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pwhittle

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Posts posted by pwhittle

  1. I have some of the 10 LED ones in my closets. I have one under the sink and two (one on each level) under the cooktop.
     

    Less usage than the front door, but they last for months before I need to recharge them.

    They are not super bright, but great for the closet.  I may try moving one to the entry way, shamelessly stealing your fine idea.

    Paul

  2. I cleaned my Big Boy once, and when it needed it a second time, I replaced it (and the BIRD circuitry) with a Blue Sea ML-ACR. A much better solution that costs less than a Big Boy Relay. 
     

    This is a simple device that does one thing: connects or disconnects the house and chassis batteries.

     

    The features I like about it are

    - will charge both sets of batteries from the alternator or output from the inverter/charger

    - auto mode as well as manual off and manual combine override via the remote switch or on the relay itself

    - LED status indicator on the remote switch that replaces the Battery Boost switch in the dash/side panel

    - takes no current to hold it in either position, so does not run hot

    - has high current ratings

    - sealed from the elements

    - senses charging on either bank of batteries to combine in Auto mode

    I had previously replaced the diode based isolator and battery boost relay with the ML-ACR on our 1994 Signature and it operated well.

    I have helped Vanwill replace the same setup on his 2000 Dynasty and another friend on his 2002 Signature.

    In those cases the ML-ACR replaces the isolator, the Battery Boost Relay, and the Lambert style or Trik-l-Amp or Trik-l-Start solution to keep both sets of batteries charged.

    For our coach the ML-ACR replaces the Big Boy relay and renders the circuitry that drives the Big Boy unnecessary.

    Mechanically the ML-ACR is a similar size as the Big Boy relay and we used 1/8”x3/4” copper bar to connect the ML-ACR to the existing wiring.

    We also ran a pair of wires from the RRB to the dash for the remote switch. We could have run one wire and reused the existing wire from the Batt Boost switch.

    The switch also needs fused power and ground which we picked up from the FRB.

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    • Thanks 1
  3. Hi George,

    I am still in the development phase, and am on the third version. It is a fresh design that is plug compatible.

    The first was just switches and some LED's driven from the limit switches.

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    The second used relay boards, but ended up pretty large and had to be installed outside the porcelain. It got us through a 10 day trip though.

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    This third one is getting closer. I made it the same size as the original. It is functional, and I am fine-tuning the software.

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    It is not practical to make more this way as it just takes too much time. The next step, if there is interest, is to design a custom PCB to significantly reduce the effort to produce. I am looking into that process.

    Paul

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  4. It is a time consuming manual process to assemble it, but it is working well.

    Dick, i’ll be at the Gathering.

    Here is an intermediate picture.from the assembly process. Not an economical process from a time perspective, but it has been an interesting project.

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    I am looking to buy a mechanism from a Magnum Opus toilet if anyone has removed one from their motorhome.

    Paul

  5. i find it useful to see where other members are located. I wanted to put my city and state in my profile for others to see, but it rejected that without a complete address, which I would rather not share publicly.

    Is that a forum option, and would others find it useful too?

    PS I like the new forum much more than the Yahoo groups, I expect to participate a lot more now.

    Paul

     

     

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