Wayne Thomas

Thanks Tom you know your Monaco’s 

     How you ever heard of two fittings next to the generator? Why would someone remove the mail fitting this RV has had it share of problems from the leveling system to tracing a short in the tail light that took a while to find and removing the 3m coating on the front that should of come off well before I got it in 2017 but I got in real good shape I call it my 70 dodge charger I always wanted to buy and restore I put about 20000 in it I install a Pitt in my pole barn s I can get under it  a well built machine

Ben I’m the third owner I don’t know what the other owners have changed one fitting has a valve behind it yes your right one should be a male I will have to trace the lines and figure out which one get the male but they both were place there from the factory they must of changed it in later years as far as the pressure goes it only makes sense to be able to fill your tires up I had my Rv weighted and I bumped the pressure up to the next setting on the tire chart 105 in front tires and 100 in rear 4 tires no tag

Thanks to everyone who responded . I’m a retired carpenter  I did read the manual 6 years ago (but forgot some things) I have a PKD I don’t think it matters my air chuck is not next to the lp tank but my manual said it is and my manual said it only puts out 95psi because of a restriction valve and here’s the kicker I have two female chucks next to the generator both with black plastic caps and they look like they’re the same greater all this  I’ll go out and buy a pancake compressor 

the manual also said the fitting up front is a male for  the tow truck lol thanks again for jarring my memory this Monaco web site is very helpful I like it as much as YouTub

On my 2002 Windsor l have an air chuck next to my generator my question is how much air pressure does it put out .does it put out what’s on the gage on the dash or is it only a 100 lbs.

I turned down the thermostat to 50 degrees and the furnace turned off then moved it up to 55 and it stayed off then up to 60 and it came on it shut off when it got to 70 according to the mercury thermometer 

I hung the mercury thermometer at the same level as the sensor under the overhead cabinet. I guess my thermostat is 10 degrees off

On 1/9/2024 at 10:05 AM, Tom Cherry said:

First test.  When you turn off the thermostat, by using either the zone and mode functions…. Does the furnace shut down?  Next….if NOT, then try the ON/OFF button.

The final “try this”…. With the Thermostat off (switch), then hold in the MODE and ZONE buttons….keep holding and turn ON the thermostat…. Should see FF on the Thermostat.  
 

If that doesn’t work, one final thing to do before tearing into the furnace.  If you have a manual on the furnace and can get to the control wiring, there is a “control” or thermostat set of terminals.  The funace is designed so that the control module in the HVAC zone (most likely Zone 1) closes a set of contacts.  There are two “blue wires” that make this circuit.  It is like an ON/OFF or light switch.  When the thermostat says “heat”, the two wires in the controller are closed….so that the furnace comes on.  There is NOT any DC or voltage on that line.  It is called a “dry contact” line.  You can download the install manual for the original Dometic Penguin.  There is a schematic of the control module.  If, when the HVAC System is OFF, the circuit to the two blue wires (they change color when they leave the control module) is OFF….then time to start into the furnace.

My logic would be to verify the thermostat and control module first.  Simple and a quick continuity test on top (assuming you have a 15K unit….13.5 K are supposed to be INSIDE in the plenum)….pull the cover…

THEN the chase begins….

Thanks Tom The system will turn off with the mode switch after a couple of minutes but not when it reaches temp or when its turn down real low and the heat and air on the roof units work fine had the sensor over the passenger seat replaced a few years ago

My gas furnace doesn’t turn off but the roof top heat pumps turn off when they reach set temperature, my furnace is located under my refrigerator on my 02 Monaco Windsor. I believe it could limit switch?

On 1/4/2024 at 10:24 AM, Tom Cherry said:

I had to pull mine and have one panel replaced. I was sort of LUCKY and UNLUCKY. I got a "projectile" in a campground in Oregon in early July, 2018. It shattered the lower panel...or more precisely, the outer pane of the dual pane window. I used a copious amount of Gorilla Tape and was able to also reinforce it with horizontal staves of lightweight aluminum strapping from Lowes. I then drove over 2,300 miles to Elkhart (a planned trip or leg of our journey). I was able to contact the original supplier and they made up all new panels for the window. It was a three panel window with a sliding (up) section. I was fortunate in that their turn around was exactly the DAY that the shop, which was working on other items, completed their work.

OK....PRACTICAL AND WHAT I LEARNED...

As Ivan said, there MAY be screws in the lower (Front) corner and it looks like a MISSION IMPOSSIBLE task to get them out. Remember, Monaco installed the window FIRST....then the DASH. However, a small ratchet with a "hollow" 1/4" hex hole and a short (had to grind it down) #2 bit allowed the bottom (most forward) screw to be removed without pulling the dash.  YES...IT LOOKED Daunting, but I had a tool like that with me and saw that IT could be done...  WHEW.

OK...then the SHOP TOOK OVER. The shop was run by an EX Monaco Supervisor and he KNEW what he was doing. PULL ALL THE INTERIOR SCREWS... Then start the removal. Do NOT BE SURPRISED....if it takes WAY MORE FORCE than you suspect and are NERVOUS about applying. There is a layer of sealer or Double Stick Tape attaching or holding the frame to the exterior side wall. ALSO...there MAY BE A GIFT from a Monaco Assembler. The shop foreman said it was really quite common...maybe more than 50% of the time, for the hole to be cut...."a little too small".  SO, the Assembler used a BIG, lead shot loaded, RUBBER MALLET and proceeded to make the WINDOW "FIT" as in DRIVE IT IN. He said that you would see ONE corner of the window frame sort of "CRUNCHED" and that there would be a similar spot on the side wall. KEEP WORKING SLOWLY and break loose the tape and then work very slowly around the perimeter of the window...a smidge at a time and get it out.

You WILL have to straighten the frame...once out. You WILL have to use a "tool", as in a big piece of steel and ball peen hammer and then sort of beat FURTHER IN the offending corner. You MUST get the opening to what was the intended size to keep from damaging the frame...  You do NOT want to have to beat it back in place like it was first assembled.

Your Glass Shop needs to know that there was NO MAGIC sealing of the interior space of the panes. Some have posted, erronously, that Monaco purchased SEALED panes (as in there was a Vacuum pulled on the panels and an inert gas like Nitrogen or Argon was injected so that the interior of the two panes were sealed and NO MOISTURE).  I talked to the lady that ran the "OEM Glass Shop".  She said that was false. All they did was put in the TWO panes and seal them...no vacuum like you will or may find on a residential two pane glass.

The Shop will also have to match the TINT (Mine was ordered as an exact OEM replacement so it was tinted like the REST of the windows in the MH) and then have to be tempered. 

NOW, some of the aftermarket shops do NOT do this. There is one, well known, shop that has TINTED WINDSHIELD (Two Panes with a plastic liner) Panels. They then cut and FIT a new Windshield Glass instead of going through the process of measuring and replacing the two panes with standard tinted glass, then having them tinted or maybe tinted first. They have "determined" the amount of tint, so it matches. 

They will replace only ONE pane...but recommend that you do all THREE panes....as in you want to look the same.  AND, they have to pull apart the window and totally disassemble....so it is easier if they replace all the panes.  

NOW, I watched the OEM Supplier's Techs work on my window. The panes were a PERFECT (dimensionally to the nearest 1/32") size of the OEM. I had all THREE. It took 3 techs about 2 hours to get it all back together.  They DO NOT GRIND or "fit" the panes. They just keep assembling and disassembling and "whacking" and pushing and pulling until the frame goes back together and all the parts fit. They seemed to know what they are doing. The lady that ran the shop said that making NEW glass, cut exactly to the OEM Dimensions (They had all the prints on my glass and frame and window and such..._ was an ART....and they spent ONE DAY on one....one time.

NOW...  Your Glass Shop may use a different technique....  

BUT, that is my experience....

Good Luck...

Tom your right about replacing all three panels . I have 2002 Windsor my sliding glass panel is fogged up, so about 4 years ago I stopped in to a glass company in Kent narrows Md. they were going to charge me 1200 dollars.They would remove my whole window unit make a template reinstall the window unit give me a call when it came in remove the window unit and install new glass and install.I should of taken them up on it but now they don’t work on RV’S they refer me to another place and they want to replace all of the windows (3) and their reason is in case one breaks while removing.I never got a price because I knew it would be to expensive. I’ve tried in my area can’t find anyone else I live in delaware

On 12/30/2023 at 9:47 AM, cbr046 said:

When towing 4x4 . . . . how do you disengage the steering wheel lock?

- bob

I called the dealership and ask the service manager that question and had look it up.you don’t get that question every day but the answer on my 2016 Jeep grand Cherokee all wheel drive is when you disengage the transfer box it automatically disengage the wheel lock

2 minutes ago, Wayne Thomas said:

I called the dealership and ask the service manager that question and had look it up.you don’t get that question every day but the answer on my 2016 Jeep grand Cherokee all wheel drive is when you disengage the transfer box it automatically disengage the wheel lock

My owners manual didn’t say anything about the wheel lock in the step by step procedure so I was wondering the same thing so I called the dealership 

17 hours ago, gdroberson said:

ok towed trailers for ever not tried flat towing I have a 2020 ford ranger and thinking of setting it up to tow but dont know what is a good setup thinking of picking up a used blue ox bx 4325 tow bar can get at a good price but dont know if it is a good tow bar or if I should look for something else that would be better dont have a clue of what I need so any suggestions' would appreciated thanks Gary

I have the Ready Brute Elite 2 no need for DC power no box to remove from the tow vehicle just disconnect tow bar from vehicle and cable connection the system works mechanically when you apply the brake your tow vehicle moves forward which activates a lever to pull on cable connected to the brake  pedal and if I’m correct you have to run a cable for emergency disconnect on all systems. I towed my jeep grand Cherokee across country no problems. It comes with a red light to mount on the dash but I didn’t hook it up because you can see the cable tighten up when you apply brakes through back up camera. I installed blue ox base plates they will provide any base plates you want . The system cost 1600 and I didn’t have to buy the 1000 dollar box and the extra steps to remove it from the brake pedal. No need to charge car battery less steps to install and remove 

2002 Monaco Windsor/ 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 

On 5/12/2023 at 10:01 AM, Dr4Film said:

Mike,

If your parking place at home is reasonably level then I would suggest that after you get parked at home, dump all the air from the bags so it will not leak down in one corner tipping the coach to one side and tweaking the windshield. Then when you are ready to leave, air up the coach to ride height.

When using the HWH Air Leveling System, Frank M. recommends that once you are level, turn the system off so it won't constantly attempt to re-level the coach possibly burning up the motor.

The HWH Auto-mode Air Leveling System works this way: It will first DUMP air attempting to level the coach. Then if needed it will raise the coach using either air from the tanks or its onboard compressor to fine tune until all of the orange lights go off. The coach will level faster with the engine running as it uses the air from the large tanks to raise the sides or ends.

This is all explained in the operator's manual for your specific HWH model and system. 

I live in Delaware would any auto glass place be able to replace a one pcs. Windshield or would I have to go with a RV center . 
 How long does it take to get one my windshield is in great shape I always keep my distance from the vehicle in front of me but dread the day I get a crack

On 5/12/2023 at 9:23 AM, CountryB said:

I'm at RV Glass Solutions now getting my windshield replaced - again. This is the third time that it cracked (when not being driven) during the startup and leveling process. I think the coach wheelbase is just too long (at 24ft) and the frame twists too much once the auto leveling starts. Last two times I was parked at home and went out to start coach and level it (as it will leak some air when sitting letting back corner drop a little). So I start the engine, build up air pressure, and hit the HWH auto-level button. I think that is my mistake. The Coach lifts and drops and creaks and pops, then the windshield cracks.

While the glass was broken I figured that would be good time to "test" the leveling system - but it seems  to be working fine. Nothing unsual going on.

I guess I should play it sage and only level manually from now on.

However, I think it is a design defect on the mid-year Beaver Patriot.  So I'm just writing this to warn any other coach owners with a long wheel base to be careful and maybe not use auto-leveling (manually level, then switch to auto mode once it is level).

Mike

My 40’ 02 Windsor did the same thing I turned it off real quick never did it again.now I level it manually then turn it off.

On 11/9/2023 at 8:16 AM, jacwjames said:

You do have a slide control (at least I do) in the same bay, mine is located on the lower left side.  It is the same slide controller that is used for my other slides and it looks like this https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/kib-slide-out-control-board-kibsoc1020awd/

Can you hear the pump run when you press the switch in either direction?? 

My generator slide is a Power Gear.  See attached info

I sometimes have the same problem and have done different thing to try and fix.  I believe the culprit is the lock valve which in the block located on the end of the cylinder.  The pump is reversible, which is what allows for the IN/OUT of the slide.  There are two hose going to the cylinder, the valve block they attach to has an internal lock valve which prevents the slide from moving in or out!!! 

In the past I've taken the cylinder apart and completely cleaned.  Removed the block and cleaned.  I've found the lock valve stuck and had to use air to blow it out (covering the block with a rag as the air pushed the lock valve out at high speed when it lets loose).  Do not damage the lock valve.  At one point ~10 years ago I even bought a new lock valve, which helped but didn't completely solve the problem.  I paid ~$75, current price is ~$350 https://store.lci1.com/assembly-valve-090-1149-365324 

 

On my last trip at one point the slide wouldn't move when I had just stopped the rig so it was hot.  The next morning it worked fine.

One thing I try and remember to do is when I put the slide the slide back in I hold the button for a couple seconds, this my purge the lock valve and any trash in the system. 

Generator Slide Lock Valve.pdf 116.3 kB · 12 downloads Power Gear Generator Slide Manual 82-S0298-00.pdf 144.6 kB · 12 downloads

Thanks Jim I held the switch in for a few  seconds after it closed works fine now I down loaded your links for future use thank you

On 11/10/2023 at 9:39 AM, Wayne Thomas said:

Thanks James I’ll check it out 

I checked the relays if I’m correct there are four in the forward chassis bay switch the two bottom ones got it to go out stopped it 3/4 of the way out then brought it in came in a little slower then I extended it all the way would not come so I had my wife hold the button in while I pushed it in it started in and then it was on its own but still sluggish all plug ends have no signs of corrosion 

23 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Wayne

If you were pushing the switch and the pump wasn't coming on it might be a loose connection on the pump and/or the harness on the slide controller.   If you hear the pump running there probably isn't anything wrong with the controller, it is probably the locking valve that is sticking. 

If you don't hear the pump running it may be a connector issue.  There is one harness on the slide controller, you might pull it off and inspect to see if there is any signs of corrosion, clean it and maybe use some dielectric grease on it.  I checked on my rig and there is not a fuse at the pump so it is only protected by the fuse/circuit breaker on the control board,  You might pull those and just make sure the are seated good.

There is only a two wire connector at the pump, you may try to clean it also. 

 

 

 

Thanks James I’ll check it out 

9 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Typically, when a slide, especially the “trouble prone” early Windsor genny slide, starts to creep, the hydraulic valves need to be cleaned.  This was called “The Monaco Teflon phase”.  There were shards of Teflon tape that would lodge or contaminate the valves.  Even folks with a low DIY index pulled them apart and flushed the body and ports and cleared up the issue.  Drifting is a sign that valve didn’t seal or close, thereby “locking” the fluid so that the cylinder wouldn’t move.

Second, don’t quite understand your “hitting” the fuse box.  There is a print in your manual on the system.  There is a control circuit, memory here, that has to have the parking brake set and also a microswitch working. 

Jim just posted a more detailed description.  @jacwjames, could you post or edit and include the print and controller.  Hitting or banging on electronics is dangerous.

Jim is a great resource.  However, my memory of the Windsor owners fix, was only a periodic “let’s clean the valve”.  He has gone further, however if the Teflon shard contamination was more widespread, then obviously you need to address the cylinder instead of just the valve.

@Wayne Thomas, you might want to PM or reach out to Jim for a one-on-one explanation and also learn how the hydraulic as well as control circuit works. I have helped folks on the circuit when I had the print “pulled up”….but all my prints are in my laptop and I often respond from my IPad like today.  Be very careful with a hammer or whatever and “striking” boxes or unidentified components as many on your MH are no longer available and used ones are scarce.  Having to find a tech that can order a “similar generic one”, then fully understand the original control’s function and then modifying the generic one….is risky and expensive.  It has been done.  We have many here that have done it.  But misdiagnosis and the actions taken have resulted in a simple fix turning into a mega $$ event.  This comment is NOT an admonishment of you or such, but is a general statement to all members of the risks in using unconventional techniques when not 100% sure of how a system works.  From time to time, we need to make if…..and do.

Jim will be a great help.  Really good guy.

 

My switch is in the front driver side of the Rv electrical box I was pressing it from in to out several times then it started inward I did hear the pump

I took my 02 Monaco Windsor to DMV when I got there my gen slide was out one inch try to retract it with dash switch and fuse box switch no luck but I could extend it keep hitting the fuse box switch and after a while got it to retract no leaks is there a relay somewhere 

My mechanic charge me $245 he crawled on his back to do the front and used my Pitt to do the rear I told him I would turn the Rv around so he could use the Pitt he said it would take to much time

I just had 8 Source Engineering shocks installed on my 2002 monaco windsor it rides like a dream so solid and smooth . I’m glad I did my homework on shocks  konl’s were 1600 and some odd dollars Bilistens were 1042 and the modify bilistens from source engineering were 1400 something. Source engineering made them specifically for road master frames Don’t mess around just go to source engineering.

Moderator EDIT.  Source Engineering paid Bistein for the “Shock Van” and also paid for all testing and development of the “Source Bilatein”.  This was done many years ago and the valving is proprietary and Source “owns” that.  Bilstein cannot manufacture for anyone else for sell through a distributor.  Source does not MAKE shocks.

End of EDIT.

Don’t understand 

22 hours ago, Wayne Thomas said:

Going to install Koni shocks on my 2002 windsor  I’m a retired carpenter and backyard mechanic, when I built my pole barn I installed a pit 16’ long. So I have easy access to them are any tricks out there in lining them up .?

   Never installed shocks this large 

Jim from source engineering convinced me to go with his shock it’s an advanced Holstein 200 hundred less. This shock is engineered for road master chassis’s 

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

Wayne,  Having a pit you may be able to attach the top and push up on the shock to attach the bottom.

I used a ratchet strap to compress my shocks.

Good luck, let us know.

Thanks Ray

Going to install Koni shocks on my 2002 windsor  I’m a retired carpenter and backyard mechanic, when I built my pole barn I installed a pit 16’ long. So I have easy access to them are any tricks out there in lining them up .?

   Never installed shocks this large 

On 8/22/2023 at 11:44 AM, Dr4Film said:

I put Koni''s on my 2002 Windsor back in 2010. I had to replace three in 2017 that were leaking. They were free under the lifetime warranty.

8805-1004 SP1 MAGNUM FRONT
8805-1005 SP1 MAGNUM REAR

They had sent the wrong ones for the rear if I remember correctly. Had to ship them back and get new ones. Can't remember the reason but I think it had to do with the mounts.

On 8/22/2023 at 11:44 AM, Dr4Film said:

I put Koni''s on my 2002 Windsor back in 2010. I had to replace three in 2017 that were leaking. They were free under the lifetime warranty.

8805-1004 SP1 MAGNUM FRONT
8805-1005 SP1 MAGNUM REAR

They had sent the wrong ones for the rear if I remember correctly. Had to ship them back and get new ones. Can't remember the reason but I think it had to do with the mounts.

Great I like the lifetime warranty 

Thanks Jim

  I think I’ll go with the Koni shocks but tell me more about the air  bags