pwhittle

That listing references OE Part number 3408345, which shows up on The Cummins site. That part number is available from various sources, including Cummins, Amazon, and eBay for prices ranging from under $20 to $45 from Cummins. Paul

You are a betteR man than me! I struggled to get the chain installed with the mechanism on my bench. Did your chain from HWH have a bend in it or lay flat? Paul

Glad to get your Opus running again! Life is a happier place with a working toilet. Paul

Hi Daryl, Not that I am aware of, but I would call Valvec and talk to them. I suspect there is a connection in the arm as well as in the generator bay behind the mirror. Paul

Hi Mike, I am in Woodstock, GA. Bring your coach up one day, and we will back it up for you. Im currently down at the Gathering in Seffner, but I’ll be home this week. My cell phone is in my profile. Paul

Hi Doug, PM with my phone number sent! Paul

Hi Patrick, A new control board is in its way to Russell! Paul

And from the lead!

I print pretty much everything in ABS now. Longest print I have done is 35 hrs. It was for a stubby nozzle for an Milwaukee M18 blower. Great for blowing off the motorhome or a car after washing it. The Opus controller boards take about 8 hours each. Ignore the hairspray. Haven’t used that since I started using PEI print beds. I have started printing in two colors, starting with the Aladdin joystick faceplate. I also printed a couple of cup holders to hold my 20 oz Yeti next to the dash when driving. I don’t have a picture of it right now.

I'll start new thread to discuss 3D Printing so we do not derail this one.

I recommend that you do extensive research outside this forum as there are many 3D printers available at many price points with different capabilities. I bought a 3D printer to print the cases for the Magnum/Sealand/Dometic Opus replacement controller. I chose the Creality Ender 3 as it was cheap and there was a lot of community support for it. The Ender 3 is known as a 3D printer that you need to spend time on to be able to print well. I did spend a lot of time getting to the point where I can print whatever I want, and it was a very steep learning curve.

Yes. The water runs on top of the slide, then down onto the floor. Paul

Most connectors on Monaco’s are TE/AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors. Post a picture of it and we can try to identify the part number. Paul

Mouser shows the connector in stock https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-480704-0?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsyYdr3R27aVxI08ncWuDZS

Aren’t there replacement control boards available? Paul

One reason I am using them is so the tire company can come to my house and fit new tires. They can’t balance on site, so the Centramatics take care of the balance. Paul

@Mocephus ordered and installed the same part numbers Centramatics gave me. I ordered them from Florida Shores Truck Center. About $100 less than Centramatics and free shipping. I’ll update the thread when we fit them. Paul

I also called Centramatic (800-523-8473 - Mike Hagar). His recommendation was 700-720 for the Steers and 600-640 for the Drive and Tag.

Getting ready to order a set of Centramatics for our 2005 Signature. Does anyone have the model numbers for all 3 axles? Thanks Paul

Hi All, Sorry for not completing this. My job has been keeping me very busy and I have just not had enough time to complete this project to be ready to sell the Intellitec programmers with the necessary instructions and support to make it easy to do yourself. We are planning to be at the Gathering in February 2022, and will be available to make backups of your Intellitec CPU, which is the most important thing to have done. Backing up the keypads takes a lot longer and the keypads are fairly easy to program from scratch, unlike the main CPU which could take a lot of time to recreate. I will be available to do that too, but it will take more time. Anyone that has used me to create the backup will also get free programming in the future if you need it for a CPU or a keypad. Paul

I did not attach any of the isolator inputs. On boats this is often used to protect the electronics when cranking the engine. There are not as many sensitive electronics on a motorhome Paul

It was not as significant improvement as our 1994 Sig - non Tag, but I could sense an improvement. Paul

Dick, I have a front Watts Link on an S-10 chassis. Paul

Call Paul Maddox from HWH ((602) 549-3638) with the part numbers. He can supply the correct replacement chains. He is in AZ. I was not able to replace the chain in place, but others have. I even struggled to get the chain installed with the X-Slide on the bench and had to drill some of the holes for the 1/4” bolts that replaced the pins oversize. Paul

There are a couple different models. On one model, the mechanism is attached to the porcelain and comes away from the floor in one piece. The mechanism is attached to the porcelain with J bolts which are torqued to 20-25 INCH lbs. I use a deep socket on a 3/8” drive extension and tighten it by hand (no ratchet). It is easy to break the porcelain if you torque them down too hard. I have found that it pays to make sure the mechanism is aligned with the porcelain and that the end of the motor drive lines up with the hole in the porcelain in the left side, if you have one. When ours was out, I ordered a new flapper, shaft, and seal, but I put it back before they arrived. I took care to clean it, align it and torque it down evenly. I also applied plumbers grease to the seal. It holds water for weeks with the old seal, The other model has the mechanism screwed to the floor, then the porcelain mounts over it. I have a mechanism, but have never seen the porcelain. I would expect that the alignment is very important for this model too. The manual is in the downloads section This looks close and should prove helpful. https://www.seabreeze-industries.com.au/files/ResourcePDF/Vacuflush_Seals_and_Ball_Replacement.pdf Paul