OhReally

Joe, if you checked 12vdc fuses by sight you could easily miss a bad one. Sometimes they are broken where the fusable wire welds to the tab and they don't look bad. Take it from someone who spent a lot of time overlooking a bad in line fuse, always use a meter and check continuity.

-jamie

The 12 ton stands from HF simply don't meet my personal safety margins. We have a market that is flooded with Chinese products claiming to meet known US standards but  in actuality have no pedigree to prove it. A mechanic puts a lot of faith in stands when he is working under a vehicle and I'm sure most weight rating don't include any rocking, shaking or slippage that might occur and cause jack stand failure.

-Jamie

Chuck, even the 12 ton jack stand would be useless on my coach. I hope everyone knows the actual weight of their coach and will always add in their own safety margin when choosing tools to work on their coach.

-Jamie

Ed, to me a rectifier may be a component of a charger but not the same. A rectifier may be used to convert an AC signal to a DC signal (rectify it) and then it might be used for battery charging purposes. All DC output devices are unfortunately not battery chargers  either because a battery charger needs to output the correct DC voltages and monitor the current outputs to be an effective battery charger; i.e. it needs some more smarts to be a battery charger.  

Your Magnum inverter/charger takes shore power (AC), converts it to DC power and then regulates the output to be a battery charger. When you don't have shore power (AC), the inverter side takes battery power (DC) and converts it to a 120 volt AC signal to run your AC appliances. The conversion of DC voltage to AC voltage is usually not very efficient and that is why you need a large battery bank or solar or something else to replenish the DC supply. Hope this helps.

Well, a little good news...

The bio diesel will help clean out your tank. The bio part usually scrubs the inside of the tank leaving it cleaner than it was with non- bio diesel. That's unfortunately why you can get lift pump problems - the bio part scrubs (attacks) the seals in the pump. Good luck.

Thanks everyone for the responses to my post. I should have been more explicit in my original message. The seal has torn right where it branches to the condenser so patching it is only possible using a flexible sealant material - but that only worked for awhile. The gasket gets flexed pretty hard at that location and I'm sure that is why the original seal as well as my patch failed.

As for replacing the entire door, Splendide said I wouldn't get a new seal with it and the seal was obsolete anyway.

So, again, thanks for the responses but it doesn't look like we have a solution yet.

-Jamie

I have a Splendide WD1024 washer dryer that has developed a door seal leak. Splendide says the door seal is no longer available. I was successful at patching it once but the repair didn't last due to the leak's location on the seal - too much flexing in that area.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and did you find a seal elsewhere? Has anyone else replaced their Splendide washer dryer and with what? Does anyone have a replacement washer (dryer not needed) they want to get rid of?

-Jamie

'03 HR Scepter PDT

Just get on A1A around Patrick Air Force Base and view from beach. You will hit more traffic as you go south, nearer the cape but you can stop at beach asking anywhere before the crowds. 

You are a bit away from the launch but it is still spectacular from there.

-Jamie

'03 HR Scepter PDT

I strongly agree with the loose wire diagnosis. Unfortunately it could be a anywhere from front to back bumper.

Typically a shop will not spend the time to view all wiring and may not even be able to in a Monaco, so I'm afraid you are left with only two choices, level the coach correctly and give it a try and/or do the wiring chase and tie yourself. 

Raising the front end to compensate for the problem you describe is surely a Mickey Mouse "fix". Certainly nothing I would ever entertain.

Good luck.

-Jamie

03 HR Scepter PDT

Depending on where you are, I would give these guys a call:

Suncoast Designers, 

I agree with Dennis. I opened the connector and bent the pins slightly to improve the connections and all is good now.

Jody, sounds like you might have a failing voltage regulator or something else in the alternator that is changing with temperature. You say the alternator checks out fine but you probably aren't testing it under a load so while it looks ok it may not be. I don't know your coach specially but the tach is probably driven off an alternator electric signal so that's why it isn't working correctly either.

I would start by checking ALL connections between the alternator and the batteries, including the connections to the alternator itself. Simply looking at them is not a good check. You should remove, clean and replace every connection (large or small wire) you can get to. If that doesn't solve the problem, I would remove alternator and take it to a rebuild shop for check out. If you have an external voltage regulator you should probably also take that to the shop with you.

Good luck.

Steve, on some TVs the HDMI ports are not all the same. Try your fire stick on hdmi1 or hdmi2 instead.

Sounds like you have a spring problem. Gravity helps it extend but no spring to help it retract.

If you went with either FMCA option, they will supply you the modem that works on their system and yes, the comment about Verizon throttling the service after an amount of usage is correct.

The supplied modem can easily connect wirelessly to a wired/wireless router you purchase and then you can connect wirelessly or with Ethernet.

Also you can look into the FMCA offering. 50$ per month from either Verizon or Sprint if you are a FMCA member. Verizon wants a contract but Sprint is month to month. 

In either case, the LTE modem doesn't care whether it's in an RV or a fixed home.

Joan, need more information. If you are parked with engine off, the leaking air you hear could simply be the air leveling system. This would be normal.

-jamie

Walter, if I understand what you are trying to do correctly you can get a 'continuous, normally open, solenoid relay' to replace the currently installed solenoid on the salesman switch. 

With this you will have no draw at all when the salesman switch is off. You will turn the salesman switch on (to close the solenoid) when you want power to your rig. Might be a small learning curve but this will work.

-Jamie

19 hours ago, daveyjo said:

I replaced my electronic door lock circuit board a couple of years ago, and it worked fine.  I think the brand was Essex.  Two days ago, it decided my unlock code locked my doors, and my lock code unlocked them.  Weird.  Does the same thing whether I manually enter the code or I use the push button remote controller.  Anybody encounter this or know how to fix it?

 

Dave Jones

2005 HR Scepter

Sounds like a complete reset of the door lock system is in order. You should remove all power from the lock system for a few minutes (door lock itself and any other associated "electronic box", then power it back up and follow the manufacturers procedure for resetting it - should be the same as a new install. You will probably lose all your previous coding so make sure you have the information, including manufacturers default codes, beforehand so you can input it again.

-Jamie

Jason, I sent this yesterday but I see it never got posted, so here it is again.

Jason, yes it sounds like your fuel pick up tube might be the problem. It also sounds like the lines or the electric fuel pump on your generator might be the problem. I assume you have changed the filter recently. The new filter could still be the problem but just keep that in mind while you check the fuel delivery lines.

On 1/16/2020 at 1:17 PM, georgecederholm said:

Rick,

Sorry to come to this thread late. Here are a few thoughts:

Since (I think) you have an aftermarket system, some of the "what Monaco did" stuff may have been changed during the "upgrade". If I recall correctly, your 2005 Exec has been upgraded to an Aqua-Hot 600D with dual electric elements and two of the newer 10-button thermostats, which implies that your original roof units have been changed as well. Is that correct?

In general, everything I've read about how rigs with two roof units but three Aqua-Hot zones were accomplished was that a standalone Dometic control board was embedded in a cabinet somewhere to handle the lavatory/bath zone. If my assumptions (!!) are correct, that would mean that whoever upgraded your roof units and thermostats would have had to chase down that hidden control board and upgrade it as well. That board would be connected to one of the RJ-11 data cables from either the front or rear thermostat (original would likely have been the rear). So, if that middle zone board was never found/upgraded, then you'll not see that zone on either thermostat.

Monaco would not have left the middle zone uncontrolled, and the basement circuit would circulate for that area but not likely control the power to the heat exchanger fans. But that doesn't mean the upgrade installer would have carried that forward, especially if the Aqua-Hot 600D change and the roof unit/thermostat change were done at different times. I suspect that your best next move (other than getting to the relative warmth of Q) would be to try to locate a hidden control board. I never captured the threads on this from the old site because I have three roof units, but maybe someone recalls likely locations. I would think there should be a limited number of likely places, like behind false walls in the shower or water closet wall cabinets.

George C, 2005 Exec, with very similar upgrades

Rick, I'm pretty sure George is on the right track here. If you had/have HPs in roof AC units the board George refers to would be in one of those.  

Good luck.

-Jamie