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pwhittle

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Everything posted by pwhittle

  1. The IC’s are still available. I expect the regulator is too. Should be a fairly straightforward return on that board. paul
  2. Right. I saw the picture of the switches. Perhaps an early 2005 Signature, but not something I have seen before. @rschley can you confirm your year/model for us? It makes a big difference on the advice we would offer. Paul
  3. That is the first 2005 Signature I have seen without the Intellitec Multiplex. The Executives and Dynasty’s also got Intellitec from 2006 onwards. Paul
  4. No issues viewing HEIC images on my iPhone or my Windows 11 laptop. Have you downloaded any current CODEC’s. This is similar to loading security updates, but for viewing images as new format emerge. Paul
  5. I am here in 20. Scotty and Deb Hutto, Van Williams and Pat, Shaun Murphy, Tom and Paula Moore, Ted and Stacey Zimmer. Hopefully we can catch up! Paul
  6. Not the same year, but on our 2005 Signature, the air horn valve is on the passenger side of the generator bay. Paul
  7. I am a big fan of the ML-ACR. We bought our 2005 Signature seven years ago now, and I had to clean the Big Boy to make it work properly. When it failed again two years later, I switched to the ML-ACR, and have not had any issue since 2019. i did run some wires to the front for the switch, but have since found the Spare Harness that Monaco installed, so it could have been a simpler install. I have also installed one on our 1994 Signature, and have also helped install them on three other coaches. Intellitec makes many great products. I do not consider the BigBoy and the associated control board their best work. Paul
  8. No plans to head as far west as TX, but will be back in New Orleans and up to Chicago in the next couple of months. Paul
  9. Hi All, I will be at the Cajun RV Rally April 8-14 if anyone would like their Intellitec system backed up. There is no charge for this. Thanks! Paul
  10. I will be at the Cajun RV Rally. I am happy to backup any one’s Intellitec system while there. Paul
  11. Lifeline tech support recommended equalizing their AGM’s to me. Paul
  12. @Frank McElroy is the best with troubleshooting boards. I am more of a parts swapper. That relay is not too hard to replace with the right tools, but I would want to see what load that relay controls and consider adding an external relay to reduce the load on the board as well. My cruise on/off output went out on mine. That is one of the small black relays. I replaced it and it did not fix the issue, so I wired a fused output around the relay and my cruise is always enabled. Works for me. 😀
  13. @Paul J A Tim does a great job at RVCams, but I don’t think they offer a plug and play replacement for the Velvac Mirror mounted Intec cameras. Please share a product link if there is one. Paul
  14. Hi Richard, I cut the switch apart so it is just down to the pins, then desolder them one at a time. It helps to have a good solder/desolder station. Paul
  15. Good links Bruce! I have bought replacement joysticks from Mouser before and Digikey did not have any at the time. Mouser's stock was getting low, but it looks like there has been more received, so that is good news. They can be a bit of a chore to remove, depending on what equipment/skills you have, but fairly straightforward. Richard, I had the same symptoms and fixed mine by soldering in a new joystick. Paul
  16. Hi Robert, I have a few. I’ll Pm you my phone number. Paul
  17. I worked on another keypad today where the programming for one key position was not what it was supposed to be. It is easy to fix once diagnosed, but something for us to keep in mind when troubleshooting. Paul
  18. Mike sent me his keypad. I read the program off it and saved it for later. Then I programmed in my test switch panel config and tested each switch. No Problem Found. I reviewed the original program, and the key for Aquahot 110V was programmed to send the wrong code compared to the wiring diagrams. I have reprogrammed the switch to send the correct code to the CPU, and it is on its way back to Mike. I also prgramssed a spare switch on the panel for the same function, so Mike has a backup key if that same one loses the correct code. I have not seen this issue before, but expect this will fix it. Paul
  19. To be clear, when I repair the gauges, I remove and re-install the bezel. You can see this has happened from the rear, but not when it is installed. I 3D printed a mount to protect the bezel. I posted the print on Monacoers.org for the DIY people with access to a 3D printer. Paul
  20. The gauges are just diary chained together. On mine one wire from another gauge or the cluster into C, then one from D to E, then one wire from F to G. H remains open. Whichever way the cables fit/route easiest. Paul
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