Venturer

What Ben said. It's a rocker switch. Push the top and hold it. Then push the bottom for start. You should always do it when the OAT under 40 degrees. Saves the starter and quicker starts. 

My guess is that it is preheating the intake air like our Tiffin did for cold starts before it engages the starter. You could try preheating manually for 10 seconds to see if it makes a difference. 

Can anyone confirm if they went to a wider wheel for the 315 tire?

I would consider it, however, the current tires are just 2 years old with less the 2,000 miles on them. I suspect the 315's would need a wider wheel than what is on it now with the 295's. I was a little surprised it only has a 15,200# axle rating. Haven't had it to a scale yet, but I'm sure the coach is heavier than our 43' Allegro Bus was and it had the 15,680# front axle. 

I think we have found the problem. When we swapped the front tires, it pulls to the left instead of the right. Going to a tire shop today to dismount the LF and rear tag to switch tire positions. Hopefully that will cure the steering.

Good news so far. None of the control arm bushings are bad. Two bushings were to the side of their mount position but centered on the bolt. He's going to swap the front tires to see if corrects the pull to the right. If not, I'll have him double check for cracks. If nothing is found, I'm guessing a four-wheel alignment is next.  I was under it for a bit and it looked pretty clean for a 17-year-old coach with 70,000 miles. 

Thank you. I will have him check closely for cracks. I doubt the Freightliner alignment shop checked for them or they would have said something if they had seen any.

I  took the coach up to Freightliner in Kingman for an alignment today. After an inspection, the tech came out and said the lower control arm bushings for the drive and tag axle were bad. That was causing the pull to the right. They had no idea where to get bushings for a coach this old.  I find that hard to believe. I talked to my local mechanic to see if he would replace them. He wants to inspect it, as I'm the 4th person to get that report from Freightliner. When he checked the first three, the bushings were still ok, but worn a bit. He's checking mine tomorrow to verify. In the event, they need replacing, where can I go to get bushings or possibly rebuilt control arms for our 2006 Executive?    

That's what I have done a couple times. Will see if it holds. If not, I will strap it closed till I can get it diagnosed. With the gen all the way out I can see four solenoids and the hoses. Everything is dry. It moves smooth with no jerking, so I suspect the oil level is fine. I don't have the ramps here to run it up and I don't feel safe under it without.  

The generator on my 2006 Monaco has decided to slowly roll out while parked on level ground. It will power back in tight but will roll out 6-8" overnight. It used to creep out an inch after a couple days. Ideas???? 

That's the way I thought it should work, however, sometimes it would not shut off. When plugged into the diagnostic at the rear, we could watch the low voltage (9.5v) when cranking trip the ABS fault. When reset and using the battery boost, the voltage did not drop below 11.4 and no fault was tripped.  Might just be coincidental, but time will tall as I've replaced the questionable battery cables. 

On our new to us 06 coach, the ABS light would occasionally come on at startup. It would usually stay on till it was shut down. Then the next startup, it might be off. We checked the voltage drop at startup and noticed it dropped down to 9.5 volts till the engine started. That seemed to trigger the ABS light. When I held the battery boost button in, the voltage only dropped to 11.5 volts. I'm replacing two battery cables that had the bolt on ends with new cables with crimped ends. Hopefully, that will correct the problem.    

After I replaced the Michelins with Toyo M144's several years ago, my wife remarked that she thought they rode smoother. I kept accurate fuel mileage records and also noticed a consistent .3-.4 mpg increase. They had 35,000 miles when we sold the coach and they still looked near new. The best part was that I saved $2500 on the eight Toyo vs Michelin tires and sold the takeoffs to a trucker. Fortunately, our new 06 Executive came with new M144's.  

55 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I have two one foot sections of PT 4x4 which I place between the rails and the frame body after it has been raised up on the air bags. I release the air from the bags which secures the 4x4 in place. That allows me to easily crawl under the coach and work on various locations.

That is what I need. So 12" is the correct length?

Thanks. I've built the ramps in the past, but they're gone. The square tube support sounds like the answer to what I want. 

2 hours ago, MHRookie said:

You don’t need to support between the chassis & house frame to change tires.  As mentioned, the use of 2 jacks is most important to lift coach equally on both sides under the axle.

I realize that, which is what I would do. However, I like to use a safety backup for the "just in case" event a jack would fail. I don't want the body coming down on myself or a service man. Maybe it's not needed, but it only takes one time to ruin one's day, or worse.

MODERATOR EDIT.

@Venturer

   Please do NOT start a new topic and reference or comment or correct a previous topic’s post.  Use the Original Topic for corrections.  We have to search and merge and that is difficult….as the comment was made over a week ago.

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sWhen the Aqua Hot runs, the front and rear fans come on when the thermostat calls for heat in those zones. The Kitchen has a 3 speed fan and the bathroom has an on/off switch. Is there supposed to be more than one fan speed in the front, back and Bath?  I wasn't clear from my previous post as to speed controls for the front and rear zones. 

Thanks, I'll do some searching. After several coaches, this is my first one without jacks and my first Roadmaster chassis.  

Then you rely on the air suspension to keep the body up? There must be body support places to support it for changing air bags. 

Thanks. It was the chassis to frame area to block that I was wondering about. I won't be doing any changing, however, I want to know where in the event it's needed. I'd like to know it's being done correctly and safely.    

Where are the jacking/lift points on the Roadmaster chassis with air leveling? I assume the axles, but does one rely on the air bags to remain inflated to change a tire? 

Without turning the key on, does the peddle go to the floor or engage the brakes? If it engages, the Brake Buddy should work. The toad brake supplier will have a procedure if it's doable. 

That's what I will do. I have to wonder if Monaco had a certain controller in mind.?  DId they offer one at some time as an option? 

Is there by chance a controller that will just plug into that harness? I guess that would be too easy. I've seen adaptor harnesses, but none to fit the Monaco harness.   🙂

My '13 Tiffin had a brake control wire running from the dash to the 7 pin receptacle at the hitch. I just had to wire a controller to it at the dash. Does the 2006 Monaco Executive have that same wire? If so, where would it be?