Venturer

If I'm going to have the area repainted, does the shop just sand the film off in their prep process?

The film on the front of our 06 Executive is ok except the top panel above the top of the generator roll-out door. The edge next to the windshield has pealed back a bit and the paint is faded. I've watched a few videos on removing the film but want to know what people in the real world have done to remove the film. Did Monaco use 3-M or Diamond Shield, as I understand each has a different removal process? As I mentioned, I only have to do the top 12" under the windshield, as the rest still looks good.

Looks like I have a Spicer E1462W axle. After searching, I found a 2018 post from someone with the same axle. His research shows a Stemco 383-0126 Hub Seal. Can anyone here with the same axle who may have replaced their hub seals, confirm the part number?? Edit: To complicate the issue, the 2006 Brochure says the 2006 Denalli has the 15,100# steer axle as does the tag next to the drivers seat. However, the build sheet says E1462W which is a 14,600# axle. Then, other data tells me that Spicer upped the rating to 15,100# for motorhome use. Guess nothing is simple in the Monaco world. 🙄

I'm about to have them repacked. I want to have the seals in hand before doing it. Did Monaco use the same hub for all years? Does anyone have the inner seal brand and part number? Thank you

On my 2006 Executive, I open the basement door next to the wet bay. After sliding the tray out the passenger side, I can crawl into the bay from the driver's side. There is a sliding door that opens into the wet bay behind the water valve bank. The water pump is mounted to the back side of the valve bank partition. The pressure tank was also there, which I just removed. FWIW, to check for a possible leak, I shut the pump off after it has pressurized the system. Then turn the pump back on a couple hours later. All I get is a slight 1/2 to 1 second run from the pump. I'm ok with that.

I found a valve that I can make work. The surprising thing I found is that the Monaco valve inlet was female garden hose thread, however, the fitting that screwed into it was 3/4" pipe thread that sealed against a garden hose washer. The output side was garden hose male that had a brass adaptor to 1/2" pipe thread. It all looked OEM, but I have to wonder why Monaco would have used a check valve intended for a residential garden hose.

While hooked up to a water source to check for a leak, I found one. The brass incoming check valve is leaking. I would like to replace it with the same model. It's the original two piece one with garden hose washers. The incoming fitting swivels and the output side reduces down to 1/2" pipe thread. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement?

A simple slide on cap after cutting the brass elbow off was an easy solution. Now there is considerably more room in the pump location. As for the syphoning of the water from the fresh tank, I was going to drill a relief hole in the elbow leading down to the exit hole. However, the elbow is brass and a difficult area to get a drill in. Wouldn't leaving the gravity fill cap loose break the vacuum of the syphoning effect? Then after a few gallons of water were used tighten the cap.

I tried adding air, however, the diaphragm was damaged. I was able to remove the tank without any problem outside of the awkward position. I lost less than a 1/2 cup of water, but the pressure tank was full. The line has a brass elbow that I could clamp a 5/8" nylon reenforced tube with a plug in it where a compression fitting for the tank was. Or, cut the water line off and slide a cap onto it. I'll see what Lowes might have for that tomorrow.

I was hoping that was the case. It's an awkward place to get into and I doubt I can talk my wife into doing it, so I'll psych myself up for it. Thanks

Moderator EDIT This was moved from a different topic and should be here. End of EDIT. I was intending to take the pressure tank out when I had the tank empty to replace the sending unit, but it slipped my mind. It's full now. Can I still remove the tank without losing more than what is in the failed pressure tank itself?

We have always used the onboard water and pump. When at a campground for several days, I use the CG water to refill my fresh tank as needed. So anytime we use water, the water pump has to run. When we leave for the day, I turn the pump off. I've read of people coming back to a flooded coach because of a burst pipe or fitting. It the pump starts up while sitting in the coach, water is going somewhere. If no faucet is open, you have a problem that you can catch before water damage. We also dump the grey and black tanks when needed and disconnect the hose when done. No sewer odor gets into the coach. Everyone has a system that works for them. Find what you feel is best for you. Happy Camping.

I replaced the fresh tank sending unit. I entered the empty tank raw data into the Alladin. Then filled the tank and entered the full raw data. It then registered 100%. After a couple hours, it registered 98%, then 2 hours later was at 96% and the next morning it registered 93%. The actual tank level remained full. I'll monitor it today and reset the raw data to read 100% before night. Is this a normal setup for a new sensor or is there an issue with the Alladin system itself? The Black and Grey tanks seem to register correctly.

Other than the smoother intake and exhaust pipes, Mine should be similar. I've also added the Ugly Fix. I can tell the engine is more responsive and the boost stays at 46 when under load. My only concern is not knowing the EGT on a long pull. To counter that concern, I intend to keep the RPMs near 2000 when conditions warrant it. I might install a Pyrometer in the future just to be certain. The ISM sure has more pull than the 450 ISL of my former Bus but gets about the same economy overall and no more DEF. 😎

What fuel economy did you get prior to your mods?

I find it hard to believe the overflow tube could syphon out half of the fresh water without collapsing the tank. I'm going to drill a small hole at the top elbow of the overflow tube to break the possible suction. I would think leaving the gravity fill cap loose would also allow air into the tank and stop the siphon effect. After I replace the fresh tank sending unit, I'll refill and determine if I still have a leak or if the loss was caused by the overflow.

Instead of a large muffler, my Exec has what looks like a resonator. The pipe going in is 5" in diameter. The body is about 8 -9" in diameter and approximately 20" long. It all looks OEM, but wonder if it's just a good aftermarket replacement. The exhaust tone is louder at idle, although it's not noticeable in the cab at highway speeds. However it sounds like a semi when using the Jake brake. I would not be able to use the Jake in residential areas. Is this the standard setup for the 06 500 ISM in the Executive or has a former owner modified it??

It's not a real big deal, as I can keep track of fuel used with the miles driven. The gauge and the freshwater level sensor replacement is all that's left to have everything working as designed. (not including the obsolete satellite dish which we don't uses anyway)

After 240 miles of driving on a full tank, the gauge is still close to the full mark. I want to adjust the fuel Centroid to have a more accurate reading of the fuel remaining. I have the adjustment procedure; however, I can't locate it. I would have thought it would be on the top of the fuel tank but can't see it. I can see across the top of the tank from both sides, however, I cannot see the Centroid. It wouldn't matter if I could see it, as there is no room to access it. Where is it?

Just got to our destination. The ABS light went off by the time I had driven a block and has stayed off. Guess it just gets lonesome for attention. 🙂

No, I haven't. Where is it?

That's what I was thinking. I can shut the audio alarm off by pushing the up & down buttons together on the speedometer, so Monaco must have thought of this problem too.

The ABS light and alarm have come on at times. After driving for a few minutes, I stop and turn the engine off. When I start up and drive, the light and alarm are on for a few seconds before going off. Today, it comes back on when started. I'm leaving tomorrow for a short trip and do not have the time or shop to diagnose the problem. It might go back to normal after a few miles, but maybe not. If not, I can shut the audio alarm off. Am I correct is assuming the coach will drive normal and not be affected till I can get it corrected?

It seems my best option is to stick with grease packed bearings. The oil bath is much simpler to service, however, it isn't a viable option with the type of wheel/hubcap combo on the Executive because of the difficulty involved with monitoring the oil level. Cleaning and repacking the bearings now will carry me a minimum of 5 years. Might be done motor homing by then. Thanks for the comments.