Venturer

After I wrote the above post, I saw how cheap the recharge kits are and went to my local NAPA store and purchased one. It's similar to what you recommended, but with shorter hoses and no case. When the weather warms up a bit, I'll see what I have for pressures. Hopefully, it's a small leak and not the new compressor failure. 

I just had the inoperative dash AC diagnosed and found a bad compressor which was replaced with a new one. It worked great, for a while. When I adjusted the temp dial from very cold to less cold, it started blowing very warm air. Turning the dial back to max cold had no effect on the temp. I shut it off for 30 minutes. When turned back on, it blew cold air as it should. That sounds like a mixing valve/door issue to me. The more important problem is that after 4 days of cooling, the air became less and less cool eventually reaching the same temp as OAT. That seems like a slow leak in the system. I'm thinking I could buy a set of gauges to check and recharge the system myself till I can get back to the shop that did the work to find the leak. What is the recommended Recharge kit to use? I see some with a can of R134a, gauge and hose to add to the low-pressure side which seems simple enough. However, without knowing the high-pressure side, isn't it possible to get it too high?  It's been 30+ years since I did this with our farm tractors and combine, so I'll need to reeducate myself. 

We just returned to WI for the summer. 2200 miles with 4 fuel stops at TA Truck Stops. It's so easy to fill without going inside and easy in and out with ample parking for our 63'. My fuel cost averaged $3.38/gallon with the TSD/Open Roads card. Add to that the convenience and availability, it's a no brainer for me. We keep $2,000 to $4,000 in that checking account for fuel and other expenses at our AZ home. No issues in 4 years.

Edit: The average discount was $.38, and the highest was $.78/gallon

That would have been nice, however, they only list the ISX engine for a 2006 Monaco Executive. Thanks anyway.  

1 hour ago, Paul J A said:

The Navigator, Executive and Signature share the same Roadmaster chassis. 

They all had the ISM as the standard Engine in 2006. 

That's what I was hoping for, as I found those part numbers for an 05 Navigator. Hope the year difference doesn't matter. Thanks to all.  

Thanks to all. I was hoping to come up with hoses before the switch to save time in the shop but looks like I might have to get them off first and match with new. 

It's more for "peace of mind". If I drain and replace the antifreeze, it would be an ideal time to replace the hoses and not have to wonder about them while I own the coach.   

I do not know the coolant history of our 2006 Executive. One of the radiator hoses looks suspicious, so out of caution, I would like to replace coolant and all of the hoses. I've located Gates part numbers used on a 2005 Navigator, but wonder if that configuration would be the same for our 06 Executive? I would like to have all in hand before I take it in for this service to save time. Thanks 

12 hours ago, Paul J A said:

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. Richard, that's great mileage. I suspect I would be close to that as well if I slowed to 55. I don't think it would have stayed in 6th gear unless in economy mode and then might downshift on slight inclines. The hardest part for me would be another day on the road with 2200 miles to travel. 🙂 I wonder where your extra weight comes from when I have a heavier engine and heavier Toad, but weigh 1000# less? 

FWIW, My son's Newell weighs 60,000#, plus he tows a 15,000# enclosed trailer. He smiles when a strong tail wind that gets him up to 6 mpg, otherwise he's 5. He could probably do better but runs 70 most of the time.

4 hours ago, Paul J A said:

Doug; You have a perfect Weight/Horsepower ratio Coach. The ISM or Detroit DD60 are 2 of the best.

A few simple changes to the intake and exhaust components will make a significant improvement to the performance and fuel consumption. 

The big muffler has been removed and replaced with a short straight through resonator.  I always run with the jake on low, so I need to be a bit careful slowing when coming into towns. It does bark a bit when climbing long grades. I haven't done anything to the intake, however, I will address that if and when a problem occurs with it. The EGR function has been eliminated with the Ugly Fix. Overall, the engine is responsive and seems to like to run.

We just completed our first long trip in our new to us and first Monaco.  2200 miles back to WI for the summer in 5 days. Our previous coach was a 2013 Allegro Bus with the 450 ISL Cummins engine. The difference in performance is significant even though the Monaco is 1000# heavier. Total weight with my Avalanche tagging along was 48,000#. I drove at 63 mph and averaged 7.2 mpg for the trip. I am very happy with that especially fighting a strong cross wind through NM, TX, and OK. At that speed, the 1450 rpm was just above peak torque. It didn't downshift on many of the hills where the 450 ISL would have. The boost would peak out @ 42 psi and just hang in there to the top. It did downshift on some of the steeper long hills in Missouri. The engine and transmission never got to 200 degrees even on the longest hill in 85 degree OAT. Of the seven motorhomes we have owned in the last 25 years, this is the first Monaco and first ISM. We couldn't be happier. Well,,,,,,,,, maybe the ISX or the Detroit engines might have been better, but I'll just make do with this one.  

Thanks. That's kind of what I thought happened with altitude. I sure am pleased with the power this ISM has compared to my 450 ISL in our previous Bus. It sure tamed the hills north of Truth or Consequences, NM today.

We're on the road till tonight. Just wondering if others see a change in boost with altitude changes.

We are on our way back to WI for the summer. I noticed something in the boost today for the first time. At 500 to1000' elevation, I get close to 40# of boost under full load. When we were at 4500' elevation, the boost maxed out at 32#. Is this normal for elevation changes? I also have the Ugly Fix on the EGR valve. The engine runs great and pulls hard. 

This is a bit late to the discussion, but I see about 32# of boost under full load. I thought that was pretty normal for the ISM 500, however, I'm   seeing lower numbers from others. I do have the Ugly Fix now, but it was similar before it was added. I'm very pleased with the performance and fuel mileage.  

Paul J A, both of my tube bulbs are good. Being florescent tubes, they should have a ballast to power them. Do you have an idea where it might be? The light is not something we would use very often, but I would like to have it working in the event we had a need.  Thanks

Thank you. That's what I was hoping for. I'll replace the tubes and I should be good.

This is what I have. It looks OEM. If it's aftermarket, they did a great installation, as the wiring is inside the wall. It's as though it was installed by Monaco when built, as there is no access from inside the coach. I am hoping the two florescent tubes are bad for an easy fix. Still no interior switch that I can find unless it's wired to the porch light next to the door. 

Thin Lite 162A Amber Fluorescent Porch Light (rvupgradestore.com)

2 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Should be on the front  passenger side  seat armrest group of switches.

There is a switch that controls the outside light near the door. Is that supposed to also control the light I'm referring to midway down the passenger side?

Midway down the passenger side of our Executive is a dual tube florescent light. What interior switch controls this light? It has a push button on/off switch on it that would require a ladder to operate. It does not respond to the button. Before I try replacing the tubes, I want to know what controls it.  Thanks 

I was thinking the same thing. My concern is that if the wind blowing the door against the strut caused the twist, is this a common occurrence with this strut modification to the door?    

The door stop scissors hinge on our entry door failed and I installed the gas shock on the outside to stop the door when at 90 degrees from the body. It has worked as intended. However, now the upper front upper corner of the door is sprung away from its closed position by 1/2". It must have happened one time when the wind caught the door and forced the newly installed cylinder to stop it due to being attached further back on the top of the door. My first thought is to attempt to spring the top back in hopes of returning it to its original seal. My concern is not cracking the window in the process. Being mounted with a rubber gasket should prevent that, but not sure if that is the case. Any advice from someone who has had a similar issue will be welcomed. Thanks   

I decided to remove just the top edge below the windshield. That is the only area that was pealing. It is about 1-2" wide and tapers to nothing at the sides. A Blow dryer and plastic chisel from Harbor Freight made for easy removal. The hardest part is getting the glue off, but patience and Goo Gone seems to do it. The rest of the front is fairly good yet.  It's not as nice as complete replacement, however, I won't have to look at the pealing film every time I walk by.   😎  There is some checking on the upper panel between what I have done and the top of the generator slide out. The film comes off fairly easy while holding a hair dryer in front of the chisel and slowly pealing it off. Plus, I found the glue comes off easier if heated and rubbing it in with my fingers. I can see doing that panel some afternoon when I get bored. It sure beats paying someone else $150 or more per hour to do it. 

5 hours ago, vito.a said:

You can use a steam gun with plastic razor blades and softener chemicals.  

Or, some have used a 3000psi pressure washer to cut and break up the film. Then use chemicals to remove the resin.

You can use the 3M adhesive remover, one of the citrus adhesive remover, or one of the other solvents available.  

If the paint is dull or damaged it's best to have the area repainted.  (Don't even bother removong the film).

Almost always the tops of the front and rear caps need painting anyway. 

Good luck!

If I'm going to have the area repainted, does the shop just sand the film off in their prep process? 

The film on the front of our 06 Executive is ok except the top panel above the top of the generator roll-out door. The edge next to the windshield has pealed back a bit and the paint is faded. I've watched a few videos on removing the film but want to know what people in the real world have done to remove the film. Did Monaco use 3-M or Diamond Shield, as I understand each has a different removal process?  As I mentioned, I only have to do the top 12" under the windshield, as the rest still looks good.