NAMVET77

OK.  Just called ESCO and they recommend a new switch that is relay based so there will be no humming at all (only $330).  So I'm going to open it up, clean it, make sure everything is tight then try it again. A new coil and/or contactor might fix it but as they said the hum is inherent to that switch.  Thanks for everyones ideas and suggestions.

Don 

Thanks Russ. I’ll check it out.  I normally have a hum that we are use to but not it is 3 to 4 times louder.  Plus it’s located just under the bedroom window so if it keeps up like that it will be heard while trying to sleep.  Don’t like that. 
Don

Tom

Thanks for the background information. Good to know. I’m calling Esco in a few minutes to see what they say.  I’m going to stand by the unit and let them hear it so they can hear how loud it is.  I’ll look at the troubleshooting guide to see if there is anything I can do.  Not sure there is. More to follow. 
Don

Thanks Ivan.  I'm going to call Esco in the AM to see about the hum.  It sure is loud and just under the bedroom window.

Don

Thanks Tom.  Definitely calling Esco in the AM.

Don

Brad,

No chatter.  It is definitely a loud hum.

Don

I have the ESSCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch and it is humming much louder than normal.  I'm thinking one of the relays is going bad.  I'm getting ready to go on the road in a couple days and I want to buy just the one relay and have it available just in case it does go out.  Does anyone have the part number for the relay?

Don

Update on the parking brake not releasing.  During my search for air leaks (found a whole bunch) I replaced a dozen or so brass fittings that were leaking.  On the front tank there is a 3 way check valve and it was leaking at the tank,  There are 3 air lines that attach to the 3 way check valve (silver, red and green).  I took a picture of the set up, removed the lines and fittings and replaced the fittings.  Reinstalled the air lines as per the picture (or as I thought I did).  Checked for leaks and there were none.  Moved on to other leaks.  Anyway, after a lot of double and triple checking the green and red lines at the 3 way check valve were reversed.  Switched the air lines and now the parking brake releases!!!🤪  Now we are getting ready to go to the MS rally.  Thanks for the input even though the problem was self inflected.

Don

Just a follow up. I replaced the O ring on the quick disconnect, lubed it, greased the plastic ring and put it back together.  Now everything seems to be working fine. At least for now there are no leaks. 

Don

My 04 Camelot has developed a water leak where the connection coming from the reel to the pex tubing is.  Took the reel out and removed the fitting (quick disconnect) from the reel.  There is one oring on that quick disconnect.  Reading through other sites some have mentioned replacing 2 or 3 orings.  Anyone have experience with replacing the orings (how many)?  The reel is a TDI product (can't find any info on them) part number RVW5003.  Thanks.

Don

PS.  Still working on figuring why my emergency brake won't relaese.

Well, today I learned how to cage the rear brakes.  Once caged, I drove off the ramps I was on.  No problem moving because the rear brakes were bypassed (caged).  I had front brakes so I could still stop.  I went up and down my drive way  (200 feet) several times (slowly).  Backed back in the garage and uncaged the rear brakes.  Started it up again and it would not move!!!🤒  Replacing the air dryer body should not have anything with the brakes other than drying the air (at least that is what I can figure out).   After some deep thinking on what I did with all the air leaks I had, I remembered I replaced the parking brake body you pull to engage the parking brake because it would leak air every time I applied the parking brake.  So, tomorrow's project is to open the side panel and double check everything I did there.  Took pics and put it back like it came apart.  It's pretty straight forward to replace.  But I'm thinking the issue is in the parking brake somewhere.  Any thoughts??

Don

Thanks everyone for the advice.  I do have disc’s brakes in the front and obviously drums in the rear. I will definitely chock it up and pry or lightly hammer the rear brakes to get them to release.  Tomorrow will be a great day. 
Don

Murry/Richard,

Thanks for your input.  I'm on my way out there now to see what I can do..  I did notice the front rotors have rusted up some but did not notice the rears rusted.  I'll chock it up and crawl under to check it out.  Thanks again.

Don

Richard,

I'll be in NH from the 20th of may until the 27th of May.  What campground are you at?  I hope we have time to come and say hi.  We will be in Londonderry at my moms house.  If you want to take this offline email me at hikenbike77@gmail.com.

Don

My 04 Camelot has been sitting in the garage for a couple months on blocks.  I had multiple air leaks everywhere.  So I rebuilt front and rear air valves on the 6 packs.  Fixed leaks on both front and rear air tanks. The air dryer had a leak on one of the lines and the bottom of the air dryer housing had a leak on a rubber/plastic gizmo.  Replaced the housing and air dryer filter.  Had a leak on the rear air drain valve.  Removed the blocks the coach had been sitting on.  Couldn't find any more leaks so I started the engine and let the system run up on air (130 psi).  Blead the air down several times but applying the brakes and letting off.  The pressure relief valve finally popped.  I put it in gear to get off the boards I had driven up on to get some height and I could feel the transmission engage but when I gave it some throttle it would not move.  I put it in reverse and tried that and still would not move.  Recycled the air brake several times and put it in forward and reverse and gave it some throttle and it still won't budge.  I have it in travel mode with a green light.  Is there some procedure I have to do after changing out the air dryer housing?  Air is good.  I can hear the air release when I depress the air brake (emergency brake) and air lock on when I pull the air brake handle up to activate the brakes.  Bewildered!!!

Don Genesse     

Changing the air brake actuator fixed that leak but still have other leaks I’m working on. Thanks everyone for your help. 
Don Genesse 

Ivan,

Can you PM me at hikenbike77@gmail.com?

Don Genesse

Thanks. I went to the local Peterbuilt parts store and they didn’t have it in stock but could order it and have it in 5 days for $150!!!  On line it was $45 to $100. Went to NAPA and they will have it here Tuesday for $55. The part number they used was KN20031.  It will be installed Tuesday then I get to air check the whole system. Thanks everyone. 
Don Genesse 

Craig, thanks for the feedback. Hopefully when I get it out there will be a p/n on it or a manufacturer name on it. 
Don Genesse

When I apply the emergency brake (pulling the handle up) I can hear a air leak.  If I wiggle the handle it seems to stop although the air gauge goes down to 0 PSI in a few hours.  I just rebuilt the front and rear six packs (what a PITA).  I had a couple leaking so I did them all.  Thank you "Ivan" for the tool to removing the nut on the air valve.  So, my question before I get into it is, is the brake actuator (not sure of the correct nomenclator) rebuildable (ie replace o rings) assuming there are o rings or do I just replace the actuator?  Either way if it is rebuildable what size are the o rings and how many?  If not rebuildable, what is the part number for the valve?  It's a HWH system on a 04 Camelot, air leveling.  TIA.

Don Genesse

I would love to have a complete set, left and right. 04 Camelot. 
Don

First I want to thank everyone for your input. Now I know a little more than I did before working on the generator. I received the new belt today and installed it right away. Checked everything real close then started it up. It started right away. Let it run for 15 minutes then put a good load on it and ran the genny for a half hour. It ran flawlessly. No error codes. So on to the next project (rebuild the air valves). Thanks everyone. 
Don

Ivan,

I'm about to rebuild all the air valves on both 6 pacs.  I would like to have one of the nut adapters.  My email is hikenbike77@gmail.com.  I will gladly pay for the shipping.  Thanks.

Don

Just an update on my generator issue.  I have been waiting for a belt for a week.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.  As soon as it gets here I will install it and put the panels back on and run it .  The last time I ran it, it ran for 15 minutes and stopped.  Since I had the side, back and top panels off I'm thinking it got to hot with all the panels off (air not properly circulating).  At least is was starting.  That was the original problem, not starting.  Once they are all back on I'm hoping my issue with shutting down goes away.  At least it did start.  More to follow.

Don 

Thanks Ivan and Richard for your feedback.

Don

Richard

I’m about read to rebuild the air valves on each 6 pac on my 04 Camelot. I wasn’t planning on removing the manifold. Guess it depends on how good or bad it looks. My question is where did you get the spare coils?  I checked with HWH and they want over $100 bucks for each one. The guy I talked to didn’t know what the resistance each coil should be. I’ve heard 10 or 15 ohms. The spare I have measures 11 ohms. I guess I could do a voltage check to see if the coil activates the air valve. 

Thanks Ivan. The one that was replaced last summer has a label on it but it’s not readable. But at least I now know which size to get. I’m ordering the orings today and hopefully will be able to start next week. The MH is up on blocks ready to go.  More to follow. 
Don

I had a shop replace an air valve on the rear six pack due to an air leak while I was traveling. It was pricey.  Hopefully they put the correct valve in. How do I determine which one to get if I need one?  I believe there was a green Dot on the inside bottom of the valve. I didn’t see any markings identifying the size??? OBTW, the MH still looses air over night on the left rear. So probably another leak. This is why I am going to rebuild all of them.  I don’t imagine the oring store sells coils if I need a new one.  Someone must sell the coils. Probably whoever sells the air valves. I checked the resistance of the old valve and it was 15 ohms. I want to get this right the first time.  Thanks. 
Don

Ok, it's time to tackle the 6 pack air valves (waiting for Gen parts to come in so I need a new project!!!).  From what I remember, the source for the O rings was Valid (located in Canada).  Talked to them and they said they don't service HWH systems??  Dupont Viton are the O rings of choice but where is a good source to buy them? I have the sizes for all 3 O rings.  Also may need a coil or two if they check bad.  Does anyone know what the resistance reading should be of the coil or is it a voltage check? Any POC's at whatever company will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

Don