leadingsx

I am definetly sticking with butyl tape, just does not make sense to only trust sealant bead on the vinyl beltline cover. If your metal beltline has not allowed water to penetrate and the original butyl is still intact (where you are really just needing to shore things up with new rivets), then ya, that video sums it up perfect and no need to remove metal rails. But if you have to remove the rails...I would not even dream of "not" using butyl tape.

Thanks for the video share. I did see watch that video a couple times over the last month. Unfortunately the metal channel is never removed during the video, so my question remained unanswered by the video. I had no choice but to remove my beltline's metal track because it was gapped from the sidewall already and the sealant behind was no longer reliable. Anyway, I went ahead and used the butyl tape on the metal beltline rail sections that I had to remove and re-install. It worked nicely and as a benefit, the butyl oozed out of the old screw holes eliminating the need to inject sealant into them. I will be trimming back the oozing butyl from top and bottom of the metal track, reinstalling the rubber cover and then applying proflex to the rubber beltline cover strip. On the rest of the coach, I should be able to do it as shown in the video (fingers crossed). Thanks, Tim

I have a 2008 Monaco Dynasty Yorkshire where the beltline metal channel was attached using self-drilling screws. I removed about 20' of beltline so far and every single screw (except 5) were broken in half, or at the heads (see photo). The sidewalls are toast, complete delamination affecting about 1/2 of the entire coach. Yep, I got taken for a big ride on this one. I did get it for about $100,000 below my idea of fair value, but still, more damage than I thought. In any case, replacing the walls is not something in the budget right now, and to be honest, not sure it will ever be worth it, but at least I can stop it from getting even worse at this point. I will be using Stainless rivets to re-attach. I also have Clecos to assist. I contemplated using concrete screws as was suggested on another forum, as I wanted to be considerate of the fact that at some point I might start rebuilding sidewalls, but I think that would be a mistake since i'm sure it be a few years before I can afford to start. So my question...Should I be using butyl tape on the back side of the metal beltline (between the metal beltline and the fiberglass) as it "appears" is the case from the factory? Thanks for looking at my nasty mess! Tim

I am troubleshooting why I don't have Tail/Marker Light voltage on my trailer and found there is no 12volts on the brown wire at the RV's 7-way connector. I traced the wire back and found it goes into a "VALID MANUFACTURING" "TRAILER DETECTION MODULE". The label says Power Gear Part # 1010000894. Of course I can find absolutely nothing on google. The little module is located just above the breaker box in the engine compartment.Does anyone have any info on this mysterious little box? I was hoping to find a wiring diagram because one of the wires coming from the module was marked "GND" and it was connected to brown wire that leads down to the 7-way trailer connector. So I figured something had to be messed up.