NAMVET77

I did that and didn't see any water.

I did some more research and my fault code on the dash is 418 (water in fuel).  Not sure how that happened.  Haven't driven the coach for a couple months and after all the servicing it ran great (didn't drive it though).  Generator just ran good for an hour with a good load on it???  I will definitely change the filters as soon as I get back next weekend.  More to follow.

Changed oil, filters etc a couple weeks ago and everything checked good (no leaks and engine ran fine).  Couldn't get the air dryer filter (brakes) off so ordered the right size filter wrench to remove the dryer filter.  Replaced it today and started up to air up the system and check for air leaks.  Engine ran for 20 seconds then shout off.  Now it won't start at all.  Turned the key on and went back to listen to the fuel pump.  The pump is running but doesn't seem like it is as loud as it use to be.  Engine turns over great just no start.  Not even sure exactly where the pump is.  Looks like it might be on the right side of the block looking towards the back of the engine.  Tried feeling everything to see if I could feel it but no joy.  The coach is a 04 Camelot with the 350 ISC engine.  Has about 95K miles on it.  The engine has been problem free to this point.  Do all the maintenance myself and am pretty handy but this one has me stumped.  Not much of a diesel mech.  Any help on what to check will be greatly appreciated.  Leaving town Monday for a week so won't be able to get back to it until next week.  TIA.

Don Genesse

I love all the input I have received.  I tried an experiment today to see what would happen with 125 foot pound torque wrench and the digital torque gauge.  I am going on vacation (flying) so I don't have time to do any more work on it.  I will get back into it after new years.  I hope everyone on this site has a great Christmas and a better New Year.  Thanks for all the info.

Don Genesse

04 Camelot

I didn't get a chance to put the gauge right behind the socket today but will tomorrow (not sure why that would make a difference).  Is there a formula to using the torque multiplier?  Davis L mentioned if I torqued the lug nuts to 300 pounds it would be waaaaay over the 300 foot pounds that the meter read.  The torque multiplier may not be real accurate but neither is just using a air impact wrench.  I was hoping to be able to get it close but without a torque wrench I will not know how good or bad it would be.  Any ideas on the right amount of torque to read on the gauge???  I have looked everywhere to see if there was a formula but can not find any data and none came with the gauge or the torque multiplier.  It sure worked good taking off the lug nuts.......

Don

I went to a local truck repair garage yesterday and they don’t torque lug nuts. All they use is a 1 inch air gun until the nuts are tight and call it a day!!!  That is what the guy did that came to the house and changed the tires.  When I was in a campground last summer I noticed a leak on one of my inside tires. When the road side assistance showed up he fixed the leak (loose valve stem) and when he put the tires back on he did the same thing. Hit it with a 1 inch air gun and called it a day. I asked about torquing the lug nuts and he said they never do it!!!

Don

Mine is very similar but I have a couple more sockets. Bought mine on Amazon. 
Don

I did have the gauge on the back end of the torque multiplier. I’ll try and put it right after the lug nut socket.  The multiplier is a 50 to 1.  It shouldn’t take a lot of effort to get to 500 ft lbs.  The handle is just a short hand crank style handle. 

I have a 2004 Camelot and I can't find any specs on torqueing the lug nuts.  I have read and heard that it's supposed to be 500 foot pounds.  I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high so I bought a torque multiplier and a digital gauge to get an accurate reading.  My problem is, I can only torque the nuts to 300 foot pounds.  I'm not the strongest guy around but can hold my own.  I see several strings where people do their own work and use a multiplier with the digital reader.  How the heck do you get to 500 foot pounds? 

Don

I just had the windshields replaced.  They made sure the gasket was glued to the front cap.  The glass itself was not glued in.  They did a good job.  RV Glass Solutions is who the insurance contracted through and RV Solutions contracted to Go Glass of Florida.  They came from Rockledge FL (near the Space Port) and cover the whole state.  I live near Port Charlotte, and they had several other jobs in the area so they scheduled them all for 2 days.  Everything went very good.

Any one that lives and is registered in Florida, the insurance company has to pay for any replacement windshields (car, truck, RV) at no cost to you (no deductible either).  Obviously they have to approve the replacement.  This is my 4th windshield (car & MH) in 8 years living here.

Thanks for all your inputs.. This group is  AWSOME!!!

Don Genesse

04 Camelot

I am about to have both of my windshields replaced.  Talking to the company they said they would glue the new gasket to the coach.  They would also glue the windshield to the gasket. The last company that replaced one of the windshields said they never glue the windshield to the gasket.  Seems to me the glass should not be glued to the gasket.  That way there is some small amount of movement depending on the temperature and road/driveway contortion during driving.  What are your thoughts???

Don Genesse

04 Camelot 

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Don,

I am a little confused with your posts.

I had a Banks Power Pack installed by Banks on my previous Windsor back in July 2013 well after they stop selling the kits for the ISC engines. They still had some for the ISB engines back then. I purchased the kit from an owner who had ordered the wrong kit for his truck engine but never returned it. Got it for 50% off.

When Banks went to install the kit, the Ottomind was DOA. But they still had a few in stock so I purchased one. Everything worked great until last year on our way home from Workamping in New Hampshire the EGT & Boost gauges became erratic and eventually they both quit working. However, the engine still had plenty of boost and power. I tried disconnecting the connector and spraying both ends with contact cleaner but no joy. I sent Banks an email in regard to the symptoms and their response was that the wiring harness for the gauges has been compromised somewhere between the Ottomind and the gauges.

Also, there have been two times when I had to use the Bypass Adapter which returns the engine back to "stock" because of temporary problems. The first time was while in California in 2017 when I had an electrical problem with the house battery bank negative cable which caused a power failure to the Ottomind. I didn't realize it at the time what was going on, but when I looked down at the Banks gauges, they were both dead. So, I just used the Bypass adapter to finish our trip. Later after doing some reading and research with the wiring schematics it mentioned that there is a 5-amp fuse somewhere. But when Banks installed the kit, they never told me where they placed this fuse. Well, two years later when inspecting the crack in the exhaust manifold, I discovered a fuse holder laying on top of the rear of the engine near the back of the transmission. I opened it up and VOILA, it had a blown 5-amp fuse which I replaced and the Ottomind came back to life.

The second time was on our trip up to New Hampshire back in 2021. After driving nearly 1400 miles from Florida and four days of traveling, the day we were to arrive at our Workamping jobs, we stopped for a break and some lunch at a rest stop on I-495 in Massachusetts. When we went to leave the rest stop I had very little boost in the engine plus the Banks gauges were dead again. Coasted over to the side of the road and decided this was not the area to diagnose what the problem maybe so I inserted the Banks Power Pack Bypass plug first and it worked. We arrived at our Workamping jobs later that day. During the summer, I started to troubleshoot the problem and found a corroded negative terminal end on the Banks wiring. I replaced both the positive and negative ends of each wire, and the Banks came back to life.

However, as I stated earlier in the post, on the trip back home to Florida the gauges became erratic and eventually quit working BUT the Ottomind was still working fine and still is to this day with the new owner.

When reading other Banks Power Pack owners posts on various forums the average lifespan for the Ottomind has been in the 8–12-year range.

So, my confusion lies with your statement that the EGT gauge quit working. Just having the EGT gauge quit doesn't necessarily mean that the Ottomind quit. Did you really mean to say that the Ottomind completely failed which causes BOTH the EGT & BOOST gauges to quit thereby rendering the Banks Power Pack completely useless?

Richard,

Good to hear from you.  I thought you had the Banks system on you Windsor.  My gauges (EGT and Boost) stopped working just prior to getting to San Diego 3 months ago.  I contacted Banks tech support and told them what happened.  They told me to look for the fuse.  So I finally found it and it was blown.  So I replaced it and soon as I turned on the engine it blew again.  SO, I tried it once more and the same thing happened again.  SO, I was back on the phone with Banks again.   They said if there was no obvious shorts in the wiring the control unit was bad (short on the circuit card) and there is no repair or replacement for it.  I checked the wiring and there were no identifiable shorts or cut wires.  There was no by pass plug given to me when it was installed at the dealer when we bought the coach new.  I took the control box out and had a good friend look at it (he is a electronic expert) and can fix anything.  The inside of the box was completely potted.  So the circuit card inside could not be trouble shot.  Banks said there is no replacement and they didn't have any in stock  They said it has been out of production for 10 years.  So I removed the harness and plugged in all the original connectors in.  I checked the harness for any possible problems and didn't find any.  The system has been on the coach for 18 years and worked great for the whole time and never had any problems with the system.  I have only driven 10 miles (changing camp grounds) since I have removed the complete system, so I really don't have a feel how the coach is going to run yet.  Next week we start heading home so I'll know soon how the coach runs without help.  I still have the whole system and will look further into it when we get home.  Not that it will do any good but I'll have all my tools and supplies to better check it out for any identifiable issues.

Since I didn't have a EGT gauge any more I decided to install a new EGT gauge.  Unfortunately the EGT gauge that was in the Banks system wouldn't work because the sensor went from the exhaust manifold to the control box then to the gauge.  So the gauge was getting the iinput from the control box.  Banks confirmed that.  So I had to buy a new gauge that came with a new sensor.  I bought a digital gauge so there would be no guessing on what the temperature was.  The biggest pain was running the wire from the manifold to the dash.  Got it all done and it works great.

Don

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Don,

I am a little confused with your posts.

I had a Banks Power Pack installed by Banks on my previous Windsor back in July 2013 well after they stop selling the kits for the ISC engines. They still had some for the ISB engines back then. I purchased the kit from an owner who had ordered the wrong kit for his truck engine but never returned it. Got it for 50% off.

When Banks went to install the kit, the Ottomind was DOA. But they still had a few in stock so I purchased one. Everything worked great until last year on our way home from Workamping in New Hampshire the EGT & Boost gauges became erratic and eventually they both quit working. However, the engine still had plenty of boost and power. I tried disconnecting the connector and spraying both ends with contact cleaner but no joy. I sent Banks an email in regard to the symptoms and their response was that the wiring harness for the gauges has been compromised somewhere between the Ottomind and the gauges.

Also, there have been two times when I had to use the Bypass Adapter which returns the engine back to "stock" because of temporary problems. The first time was while in California in 2017 when I had an electrical problem with the house battery bank negative cable which caused a power failure to the Ottomind. I didn't realize it at the time what was going on, but when I looked down at the Banks gauges, they were both dead. So, I just used the Bypass adapter to finish our trip. Later after doing some reading and research with the wiring schematics it mentioned that there is a 5-amp fuse somewhere. But when Banks installed the kit, they never told me where they placed this fuse. Well, two years later when inspecting the crack in the exhaust manifold, I discovered a fuse holder laying on top of the rear of the engine near the back of the transmission. I opened it up and VOILA, it had a blown 5-amp fuse which I replaced and the Ottomind came back to life.

The second time was on our trip up to New Hampshire back in 2021. After driving nearly 1400 miles from Florida and four days of traveling, the day we were to arrive at our Workamping jobs, we stopped for a break and some lunch at a rest stop on I-495 in Massachusetts. When we went to leave the rest stop I had very little boost in the engine plus the Banks gauges were dead again. Coasted over to the side of the road and decided this was not the area to diagnose what the problem maybe so I inserted the Banks Power Pack Bypass plug first and it worked. We arrived at our Workamping jobs later that day. During the summer, I started to troubleshoot the problem and found a corroded negative terminal end on the Banks wiring. I replaced both the positive and negative ends of each wire, and the Banks came back to life.

However, as I stated earlier in the post, on the trip back home to Florida the gauges became erratic and eventually quit working BUT the Ottomind was still working fine and still is to this day with the new owner.

When reading other Banks Power Pack owners posts on various forums the average lifespan for the Ottomind has been in the 8–12-year range.

So, my confusion lies with your statement that the EGT gauge quit working. Just having the EGT gauge quit doesn't necessarily mean that the Ottomind quit. Did you really mean to say that the Ottomind completely failed which causes BOTH the EGT & BOOST gauges to quit thereby rendering the Banks Power Pack completely useless?

Richard,

Good to hear from you.  I thought you had the Banks system on you Windsor.  My gauges (EGT and Boost) stopped working just prior to getting to San Diego 3 months ago.  I contacted Banks tech support and told them what happened.  They told me to look for the fuse.  So I finally found it and it was blown.  So I replaced it and soon as I turned on the engine it blew again.  SO, I tried it once more and the same thing happened again.  SO, I was back on the phone with Banks again.   They said if there was no obvious shorts in the wiring the control unit was bad (short on the circuit card) and there is no repair or replacement for it.  I checked the wiring and there were no identifiable shorts or cut wires.  There was no by pass plug given to me when it was installed at the dealer when we bought the coach new.  I took the control box out and had a good friend look at it (he is a electronic expert) and can fix anything.  The inside of the box was completely potted.  So the circuit card inside could not be trouble shot.  Banks said there is no replacement and they didn't have any in stock  They said it has been out of production for 10 years.  So I removed the harness and plugged in all the original connectors in.  I checked the harness for any possible problems and didn't find any.  The system has been on the coach for 18 years and worked great for the whole time and never had any problems with the system.  I have only driven 10 miles (changing camp grounds) since I have removed the complete system, so I really don't have a feel how the coach is going to run yet.  Next week we start heading home so I'll know soon how the coach runs without help.  I still have the whole system and will look further into it when we get home.  Not that it will do any good but I'll have all my tools and supplies to better check it out for any identifiable issues.

Since I didn't have a EGT gauge any more I decided to install a new EGT gauge.  Unfortunately the EGT gauge that was in the Banks system wouldn't work because the sensor went from the exhaust manifold to the control box then to the gauge.  So the gauge was getting the iinput from the control box.  Banks confirmed that.  So I had to buy a new gauge that came with a new sensor.  I bought a digital gauge so there would be no guessing on what the temperature was.  The biggest pain was running the wire from the manifold to the dash.  Got it all done and it works great.

Don

8 hours ago, klcdenver said:

I have no experience with a Banks. I put a Ag Diesel Solution on my ISL400 and very pleased with it. The people there in support or very nice and helpful 

Ken,

I'm going to look at alternatives to the Banks system.  My engine is a 350 ISC engine.  Do you have to plug in a chip or a piece of hardware into the OBD test port?  I have the Silver leaf system plugged into the OBD port now and that works pretty good but it only gives you readings you set up in the system.  It doesn't give you any more HP or Torque.

Don

JD,

Does the chip plug into the OBD port?  I currently have the Silver Leaf plugged into the OBD port by the drivers seat.  The chip is a little pricey.

Don

Tim,

The sensor on the Banks system goes to the control box then out of the box to the gauge.  The box is bad so that sensor doesn't work any more.  The gauge will only work with the control box.  I had to buy a new gauge which comes with a new sensor, then run the sensor wire all the way to the gauge on the dash.  

Don

I had a Banks Power Pac system installed in my 04 Camelot (8.3 Cummins) when we bought it in 04.  I  had the exhaust temp gauge go out on this trip.  I called Banks and they said the power pac system was discontinued 10 years ago and there is no replacement for the system.  I was very disappointed when they told me there is no replacement system.  There is no repair of the control box.  Actually the control box is filled with potting so there is no way to get to the circuit card to try and get someone else to repair it.  Soooo, I had to remove the system.  Now I am back to the original Cummins system.  Less horse power, less torque, less MPG.  Bummer.  This is just info for anyone who has the system.  I wish there was something out there that was comparable.  I have bought a Exhaust gauge and installed it so I can watch my exhaust temp and run by the gauge, especially on grades. 

Thanks for all the info.  I found the switch  at O'reilly's part store for $22 dollars.  It is a MasterPro Switch P/N 2HLS6.  Hopefully it last as long as the last one.  You guys are AWESOME!!!!!

Don Genesse

I have a 2004 Camelot that does not have any lights on my instruments.  I have traced it to the headlight switch.  Removed the switch (what a pain) and the only identifying numbers on the switch are 1503.  Parts store said it converts to SW132.  That is not the same switch.  Anyone have an idea what the part number is or what truck the headlights or tail lights came from? ☹️

Don

I have a 2004 Camelot that does not have any lights on my instruments.  I have traced it to the headlight switch.  Removed the switch (what a pain) and the only identifying numbers on the switch are 1503.  Parts store said it converts to SW132.  That is not the same switch.  Anyone have an idea what the part number is or what truck the headlights or tail lights came from? 

Don

I have searched everywhere but can not find the answer to my question.  Can I replace my water hose with one of the hoses that collapses once the water has been shut off?  There are several manufactures of these hoses and some can be used for potable water.  I could use a 100 foot hose and once it has collapsed I should be able to roll it up on my electric hose real with ease.  I would like to know if it is possible and has anyone already done this?

My coach is a 2004 38 foot Camelot.  I believe the standard water hose reel that Monaco installed in their coaches during that time.

All parts for the refer are gone.  

Gary,

When we bought the coach in 04 the drivers seat had a big cut in it.  The dealer bought a new seat cover to replace the old one.  Spring Steel sent me the passenger seat cover.  Obviously it wouldn't fit the drivers seat so they sent me the drivers seat cover and said to keep the passenger seat cover. So it is an original seat cover from the manufacturer. I have had it in a box since I received it.  I guess I should get it out and really look at it to make sure it is still good.  We recently bought new seats and furniture for the coach so we really don't need it.  I'll check it out and email you back the condition.

I have dismantled my Samsung refer and selling all the parts.  A few parts are already spoken for but the rest will be on display at the rally.  If you have any special requests you can email me to see if I still have what you are looking for.  Sometimes it's nice to have a spare part just in case.  Thanks.

Don Genesse

I have a brand new seat cover (leather) for a flex steel passenger seat.  The seat is a Camelot (04) vintage.  I will be at the rally this month at Lazy Days.  Ask for Don Genesse.  Not sure what it is worth but will take a reasonable offer. 

Mark,

Where did you get the door lock for your refer?

Don

Has anyone put a LG refer in their rig and run it with the MSW inverter?

Don