OhReally

Yes, if lift pump is leaking, your mechanical pump will lose it's prime through the leaking lift pump. 

I had similar problem with leaking lift pump a couple years back and tightened bolts fixed it. Fwiw I have heard that low sulfur fuel will attack some gaskets so your (our) bolt tightening fix may only be temporary.

-Jamie 

I can help with your first question. The lift pump relies on sucking fuel from the fuel tank to the pump. After it runs for a short time it will quit and your mechanical fuel pump on the engine takes over. Because of the location of either pump they need a hose from the tank without leaks. If there are any leaks between the lift pump and the tank you will get something like you describe.

The easiest way to find the leak is to apply air pressure to the line, either at the intake to the lift pump or the outlet from the tank, and then inspect the rest of the line for leaks. Not an easy task. Good luck.

-Jamie 

And don't forget your cellphone's camera to see around, under and behind things! As an RV tech it is one of my most used tools.

Probably rusty. Try soaking with wd40 or PB blaster. Lock should pop out to release. 

Cheers, Jamie.

Eleanor, could it be that the awning sensor was detecting motion inside the RV? If you have the same small box like John suggests it likely works off of a device that detects motion (accelerometer). Wind or motion, like a washing machine or people walking inside with no jacks down, would shake the awning and in turn, the sensor and cause the awning to roll up. Carefree should have a calibration procedure on-line or you might need a new (less sensitive) sensor. 

Cheers,

-Jamie 

I agree with David and Richard. I have also seen the heavy duty 3M plastic Velcro used to hold it in place. Be persistent with it but be careful not to apply too much pull and break it. Sometimes you can also get a long something behind it to pry it from the middle and not just pry from the upper and/or lower ends. Good luck.

-Jamie

Does sound like the regulator. Very little quality control in regulator manufacturing and they fail often.

If it were something burning off the burner you would have seen a flame color change but not a foot high flare like you describe. If your front burner is the first in the gas line that might also indicate why it's the only one to flare.

-Jamie 

Could it be that your engine is gulping water through the intake? My HR has a sump inside the intake grill that needs to fill up 1 to 2 inches of water before any enters the air intake. If the drain line is closed off or not draining adequately the engine would get gulps of water. 

Good luck!

-Jamie 

This was a remedy that Cummins initiated to fix an issue where the EMS was noting an incorrect low oil pressure. You have two oil pressure sending units. One is sending the 55 psi to the EMS whenever oil pressure is there and the other sending  unit sends the actual pressure to the gauge only.

I know, sounds rather Micky Mouse but that's how it was redesigned. If your engine is running and/or you see the 55 psi your EMS is satisfied.

-Jamie

Anand, you have something wrong if blinking stops when you apply brakes. Blinker side should continue blinking while braking and other side and 3rd brake light should go solid. 

If lights blink like above with Jake you obviously have a problem with wiring from your brake light switch. Since there are so many ways to wire your brakes and turn signals I can't offer good advice on how to troubleshoot your issue so I suggest you get a good tech.

If your slides are electric, a low voltage due to bad batteries will cause an increase in current, when you move the slide, which can cause the drive controller to stall. Make sure you have good batteries and run the engine, generator or shore power when moving slide to see if your problem continues or changes. If you see a positive change in the way the slide moves you probably need to check out your batteries, battery terminals, chassis grounds, etc.

Lee, I'm confused by your original post. Do you just need an arm or is motor defunct. 

I may have a used/good wiper arm for my 2003 HR Scepter. The new blades can always be made (with a small bit of inginuity) from many brands still sold.

My Scepter is a split windshield but that shouldn't matter if your motor and motor linkage is good. 

Get me some good pictures and measurements (don't think part numbers will help) (arm length, pics of arm connection to coach, etc.) and we can try to match things up.

-Jamie

I'm afraid we may have missed a few points on residential vs JC compressor.

1. The residential definitely is not made for an RV which resembles an earthquake rumbling down the road. Many people have experienced problems just due to continuous shaking, and I've heard of warranties have been denied.

2. Getting a residential fridge into a coach often requires removal of a window or windshield.

3. The compressor retrofit by JC is much more efficient at keeping a constant and desirable temperature in both the refrigerator and the freezer. Just think back on your ice cream that got thrown away due to ice crystals forming while in the absorption freezer. Problem resolved with a compressor unit, residential or compressor retrofit.

Just sayin...

Cliff, if you look around you will probably find several dozen of these unused connectors. They are there primarily for options. Don't let them worry you.

Always go by your coach weight and the tire manufacturer's pressure requirement. With respect to ride, the biggest difference between tire manufacturer's tires is the sidewall thickness and softness and his suggested pressure takes that into account to give you the smoothest and safety ride. Never use the max cold pressure listed on the side of the tire unless you enjoy the buckboard ride.

I installed the 12v compressor unit last year and am very happy with it. As you said, the 120v unit needs an inverter when you are not on shore power so that is a waste of energy. J C says the compressor is the only difference in the two units. I definitely suggest you go with JC's 12v unit.

Nyrngrz, you may still get the pump cycling if you have very poor city pressure or flow rate. When turned on, the pump is actuated by a pressure drop in the line so if it is cycling when you think it is turned off, you probably have a stuck pump controller or your switch is actually on.

Romeo84, I know this is not the exact information you were looking for but here is something I put together awhile back to answer a similar question. Let me know if you want additional information on this.

BIRD Wiring.pdf

This panel came out of my 2003 Holiday Rambler Scepter. I replaced the main instrument panel and this one did not match the new one.

Almost perfect condition. $50 and you pay the shipping.

Joe, these look like LED segments rather than the LCD version I talked about before. You have probably lost parts of the LED segments. You should be able to buy replacement segments online and solder in, or have someone solder in new ones. I don't have a known source but suggest you search Amazon for "led number segments". There are many available there that likely match yours.

Joe, I hope this helps.

Since the Norcold 1200 now has some age on it, it is probably a liquid crystal display (LCD). The LCD glass is typically connected to the display electronics by a flexible connection that looks like a simple strip of rubber. That strip of rubber has electrical connections that get sandwiched between the glass and the circuit board. Due to changing temperature effects or some banging around the glass or the circuit board are subject to getting misaligned and that causes some elements to stop working. Realignment of the glass and circuit board fixes this. This is a simple procedure once device is disassembled. The hard part will likely be powering up the display while you realign the glass. If I were trying to do this I would try to leave it connected to the fridge while working on it.

-Jamie

Joe, I don't have a display for you but many times you can cure this missing element issue by slightly moving the display glass relative to it's connections. If you aren't good with small electronics  things like this you might try a fix-it place that does things like cellphone repair. They probably know how to fix these.

Bob, just trying to help...

We have shades and blinds that are all independently controlled. They are not MCD shades but from your original post it sounds like you maybe have something similar in your controls.

Our remote has two buttons, labeled C and L, on the back. Here are instructions for mine. Maybe it just might help. If these instructions work for you, don't follow them from step 1 to the end, just use the portion of the instructions that you need.

How to reset the motor

1. Clear the code.

Press the red Learning button on the motor for 6 seconds, the motor would sound a slow “dididi”, keep on pressing and do not release until the motor sound a quick “didididi”. Then you have successfully cleared the code.

2. Match the code.

Press the motor learning button for 6 seconds, the motor would sound “dididi”, release the button, immediately press C key on the back of the remote control to match the code(note:The C key should be pressed for less than 1 second,the motor would sound a "dididi").

3. Set the trip.

First press the L key on the back of the remote control for 6 seconds, the motor has a beep tone, if you want to set the down trip, press the down button on the remote control, and press the stop button when the motor run to the position you need, and then press the C key on the back of the remote control, then the down trip has successfully been set.

Press the up button on the remote control, and press the stop button when the motor run to the position you need, and then press the C key on the back of the remote control, then the complete trip has successfully been set.

To reverse motor direction

Press and hold limit button and stop button simultaneously until motor beeps.

Motor is now reversed.

Side cameras are usually very wide angle so it isn't extremely important where you mount them for side viewability. Temporarily run wires through the window and tape camera to side for a test. Mount them on front cap where convenient to not run into things you can see looking around open generator access.

-Jamie

As Bob and Rick said, contact Monaco or REV, but don't rely too heavily on the build sheet. I got mine from REV(only thing posted in coach was weight information) but it has several errors. It listed build items that were options, so not installed and did not contain options that were installed.

-Jamie