Agpopp

Had a ball this afternoon in the closet floor. I was able to do it all without disconnecting the ac lines. I used a lashing strap to a hook in the closet to keep the weight off of it and was able to make it all work. The Advance Auto Parts near me rents the AC clutch puller I needed for free, so that was a bonus. I did cut and splice the connection so the polarity is now correct, and based off the wiring, whoever built that harness simply swapped the terminals when putting into the connector. AC clutch is now functional and operates with the condenser fan with no issues. Only problem now is I have 0 PSI low side and 50 on the high. So maybe there is a blockage or the TXV is plugged. 🤷‍♂️. Never ends.

My condenser fan is definitely pulling in through the door. Anyone else want to check thiers for a tie breaker?

Ok ill look around

Want to swap my table and chairs for a booth in my Neptune. New Vintage Oak is the wood and Tan beige is the fabric I need. Let me know what you have.

Didn't get to it yet but thanks!

Alright, I have a field coil coming from ACparts.com for 50 bucks, so one last help from the group thar I need..... Since I know the polarity of my AC compressor pump is backwards and before I flip the position of the connectors, can someone tell me if the condenser fan on the rear side box should be pulling air in through the door or pushing it out of the door. Let me know on your rigs. This will help me to understand if it was a factory polarity mistake or if someone made an accidental switcheroo on a repair slice somewhere. Thanks!

Lots of youtube vids out there on patina type hot rods and such.

I've seen this around and have wondered if anyone has tried it on the peeling clear on our coach caps and radius sections? Lots of good reviews and seems very durable. https://poppyspatina.com/products/poppys-patina-gloss-clear-kit

Called a flyback diode, spikes can be up to 50v when the clutch kicks off. Here's the 4306 schematic.

Yes, ohms are .01 so it is shorted, but I don't want to short the next one, so that's why the polarity matters. We suspect the diode is what is shorted to ground and the diode won't work if the polarity is wrong and will eventually kill the coil, as most likely what I have now.

Put 60 miles on it today, all seems well. Took a good deal of effort and time but now I know what I'm working with. Thanks to all who chimed in and provided help and part numbers.

Talked to a guy today from ACparts.com in Texas. Very knowledgeable and was willing to help. Said he doesn't see many with a dead short but it does happen. I explained to him the the 2 pin connector on my coach has 12v and ground switched as compared to the AC compressor plug. So essentially I'm feeding 12v into the black wire and ground to the red. He thought that the diode certainly would be cooked and causing the short being hooked up backwards. He did have the field coil available for around 50 bucks, but watching some vids, seems to be a joh that will prove difficult through the closet floor. Would anyone with a Neptune / Cayman be willing to check out the connector and polarity situation on thier coach? See what's really going on here.

Was under my 24v Cummins ISB Rear Rad Neptune the other day welding on a skid roller to the hitch and was blown away at the way the factory mounted the rear (or crank pulley side) engine mount. I can't believe I never noticed it's actually sitting on the hitch! What a crazy way to engineer this thing. So the hitch actually supports the entire nose of the engine, the rad, charge air cooler, fan shroud and whatever tongue weight you may have on the hitch. ( and now the roller for my new paved driveway upon entry and exit). Are the other chassis and engines engineered this way? Seems like a poor albeit cheap design choice. There are 6 bolts on either side, so plenty of shear strength but the horizontal loading of the cross tube seems like a weak spot of it ever rusts. Maybe I'm crazy 🤪?

Hope you can get the lock going again. I was never given a key for mine, I wonder if it has the same issue. We just use the deadbolt, but reading this makes me wonder if I can order a key for it. I think the tumbler has a 7 on it.....think I'll do some searching.

Tried to disconnect the condenser fan and hook up compressor but still same result. Guess I'll be on the phone looking for a clutch. I'll post back when I have a solution.

Wanted to bring this back around and add some info for the Neptune / Cayman crew. Need to install a controller in my 2006 36PDQ coach so I started by looking for the connection in the driver's left console, then under the dash and on the main loom. Finally found it stuck down in the steering column cover and it happened to be the only wire bundle in a split loom. The connector is not like any I found mentioned, rather a flat 4 wire 4 pin with 12v Ignition, ground, trailer in and out. The fun then began when I probed the terminals and found the power was 12v pedal off, and 0v pedal on as mentioned earlier. I then read a document mentioning the relay being set-up backwards and did locate it in the front road run box, the first relay on the right hand side. The relay did in fact have the wire in 87A so I de-pinned it and moved to 87. Back in the coach the power is now correct and is in fact sending power to the trailer plug. So now I'm off to find a controller to install. Here are some photos for future installations.

It spins free, first thing I did.

That's a thought. I'll disco the fan and rehook the compressor to see what happens. Though it was running and sounded smooth.

I can get at it, but doubt I can do it on the motor. Probably have to evacuate and recharge to R and R it.

Good question Ray, in the front road box there is a 20 amp breaker installed instead of a fuse. I've never seen one like it, but it's doing its job. 20230607_115620.mp4

Dash air on this new to me did work for a short time. PO gave me all the bills and in August of 20 had the entire system rebuilt- new compressor, dryer, TXV, and some lines. Working on troubleshooting yesterday, have plenty of static pressure, so I jumped the low pressure switch to see if I could make the compressor start. I heard the relay in the front box click, then click and click. Relay felt hot to the touch. Pulled up the closet floor and I disconnected the connection for the compressor, and immediately the condenser fan in the side compartment began to run....I've never heard it run before. So using my meter, I found power and ground in the connection and hooked it back up, killing the condenser fan. Got some jumper wires and swapped the polarity of the connection to the compressor just for a test and wow did those alligator clips get hot in a hurry! So bottom line is I conclude the less than 3 years old Sanden 4306 compressor is shorted internally? Is it junk? Anyone with another opinion? PO spent thousands on this repair, so I feel it's worth poking around, otherwise I'd just rely on the roof air.

In the middle of all of this I had my house driveway paved, so I couldn't go for a test ride. Went for a loop the other day and the only hose that gave me trouble was the 4 inch silicone one that is in the worst spot behind the oil filter. It showed no signs of leak until I put a load on it. I lost 3 gallons of coolant between the 2 mile loop and while getting soaked dropping the oil filter and changing the clamps. The special silicone clamps must have made the hose pucker on the fittings and would not stop leaking. I swapped them out for regular hose clamps like were on there before. Time for another test ride.

I posted this recently, pretty accurate for my coach. https://www.monacoers.org/topic/6383-dayco-hose-and-belt-resource/?_rid=6578

On my 5.9 ISB, one goes to the midpoint of the upper metal coolant pipe and the other goes to the highest point on the engine bypass cooling circuit.

Should be a regular parker style barb. The yellow is just a stopper. Cut about 3 inches from the end and reattach with a hose clamp. The factory put clamps on some and not others, and should just be 3/8 heater hose.