Monaco Dynasty - Removing Front Overhead Cabinets

[DBRV.0]

I have removed the center overhead TV cabinet on my '09 Monaco Dynasty.  On the passenger's corner, are now 3 cabinets.  Referencing my picture, the left is an empty box, the center is for coach electronic gauges, and the right is for AV.  I would like to remove the left and center pieces.

I am wits' end, in trying to figure out how they are attached. 

Left cabinet/box: I removed two screws on the back (from the rear) of the box (photo note #4) where it is attached to the dash ceiling.  There are no attachment points between the front edge of the cabinet and ceiling (I tested with a putty knife).  There are no attachments on the back side (it is open air).  There are no attachments on the box top rear (towards windshield) where I can run my hand and visually inspect.  That box appears to run to intersect the coach wall above the entrance door.  I can shake it hard and it only has a hint of movement.

Center cabinet/box: I removed three screws that connect the walls of left box and center box (photo note #1).  My putty knife has found only one front attachment point (photo note #2), but there is no visible screw.  Interior or exterior, I find no other points of attachment.

Right cabinet/box: I have observed two screws that anchor the rightmost vertical interior rear edge of the box to the coach wall (photo note #3).  I have not removed them, because there appears to be other unseen anchor points to be determined; besides, this box can remain in place if possible.

Anyone with knowledge or experience or ideas?

- Jeff

p.s.  With great interest, I read "Front Cabinets shook loose", by @Jobert.  What concerned me was a statement by @RNMCBR that cabinets may have been installed before the roof. If so, what a maintenance nightmare!

 

[Chargerman]

They are screwed in place with screws coming through the ceiling from the top. They were installed as part of the roof build and then the assembly was dropped in place. I had to remove my left side cabinets early last year to get a new fridge in through the window. I forget how I was able to locate the screws coming through from the top but once I did I used a Dremel to cut around each screw to release the cabinets. You can see three screws coming through the ceiling in this picture 

Edited January 3 by Chargerman

[DBRV.0]

3 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

They are screwed in place with screws coming through the ceiling from the top. They were installed as part of the roof build and then the assembly was dropped in place. 

Any thoughts on how to address that?  With that, although not efficient, it seems that the path of least resistance for cabinet modifications and re-wiring would be in-situ.

[Chargerman]

I explained how I addressed it in my post. Also, see the picture 

[DBRV.0]

21 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

I forget how I was able to locate the screws coming through from the top but once I did I used a Dremel to cut around each screw to release the cabinets.

I would guess that a magnet and/or putty knife would find them.  Interesting approach.  Then how did you re-attach?  It is into wood or metal?

25 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

 I had to remove my left side cabinets early last year to get a new fridge in through the window.

The cabinets were easier than removing the driver's seat?  On mine, the window top is slightly above the bottom of the cabinets.

[Chargerman]

I drilled up from inside the cabinet right next to where the old screw is into the metal and used sheet metal screws. I think I remember that I was able to feel the very tip of the old screw just barely coming through the cabinet wood to locate the old screw. The cabinets are screwed very tight to the ceiling so I don’t think you will have any luck with a putty knife without damaging the ceiling

Edited January 3 by Chargerman

[DBRV.0]

34 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

The cabinets are screwed very tight to the ceiling so I don’t think you will have any luck with a putty knife without damaging the ceiling

Yes, they are tight and my putty knives seem to work well.  I have some that are a mm or two in thickness and are very rigid - almost like a chisel. In contrast, the ones I use here are very thin metal and springy/flexible/bendable.  I insert them flush with the vinyl, so as not to catch.  Years ago when doing car body work, they were my go-to to spread bondo.

[Chargerman]

I meant to ask why you are wanting to remove those two cabinets?

[DBRV.0]

4 hours ago, Chargerman said:

I meant to ask why you are wanting to remove those two cabinets?

Good question; I thought about writing earlier, but figured it didn't matter.  I have now conceded that removal is not as simple as removing the TV cabinet, so they are going to stay in place and I will work with them as-is.  Here were/are some of the planned actions.

1) After removing the TV cabinet, I found insulation behind the cabinets lacking, so wanted to ensure I could improve the conditions as much as possible.

2) I am replacing the TV.  The new one can use HDMI, Ethernet, OTA coax.  I need to run all of those from the AV box to the TV.

3) I will be incorporating an ethernet switch, an LTE Home Internet box, Apple TV box, HDMI switcher, ethernet NAS, maybe a mini PC, other small ethernet devices, UPS unit, and would like to organize them effectively without making a wiring mess by shoving or stacking them on each other in the AV box.

4) To help work item (3), I was hoping to create a new storage area behind the cabinet in the corner to the right side of the TV.  I would have removed the cabinet and added a door on the back to access devices on a shelf or whatever, or for wiring changes.  Items selected for placement there between the cabinet and windshield would need to be insensitive to temperature swings.

At this point I am trying to identify, then pull out all of the DirecTV components and wiring, which I will never use.

- Jeff

[edit: I also want to provide 12V "ports" so I can eliminate at least a few of those AC wall-wart transformers.  I will wire directly from a port to the electronic device if it uses 12V]

Edited January 4 by DBRV.0

[DBRV.0]

What's a "mini PC" you ask?  This is my current unit; a powerful and fast desktop computer.  This has 32GB RAM and 1TB SSD inside.  Runs on 12V.  I've been considering using the new front 4k TV as my monitor, at least part-time.