Doug Hoegh

Paul I’ll let you know. Mine started acting up on our last trip. When using the generator it’s cycling through the shedding process. I need to do some troubleshooting to confirm I’m getting the generator signal to the board.  Today’s project.

Paul will your agreement also let you purchase any of the load shedding system boards?  the 750 series in particular.  Assuming they even still make this system.

I recently read that Winegard acquired Silverleaf.  Not sure if that's good or bad.

Scotty was fishing the wire from the power bay easy?  Nice bezel.

Great job to the entire team. Merry Christmas to all.

Not much else to say

Here is the link. http://www.summit-products.com/ss-exstep.htm

4 hours ago, Jeff H said:

I have that connector in the same place on my Diplomat.

Dumb question but were the Diplomats made in Indiana and Oregon?  Could that be the difference?

My understanding is all Diplomats were manufactured in Wakarusa.  We had our floor upgraded a couple of years ago by a company called New Debut. Their shop is in one of the buildings that was part of the original Monaco campus. It’s a big place.

4 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

Sure Doug, never hurts to have a document on hand just in case one needs it.

Steve,

The diagnostic port of the Allison on our coach is in the front run bay mounted on the right hand side. It has a cover over it and is rectangular in shape. I just happen to have a photo.

Bendix EC-60 ABS/ATC/ESP Controllers Service Manual

Bendix EC-60 ABS:ATC:ESP Controllers Service Manual.pdf

1 hour ago, Steven P said:

@Bob Nodine

That's crazy.  The tech started there and I do not have that port that you have.  And mine is round instead of rectangular.  How about you @Scotty Hutto?  @Doug Hoegh?  I checked but do not have a pic on me.  

Steve I have a round J1939 in the front run bay that I assume (I've never tested it) is the connection for the ABS system  This booklet I just posted for Bob shows a diagnostic tool that plugs into such a port. 

On 12/15/2020 at 4:41 AM, Bob Nodine said:

Things are a little slow around the house so thought I would seek some answers to things that have stumped me for years.

First let me say that we do not presently have any problems with the engine or ABS and are just trying to satisfy our curiosity.

First Mystery: What does the Eng Diag switch do. See photo. The owner's manual simply says "Checks engine functions" with no other explanation. It is located near the diagnostic port on the left of the steering column so we thought it might be used in conjunction with a device plugged into that port. We have owned this coach for 13 years and for 12 of those years the SilverLeaf has been plugged into that port. There is a port in the FRB and one in the engine compartment. A few years ago Bill Groves connected his laptop with Insight to the one in the engine compartment and the switch in question was not used.

 

Second Mystery: The user's manual says we have an ABS diagnostics center with a switch and indicator for troubleshooting the ABS system. For years I have looked for this module and have never found it. The manual says it is in the FRB but it is not there. The manual also gives instructions on how to use the ABS diagnostics center. There is a diagnostic port near the area where the manual says this diagnostics center should be located but I suspect it is just a third engine diagnostic port. I have attached photos of the manual pages and the port in the front run bay. If anyone who owns a 2006 Diplomat can help with these questions I would appreciate.

Bob I also have a 2006 Diplomat and lost an ABS wheel sensor a couple of years ago.  After searching I found the Bendix module under the shift pad and leveling panel.  I was able to trigger the error codes by jumping a couple of the pins on one of the connectors at the box.  I too have always wondered why I don't have the diagnostic board many seem to have in the front run bay.  I do have an extra J1939 and assume it's connected to the Bendix box but have never confirmed.  I have the pdf file of the Bendix box if you would like a copy.

For all you guys that have gone to a residential with the furnace underneath and being married to a vertically challenged spouse (5'0") has your better half complained about reaching to the top part of the refrigerator?  I know it's not earth shattering, but I am curious.  My wife has a Dickins of time even for the cabinets.  I bought her a short stool, but that's also a pain.

9 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Doug,

If  you haven't had the cover off your service panel it may be worthwhile to do a general inspection and check all the wiring connections for tightness.  Same thing with the transfer switch etc.  As much moving and bouncing the coach does it pays to do this on a regular basis.

Jim

Definitely planning to check this week. I replaced my IOTA last year so I know my new transfer switch also needs it’s yearly checkup. Thanks.

4 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

Doug,

If your 06 Diplomat is like mine it has relays on the EMS board that open the AC power to the air conditioners, water heater, and washer/dryer. On ours the first load to be shed is the water heater, then the rear air conditioner, next the washer dryer, and as a last resort the front air conditioner. A number of years back the relay that controls the rear air conditioner on ours failed so I just moved the input and output wires to the same terminal. That means the EMS cannot shed the rear air conditioner but we do not depend on the EMS to manage power so no big deal for us. The terminals at the front of the EMS board were the AC power is fed in and out of the relays is one of the locations that I check the tightness of the screws once each year. If they get loose they will over heat the board and lead to failure. I also check all the terminals in the AC distribution panel and the transfer switch each year for the same reason.

Bob. Thanks. Will be doing a check up next week.

56 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Doug,

My manual states the same as yours. However, it depends on how the EMS was wired. I have come across boards that have completely different device shedding orders.

The EMS board is capable of shedding four 120 VAC devices and two 12 VDC devices. My board does not have any 12 VDC devices attached to it and I believe that Monaco chose to NOT use the 12 VDC relays to control the AC thermostat because it would disable both AC's at the same time leaving you with no AC at all.

Richard  Thanks for the explanation.  Someday I'll have to take a look and see how mine has been wired.

I’m confused. Although I haven’t personally looked at my control boards the manual I have indicates the air conditioner loads are not controlled by the EMS board breaking the 120 VAC, instead by interrupting the thermostat circuits. Which is it?

On 8/21/2020 at 9:14 AM, rpasetto said:

I got the explorer test kit with the two remotes.  It works as advertised.  If the cable(s) are open it cannot tell where the break is, but continuous cables with good connectors test correctly. 

For example: There are two cables which run to the rear from my passenger equipment cabinet and two cables show up in the rear bedroom TV cabinet.  One of the two cables test good and now is hooked up to carry the "SatB" port to my second receiver.  (I was planning to use the other one to carry the antenna signal.)  In addition to that unknown cable in the PS compartment there are two cables in the DS overhead cabinet labelled "Bedroom TV" and ""VCR".  I now know that none of these connect to that cable in the Bedroom TV cabinet.  In every test I get an "open"... that could be a break in cable or bad connector at either end.

I only had one cable that ran from the front entertainment area in my Diplomat to the rear TV. I wanted the ability to run either Dish or OTA on the same cable.  I put a couple of diplexers on either end with success.  Now the cable works with either my Traveler to Wally signal or the Winegard Sensar OTA signal from my front mounted antennas.  

Contact Tim at www.rvcams.com. A fellow Monaco owner and a great guy

17 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Here's a picture of some big boys that I snagged off the internet. From what I understand, the "big boy" is used to automatically combine battery banks for charging purposes.

I don't know about your 2005 HR, but my rig  doesn't have a bigboy per se. I've got diode-based battery isolation between the alternator and the house bank (so alternator can charge house batts), and another between the house and chassis batteries (so the charger and/or solar can charge the chassis batts).

I do have one  really big relay to combine the chassis and house batteries, but it's for intermittent manual battery boost, triggered from a switch on the dash. 

That can’t be a Monaco installation. Wiring is way to nice and tidy.

You may have issues using the coax for the Dish Box if you're going through a splitter.  I used Diplexers to handle the higher frequency for Dish vs. the lower frequency for OTA TV.  Works well.  Here's my setup

Monaco Entertainment Upgrade.pdf

8 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Magnum owners manual recommends 300a with ms2012 and 400a with ms2812.  The two have the same physical dimensions and wiring layout. 

One difference in wiring is the 2812 only has one output.  The 2012 has two.

12 hours ago, Cruzbill said:

And the right fuse for that 4/0-400a or 450a, not sure. 

Agree. Mine came with the new larger fuse.

35 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Does anyone know if the connections and mounting footprint for the MS2012 are the same as the ME2012 it will replace? IOW, do I just pull the ME2012 out and plug in the MS2012 using the same connections?

Would it be the same for the MS2812 after upgrading the cables?

Ed

Footprint is the same. As mentioned Magnum recommends 4/0 versus your current 2/0 and the 2812 only has one output. I found a two pole Square D mini breaker panel At Home Depot I’m planning on using.

I think Scotty is ready to go with the correct hardware.  I did the quick connects with a 30 foot hose teed for both my Q1000 Weber and my 17" Blackstone.  Like others have said you need to remove the regulators at the appliance.  If you don't have a local propane shop to help with parts I have read good things about www.propanegear.com.  I know they have the parts to bypass the built in regulator on the small Blackstone griddles.  Here's a picture of what I did to eliminate the regulator on mine.

19 hours ago, Eric M said:

DirecTV is always the best. Hands down. 

I respectfully disagree. I think Dish is far easier to work with.  But that’s what makes the world go around. The ability to have a different opinion about a product or service.

I've heard that RV sales are up because people want a way to travel that they consider safer.  I know that Lippert stock is up.

For the guys that didn’t do a complete repaint on either the whole coach or a panel and instead used a touch pen or brush, how does it look?  Was the clear coat mixed in with the color in the pen or was that a second coat?