a4epilot

Going to be replacing my operating a/c's even though they are ok as I don't want to get stuck when one fails when it's hot. They are Penguin units, 15,000 BTU in living room and 13,500 in bedroom. Windsor 06 that I've lived in full-time so I'm thinking they are approaching their useful life. When the outside temps get into the 90's they can't keep up so considering replacing the bedroom unit with a 15,000. It should install in the same space without any modifications and the amperage increase is very small so circuit overload should not be a problem. Also, considering going with the Blizzard NXT units instead of Penguins as they produce about 50 CFM's more. Waiting to hear back from Dometic to know if the physical install will require modifications or not. Blizzards are a few inches taller but that should not be a problem for me. Dometic did tell me to stick with the 5 button CCC as they indicated it is a better unit then the CCC II. Can use the same wiring, just need to replace the circuit boards with different ones that will operate with the 5 button. They did tell me the additional board will work with both the new Penguins and Blizzards. From watching YouTube, looks like about a 20 minute change over. Replacement board cost around $135. I've heard that I will need to use an additional mounting gasket, making it 2 per unit, to lift it high enough to allow clearance for the condensation drain trays? Anyone have anything to offer on my project? Thanks! Gary K 06 Windsor

Bruce, I'm having a hard time too finding things on this new site. Going to take more time checking things out to learn all the in's and out's. I went back to find what I told you about and spent 30 minutes trying to locate it again; frustrating, but I did finally stumble onto it. Here's it is. Hopefully, just clicking on it will take you there? Gary

Bruce, pwhittle posted on January 6 how he did it with pics. Go to his list of postings and find it. Gary

Jack, You broke the code! 👍🙂 Knew there had to be something like that in the circuit. I just gave up looking too easily. 😒 Since my Blue Seas ML-ACR arrived from Amazon today, I'm going to install it in place of the Isolation Relay Delay and Trombetta/Bear isolation relay. (Replaces both) It's a much better device in every way and should be more reliable than what Intellitec made, although that's easy to do given Intellitec's poor reputation. Blue Seas was made for marine use which is a much more demanding environment. Thanks so much!! Gary K

Based on replies from members of this forum, I've decided to replace my Trombetta/Bear battery paralleling relay with a Blue Seas ML-ACR. It's a much better device. Found a good price on Amazon for $171 with the manual switch on top. Arrives tomorrow. I sent individual messages of thanks to all who replied; hope I didn't forget anyone? This forum is simply awesome! In the past I've had some impossible problems to diagnose but in the end someone always comes through with the solution. Where would we all be without each other?! It is not a stretch to say that there would be many Monacos parked permanently without the resources found here. I'm especially grateful to those who have run the forum in the past on Yahoo and then made the transition to this site; an amazing amount of effort and caring for the rest of us!! Thanks again to all! Gary K

Sandy, you are not wasting my time! I really appreciate you taking the time to offer any suggestions. I am vaguely aware of the forum you mentioned. I do receive their postings but am not a member. In the meantime, I believe I will take the advice of one of our members who responded earlier and convert to a Blue Seas ML-ACR. It should be a much better and more reliable device. Thank you.

My house batteries do not charge when the engine is running. I've done as much trouble shooting as possible and have determined that the Trombetta/Bear paralleling relay is not defective. It closes when the "Batt Boost" switch on the dash is pressed when the engine is running and when it is not, as it was designed. The problem is, when the engine is running, the relay should be receiving another power source that closes the relay like the "Batt Boost" switch does. In other words, the relay should close when either the Boost switch is pressed or automatically when the engine is running. What I need to know is, where does the power source come from that activates the relay when the engine is running? The alternator was just rebuilt and is outputting normally. Everything is normal except for the house battery charging. Anyone know where I can obtain a wiring diagram of my 06 Windsor? If I had that, I could locate the problem. Anyone know a repair facility anywhere in the country that I could call to find the answer? Getting ready to get on the road for the summer soon and need to get this repaired. Thanks in advance! Gary K

Dr4Film, I agree with your thoughts completely. Now, finding where that control circuit comes from when the engine starts. That's the key. I'm sure others have had the same problem and know the answer. I looked at the run bay where it's located and no obvious answer did I find. Thanks.

Finally, I remembered everything regarding the battery paralleling relay:Trombetta 114-1211-020 12 Volt Bear DC Contactor. I replaced it last year. Repeating from my original posting, when using the "Batt Boost" switch on the dash with engine running, the relay closes and the house batteries begin to charge as they should have without using the boost switch so the relay coil is OK as well as the contacts themselves. What is missing is the power to the coil to close it upon engine start as it should and therefore begin charging the house batteries without having to do anything. The chassis batteries charge normally when engine is running as I believe they are wired directly to the alternator. There are 2 small wires going to the coil, white and purple. I'm guessing that one is a ground from the "Batt Boost" switch and the other is a ground from whatever the source is when the engine is running. So, 2 sources to close the relay contacts and the engine running source has failed. Anyone know the source and how to check it? Thanks. Gary K

Had my 40' 06' Windsor completely repainted a single color at https://www.facebook.com/navarrosdobyshop/ in Mexico just across the border near Yuma, AZ last spring. They sanded it down & eliminated all the thermal checking. 12 men working 6 weeks and did beautiful job: $11,000. I gave them an extra $1000 for the good work. They coated the roof with a white thicker product made for that purpose. Used all high quality USA paints. I went with a lighter single gold color and no dark colors hopefully to reduce the surface heat and reduce the chances of the thermal checking returning. It's been only a year but still looks great: no problems. They will do any scheme you want including factory original or anything you want. Multi-colors are approximately an extra couple of thousand dollars more. I left it with them and spend the time in Europe. Fulltimer and left everything inside. Nothing missing. Was locked in their compound with a person living in a house inside the compound as well so very secure. Good people! Honest and hard working! Highly recommend! Been there 45 years. Many USA custom cars and motorhomes. They know their business. Contact me directly if you want more info. Gary K

The 2 replies I just received jogged my memory. I believe I did replace a relay a while back. I normally keep excellent maintenance records but cannot find any entry about it. I'm really stumped. I can't remember having a problem that would have required a replacement so I need to investigate further. I do remember many past postings about others having to replace it. Thanks for responding and I'm sure that's the problem. Will get into it tomorrow and post what I find. Gary K 06' WIndsor Just found a receipt dated last year in my flies for a, Trombetta 114-1211-020, Bear 12VDC Contactor, continuous duty. Could that be the one causing the problem?

Alternator is not charging house batteries. Charges chassis batteries normally. Alternator outputting normally, for sure. If I press "Batt Boost" switch on dash, house batteries begin to charge. Inverter/charger charges house batteries normally. Obviously, there is a break somewhere between the alternator and the house batteries. What component is the most likely to have failed? Everything else in the 12VDC system operating normally. Thanks in advance, Gary K 06' Windsor

No more Michelins for me. Last set had the familiar sidewall cracking on all 6. Have keep copies of many of the postings over the years by our group on tire experiences. I went with Toyo M-144. Clean history with no problems. Not an RV tire; that's a good thing. It's a well established truck tire. Price was half of Michelin. I paid $413 each for same size as yours plus installation at a local dealer in a small AZ town. Price was better than online or in Phoenix. Ride is the same as Michelin. Very happy and would do again. Gary K 06' Windsor