Older Norco Fridge Issues

[sg47619]

1 hour ago, Jerry G said:

Just happened to us. Found a 5 amp fuse on the control board blown.  Appears a fan has bound up and is blowing it.

Took the cover off the control board outside, our fuse is on lower right side. If it blows again, find the wire going up to power the fans and disconnect it, replaced fuse again and it's running while we wait for delivery.

 

1 minute ago, sg47619 said:

I have power to the plug-in behind the fridge, I checked all the fuse there good  I have 12 V + to green black box that has a small red light on it but no 12V coming out of it   

 

[CAT Stephen]

On 2/3/2023 at 7:30 PM, Dick Roberts said:

The lp burner fires up but the fridge doesn't get cold. Inverter doesn't work so I'm limited to gas. How long should it take to start getting cold?

Or is it time to replace it?

Thanks

Hello Dick,

 

The good news is that you have not yet received an error from your Norcold brow (i.e. your Norcold display).  If your cooling unit has failed, you will receive an error message on the brow and / or you will have already observed a yellow substance near the burner area along with the sent of ammonia.  As others have indicated, the next step is to determine if your absorption unit is starting to cool after ~12 hours.  The temperature differential will be most pronounced in the left hand freezer compartment.

 

Coming to any conclusions before this initial cooling test is inconclusive (i.e. not accurate).

[Georgia Mike]

If your Norcold box and doors are in good shape and your cooling unit is bad I would consider the 12 volt dual compressor from JC refrigeration. I installed one last summer and it’s the best upgrade I’ve done to our motorhome. It works just like a residential and no modifications. It cools down In a few hours and stays 0 in the freezer and 36 in fridge no mater what the outside temp is.  
https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-hvac-12v-dc-replacement-unit/

[VinceB]

6 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

If your Norcold box and doors are in good shape and your cooling unit is bad I would consider the 12 volt dual compressor from JC refrigeration. I installed one last summer and it’s the best upgrade I’ve done to our motorhome. It works just like a residential and no modifications. It cools down In a few hours and stays 0 in the freezer and 36 in fridge no mater what the outside temp is.  
https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-hvac-12v-dc-replacement-unit/

 

Does the JC upgrade use the Norcold controls?  If so, what number do you run it on to get 36° in the refrigerator section?  I ask this becuase we like to run it colder than that.

Also, what kind of battery consumption do you experience at 36°?

[CAT Stephen]

1 hour ago, VinceB said:

 

Does the JC upgrade use the Norcold controls?  If so, what number do you run it on to get 36° in the refrigerator section?  I ask this becuase we like to run it colder than that.

Also, what kind of battery consumption do you experience at 36°?

Vince,

 

Yes, the JC upgrade uses the Norcold controls.  The number you set on the Norcold brow depends upon the outside temperature.   Also, the battery consumption varies with the outside temperature and the inside temperature of your coach.

[Georgia Mike]

As Stephen said yes you use the Norcold controls on the door. I have mine on 3 or 4 I believe 9 being the highest setting as you know I’m sure so it can go much lower. When I had the previous gas coils it was always at 9 and never colder then 20 in the freezer. It says it uses about 11 amps dc from the batteries but that’s both compressors running. When it gets to temperature it only uses each compressor as needed one for the freezer and one for the fridge part. I noticed once it gets to temperature the freezer compressor runs very little but the fridge compressor runs more often mainly because we open that door more often. All in all it’s been a great upgrade as I said.