ak49er

How wild of an idea would it be to consider this "Nuclear Option". CCM fries, no commercial or produced solution available. Sell Engine (mine is a low mileage Cat C-15), sell off any useable Chassis Multiplex Items to the next guy who may be able to use them. Convert Coach to an EV. I have a 12.5kw Generator on board already, there is a lot of unused roof space to mount more solar panels, more if I pull off the unused SAT TV systems. The rig tends to be hooked up to Shore Power 50% of our trips. I know I would lose my Vorad System and its Cruise Control Functions, but I believe it would be easier to interface a Cruise Control back into the system using a GPS sensor and the motor feedback data, etc. No need for a "Jake Brake" as one could have regenerative braking. Plenty of room for more batteries in the Engine Compartment once all that Cast Iron is gone, and they along with the drive motor and motor controller would compensate for the weight loss of pulling the motor. I'd of course miss the growl of that big diesel, and for range isn't that big of deal, we are touring from state to state, not trying to get across the country in a set time. Any ideas why this couldn't' be a final option?

With the Flickering lights on my three-gang center console switch, I'm sure I'll be in the market for a fix of some sort.

Thank-you so much, I never would have thought that there was website that would define the parts on the coach as it is a mix of two manufacturers. Kudos!

Thanks, yes I agree, my first thought ground issue, but where to start, it appears the answer is yes, start everywhere.

Ok, thank-you, this all makes sense, now that I've thought about it, I do remember the ABS light coming on randomly when I switched the ignition on after plugging this in, at the time I thought it had to do with unplugging the Bluefire Device.

Great ideas for sure. The hose is clamped near the 90* bend so my measurement was rough, but plausible. At the other end only the rough casting of the hose barb is exposed, I can see that the part that the hose covers is a smaller diameter and the casting is smoother and more refined. I'm in Alaska, my rig is in Arizona, my goal is to find the right part, order it, have it in hand and schedule a coolant flush and hose change before my next trip.

2008 Beaver Marquis Caterpillar C-15 ACERT During my first trip I noticed this connector that is on the Passenger Side of the engine was unplugged, it looks like it terminates into a Diagnostic Plug on the side of the Rear Run Box. Can anyone tell me what it does. I plugged it in and haven't noticed any changes.

2008 Beaver Marquis Caterpillar C-15 ACERT Looking for a part number or size of this reducer hose. I measured it roughly at 3" to 2" but I am not confident enough in the measurements to order a Silicone Reducer. The photo shows it coming off the water pump if I recall correctly, and the other end goes on to the long pipe that goes to the lower radiator connection. I noticed the bulging hose and shoddy clamp job after having a Roadside Repair outfit change my water pump last November.

2008 Beaver Marquis Hooked up to 50amp shore power. I noticed on my first trip that my passenger side clearance light would stay on at all times, not vey bright but noticeable. On my second trip I noticed that it had switched to the drivers side, on at all times. I also noticed that when I had my headlight switch in the middle position for Parking Lights only, the headlights were on but a bit dimmer than when I had them actually switched on. Additionally, after noticing this, the Wife and I changed out all the Interior lights to LED, they all worked fine as expected. I changed out the Cockpit lights with the Light switches off, I installed the one over the Driver, and it was lit dimly. I then Installed the one over the Passenger and it was off. I then installed the one just above the Passenger seat Headrest (under the Cabinet with the AV/SAT and Magnasine Remote Panel) the Passenger light now lit up dimly. I chose then to reinstall all three with Halogens and all three stayed off. Are any of these items related possibly? Any suggestions on where I should start to look.

I have flickering backlights on the three-gang switch panel in my center console, I believe the switches control Engine Block Heat, Aquahot Engine Pre-Heat, and the third I can't recall at this time, would you surmise that this is an internal issue with the PCB/PIC on the switches, or at the "Rear" CCM. And is there something I can do to correct it, or is this just a symptom of the Kongsburg Death Rattle?

Can anyone recommend the Amp Rating of the 12vdc to 5vdc converter that was suggested to use as the fix for the VIP Wheel? I see many options available. thank-you.

I am watching this thread very closely as I have a 2008 Beaver Marquis. I will be adding the 40 and 60 amp Automatic Circuit Breakers to the FRB in May. I would like to also have the 12vdc to 5vdc Converter on hand that is the Fix for the VIP should I need it. What amp converter would I need? If and when I ever need to attempt to fix any issue caused by the CCM or its switch blocks, I have been collecting any information can find such as these forum posts. We have been looking for a patch of land in the Southwest just in case this ever happens, and I am open to trying to apply any fixes. I am lightly versed in CAN Communications from a previous job, and have just enough skill and time to get in over my head. Before I bought this, we were looking at a Newmar that had some E-Plex issues and I wondered to myself if those couldn't be fixed Wirelessly with some sort of Raspberry Pi or Arduino components.