dereeves

I see this is an old topic...but after spending 2 hours changing the passenger side headlight unit out...i can think of about a thousand ways Monaco could have made that a little easier...they have rigging sheet metal to hold the rigging in place. No access to some of the 4 main screws holding the assembly in, if you raise the headlight all the way up with the adjustment screw, you can tighten the inside bottom screw. Took me a few mins to figure that one out. Now to complicate things...the drivers side has about 10 miles of wiring all hanging right in the back of the unit, should add some more pleasure to swapping that one out...i need a beer.

That's the kind of pump i would want. Kind of like a well pump for your house on well water, keeps up with the demand. What make and model is it? Thanks

Well it looks good.

I don't think it matters either way. Most installs will follow the main shape of the room, which in our case is a rectangle so they tend to go with the length. What is the carpet by the couch?

Yeah the transition...couldn't think of the name of it. Yeah i like that color, it blends well with everything. Looking at the stairs, i can see how it will be a little work. I have already bought the lights for that that will install flush into whatever flooring i use as long as it is 1/4" thick. I noticed your dinette is in the slide? Totally opposite of my 2000 Diplo. The kitchen and couch is in my slide. How long ago did you redo the floor? If within the last couple of years, do you by chance have the stock numbers from Home Depot? Looking at your pics...i wonder if i have floor vents under the flooring. Only exposed floor vents i have is one in bedroom at the doorway, one under the passenger side of dash facing into the coach and one blowing out of a side vent at the floor under the fridge. That vent blows right into the side of the dinette table wall cabinet. I guess i will find out when i take the old flooring out.

I like that color. How does the piece connecting it to the tile holding up? This has some ugly brass or gold colored trim on the floor now and on the molding for the entry stair case. That alone makes me want to change the flooring.

I will replace some of the flooring in this Diplomat as i do not like what is in it now. The problem is, i stink at anything home decorating ideas and guessing i stink equally as bad at rv ideas as well. Is there a post on flooring where lots of people had posted pics of the flooring they put in? Don't need the particulars of installation or floor type, just need some ideas of what color tones work and/or designs. If you have redone your floor and have a second, please post a snapshot of the end product. Thanks

To cut a slot in the stub would mean a slot in the fiberglass. If there was enough exposed to do this them i could use a pipe wrench to unscrew it.

These are screws.

Yeah if i could do that i would. These are the lower mount for the door awning, so i think they need to be where they are now. I ordered some marine ex epoxy putty from West Marine, so when it comes i will drill below the current holes and tap them down to that hole and hopefully out, then repair the holes with the putty and drill new holes. On the side marker light i was talking about, i thought that was a metal panel which would have explained the rusted in issue, but best i could tell it was just a fiberglass panel as i didn't see anything metal on the inside of it. I think a lot of the problem is the shaft of the screws rusted to near through and any torque breaks it. Now i wish i had a master list of screw size for all the exterior screws and get them, then go all around and replace them all with new ones.

One thing i was thinking was, drill right next to each screw and tap the old one into the new hole, then clean it up and epoxy seal both holes and re drill for new screws. I haven't had much experience with fiberglass like these panels so i don't know what works and what doesn't.

So yesterday i was putting the over door awning back up and the left side was hard to get loose. While getting it loose the screw broke which holds the lower arm to the body. The bottom screw was already missing. Anyways, when i was changing the clearance lights out, the marker light above the drivers side rear wheels screws both broke. Those i was able to get a small pipe wrench on the inside part of the screw and turn it out enough to get it with the wrench on the outside. These two screws for the door cover i cannot get to the inside. How do you guys get these out? When the marker light screw broke, i tried drilling it, using broken screw extractors which neither worked. I was simply amazed at how hard the screws in the fiberglass held. In anycase, anyone have any super secret ideas on how to get these out? Thanks in advance.

Yeah i couldn't remember which side the spring tube came out of so when i was on the phone with the lady at Carefree, i could see either side has a point to do the windings for the tension, just like you said. Could go either side as long as you get the right direction of coiling on the spring.

So finally got through to the Carefree people...half of their website doesn't work and the other half was a total waste of time...the difference between the two versions of Omega from what i gathered from the lady is the Omega has a spring on the right side, has a valance and the Omega II has the spring on the left side with no valance and the fabric cover on the tube end, where as the Omega has the alumnaguard attached to the coach and covers the fabric when it is retracted. There is a spot on the front arm where a label is, but it is blank now. When i took the tube off, the spring came out in 2 pieces. The tube end of it that sticks into the arm has a printed number on it which meant nothing to Carefree, looks like a part number to me, but isn't. So another $140 bucks, wait time just to see what other parts i will need. hahahhahaha such is the story of my life, hurry up and wait. The Air Force trained me well in hurry up and wait...

That's what the Omega I looks like as well. I believe the difference is the II has the cover at the end versus the aluminaguard at the coach end.

I will look...we did kind of look when measuring but i don't recall seeing one, but i wasn't looking for one so i will do that. Thanks.

Anyone know how to tell the difference between the Carefree Omega and Omega II awning? I have looked in the owners box of stuff and it only has instructions on the use of the cover. I have looked online but have found nothing stating as to the differences between the two models. I need to replace the awning fabric as it has torn at the alumniguard cover before i took ownership of the motorhome. While we were measuring for new one i noticed the tension springs don't look too awfully healthy, rust etc. That is the only difference i can find between the two models...as one spring rotates clockwise and the other model counterclockwise. Thanks in advance! Iam thinking the Omega has the aluminagaurd and the Omega II has the end case cover?

In my owners manual box thing, there is a note from Monaco on something, i don't recall now, that stated customer ordered the entire lower portion to be white with no decals or anything, from the side belt molding on down. So everything is white all the way around except for the near center decal which comes to a point about 2 inches on the main storage door on both sides. Right across the painted belt molding top piece and everything. The decal is reddish color and i have no idea how faded. Cracks me up that they did that. When i repaint the lower portion just something else to have to grind out. I like that color scheme on your coach. Looks sharp!

The stairs right inside the door...is that well insulated or is it just a piece of metal? There isn't any stair lights and i want to put some in but i don't want to cut 1.5" holes if it is just a piece of metal. I don't even want to drill an exploratory hole to see. If it is just the one piece, i am thinking a 1/4" sheet of so something to cut to fit the inside and then cut holes in that and affix that to the walls of the stairs. How have any of you handled this? Thanks I think i figured it out...there is already something on those walls, matching ugly flooring so i will replace it with whatever i decide to do the floor with. Couldn't figure out how to delete this post, sorry.

The seal i was wanting the name of is in the yellow box. The red circle is a crack i need to fix as well. I guessing it is a stress crack? There are a couple along the 4 corners of the coach. The horizontel seal right below the yellow box is the belt molding, but it is smaller and different design then the verticle. The horizontal looks like it is a rubber seal pressure fitting into a rail i am guessing, the other one covers the entire thing and is sealed with sealant.

I thought that was the name of the side seals between the storage doors and side panels? These are 2 different seems and i don't want to take one off to an idea until i have replacements in hand. Like a gasket on an engine...always fine until you replace something that you have to replace it, then it usually leaks for some reason or another. The caps seals are slightly larger too. The part above the drivers side window to the slide-out needs replaced. I am guess i am at the point of this vehicles age where i could either cake another coating of sealant on top of how many other layers, or scrape it all off and replace it properly. It isn't a tape of any kind. It seems to be of same material as the side moldings/seal which i think is called the belt molding.

What is the seam cover that connects the front and back caps to the roof and sides called? Thanks!

Ok, i determined the comm cable from front unit to rear unit was defective somewhere in the ceiling. I ran a new phone line with the RJ11 plugs installed as per Dometic wiring and it worked, well kind of. It immediately showed up the zones in the thermostat and when i switched that zone to cool, he made a nasty noise while it was pumping freon out into the coach and no fan. So i shut it off and switched it to just fan and nothing. So apparently it is dead. Now looking at replacement units, i realize i will have to buy the unit itself and the control box for it and adapt it into the Duo-Therm 4 button thermostat. I see a few different price points for these 15k BTU units ranging from $600 to $1700 each. One brand i have never heard of, Advent. Who is this company made or owned by and has anyone ever installed one that can comment on its quality? Thanks

Iam guessing the rear AC control box or the unit itself or both is dead. After reviewing the schematics in the files you guys recommended downloading, i switch the dip pins to make the front AC Zone 2. It still worked as Zone 2 on the thermostat, which is the first time i have seen anything "Zone" on my thermostat. The back on still no DC and nothing. The RJ11 cables are fine, i checked continuity with the one going to the back AC unit with a continuity tester and a digital line tester. The line tester actually has the cable plug into it and the remote end also plugs in to the other end of the cable. Oh that doesn't check the plugs on the boxes though, i will clean those with alcohol and swabs and see what happens. In the event i do need to look at replacing stuff, how do i check the unit itself besides the continuity motor check, which i know how to do? Is there anyway to directly bypass the thermostat just to see if the unit even works?

Forgive me if this has been discussed before, which it probably has, i did a search for it and nothing came up. In this 2000 Diplomat, the front AC unit works as intended. It had a blown fuse in the control box but works after replacing that. The rear AC hasn't started up in any thermostat setting, not even just fan. It has 120v in the control box, but there doesn't seem to be 12v to that small fuse. Breaker panel shows it has its own breaker, which is functioning, and the fuse panel next to it has nothing listed as anything to do with the AC's, only a fuse for "Furnace", which is good to go. What i would like to find is where the rear AC gets its DC voltage from, i guess for the the front AC as well. They are Dometic units, the front has heat pump or strip i do not know but it blows out heat when on thermostat heat pump setting. The thermostat is a 4 button Duo-Therm and is functioning i believe as it should be. There is never a selection for individual zones that i have found and the rear AC dip switch setting is i believe set to like a slave status (end pin up rest down).