wamcneil

Call the History Channel show “Found”! They’ll figure it out and put you on TV. 

https://www.history.com/shows/found

ps- Please don’t attempt to watch the show. I tried it and that’s 30 min of my life wasted that I’ll never get back. Ok my gosh. About 2… maybe 2-1/2 minutes of interesting material drug out into a 30 min episode 

the keypad works by grounding various wires on the back of the keypad. When you key 555, it connects the Lock wire to ground. You can test the keypad by jumpering its Lock wire to ground. If the doors lock, then it means that the keypad is your problem.

It could be relays or wiring, but I think it's more likely that the keypad is the issue. When you hit 555 it sends one Lock signal to TWO relays. Since neither of your relays are firing, I think it's likely the Lock signal isn't being sent.

Congratulations! I’m glad you’ve got it figured out. 
Could you post a summary of the problem, with effected models?

Paul, I’m sure you’re tired of hearing it by now, but thanks for your work and investment engineering that board replacement. 
Im not a customer yet, but I sleep a little better knowing that I won’t need to replace the entire thing when mine fail. 
Walter

On 3/3/2023 at 3:32 PM, Georgia Mike said:

Thanks for all the replies. Rocket man asked about the temperature sensor so I went and looked for one but found nothing attached to the batteries. After some investigating I found this wire laying on the bottom of the slide out tray for the batteries. All three ports on the Magnum have phone cords plugged in the yellow one is for the battery temperature sensor so there is a wire leaving there but im not sure what this is. I cut it open and there is two very small gauge wires in the heat shrink that was put on the end. So could this be the temperature sensor put this way from the factory? It looks like it has been here a long time. Also I have all lead acid batteries.

 

Disconnect the temp sensor phone plug and see what that does to your absorption voltage. 
Unless you have a relatively new magnum and are using the lithium settings, there’s no way to turn off the temperature compensation other than unplugging the sensor. If the sensor is unplugging the magnum assumes constant 70deg F and temperature compensation is effectively disabled. 
Cheers

Walter

What did you jumper to get the front door to lock? Unless you grounded the white/black wire at the essex keypad, you can't rule out essex failure.

Grounding the Lock wire on the essex keypad should fire the locking relays. And grounding the Unlock wire on the essex should fire the unlock relays.

Oh, wait. Nevermind. You said the essex WILL lock the bay dooors though. So the probelm isn't the essex. 

I'm not familiar with Imperial, but we've got this in the downloads (p34):

The essex keypad is totally separate from the wirless module. While you're in there, get a keyless entry system to replace the original. The one Essex sells along with their keypads as an "add-on" is actually a separate and generic 3rd party keyless that's available on Amazon (Avital 2101L) 

Essex 1603 Keypad and Wireless Replacement - iRV2 Forums

20 hours ago, Viper04 said:

I lucked out because my coach has doors on the wall for storage of toilet paper on the bottom and towels and hand towels above it. Both cubbies 

are compartments that  slide into the wall and are held in with wood screws. Zip out the screws and the compartments slide out as a whole unit. Good access not perfect but I think I can get to everything to replace the pipes needed 

 

Tim

Have fun fixing that... It's a hard area to work in...

The fitting at the end of my flex pipe had come loose from the cabinet and worked the black ABS pipe back and forth till it broke at the elbow at the back of the cabinets. ABS drain pipe isn't readily available in TX but Home Depot had PVC transition glue, so I replaced most of the drain pipe at the back of the cabinetry with PVC and tied it into the black ABS where it was impractical to install new PVC. 

Then anchored the end of the new PVC to the cabinet so it doesn't move around when the flex pipe pushes and pulls on the fitting.

Cheers, Walter

1 hour ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

... I assume that if I choose to jumper it, then the only impact will be that the switch no longer functions. 

Pretty much... But you'll also save the power that it takes to keep your relay(s) closed. My system had one latching relay and one continuous relay. I found that the one continuous relay drew 750ma.

If you're plugged into shore power all the time that doesn't matter. But if boondocking and counting energy consumption, that 18 amp-hours is significant.

Cheers,

Walter

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

...Unless I miss my guess, when you kill the Salesman's Switch, you also kill the HVAC system as one of the fuses provides 12 VDC to the HVAC Control Modules, so your HVAC will no come on....

 

That's the way mine is. And until I upgraded the heat pumps and moved to CCC2 thermostat I actually liked the salesman switch (just a bit more than NOT having a salesman switch).

But the CCC2 has a clock and a crude scheduling function. And interrupting the 12v power means I have to reset the clock on the thermostat. 😠

4 hours ago, beemerman said:

Thanks for posting this wiring diagram.  I have no wiring diagrams in my coach information and this could come in very handy.  I'm going to print this out and add it to my book.

Check the Monacoers download section. There's a wiring diagram for 2003 dyn/sig/exec.

15 hours ago, Kjungles said:

I meant left fuse panel….sorry and I guess it does. I jumped it and everything came on and also put power to the switch but got nothing so heading to Napa to get one and will put in tomorrow morning (out of daylight) 🤞

Your top solenoid powers the domestic fuse panel in the bedroom. Mine is inside the cabinetry above the washer/dryer in the bedroom. 

Your bottom solenoid powers the house fuse panel in the forward electrical bay. If there's no power on the output side of your lower solenoid, that is definitely why there's no power going to your domestic fuses in the front electrical bay.

That sounds like your problem. 
BTW, if you have replaced your halogen ceiling heaters with efficient LED lights, IMO there is no need for two solenoids. 
Power from the top latching solenoid triggers the lower non-latching solenoid. 
The top solenoid is rated for like 60a.  I added up all the non-inverter house loads I could figure and came up with less than 60a. 
The halogen ceiling lights can draw up to something like 80a if you turned them all on at once. So after you eliminate that huge load, you can remove the lower solenoid altogether and simply move its output cable up to the top solenoid. 
That’s what I did 2years ago when my solenoid failed. 

one of the two klixon brakers on the bottom left. Probably the 2nd from left. (the other two are jumpered in parallel for the inverter).

Each one feeds one of the solenoids on the right side (salesman switch solenoids).

Check for voltage on the bottom output terminal of each breaker.

Then check for voltage on the output of each of those solenoids on the right.

Yours should look like this. In the upper right side of the diagram, you'll see the high current box that's on the right side of the engine compartment. Power goes through the circuit breakers to the salesman solenoids, and then up to the electrical bay in the front. 

As others stated, one of the salesman switch solenoids could have failed or one of the circuit breakers that feeds them.

I pulled out mine and cut it down substantially.
The center cabinet should come out pretty easily. Screws into the side cabinets and into the ceiling. Then you can put it on a bench and decide how to cut it. Mine was assembled with mainly pocket screws. So I was able to take it apart and cut down various pieces, and reassemble without having to mess with staining and refinishing. 

I'm astonished that some of the emissions technologies are practical enough to put into production. DPF for example. Oh my gosh; the engineering and development resources that must have been required to build enough know-how to put the first practical DPF into production.

I'm amazed that anybody had enough audacity to try and engineer such a counter-intuitive solution in the first place.

I've got an old grand cherokee with a mercedes diesel in it. Somehow the DPF is still viable after 160k mi.

From another article: “At Cummins, the fuel-agnostic concept refers specifically to low-carbon and zero-carbon fuels: hydrogen, natural gas, propane, clean diesel, and so on. In a fuel-agnostic engine family, the siblings are all essentially identical in their lower ends—from the head gasket down.”

Yeah, mine had two diode battery isolators (one for the alternator and one for the house charger). So I’m not sure why they needed to also have a dual bank solar controller.  

Here’s how I mounted my four panels. And two more have been sitting in the garage for quite some time waiting for me to get around to it…

Personally I would retire the old controller. In theory it might support 540watts, but if your controller is above the entry door like mine was, the length of undersized wiring between the roof and the batteries is absurd. I never attempted to measure it, but I bet you’d have a big voltage drop at 45a. Plus, mppt will allow you to wire the panels series a downsize the wires (at least between the panels and charge controller). 
I ran new cables down the fridge vent into the basement, and put the new controller there under the fridge opposite the transfer switch.
Conventional wisdom says run solar directly to the batteries, but I ran cables forward to the inverter bay and charge batteries through the 4/0 cables already in place. 
If you feel the need to have a separate panel for the chassis batteries, you could use the old control and wiring. Personally I think it’s a lot cleaner to use a simple dc/dc converter for this purpose. I put mine in the high current box where the original lippert maintainers were mounted. IMO a sophisticated charger is not needed for this purpose. All you really need to do is trickle charge the chassis batteries. 
Cheers

Walter

Yep. The Essex has its own Green dome light output wire. It's only 5-sec though, so probably need some kind of time delay relay to keep the entry light on longer.

That would be a big improvement. I really like the entry light coming on with my fob, but we generally use the keypad for coming and going. 

If you want to get back to your 7 key for the bay doors, just disconnect the Brown wire and connect the Pink wire instead.

9-vs-7 is just a matter of which ‘output’ wire on the back of the Essex is used to trigger the bay doors. 
I don’t remember if the Essex keypad has its own ’dome light’ output wire, but if it does, triggering the entry light with a relay would probably be the easiest solution.
On my dynasty there is no provision for entry light with the Essex keypad. But there is an existing trigger wire for the entry light under the dash that is used with the optional viper alarm. It’s not used with the normal keyfob, but it’s pre wired for the alarm option.
When I replaced the keyfob unit, I was able to connect this to the wireless receiver’s ‘dome light‘ output so my keyfob unlock also turns on the entry light. 

Cheers

Walter

Sure, 4/0 would certainly be “better” ,  but for the short battery interconnects it’s overkill. Monaco used 4/0 because the cable runs are very long, not because we need the full 445a capacity of 4/0.

The interconnects are very short and only carry 1/2 the total current anyway. So they contribute only a tiny portion of the total circuit resistance. 
1/0 is rated for 285a and is more than enough for what you’re doing. Use 2/0 if it makes you feel better. 
I’d probably make up the cables from 4/0 rather than buying more suitable materials if that’s all I had on hand, but it’s sure stiff and hard to work with. 
Cheers

Walter

Before you start the work, watch a YouTube video on changing the Chevy switch. There’s a button on the switch housing to release the shaft that’s not super intuitive. And you’re working behind the dash without clear sight. 
Cheers

Walter

The two models are the same internally. Choose whichever one looks nicer to you.
If you like the one that’s bigger and recessed, go for it. You’ll need to cut the hole bigger. No big deal. 
If you want it flat and looking almost identical to original, then get that one. You’ll need to trim the back of it so it can sit flush on the original aluminum bezel. No big deal. 
Vito reported that they have a P/N variant that has a plug pre installed that was plug-n-play for his rig. My rig had a different plug and would not have been plug n play. Otherwise they both come with a bunch of wires to splice. As I recall, the new wires are the same color as the old ones so it’s pretty easy. 
There are at least two good write ups on IRV describing the keypad and also the separate wireless module
Cheers

Walter