Venturer

This is a bit late to the discussion, but I see about 32# of boost under full load. I thought that was pretty normal for the ISM 500, however, I'm seeing lower numbers from others. I do have the Ugly Fix now, but it was similar before it was added. I'm very pleased with the performance and fuel mileage.

Paul J A, both of my tube bulbs are good. Being florescent tubes, they should have a ballast to power them. Do you have an idea where it might be? The light is not something we would use very often, but I would like to have it working in the event we had a need. Thanks

Thank you. That's what I was hoping for. I'll replace the tubes and I should be good.

This is what I have. It looks OEM. If it's aftermarket, they did a great installation, as the wiring is inside the wall. It's as though it was installed by Monaco when built, as there is no access from inside the coach. I am hoping the two florescent tubes are bad for an easy fix. Still no interior switch that I can find unless it's wired to the porch light next to the door. Thin Lite 162A Amber Fluorescent Porch Light (rvupgradestore.com)

There is a switch that controls the outside light near the door. Is that supposed to also control the light I'm referring to midway down the passenger side?

Midway down the passenger side of our Executive is a dual tube florescent light. What interior switch controls this light? It has a push button on/off switch on it that would require a ladder to operate. It does not respond to the button. Before I try replacing the tubes, I want to know what controls it. Thanks

I was thinking the same thing. My concern is that if the wind blowing the door against the strut caused the twist, is this a common occurrence with this strut modification to the door?

The door stop scissors hinge on our entry door failed and I installed the gas shock on the outside to stop the door when at 90 degrees from the body. It has worked as intended. However, now the upper front upper corner of the door is sprung away from its closed position by 1/2". It must have happened one time when the wind caught the door and forced the newly installed cylinder to stop it due to being attached further back on the top of the door. My first thought is to attempt to spring the top back in hopes of returning it to its original seal. My concern is not cracking the window in the process. Being mounted with a rubber gasket should prevent that, but not sure if that is the case. Any advice from someone who has had a similar issue will be welcomed. Thanks

I decided to remove just the top edge below the windshield. That is the only area that was pealing. It is about 1-2" wide and tapers to nothing at the sides. A Blow dryer and plastic chisel from Harbor Freight made for easy removal. The hardest part is getting the glue off, but patience and Goo Gone seems to do it. The rest of the front is fairly good yet. It's not as nice as complete replacement, however, I won't have to look at the pealing film every time I walk by. 😎 There is some checking on the upper panel between what I have done and the top of the generator slide out. The film comes off fairly easy while holding a hair dryer in front of the chisel and slowly pealing it off. Plus, I found the glue comes off easier if heated and rubbing it in with my fingers. I can see doing that panel some afternoon when I get bored. It sure beats paying someone else $150 or more per hour to do it.

If I'm going to have the area repainted, does the shop just sand the film off in their prep process?

The film on the front of our 06 Executive is ok except the top panel above the top of the generator roll-out door. The edge next to the windshield has pealed back a bit and the paint is faded. I've watched a few videos on removing the film but want to know what people in the real world have done to remove the film. Did Monaco use 3-M or Diamond Shield, as I understand each has a different removal process? As I mentioned, I only have to do the top 12" under the windshield, as the rest still looks good.

Looks like I have a Spicer E1462W axle. After searching, I found a 2018 post from someone with the same axle. His research shows a Stemco 383-0126 Hub Seal. Can anyone here with the same axle who may have replaced their hub seals, confirm the part number?? Edit: To complicate the issue, the 2006 Brochure says the 2006 Denalli has the 15,100# steer axle as does the tag next to the drivers seat. However, the build sheet says E1462W which is a 14,600# axle. Then, other data tells me that Spicer upped the rating to 15,100# for motorhome use. Guess nothing is simple in the Monaco world. 🙄

I'm about to have them repacked. I want to have the seals in hand before doing it. Did Monaco use the same hub for all years? Does anyone have the inner seal brand and part number? Thank you

On my 2006 Executive, I open the basement door next to the wet bay. After sliding the tray out the passenger side, I can crawl into the bay from the driver's side. There is a sliding door that opens into the wet bay behind the water valve bank. The water pump is mounted to the back side of the valve bank partition. The pressure tank was also there, which I just removed. FWIW, to check for a possible leak, I shut the pump off after it has pressurized the system. Then turn the pump back on a couple hours later. All I get is a slight 1/2 to 1 second run from the pump. I'm ok with that.

I found a valve that I can make work. The surprising thing I found is that the Monaco valve inlet was female garden hose thread, however, the fitting that screwed into it was 3/4" pipe thread that sealed against a garden hose washer. The output side was garden hose male that had a brass adaptor to 1/2" pipe thread. It all looked OEM, but I have to wonder why Monaco would have used a check valve intended for a residential garden hose.

While hooked up to a water source to check for a leak, I found one. The brass incoming check valve is leaking. I would like to replace it with the same model. It's the original two piece one with garden hose washers. The incoming fitting swivels and the output side reduces down to 1/2" pipe thread. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement?

A simple slide on cap after cutting the brass elbow off was an easy solution. Now there is considerably more room in the pump location. As for the syphoning of the water from the fresh tank, I was going to drill a relief hole in the elbow leading down to the exit hole. However, the elbow is brass and a difficult area to get a drill in. Wouldn't leaving the gravity fill cap loose break the vacuum of the syphoning effect? Then after a few gallons of water were used tighten the cap.

I tried adding air, however, the diaphragm was damaged. I was able to remove the tank without any problem outside of the awkward position. I lost less than a 1/2 cup of water, but the pressure tank was full. The line has a brass elbow that I could clamp a 5/8" nylon reenforced tube with a plug in it where a compression fitting for the tank was. Or, cut the water line off and slide a cap onto it. I'll see what Lowes might have for that tomorrow.

I was hoping that was the case. It's an awkward place to get into and I doubt I can talk my wife into doing it, so I'll psych myself up for it. Thanks

Moderator EDIT This was moved from a different topic and should be here. End of EDIT. I was intending to take the pressure tank out when I had the tank empty to replace the sending unit, but it slipped my mind. It's full now. Can I still remove the tank without losing more than what is in the failed pressure tank itself?

We have always used the onboard water and pump. When at a campground for several days, I use the CG water to refill my fresh tank as needed. So anytime we use water, the water pump has to run. When we leave for the day, I turn the pump off. I've read of people coming back to a flooded coach because of a burst pipe or fitting. It the pump starts up while sitting in the coach, water is going somewhere. If no faucet is open, you have a problem that you can catch before water damage. We also dump the grey and black tanks when needed and disconnect the hose when done. No sewer odor gets into the coach. Everyone has a system that works for them. Find what you feel is best for you. Happy Camping.

I replaced the fresh tank sending unit. I entered the empty tank raw data into the Alladin. Then filled the tank and entered the full raw data. It then registered 100%. After a couple hours, it registered 98%, then 2 hours later was at 96% and the next morning it registered 93%. The actual tank level remained full. I'll monitor it today and reset the raw data to read 100% before night. Is this a normal setup for a new sensor or is there an issue with the Alladin system itself? The Black and Grey tanks seem to register correctly.

Other than the smoother intake and exhaust pipes, Mine should be similar. I've also added the Ugly Fix. I can tell the engine is more responsive and the boost stays at 46 when under load. My only concern is not knowing the EGT on a long pull. To counter that concern, I intend to keep the RPMs near 2000 when conditions warrant it. I might install a Pyrometer in the future just to be certain. The ISM sure has more pull than the 450 ISL of my former Bus but gets about the same economy overall and no more DEF. 😎

What fuel economy did you get prior to your mods?

I find it hard to believe the overflow tube could syphon out half of the fresh water without collapsing the tank. I'm going to drill a small hole at the top elbow of the overflow tube to break the possible suction. I would think leaving the gravity fill cap loose would also allow air into the tank and stop the siphon effect. After I replace the fresh tank sending unit, I'll refill and determine if I still have a leak or if the loss was caused by the overflow.