaced their air leveling air system and with what? I plan on installing myself and have full capability. I could go on for hours with the time invested in the research.

Thank you in advance to whomever.

9 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

One thing to remember when dealing with windshields is Do Not Use sealants that cure hard that are used on auto windshields.  Use sealants that cure SOFT so the glass can sort of float in their gaskets.  That way you will not have to deal with stress cracks.  

Absolutely true! Our windshield nightmare turned out to be a very long process. Long story behind it as well. Essentially our windshield was replaced due to rock damage (before buying the coach). Then after it “popped out” traveling in Ohio through horrible construction after we purchased…the fiberglass cap “relaxed” and required extensive work at REV for a 3 inch spacer to be put in the roof of the front cap, pushing it forward, and creating a better angle. Common on the one piece windshield as a solve all remedy. That was the best of 3 options proposed. Anyone who has dealt with the common issues of the one piece windshield knows all about it. Supposedly the spacer eliminates continuous problems. Way more to the story but that is the very supper short version.