Groovy

Thanks Rick , that helped out and I got it figured out. Need to upgrade that original camera for sure, picture is terrible!!

Hi folks- another electrical question. As I work through this rats nest I discovered my speaker harnesses (M9) plugged into a connection labeled M16a. I can't seem to find it on the diagram I have, looking for input. Perhaps it would go to an trip teck system or similar? My coach was not optioned with any monitoring goodies. Wires into the plug are labeled Fluid, cruise 1, stop, warning, oil psi, cruise 2 and a couple others Thanks always! Grant

Hi folks As I work my way through the surprises I have found a bundle of 7 wires tucked under the navigation unit as I was removing it. 3 red, 2 green a yellow and a white. One of the red wires is of fairly substantial gauge. They look like they have been there always, and writing on the wires matches all other in the coach so assuming factory installed. Curious if they may run to the back? Can't seem to locate in engine bay. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Hello friends I'm in the middle of removing the factory installed Panasonic radio / display and navigation system . Some one was in here prior to me and made a bit of a mess. Anyhow I am looking for assistance on the video conversion box. It has camera input and yellow RCA out that I will route to input of new deck / display. On the photo are 2 wires that are cut, a white which i believe is ground and a green. No clue what that is for. Any ideas? As well, there was a yellow wire in with the camera wire that went to M34 harness plug. It had a splice crimp connector on it so I'm suspect.... Camera did function, stereo and navigation did not when I started this. Thank you in advance Grant

Seal 12500875 / 4615 Wiper N-07 / 4615 My cylinder has .875" dia rod I have attached a photo of the 'rod end' side of the cylinder. I dont have the HWH part number for the cylinder handy but probably pretty universal if you have this style rod end and .875" dia rod. Cheers Grant

Hi Roy Both of my slide cylinders were leaking, one more than the other but.... I disassembled them and other than the rod end seals and wiper everything was in good shape. Synchro cylinder looked good and no signs of leaking. Functions as it should so I let it be. Worst part of the process was getting to the hydraulic pump underneath the front end lol. My local hydraulic shop was able to match up Orings, seals and wipers. Total cost was 23 bucks Canadian. Easy rebuild, only took a few minutes for each cylinder. Cheers Grant

Fantastic thank you Gary, that makes very good sense. Was thinking I could also connect the fittings at the cylinder together bypassing cylinders and forcing sync cyl back. I think for the cost of a few fittings I will use air Cheers! G

Good day fellow Monecoers I have just rebuilt both hydraulic cylinders for the main slide on my 2001 monaco signature. My issue is according to HWH the sync cylinder should have been in the fully retracted position before I removed the slide rams as their process notes the first move after installation of new rams is to extend them. My issue is the synchro cylinder is about half extended. Removed all lines from that cylinder to see if I could manually compress it but no go. I believe there are some hydraulic poppet valves inside that are holding it in place. Any ideas? Anyone been through the purge process? HwH said they would call me back in 2 weeks.... reluctant to just extend the slide cylinders and hope it works itself out for fear of putting myself in a worse position, albeit I'm not sure it cause any damage. Please and thanks Grant

Hi Jim Secondary fuel filter on ISM should be tight against the engine on passenger side. Access from underneath. If you have the factory racor system and it works, ignition key on and press the prime button on the primary fuel / water setup at rear of engine. That should prime the filter. May have to do it a couple of times.

Easy, maybe 3 minutes. Took passenger side engine bay 'vents' off and had full access. 11/16" wrench is all that was required to remove sensor.

Fixed! Crank position sensor was the culprit. New genuine cummins part and it fired up instantly. Old sensor looked recently replaced and noticed some slight difference between it and the new cummins part. Thinking the last one was Amazon sourced. Attached a photo, new part on the left. Thanks to all that replied, much appreciate it. On to air leaks and slide cylinders next!

Excellent Jim, will do. I've removed the sensor and off to parts store. Looks like it was possibly replaced recently but am curious if it was a 'genuine part'. Its suspicious inexpensive looking

Update - back from a little vacation. Checked fuel at head, lots at cranking and also checked return, lots of fuel as well when cranking. Created a short plug and have code 115 which is for engine speed sensor. Will be looking at a break in wiring but think that is the culprit. Locate and remove and off to parts shop next steps

Looking at a fuel flow diagram for the ISM - no individual lines to the injectors to bleed so I will check for fuel after the solenoid. If I have fuel there I should have fuel to injectors correct?

Agreed- it cranks fine so neutral safety/ Allison isn't the issue. Definatly need to pull codes to see if something is there. As far as I can tell the 2 prong plug from previous Racor system was a +12v ignition switched power source for the pump and a water in fuel dash light signal. The no start happened before I removed the old system. Sorta figured installing the FASS would solve. When I'm back in town I will check for codes and take the valve cover off / crack an injector line and see if I have fuel at cranking. Thanks for your input, every bit helps Grant

Thats probably a good next step - cracking a line at the head. I've probably put a years worth of wear on the starter at this point. Power for FASS was taken from front driver side electric compartment. Its good, and for troubleshooting I have just run the harness to a stand along car battery so I can be sure it has good power Excellent thank you Going to go through them individually Thank Ray , yes I learned first hand that the fuel gauges are, well, let's say I learned. Tank is full, filled it right to the top before I parked it. I've checked to make sure no one helped themselves to it as well :) Perfect ! Thank you Just on an impromptu vacation and will look at this the moment we return :) thank you all for the help

Thank you - good to know

Yes I believe it is there. Will look at how to retrieve blink codes. FORD had something similar way back when 👍

Hi - currently no. No way to get codes. May have to break down and find a mobile tech but want to eliminate any easy stuff. Thought - would the Allison TCM not powering up cause the ECM to be inoperative? Something along the line of neutral safety switch? Really feeling its electrically related...

Thanks Vito Yes - working hard indeed. Thanks for the reply. Temperature is pretty good where I am, about 50f. Truthfully was colder in Texas, Nevada and Utah when I drove through and never an issue starting when sitting there overnight. It used to start, then stall and then start again after a couple minutes but that cleared up after I ran out of fuel in Phoenix and changed up the filters. Pretty sure I had a small air leak that I 'fixed' before putting the FASS in. My aqua hot is out on the diesel side. AC side works for hot water but think the circ pumps are scaled up. I haven't gotten that far yet 🙂 I've heard the WD 40 may be a better alternative and I will try pumping the pedal - maybe I do have a big airlock and pumping it would help break it up Hi Ivan Yep, lots of possibilities for certain. I will check for power at the solenoid in RRB as you never know. Will double check ecm fuses and the other 2. Makes good sense it would be for solar and the transmission. cheers Grant

Hi Friends, Looking for a little input here, no stranger to diesel engines but the big stuff is new territory for me. Any thoughts are welcomed and encouraged 🙂 Short version - 2001 Monaco Signature (85,000mi) with 500hp cummins ISM ran well and now cranks but no start. No smoke, nothing. Long Version - Recently purchased this rig from Texas and drove home to BC Canada last month. Had been sitting for quite a few years but in good shape and most systems function as normal. I did manage to run it out of fuel in Phoenix AZ, From that incident I discovered that the factory installed Racor air / water purge pump system was completely inoperable. Had power to the unit but noting on it functioned other than a green power LED. The prefilter looked like it had never been serviced and since the purge / prime pumps and solenoids were dead I decided to replace that system when I returned. Got it running again and made it home after throwing an alternator belt 100 miles from the finish line (I have now ordered 2 sets of belts to keep as spares 🙂 Back home, parked it for a couple days and went to move it and no start. I saw a little diesel weeping from the Racor set up so figured it had air locked. I knew it would casue me grief sooner than later so good time to replace it. Ordered a FASS IND 165g system and installed it over the next few days. Installation was a breeze and think that was a good investment as it was going to easily cost more to replace with a complete Racor 700 series system or at the very minimum 400 series (hand primed). I am aware the ISM has no lift pump such as the CAPS system but am a fan of having some head pressure to the gear driven pump. Better filtration is a plus too as there are now 3 filters on the fuel system. Purged the lines / filters and hit the key. Crank but no start. Fed it a little ether to see if I could win it over, but no go. It will cough on starting fluid but its not getting fuel. Cracked the filter at engine (factory FS1000) just to make sure no air in system and just fuel. Cracked the compucheck port on the 90deg fitting supplying the gear driven fuel pump past the filter and fuel is present there, no air noticed. Verified +12v at fuel solenoid and it clicks. I am led to believe this to be operational. Removed chassis batteries and charged, they were new in September of last year, take and hold charge well. Not certain where to go from here. I am thinking it is electrical in nature as it ran good and then it didn't, however not ruling out anything at this point. I did notice a 20A fuse on the chassis batteries harness was blown. There are 4 weatherpak style fuse holders in that harness. Two are 15A and I believe identified on the wiring diagram as ECM. I cannot figure out the other two, including the blown 20A. Maybe this has something to do with it. I did replace and it did blow again. Just not certain what circuit it supplies. I think I have checked over every other fuse, but again if something rings a bell let me know and I will double check. I have tried starting from the rear controls and same outcome. For the record I did return the switch to FRONT. Thought there may be a connection from the key ignition not getting through but trying from the rear controls should rule that out? Could it be so simple as the ignition switch itself?? So, possibilities? It either is not getting fuel to injectors or it has fuel and injectors not firing. 1. Electrical and maybe that fuse has a role to play. 2. ECM - I am getting the 2 lights on dash with key on so thinking it has power 3. Cam position sensor - they are a 4 wire design, believe there is a redundant circuit. not likely but a possibility? 4. really really really bad air lock? I've cranked on it long enough and fed it enough starting fluid that I have a hard time accepting this.. however... 5. Bad gear driven fuel pump - would it just die? again, not so sure. I should be able to crack a line after the pump and see if it weeps? 6. Solenoid - 12v present at Key ON, applied 12v direct from chassis batteries and can hear it click. functions but maybe its full of junk and not allowing fuel past. Guess I should remove and visually inspect. Still really feel like this could be the culprit in some way, shape or form. Thank you all in advance - leaving for our trip October 1 of this year so have a little time LOL Cheers Grant

Excellent thank you, I found the relay marked fuel filter on Driver side rear box. Purple wire at pump / filter connection but I will see if it traces back there

Thanks for the replies - IVAN K that water sensor could just be a switch independent of ECM like you say. That would be best case ISM has no electric pump prior to the gear driving fuel pump that pulls fuel through the racor set up. I believe there is a fuel pressure switch after that pump so ECM knows to fire injectors but nothing downstream. I know the CAPS systems are a little different with the factory electric pump that runs 30 seconds at key on (I think??). The Racor unit has key on power, so my thinking is I can use that to switch a relay for 30AMP circuit to FASS pump. Still unable to find the diagram showing power the unit. Maybe I will dig some more on the coach and trace back to the next connector and go from there. Again - thank you all for the replies G

Hi folks - looking for a wiring diagram (or just confirmation) for the 2 prong weatherpak plug at the factory Racor air / water purge pump. Believe one side is +12vdc and the other may be a signal wire to 'water in fuel' light. I am replacing that setup with a FASS and want to retain as much factory wiring as possible. I would like to use the one side as a key on signal for a relay and then if the other is indeed a water in fuel light retain that feature. I have some factory schematics but cant seem to find that particular circuit. Any information would be appreciated. Cheers Grant