pwhittle

Your SmartWheel controller looks to be #3 in the lower left of the FRB. To identify the relay, take a picture of the relay itself. The writing on it will include the manufacturer and the model. Paul

I have posted an update in the Vendor section. We will shortly be shipping Version 2.0 of the controller!

Our failed toilet controller has taken me on a journey I would never have expected! Our original model controller has helped over 50 RV Owners to keep their Magnum Sealand Opus in operation. When I started this project by making one to replace our failed controller I had no idea that it would be of use to so many people. There continues to be demand for these controllers so I have developed Version 2.0 of the controller. I have been able to reduce the depth of the controller by incorporating a smaller display and I now use flexible hooks to mount it over the edge of the back of the toilet to address some installation issues when there is a cabinet very close to the top of the back of the toilet. The enclosure is now made of ABS to be more tolerant of extreme temperatures and liquids. The majority of the components are now surface mount. The new design is also compatible with 24V systems that are often installed on boats. (I am hoping to find the first customer with a 24V system so that I can verify correct operation with them) The controller still has the same plug-compatible connectors and is available with extension cables, a screwdriver to remove the security screws on the connectors, and replacement flapper limit switches are also available if yours have failed and you need to replace yours. On the limit switches, I have found that the new controller has fixed many users' issues with limit switches. The ability to exercise the flapper and make sure it is clean around the flapper has brought toilets back to life without having to remove the toilet and replace the switches. We continue to offer these with a 30 day money back guarantee, a 12 month warranty, and support. Thanks for the support from everyone here!

Hi Clayton, Ours is a little slow to respond too but has always worked after a couple seconds.. I have not dug in to see why, but will do and let you know what I find. Paul

Yes, I am sure they can. I am not sure it is economical to do it that way rather than just buy them from Atwood though unless you are doing it for yourself. Paul

Hi Doug, Yes. That is available. I can find out a price if you are interested. Paul

The cups on arms with a center hub is an awkward shape to 3D print without supports. I expect to we could come up with a multi-piece design that would be easier to print. I have a spare I can try to model it off. now that I liked, there are many designs to use as inspiration here. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Anemometer&type=things&sort=relevant Paul

Hi Jim, If you already have backups, I can program/reprogram keypads, I’ll PM you my direct contact info. Paul

Thanks for the expressions of interest. I placed my initial order with Intellitec, so we should be able to get started with the first couple of users soon. I will be looking for user feedback from the first users to improve the instructions for the rest of the users. More info as I get the Intellitec pieces and can commit to a shipping date to users. Paul

It is possible to have the Intellitec 50A EMS act as the PMC Master, or add a separate PMC Master and still support some output modules and keypads. It would be fairly straightforward to recreate/update keypads in this configuration, and no main CPU backup is required. Paul

Hi William, I don’t think so. The Intellitec PMC Multiplex system was first introduced in the 2005 Signature, then other models in later years. Paul

Yes. I am running this on Windows 10 64-bit. For a different project I wanted to resurrect an old parallel port EPROM programmer. I screwed around, bought a new PCI LPT port card, bought a video card for an old PC, bought an adapter for that card, and finally bought another old PC before I got it to run using a DOS boot from USB. Nothing’s easy. Paul I would almost buy a coach with a failed Kongsberg to bring it back to life, but I would need a working one to work out what it does as I have not found any documentation on it. More complicated than a toilet controller though. I have a couple other projects queued up to help us keep our old rigs going too! Paul

Hi All, I see a lot of people on this and other forums that are not having an easy time getting support for their Intellitec questions and issues. Along with others on this forum, I have gained a pretty good understanding of how the Intellitec system works on our 2005 Monaco Signature and how to backup and restore the main CPU and the keypads. I reached out to Intellitec about becoming an official Intellitec reseller, and they welcomed me! I can now order direct from Intellitec for any Intellitec parts that you may need. One of the important things that all owners with Intellitec Multiplex systems should do is to make a backup of their main CPU as well as each of their keypads. If the main CPU or a keypad develops a fault, you want to have the data to program a replacement. If you do not, it becomes significantly more difficult, time consuming, and costly. I am in the process of assembling kits that will contain the Intellitec programming adapter that works for the CPU and the keypads, a USB drive with the necessary software and to store your backups on, an instruction guide on how to make the backups, some tools to make getting the keypad covers off easier, and a way to contact me for questions and support. I do not have final pricing yet, but it is expected to be in the $400-$500 price range for the complete kit. I will also be able to do this as a service for you if we are in the same location without buying the kit. Let me know if this is of interest to you and I can include you in the first set of kits to go out. Paul Whittle

Hopefully @vito.a will be along shortly to provide guidance. Paul

The relays in the Smartwheel are listed as 25A. The heat I have seen on others coaches is at the connectors. Perhaps a bad crimp or connection. Paul

Ray, Mine is like yours too. Paul

Dennis, The gauges are driven from the Faria Beede Gateway. The gauges in the dash run off a Faria Beede CANbus and interpret the data that the gateway and the main panel in the dash tell it to display based on what each gauge is programmed to display. I have a flaky front air pressure gauge as well as the fuel gauge in the tachometer. They do not always start up normally. You can tell because the light in the gauge does not come on and the needle does not move. Sometimes you can hear them trying to start up. It seems more prone to error in colder weather. The HWH system has two low pressure gauges in each six pack. They tell the HWH system when to stop dumping and when there is enough air in the system for travel mode. If they fail closed, the system thinks there is no air so will not dump and will not stay in travel mode. if this happens, you can unplug the sensor to make it think there is enough air. Paul

Hi Rick, I have not seen a duty cycle rating in the BOYO VTK230HD speciations. Is that the BOYO camera you are using? Mine are powered all the time, at least all the time the Aladdin is on. So far I have not had an issue, but I will check with the manufacturer. Paul

I have a couple cameras to try for my rear camera replacement. One is a BOYO and one is a Voyager. Both have microphones and are similar specs and should both be better than the original Sony camera. I plan to make adapter cables that will plug into the existing cables. The BOYO uses a (different) standard connector. The Voyager is proprietary so I am deciding between spending the extra $25-$30 on a Voyager adapter cable, or just cut it off and attach the correct connector. Still a few weeks or so out on finishing mine. Paul

Hi Dennis, The display from the Aladdin does not have to go to the radio. It is just a composite video signal fed over an RCA connector. I added a separate 10” monitor and it works great. I have also decommissioned the standard Sony monitor, but that required a replacement 8-8.2V power supply for the rear Sony camera. I am sure we can specify what you need. PM me if you would like a hand. Paul

Our 2005 Signature has the grey and black tanks next to each other, with the fresh water tank below them. Paul

Hi Chad, Try a different monitor to isolate the issue to the monitor or something else. An monitor that has a yellow RVA video input will do. If it is not the monitor, then there are other things to check: Cameras, cables, connectors, video switcher. Paul

They were expensive (and not very good) when I turned them out of aluminum on my tabletop lathe, but the next week we 3D printed some which @Scotty Huttois using now. Not so expensive to duplicate now. 😀 Paul

Replaced the door bell mechanism with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BW9TX6 Replaced the button with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTOA Button lights up and doorbell works now. Paul

Head units have come a long way and have improved a lot. I doubt the Panasonic does much more with it than support for a Video In. Paul